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The local cert guy wants us to put “tube nuts” in as the upper seatbelt mounts. When I google them I can’t find anything. Does anyone have a link for something similar? 

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They should provide you examples of what they'll accept / expect. They may want a certain rating of whatever the fuck that is lol. Worth asking the specific certifier you plan to use what they are wanting exactly

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He just showed me a picture on the Lvvta book. I’m just struggling to find them online to buy

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6 minutes ago, Dudley said:

The local cert guy wants us to put “tube nuts” in as the upper seatbelt mounts. When I google them I can’t find anything. Does anyone have a link for something similar? 

Try searching 'seat belt barrel bolt' 

This was common in 50s and 60s cars when lap and diagonal belts became a requirement

 

 

20200708_205904.jpg

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I think that’s what he was talking about.

 

will look into finding some cheers for that.

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These guys may sell em. http://www.fiddymont.co.nz/

Could just get some off existing belts if no luck there. I have a few small ones (fuck knows where, just recall having some) from belts wrecked. I'm sure others have some in their bolt buckets.

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Can you make two piece brake rotors by machining the hat off an OEM solid rotor and drilling it to suit an aftermarket hat?Not sure on materials used but a mates Celica has had this done in order to change stud pattern. Perhaps they thought there wasnt enough room to redrill them?

received_702580846970030.jpeg

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@cletus @KKtrips

I want to put a datsun 620 through cert for a ld20t . It has kingpin and trunnion front suspension and drum brakes all round at the moment.  I wi be running fairly small tyres likely 195/60/15 so nothing huge to load brakes to much. And I guess prob a 4.1 diff.  Bear in mind the ld20t is not exactly a powerhouse 

In your experience will the drum brakes after being rebuilt, new shoes, cylinders and whatnot, pass the brake testing? Or am I pushing shit uphill even trying to get them through. 

Or do I need to go to ball joints and disk brakes?

Please and thankyou

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Does it run the way it is? You could try it and see

Most likely it will need to pass a 3 stop brake test, which is 3 stops from 100- 0kph, under 4.4 seconds each stop, in a total of 2 minutes max.

 

I have not done a 620 with drums so I dunno how good they are. But commercials in general have brakes a bit bigger than passenger cars of the same era so it might be ok with good quality shoes and everything in good shape  

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Just now, JustHarry said:

@cletus @KKtrips

I want to put a datsun 620 through cert for a ld20t . It has kingpin and trunnion front suspension and drum brakes all round at the moment.  I wi be running fairly small tyres likely 195/60/15 so nothing huge to load brakes to much. And I guess prob a 4.1 diff.  Bear in mind the ld20t is not exactly a powerhouse 

In your experience will the drum brakes after being rebuilt, new shoes, cylinders and whatnot, pass the brake testing? Or am I pushing shit uphill even trying to get them through. 

Or do I need to go to ball joints and disk brakes?

Please and thankyou

*4.6 or 4.8:1

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Just now, cletus said:

Does it run the way it is? You could try it and see

Has no brakes at the moment they need a rebuild as everything is pretty seized.

I'm sorta hoping that since thyre not a super heavy ute and the ld20t although turbo will still be pretty slow, it might be ok. 

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Hi can I change the 14” rims to 16” rims Without any worries on a 95 Toyota dyna? It’s got a hubo and cof etc. only gets 90kmph before the engine noise gets to me. Cheers and sorry for new car question.

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The hubo will be/should be calibrated/correct for a given tyre size so unless you magically end up with the same rolling diameter I suspect you'll be doing something naughty

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From VIRM 

Quote

tyres have an outer circumference that is no more than 5% greater than OE

Look into different diff heads? Would at least keep the hub odo accurate, speedo / odo would be out though. Unless you get that calibrated too.

/earmuffs when on the open road, sorted.

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@cletus Couple of Q's for you when you have time :) 

Do you see any issues with the modifications done on the link below "in principle" to allow the front of a 1952 Belair to be airbagged?
https://www.lowrider.com/how-to-tech/chassis-suspension/0603lrm-cheap-air-bag-suspension/

Do you see any issues with using the below kit to allow the rear of a 1952 Belair to be airbagged?
https://www.jimenezbroscustoms.net/product-page/1949-1954-chevy-car-2-link



If my questions are to broad just let me know

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