For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Bluebear01]

@KKtrips You're a champion, thanks heaps!

[Nominal]

Nice trolling. @KKtrips

[KKtrips]

4 hours ago, Nominal said:

Nice trolling. @KKtrips

Meeeeee? Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

[ThePog]

I'm exploring options for the brake upgrade on my truck, the most straightforward being buying the diffs out of a y61 Safari and having the bigger brakes arrive wholesale, this is tempting but expensive.

The easiest is some calipers off a y60 tb42e, these are twin pot and bolt on, but seem to be hard to find.

People have used R33 four pots, someone in Oz was doing a kit for a while, and this seems like a cheapish possiblity. However the construction manual doesn't have anything I can find about custom caliper mounts, although there is a mention that only OEM stuff can be used. If this is the case fair enough but if someone can clarify it for me that would be appreciated.

Chur

[Nominal]

7 hours ago, ThePog said:

I'm exploring options for the brake upgrade on my truck, the most straightforward being buying the diffs out of a y61 Safari and having the bigger brakes arrive wholesale, this is tempting but expensive.

The easiest is some calipers off a y60 tb42e, these are twin pot and bolt on, but seem to be hard to find.

People have used R33 four pots, someone in Oz was doing a kit for a while, and this seems like a cheapish possiblity. However the construction manual doesn't have anything I can find about custom caliper mounts, although there is a mention that only OEM stuff can be used. If this is the case fair enough but if someone can clarify it for me that would be appreciated.

Chur

You can make your own caliper adapter mounts, no worries. Best/easiest if they are flat plate of reasonable thickness. It's OK to weld spacers on to get the position correct.

Here's a pic of the plate for the Mercury. On this I just let the spacers float on the bolts

 

The ones for the Morris are on the top left of this pic, spacers are welded to these

It's usually a matter of trying calipers out until you find a set that can be mounted easily.

 

 

[ThePog]

That is good to know thanks.

I have a feeling that 4 pots will be difficult, i suspect the disc offset isn't enough for caliper to rim clearance, and I don't want to run spacers.

I might go down to the 4wd spares place and have a sift through the brake bins, although maybe I should look at an adaptor for the two pots i have already..

 

[Nominal]

Just now, ThePog said:

That is good to know thanks.

I have a feeling that 4 pots will be difficult, i suspect the disc offset isn't enough for caliper to rim clearance, and I don't want to run spacers.

I might go down to the 4wd spares place and have a sift through the brake bins, although maybe I should look at an adaptor for the two pots i have already..

 

Wrecking yards / parts bins are good to look through for options. Also disc brake catalogs like DBA https://www.dba.com.au/products/catalogue/ for alternative disc options that will make things fit better.

 

[ThePog]

Just now, Nominal said:

Wrecking yards / parts bins are good to look through for options. Also disc brake catalogs like DBA https://www.dba.com.au/products/catalogue/ for alternative disc options that will make things fit better.

 

Ye the Y61 have a rotor that is 10mm bigger and way thicker, I reckon that will be the starting point.

[Dudley]

So I have a ke20 with a leaf spring rear. It has 50mm blocks and I’m going to reset the leafs so it will have 70mm drop over all. I will only have about 25mm travel between the diff and the bumpstop in the driveshaft tunnel. Will this fail cert?

[Beaver]

Possibly not helpful, but I went through cert with reset leaves and blocks and general requirements (not saying this is explicit or holds true with all inspectors, but its what he told me he needed to see) was not on bumps with passengers in car, reasonable car to road clearance when on bumps (from memory he said 50mm), and not flat/cut down bumps (i.e. they needed to have some give).  i was about 100 mm drop all up though. In the end I went from 2" to 1" blocks and some less cut down bump stops..

[Bling]

To quote Clint

Quote

40mm bump 40mm droop from ride height. 

Depending on the car and suspension and bumpstop type,  can include some bumpstop compression in that figure 

So that is probably a good place to start.

For context, start reading here:

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/17433-for-questions-regarding-wofscertsnumber-plates/page/327/

While there are some rules with little leeway, your best bet is to touch base with the certifier too. Saves going down the wrong track.

[MACKAZ]

@cletus @KKtrips I heard/read/dreamt that engine mounts attached to chassis require a plate welded to chassis (larger that actual mount) then mount welded to that. Did I actually dream that? If so how thick does the plate need to be, and recommendation of wall thickness for the actual mount? With the Ford's mounts being further back than the Holden the mounts will be where the chassis bends, so will need to be made of formed plate. Or can I use a large round mount like so and have a flat plate mount

[cletus]

 

A mount attached to the side of a chassis rail has to span the whole height of the rail

So if your chassis is RHS you cant butt weld a flat plate to half way down the rail as it will cause cracks.  So you could either make gussets that go full height of the rail, or weld a reinforcing plate on first which I'm picking is what you are talking about 

[MACKAZ]

@cletusThanks mate. I'm picking I will go with a 3mm reinforcing plate (if thick enough) then use a mount similar to pictured above. Sound above board? Reason I'm asking here is our certifier up here is super unhelpful. Just a dick to deal with..... More interested in truck trailers and towbars

[jono007]

Has anyone here had any issues having Hardrace suspension bits certified? I have had them on the car for a while with no issues just want to get it all legal beagle. 

 

[KKtrips]

44 minutes ago, jono007 said:

Has anyone here had any issues having Hardrace suspension bits certified? I have had them on the car for a while with no issues just want to get it all legal beagle.

Are they a loaded arm and do they use a spherical rod end?

[jono007]

Yeah the rear lower arms are a spherical end and the front camber arms are just a hardened rubber.

[cletus]

What car is it?

[jono007]

Toyota Altezza, Please dont judge me.....Haha

[cletus]

Rear lowers will be an issue if they have an adjuster on the inner bush end but it depends how far outboard the shock mount is, LVVTA does not allow any side loading on a threaded joint, sometimes if it is within the load rating of the joint we can pass it if we can do calculations to prove it's ok

Fronts if its upper arms, have not done any hardrace altezza ones but the usual issue on that design of suspension is when the car is low enough to need camber arms =

the upper ball joint hits the body before the bump stop limits the travel=

the car has to be raised=

then it doesnt need camber arms any more

Also the adjustable arms are usually taller or longer or a different shape in the ball joint mount area so they make the problem worse than with the standard arms 

 

 

In general, hardrace stuff is ok, you do have to make sure the welding is good though as some is shit. The reseller here swears they are all welded by robot but I've seen a few where the robot forgot to turn the gas on, the robot missed the join, or the robot fucked up the weld, ground it down and had another go. Silly robots