Mop Head Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Now heres a real rig. Diesel Royal Enfield 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Except too spendy and probably half decently engineered. I want a Tumeke spec broken Chinese scoot with badly attached diesel chugger (+t?) 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 8 hours ago, Seedy Al said: I know they were doing one for a 1kz but were struggling to get shims big enough to accommodate. So thats something to consider if its shim style valves Would be for my td27t.(push rod) want to see how far I can push the little bastard before it pops Also are td27 and td42 valves the same tension and size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 come up with a grind and do it. plenty of dudes have done td42s and shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 What's the go with replacing injectors, worth getting a refurbished (and slightly improved apparently) set over cheap new ones? There's a place in Kiapoi that do "upgraded refurbished injectors" for what seems like a decent price. Sitting at the lights the other day I got the familiar rough idle back, but instead of a bit of excessive black smoke it was accompanied by extreme amounts of white smoke and a strong raw diesel smell, any touch on the throttle stopped it and after a few minutes on the motorway it stopped again. Thinking I've got a sticky/dirty injector (s). 1kzte, not using coolant, runs well most of the time, fuel consumption has been getting worse recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 This may or may not be applicable/helpful for your model van. I once looked at (I think) an import 1KZ Prado that'd run a bit hairy at idle, and behaved kinda like over fueling at idle only. Open the throttle, would make power, boost, no smoke, great! Throttle back to 0% and the smoke would start, rough idle etc. Intermittent of course. To me it had to be either not enough air or too much fuel, I got all confused and spent a long time looking for a fuelling issue. Turns out on this spec of 1KZ, the throttle body is meant to be 100% closed at 0% idle, with a bypass throttle body that is vacuum actuated open and closed to give manifold vacuum and make EGR etc work. Let go of the throttle, bypass butterfly gets turned shut, when engine gets down to idle, its meant to open up. Carbon build up in manifold was making it stick shut sometimes and choke out the intake at idle but not stall it somehow. It was a while ago, and I'm probably not remembering things right, and this might not even be right for your 1KZ but maybe get some pics of your intake if you can? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Giant said: Would be for my td27t.(push rod) want to see how far I can push the little bastard before it pops Also are td27 and td42 valves the same tension and size? I drove a Terrano once that went surprisingly well. The owner had ported the head as well as usual exhaust and more boost etc He said the factory exhaust port is quite restrictive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 1 hour ago, cletus said: I drove a Terrano once that went surprisingly well. The owner had ported the head as well as usual exhaust and more boost etc He said the factory exhaust port is quite restrictive The dump pipe is also pretty bad. It's a right angle bend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 @johnnyfive that actually makes a lot of sense, there is a few vacuum actuators etc on the intake and throttle body etc, will take some pics in the morning. I've been meaning to try out running a can of diesel intake/egr cleaner through it for a while, would pull the intake but I can't afford to have the van off the road long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Try some intake cleaner tbh. Worst that can happen is epic smoke screen good times and you end up pulling injectors Getting them upgraded and disconnecting the wastegate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 4 hours ago, Raizer said: What's the go with replacing injectors, worth getting a refurbished (and slightly improved apparently) set over cheap new ones? There's a place in Kiapoi that do "upgraded refurbished injectors" for what seems like a decent price. Sitting at the lights the other day I got the familiar rough idle back, but instead of a bit of excessive black smoke it was accompanied by extreme amounts of white smoke and a strong raw diesel smell, any touch on the throttle stopped it and after a few minutes on the motorway it stopped again. Thinking I've got a sticky/dirty injector (s). 1kzte, not using coolant, runs well most of the time, fuel consumption has been getting worse recently. Pull your intake system apart and clean out the carbon chockablock that's formed. Next, blank off the EGR so it doesn't happen again. Then get your radiator flushed and replace the viscous fan hub. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Sweet, might just have to bite the bullet and do it properly at some point soon. What's your thought on removing the throttle body from the system altogether? Have been told by a couple of Surf owners that it's only there for the EGR so it might as well be deleted at the same time, was thinking of just removing the butterflys and shaft then capping the holes to keep the boost in. Both upper and lower radiators are only about 2 years old so hopefully won't need to be flushed out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Does anyone have a 6.2 or 6.5 chev diesel hanging around? Im having thoughts about re powering the van Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 11 hours ago, Raizer said: Sweet, might just have to bite the bullet and do it properly at some point soon. What's your thought on removing the throttle body from the system altogether? Have been told by a couple of Surf owners that it's only there for the EGR so it might as well be deleted at the same time, was thinking of just removing the butterflys and shaft then capping the holes to keep the boost in. Both upper and lower radiators are only about 2 years old so hopefully won't need to be flushed out though. When I blocked my egr I just put a ball bearing in one of the vacuum hoses, mine's the full electronic model so if you fuck with it too much it'll throw errors.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 21 hours ago, Raizer said: What's the go with replacing injectors, worth getting a refurbished (and slightly improved apparently) set over cheap new ones? There's a place in Kiapoi that do "upgraded refurbished injectors" for what seems like a decent price. first job i do when buying a diesel, is to whip them out and get the spray pattern checked. more power and less fuel consumption than if they are sticky/worn etc. i usually pay around $100-130 per injector for rebuild.. depending on the nozzle 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 compound turbo L200 eh 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 How do the tacho in ditself cars work? I know a guy with a laurel motor in his car that needs a tachometer. And I know a guy wrecking a laurel with a Rev counter. Rather than embarking down a snipe hunt to see how it works, I thought I'd ask the OS hive mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Old ones run off the back of the alternator modern prob run off the computer laurel is prob off alternator it will have a terminal marked tach if it does 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 Some have a sensor on the fuel pump or get one of these http://www.anythingelectronic.co.nz/aenz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=245 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 6 minutes ago, AllTorque said: Some have a sensor on the fuel pump or get one of these http://www.anythingelectronic.co.nz/aenz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=245 will that work on ANY aftermarket tacho ? my povo spec cruiser dosn't have one factory, and would ideally like one but the full VDO set-up that runs off alternator is hella spendy , and i have working petrol tachos sitting unused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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