shavenYak Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 yep. head casting not the same as well. thanks. one more.. if I go from 4AF to 4AFE then thats needs a cert too right? or does "(d ) has the same type of fuel induction system" just refer to turbo/NA ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 i would read that as doing an engine swap that was carb, and you change to efi, needs cert i assume that is the difference between your examples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Bah, lame. Thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 OK. Im installing some XYZ coilovers to my car that werent made for my car. Ive had some custom top hats made and have made some spacers and sleeves for the bottom attaching thingy. There aren't any mounting brackets for the brake line so I started making some. The XYZ coilovers have a fully removable lower perch Id like to get the car certed for the suspension one day and before I go welding I thought id ask if this is ok Wanting to do this Good to go or hell no? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 yes that looks good, any welding on the front suspension is technically required to be TIG so do it with one of those if you have access to one TBH if it was just a brake hose bracket, i wouldnt fail it if it was MIG. also make sure you leave room for the jam nut 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 So just want to confirm before i go mounting battery, have read back through thread but just double checking. I can run a battery not in a box and in the passengers compartment IF its a dry cell? Yes? Going to mount the battery under where the roof folds down into but tis not sealed off from compartment. Also there is no recommendation for fixings of battery to car? Assume some threaded rod with a decent plate either side of the floor will be sufficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 What is the minimum indicator size for a motorcycle ? And if it's a American import American built motorcycle can it have red indicator lenses ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I like the schedule A guideline for battery. Double clamp, mount to flat surface and minimum 4 M6 fasteners from memory. I run m8 fasteners on mine. Don't forget a legit insulation for the +ve post. Battery doesn't have to be dry cell, but must be SEALED. I run a SLA battery im my mazda and starlet. Guide is maybe a bit tougher than any OEM fitment but might as well do it properly if its not mounted in the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 What is the minimum indicator size for a motorcycle ? And if it's a American import American built motorcycle can it have red indicator lenses ? Thanks Here are the rules https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/motorcycles/lighting/direction-indicator-lampsRed indicators on the rear are ok. No minimum size but must be visible 100m in day and 200m at night. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Cheers Roger . Do these need to be e marked ? Also I can't seem to find any info regarding certifying a motorcycle . In regards to what I've done to my Harley removing the swingarm and welding a Hardtail section in place then calliper mounts and seat pans and the like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Yes, for cert everything will need e marking. As for what you have done, I will assume it will be similar to what I needed for mine; 1D certifier and crack test for everything that has changed and special requirements for brake lever if you have changed/modified it. Also It will need a chain guard, front mud guard, rear reflector and a I think a couple of other pointless things I can't remember right now hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 but you get a 3 year wof 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Interesting Rookie . 2 mates have recently certified their xs650s with weld on hardtails and no crack testing was required . My brake pivot point is on the motor so haven't changed that . All I've done brake wise is the rear calliper mount . In regards to e marked everything I'm fucked as I'm running vintage headlight and taillight . Will run a temp chain guard and front guard for the very process . I'm a bit gutted mine is a 80 not a 78 . Would totally run no indicators if I could avoid it . Might run without them once got first wof 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merrik Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Do you need a heater/ demister for cert? I've just had a quick search on here, it says no but it was from like 2010 and 2012 I believe.. I'm contemplating just blocking them up, but if you need them for a cert obviously thats not going to be a good idea.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Chris, it probably comes down to certifier, and mine was a custom frame not just a weld on hard tail, so in this regard it could very well be different, but I dont see how you could weld on a caliper mount without them wanting it tested. The lights/indicator thing is dumb, but you gotta play the game, the certifier definitely checked mine for e markings. I rode mine without indicators for ages after I changed the rear guard and tyre, but you will need them for wof/have to put the rest of the junk back on, but you have cost to be the boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Do you need a heater/ demister for cert? I've just had a quick search on here, it says no but it was from like 2010 and 2012 I believe.. I'm contemplating just blocking them up, but if you need them for a cert obviously thats not going to be a good idea.. i believe that is the rule in Australia but not here yet, i could be wrong about that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morkster Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 That's what I think too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 So whats the deal with re-vinning a previously certed car. Does it need to be re-certed? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 if its got a current style plate rather than old paper cert (i.e. the info is in the current cert system) and nothing has changed since certing and it's true to the plate and everything else is still kosher then probably not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Thought cert plate died with rego? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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