cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 I need to make new engine mounts for my ca18det KP starlet. The current ones are those cotton reel type mounts, so not captive. It is a race car, but I don't really want to go as far as solid mounting the engine. I like those escort world cup crossmember ones that have the horizontal bush with a bolt through it. They look reasonably compact and easy to fabricate. I came across an old post where Cletus said not to use any old bush because you cannot do it up tight and the hole goes oval, or something like that.... What kind of bush would be suitable? Is there an economical option that does not have $100's of escort/rwd/brandname tax added to something that cost $20 to make? have a look at something like this https://www.mountshop.co.nz/ a suspension bush with a crush tube in it works well for what you are talking about 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 teflon or kevlar lined is what the book says, with a load rating suitable for the application I have the information for the load ratings on the T3 rod ends somewhere. I know the 4-link arms far exceeded minimum spec based on what Neil Miller told me. I'll try find the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachlander Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Have bought a bucket seat for my car, but due the cars low roof line and me being quite tall I can't use a normal seat rail to mount it because my head will end up on the roof. What's the rules around solid mounting the seat? I will more than likely end up caging the car, getting authority card etc but until then am in able to do it for cert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Just wanting final confirmation on this before i take a welder to the trans crossmember and prop shaft hanger bearing. What materials should the spacers be made from and what rules do i need to follow/the guy im paying to do this needs to follow. Will probably end up in your shed again Clint so what do you need? The factory trans crossmember on an outback is just shaped differently to give the right amount of drop. what R100 mentioned would be fine, spacers with the same footprint as what the OE crossmember had Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Hey Clint, what's the go if you convert a say 1994 rhd car to lhd, the plan is for it to have a motorsport authority card, but can it be done and still get cert? Like wise with removing airbags and abs? Cant convert a car to LHD. removing airbag and abs is ok though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Have bought a bucket seat for my car, but due the cars low roof line and me being quite tall I can't use a normal seat rail to mount it because my head will end up on the roof. What's the rules around solid mounting the seat? I will more than likely end up caging the car, getting authority card etc but until then am in able to do it for cert? Drivers seat has to be adjustable if it was originally, cant be fixed unless it has authority card or is a scratchbuilt vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 I have the information for the load ratings on the T3 rod ends somewhere. I know the 4-link arms far exceeded minimum spec based on what Neil Miller told me. I'll try find the information. yeah the T3 ones are usually fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Hey Clint, stupid question I'm under the impression when getting removing air bags you need to remove everything (including wiring?) - can i still keep the spiral cable so that indicators will self cancel though? airbag, SRS warning light, and any air bag logos must be removed, wiring can stay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 a suspension bush with a crush tube in it works well for what you are talking about Does the bush need to be bonded to the crush tube and/or outer metal tube/sleeve thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Does the bush need to be bonded to the crush tube and/or outer metal tube/sleeve thing? I'm sure they aren't all that fussy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Does the bush need to be bonded to the crush tube and/or outer metal tube/sleeve thing? no, as long as it is fully insulated my boss used nolathane spring shackle bushes to make his engine mounts. 700hp and they dont show any sign of wear or breaking 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I am looking at some steel rims for a project and want to know if I can get the center moved for a deeper dish? Not sure if this has been asked before, but have had no luck finding it, although I do understand that widening is all good by the certified people to do such work. Cheers, Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Yes that's fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Pretty sure there are parameters to work to in regards to offset (wheel centre position). Someone will confirm / deny with detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Google lvvc wheel offsets. Have a look at the pdf file. Lots of info on it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Sweet, that answered what I needed to know. thankyou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Clint, dahling.If I go from a 2 piece driveshaft to a 1 piece do I need a recert or would I get by with dropping by the certifier so they can get some new pictures and they can sight the receipt for making/balancing? I expect I would have to ditch one driveshaft loop to keep the range of movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 no, as long as it is fully insulated my boss used nolathane spring shackle bushes to make his engine mounts. 700hp and they dont show any sign of wear or breaking Progress. Pajero lower control arm bushes. The question I have is, should I gusset the mount on the cross member? It seems pretty solid already. Like this, or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Would look way better with sides boxed in 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Yeah over time the vibrations and stuff can cause it to fatigue. I'd do as Brick said and box it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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