Jump to content

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


si

Recommended Posts

Thanks.

The panel I'd like to replace is under the rear window so really shouldn't be part of any front or rear impact systems.

I do however believe it may affect the cabs strength in a rollover; I do not wish the replacement piece to be considered structural BUT I could weld in a x of flatbar to remedy this.

Basically, I'd like to remove the ribbed portion and instead bond in a folded and bead rolled piece which sits flush with the rear of the cab and provides me with an internally accessible storage shelf.

Above and below this ribbed panel is a boxed member. These wouldn't be touched.

Hope that made sense

20151201_182215.jpg

if you are removing the ribbed part and replacing it with another bit of sheetmetal (with some shape rolled into it) and not touching the box sections then i cant see a problem

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Which are better?  the spacers with the studs put in them or the spacers that slide over longer studs?

 

All depends on thickness. Obviously the ones with studs can only be so thin as they need to house the studs and wheel nuts, however they do mean you don't need to fit extra long studs to your hubs.

Slip on spacers need to be fastened to either the wheel or the hub though. I don't know why. I guess so if you take the wheel off it can't accidentally go missing.

All depends on thickness really.

this^.

usually 1-20mm better off with spacers

20-30mm= adaptors

15mm adaptors can work but as mentioned, sometimes you can run into issues with the nut holding the adaptor on being too shallow, not enough material under the taper of the nut, or the nut protruding and fouling on the wheel

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

or if you really wanted to weld it you could weld the sleeve into a piece that completely surrounds the sleeve ( same as what you would do if making a custom brake pedal with an adjustable balance bar,)  but you would need to apply for TAC approval

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would it be unacceptable to weld the brake push rod to the steel sleeve in the center of the balance bar?

 

 

I have another plan to make a part that was made from solid and have the push rod threaded into it

 

 

IMG_1719_zpsu3ffmzcb.jpg

Hi 

 

I thought you were not alloud to make your own pedal box ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. 

 

So there is a rod from the peadal to under the seat to activate the brakes .

 

 

Yes, peddle is mounted to chassis and comes up through the floor, there is a rod from under the peddle to under the seat into the box thing with the master cylinders on it, common hotrod thing to do.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They also have authority cards which allow for modifications outside of the cert system.

You can make your own pedal box, but you have to jump through a lot of hoops if you want it legal. It's a lot easier to buy an aftermarket one and fit that.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...