tortron Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 i believe its just conductive ink, you could try a circuit repair pen Quote
ajg193 Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 2 hours ago, tortron said: i believe its just conductive ink, you could try a circuit repair pen Those pens are literally rubbish 1 Quote
tortron Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 I agree, but maybe work for going in a microwave Quote
tortron Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 Really it's just wanting heat so some nichrome wire and a power source, then press it on would pro a ly work Quote
NickJ Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 3 hours ago, kws said: Anyone know somewhere that can redo glass in a wing mirror? the Marina mirrors are in good condition except the silvering is coming off the mirror glass ( so you can see through the mirror). I want to keep the mirrors, so need someone that can fit a replacement mirror glass that is cut to the weird shape. I feel like novus/smith&smith are a bit too generic to do it right? Buy standard mirror (non-toughened) and waterjet cut to shape. I have used our waterjet to cut glass of all sizes so don't see why this wouldn't work. 1 Quote
yetchh Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 4 hours ago, kws said: Anyone know somewhere that can redo glass in a wing mirror? the Marina mirrors are in good condition except the silvering is coming off the mirror glass ( so you can see through the mirror). I want to keep the mirrors, so need someone that can fit a replacement mirror glass that is cut to the weird shape. I feel like novus/smith&smith are a bit too generic to do it right? I need to do this also so bought a 300x400mm plastic mirror from the warewhare.. Have yet to make them and mirror its still sitting on the kitchen table where I left it 2 months ago. 2 Quote
yoeddynz Posted August 27, 2021 Posted August 27, 2021 I rough cut down a mirror and then ground the corners with the grinder. It was messy and the edge wasn't perfect but the black sealant I used to hold it in place within the stainless casing hid the edges. It was totally functional and looked suitably ropey enough for a shitty old viva wagon. 2 Quote
87creepin Posted August 29, 2021 Posted August 29, 2021 Some more drum brake spam I pulled my drums off and gave them a good clean, wound the self adjusters in as I found they had too much friction within the drums and the wheels weren't rotating as freely as they should. The wheel cylinders did have a bit of gunk leaking out of them. I now have a sometimes spongy brake pad (need a bleed most likely) But I am leaning towards buying new parts and wheel cylinders rather than just doing cheap solutions and hopefully it works, fail wof, do some more work, only to fail again. Thoughts? Quote
ajg193 Posted August 29, 2021 Posted August 29, 2021 cylinders are like $5, just do the whole lot 2 Quote
Valiant Posted August 31, 2021 Posted August 31, 2021 Shoes look ok Cylinders are stuffed. Replace the lot if you're feeling wealthy. Once its all bleed up you will have to adjust it manually through the back plate. Adjust it up until the wheel wont turn then back it off until it turns freely. Edit. Chances are if the pedal is low now it's because the adjusters have been backed off. 2 1 Quote
Adoom Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 Has anyone installed a in-tank efi pump into a fuel tank that did not have one before? I'm considering using an in-tank pump on the triumph, for the 1uzfe. My reasons are so I don't need to find an external mounting location and avoid having a surge tank and lift pump, also I would assume it's much quieter(because not-racecar). Is it straightforward? How do you deal with fuel surge? The tank has no internal baffles. What about the height of the tank? The oem stuff I have seen photos of look like just a big plastic thing with everything contained within it, I suspect I cannot modify that for height, or make use of the included float level. Should I just use an external pump and mount it under the car, using the OEM outlet on the bottom of the tank? I've finished the ecu wiring and want to test start the engine... but the old external fuel pump I had was fuckzorred(I think the E85 ate it) so I need to think about a new pump now... Quote
ajg193 Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 Toyota setups are just a pump hanging from a cradle with a little pot under them to hold a small reserve of fuel Quote
datlow Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 Can buy foam “baffling” comes in those square fuel cells etc (google fuel tank foam) https://nzkw.com/shop/brand-new-nzkw-yellow-buffle-fuel-foam/ intank setup is just flexi hose to a pipe so should be able to find one close an fine tune the length easily? or go fancy aftermarket universal ones https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/in-tank_retrofit_fuel_module/ Quote
cletus Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 Speaking of fuel stuff 400 series push lock hose What's a good brand /supplier for hose that doesnt go hard and crack after 12 months? Quote
chris r Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 Or aeromotive do their phantom systems if you are feeling super wealthy https://www.speedscience.co.nz/products/aeromotive-efi-returnless-phantom Quote
Adoom Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 I'm keen on modifying something from another car and replacing the pump. Those aftermarket ones seem excessive for my application. Does anyone know of a suitable doner that is all metal so I can modify it easily? I suppose I could just make it all from scratch. It's just a flat plate with some pipes and a bracket thing. Quote
ajg193 Posted September 6, 2021 Posted September 6, 2021 Anything from 1990's Toyota is all metal 1 Quote
Sunbeam Posted September 8, 2021 Posted September 8, 2021 Changing the oil in my compressor today. I got the manual out and it says use 5w50 synthetic engine oil. The factory oil I drained was the colour and consistency of cold golden syrup. I haven’t seen any compressor oil that looks like that, but not an expert etc… No 5w50 in stock but I have 10w50. Good enough. Wot you reckon? 1 Quote
tortron Posted September 8, 2021 Posted September 8, 2021 is it just a normal piston compressor? normally its just an sae 30 or similar with no detergents if it says synthetic engine oil then go hard id say as at anything above zero degrees it will be the same thickness Quote
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