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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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2 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

If a driveshaft hoop is welded, does that weld need to be NDT?

Depends, how good are the welds? I would say give it a DT and see how it fairs.

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I'll tack it, then get S.W.I.M to lay some fat beads at high current. 

the whole whole time I raped my 1200 on the street/strip/skids it ran a home shortened, unbalanced driveshaft with no hoop. One time at the drags a kp60 with a Ca18det with nitrous lunched a front UJ. Even with the hoop it made an almighty mess. I remember looking under it after it was winched onto the trailer and thinking, shit, I really should put one of them on my car. (But never did) 

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Hi,

On a 2 door car with back seats, is it necessary to have the mechanism to quick fold the front seatback, both on passenger and driver side?

I had a look at VIRM but it doesn't seem to mention anything like that.

Cheers

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Yes, you need to have access in and out of the back seat. But you can get away with only one side having access in and out. So the drivers seat can be fixed back buckets.

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What is allowable in terms of wheel repairs, more thinking for cert than wolf. 2 of my SSRs had cracks on inner barrels so have now had them welded up by TTT. Currently not ground back or anything so you can see all the welding but are wheel repairs on cert or wolf mans radar?

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2 hours ago, xsspeed said:

What is allowable in terms of wheel repairs, more thinking for cert than wolf. 2 of my SSRs had cracks on inner barrels so have now had them welded up by TTT. Currently not ground back or anything so you can see all the welding but are wheel repairs on cert or wolf mans radar?

LVVTA Wheels and Tyre Standard says...
Aluminum wheels must not be repaired unless the repair is carried out in accordance with the requirements specified for wheel repair within the Land Transport Rule: Wheels and Tyres 2001 (Rule 32013), in which case it is not a modification.

Land Transport Wheels and Tyre Rule says...
3.2(5)     A repair to an alloy wheel must:
    (a) be compatible with the material specification of the item to be repaired; and
    (b) restore the damaged or worn wheel so that it is within safe tolerance of its original state when manufactured, as able to be demonstrated by a physical test

 

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So use the right materials and prove its within a safe tolerance (x%?) Of original state as demonstrated by a physical test (what test?)

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In my experience once they have been welded, they often crack again at the same place or at the edge of the weld

I had 3x 19"rims welded by a wheel repair specialist,  they were all fucked again within a year. That was on cheap wheels on a car that did a lot of km though so yours might last better  

 

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Big thanks to all you helpful folks on here! Quick question, cc rating on my cert plate has a typo. Should I bother getting it updated, or not worth the hassle? It should read 3968cc. 

IMG-8371.jpg.6aa0d8ec7b69c6bb588a7ad1fb7f9fb5.jpg

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Yes definitely get that sorted. Contact your certifier and he should be able to get you a new one  

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4 hours ago, Nominal said:

Nice trolling. @KKtrips

Capture.JPG

Meeeeee? Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

tumblr_nzd3zkYgBf1tacyaxo1_500.gifv

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I'm exploring options for the brake upgrade on my truck, the most straightforward being buying the diffs out of a y61 Safari and having the bigger brakes arrive wholesale, this is tempting but expensive.

The easiest is some calipers off a y60 tb42e, these are twin pot and bolt on, but seem to be hard to find.

People have used R33 four pots, someone in Oz was doing a kit for a while, and this seems like a cheapish possiblity. However the construction manual doesn't have anything I can find about custom caliper mounts, although there is a mention that only OEM stuff can be used. If this is the case fair enough but if someone can clarify it for me that would be appreciated.

Chur

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7 hours ago, ThePog said:

I'm exploring options for the brake upgrade on my truck, the most straightforward being buying the diffs out of a y61 Safari and having the bigger brakes arrive wholesale, this is tempting but expensive.

The easiest is some calipers off a y60 tb42e, these are twin pot and bolt on, but seem to be hard to find.

People have used R33 four pots, someone in Oz was doing a kit for a while, and this seems like a cheapish possiblity. However the construction manual doesn't have anything I can find about custom caliper mounts, although there is a mention that only OEM stuff can be used. If this is the case fair enough but if someone can clarify it for me that would be appreciated.

Chur

You can make your own caliper adapter mounts, no worries. Best/easiest if they are flat plate of reasonable thickness. It's OK to weld spacers on to get the position correct.

Here's a pic of the plate for the Mercury. On this I just let the spacers float on the bolts

p1070516.jpg

p1070518.jpg

 

The ones for the Morris are on the top left of this pic, spacers are welded to these

bpp.jpg

It's usually a matter of trying calipers out until you find a set that can be mounted easily.

 

 

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That is good to know thanks.

I have a feeling that 4 pots will be difficult, i suspect the disc offset isn't enough for caliper to rim clearance, and I don't want to run spacers.

I might go down to the 4wd spares place and have a sift through the brake bins, although maybe I should look at an adaptor for the two pots i have already..

 

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Just now, ThePog said:

That is good to know thanks.

I have a feeling that 4 pots will be difficult, i suspect the disc offset isn't enough for caliper to rim clearance, and I don't want to run spacers.

I might go down to the 4wd spares place and have a sift through the brake bins, although maybe I should look at an adaptor for the two pots i have already..

 

Wrecking yards / parts bins are good to look through for options. Also disc brake catalogs like DBA https://www.dba.com.au/products/catalogue/ for alternative disc options that will make things fit better.

 

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Just now, Nominal said:

Wrecking yards / parts bins are good to look through for options. Also disc brake catalogs like DBA https://www.dba.com.au/products/catalogue/ for alternative disc options that will make things fit better.

 

Ye the Y61 have a rotor that is 10mm bigger and way thicker, I reckon that will be the starting point.

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