CaMpylobacter Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 its never gonna affect you on a hill though, and the taking off thing is all jsut what you're used to on teh specific vehicle changing. if it's gonna affect you on the hill then why doesn't it take half a minute for your engine to come to rest when you switch the key off at idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 On 3/11/2018 at 00:41, Hemi said: Fitted chromally (sp?) flywheel to the 910 when the ca18det was in it , and it was great, but i didnt grab the super light one but was way,WAY lighter then factory and the only thing i noticed is you needed more pedal to take off because it would stall easier, thats it. This. It only affects the engine by decreasing inertia, thus meaning that taking off requires a bit more jandal. That's it. The incline speed/momentum loss effect is a consequence of this but is only really noticeable (bareley) on predominantly smaller displacement engines with fewer cylinders. The paranoia of losing the ability to power up inclines is so very close to fiction, but is just on the fact side of the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 It won't be any issue for the LD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 will depend how grabby the clutch is too. i.e. it makes it trickier with an on/off puk clutch but with a full face that that's less grabby you probably wont notice it much as you have more time to react with the clutch or throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 It's just going to get a good.quality new replacement rfb debt one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 What's the boost limit a 2lt can handle before it pops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 @Firetruck was running 20-25 depending on turbo and how cold it was? Went hard as fuck with the CT26. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 At one point I had my 3L wound up to 30, but the fuel pump was already topped out so there wasn't really any gain, just unnecessary stress so I backed it to 25 and it was happy as anything. No idea when they pop, I never managed to do it. A CT20 will pop above 20psi, they're also inefficient little buggers so you'll definitely want a better turbo if you plan on pushing it over about 15 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Also, big radiator, big exhaust and big intercooler are key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 58 minutes ago, Firetruck said: At one point I had my 3L wound up to 30, but the fuel pump was already topped out so there wasn't really any gain, just unnecessary stress so I backed it to 25 and it was happy as anything. No idea when they pop, I never managed to do it. A CT20 will pop above 20psi, they're also inefficient little buggers so you'll definitely want a better turbo if you plan on pushing it over about 15 or so. standard internals and pump ?? thinking about more mojo for the 1HZ in my Cruiser, and unsure which way to head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 A hx30 or he221 would work well, ill be running a he221 with a 5.5cm housing on a 3.9l diesel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 2 hours ago, Giant said: What's the boost limit a 2lt can handle before it pops Cant remember how much boost it made but a mate of mine had a 2l non turbo engine in his hilux. Made a custom manifold, good turbo, no wastegate, intercooler etc... ended up running high 14sec 1/4s which I thought was good given how gutless it was to start with. It broke a gudgeon pin after a little while, the 2lt ones are bigger, it got a set of those and a quick rebuild and it was good again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 1 hour ago, 00quattro00 said: A hx30 or he221 would work well, ill be running a he221 with a 5.5cm housing on a 3.9l diesel 25 minutes ago, cletus said: Cant remember how much boost it made but a mate of mine had a 2l non turbo engine in his hilux. Made a custom manifold, good turbo, no wastegate, intercooler etc... ended up running high 14sec 1/4s which I thought was good given how gutless it was to start with. It broke a gudgeon pin after a little while, the 2lt ones are bigger, it got a set of those and a quick rebuild and it was good again are these examples with factory NA diesil pumps ?? any gains in camshaft work on a lazy diesel ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Mines a turbo engine, my pump will only deliver enough fuel for about 250hp and 600nm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Internet diagnosis time people! Rd28t stuttering/stumbling under boost. Left Wellington last night and all was fine and dandy, but after a while it started surging (power would cut in and out, felt like driving into a really gusty headwind) when trying to accelerate at any decent rate. Got worse over time. I topped up with diesel from half a tank along the way and I can’t be sure but I think it was not long after that that I first noticed it, but may be a coincidence. initially I could drive around it by keeping the boost down and not giving it full beans, but by the time I arrived at my destination (300km), it was stumbling just keeping a stable speed. any ideas on where to start? I plan on checking the fuel filter (not sure what to check for haha), and obvious things first (leaks etc). Was also thinking perhaps a leaking/torn boost android diaphragm? As it feels Iike when it’s Making boost the fuelling is all out of whack. oh and it starts as it’s always starts (I.e. fine) and will rev out cleanly with no load. cheer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Check your your fuel lines and filter and make sure they're not pulling in any air. I've done a few diesels with those symptoms, one was a shitty fuel hose, one was a split filter housing, one was an incorrectly installed filter, all allowing air to be pulled into the fuel lines and causing weird misfires. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Roger that. Check as in visual inspection or is there an actual way to check if there is air getting in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 I'd hook some clear pipe to the pump return and see if there's bubbles. After that it's a process of elimination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Good thinking, shall do that. Whipped the top of the boost aneroid off to check the diaphragm, no leaks but the pin was pretty gunked up so have it a clean (and put it back in the same place). Doesn’t appear to have changed anything so can cross that off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Fuel blockage, usually collects at joins, banjo bolts/fittings. Take pipe off at filter and check. Could also be at pickup, but hard to check that, could blow down the line back to tank. (Don't forget to re-prime after) Actually, check the banjo at the pump first, fuel line from filter to pump. They usually have a filter in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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