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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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7 hours ago, JustHarry said:

Is the rest of the panel bad enough to warrant total replacement? 

If not its a 2 person job hold a block of wood (2x4 pine is adequate) on the outside and cork the swage back into it with an appropriate corking too

Always get edges back first then dress the rest of the panel to suit. That way you reduce the risk of getting a full panel that requires shrinking.

If it just needs dressing then its probably not worth replacing if its quite rusty maybe it is.  The arch looks pretty munted too

Actually not in the worst shape rust wise, just s small strip at the bottom, the arch is pretty munted, but again, fairly simple geometry to patch up. new panels are available, just at $650usd and the state of shipping right now, i'll give this a few taps before admitting defeat!

I have some rimu offcuts, i'll see if any are about right, thanks for the strategy!

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42 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

You think you're too good for bog? If it was good enough for your dad it's good enough for you.

/Barryrant

I will quit my job and complete a 5 year panelbeating apprenticeship if it saves me one day of sanding bog, this is the extent of my hatred towards that satanic dust

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34 minutes ago, NickJ said:

I will quit my job and complete a 5 year panelbeating apprenticeship if it saves me one day of sanding bog, this is the extent of my hatred towards that satanic dust

I'd suggest sorting out the damage on the arch first before tackling the broader area of the panel.  With the look of that arch it'll be pulling the rest of the panel hollow and you might risk over stretching the center in the effort to get the line back. 

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6 hours ago, nzstato said:

Also, can you unpick the panel to work on it off the car?  Would make the job a whole lot easier...

So obvious, give that man a cigar!

I will have a closer look and see how it is all stitched in...

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It wont be worth taking off unless your getting a new one

I can come show you a few tricks but all my tools are at work and lockdown. So i cant get them

You will probably just end up re filling the wheel arch as its to hard to get to. Newtech is good for stuff like that where you need to get some decent thickness

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2 minutes ago, Mof said:

Do you risk losing overall shape if you take it off? 

I would totally be surprised if it didn't.

I removed a panel from the Defender that needed touching up, was so much easier having full access to both sides with nothing in the way.

Best to point out that i'm not looking for the shortest path to having the Datsun looking good again, i'm looking for the most enjoyable path where I get to learn stuff.

If we can hold religious meetings under L4 you're welcome to visit and read me a sermon from the book of hammers @JustHarry

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56 minutes ago, NickJ said:

I would totally be surprised if it didn't.

I removed a panel from the Defender that needed touching up, was so much easier having full access to both sides with nothing in the way.

Best to point out that i'm not looking for the shortest path to having the Datsun looking good again, i'm looking for the most enjoyable path where I get to learn stuff.

If we can hold religious meetings under L4 you're welcome to visit and read me a sermon from the book of hammers @JustHarry

Since your not in a hurry it can wait a bit. Ive been crook the last few days anyway. And i dont need to spread it further than the rooster at work decided he had to .

But yeah i can come have a look at some point

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13 hours ago, JustHarry said:

Since your not in a hurry it can wait a bit. Ive been crook the last few days anyway. And i dont need to spread it further than the rooster at work decided he had to .

But yeah i can come have a look at some point

Yeah, plenty of time, although I do have a bit more spare now! Once these shenanigans are over, pop round for a beer

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They do, but i remember it being a ball ache to find any in nz.

 

possible option is to get the correct size npt fitting as a blanking cap and thread + solder a suitable nipple on it

 

will see if i can dig up who i eventually got one off

 

or chasing your measurements its these?

BRASS BARB FITTING - 1/4" NPT MALE to 5/16" HOSE STRAIGHT - fuel oil water  | eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333437516691

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221641780372

 

which you will find here, i had some oddball ones

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Front strut tower brace question.

Running coilover suspension in the old tin can, so it should handle a bit better than factory. What are the onions on front strut braces? I have one off an ae86 that I was told fits my car, but actually doesn't as it's too short. So place is to cut the mounts off and weld on longer ones. But only keen on bothering with that if the braces are worthwhile for a road going car with uprated suspension. Other that the coilovers have stiffer spring rates / dampening than OEM but no other braces have been uprated.

Give me your 2c coins.

 

It's this style

SCA_SPO4290304_hi-res.jpg

 

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Somewhat related Barry sharn:

 

You can't fit a gearbox to a KP starlet if you jack it up on one side only, the body flexes enough that the bellhousing fouls with the tunnel before you can mate it to the flywheel

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21 hours ago, cletus said:

A way of seeing if it will do anything is to stick a length of masking tape between the two strut tops and jack the car up diagonally or bounce on the suspension 

If the tape moves, ie gets a dip in it, you will know the towers are moving around  

Will give that a hoon, thanks.

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9 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Somewhat related Barry sharn:

 

You can't fit a gearbox to a KP starlet if you jack it up on one side only, the body flexes enough that the bellhousing fouls with the tunnel before you can mate it to the flywheel

Must be a side effect of the lift kit in yours, we changed a starlet gearbox on the side of the road only jacking one side

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