slipsittin

Awesome car mate. I really love this and the RA28 celica shape and the way they drive (only ever driven standard ones). Your workmanship is a huge credit to your ability to visualise the outcome. Can't wait to see more from you in the future

Not sure what years it covers, but bloody good http://www.epc-data.com/

Do you have an aircon rig?

Yeah I was thinking that, but have never seen one like it. Any brand on it??

I think you could do it with a morse typed cable as they are solid. Personally i would look at after market race typed products as the are usually easy to retrofit

You may need to put a pic up first to clarify, but most likely the negitive one will go to the negitive (or distributor) side of the coil. The plus will go to an ignition feed, but usually there would be an earth of some kind

Commonly used in gokarts and motorcycles for racing, so start with bike shops. Try Automotive Supplies or Supercheap too

Sweet, that answered what I needed to know. thankyou

I am looking at some steel rims for a project and want to know if I can get the center moved for a deeper dish? Not sure if this has been asked before, but have had no luck finding it, although I do understand that widening is all good by the certified people to do such work. Cheers, Corey

I agree with flyingbrick, that about the abuse. What actually happened to the box?

Well the engine is stripped I would go for a cam that is much more driveable than the A6. They are ok if your engine is constantly sitting above 6000-7000rpm, but hopeless trying to drive anywhere in traffic. Technology in cam designs is on our side these days letting us have a nice engine tone with a good rev range and driveability all in one. Just food for thought as I have had that cam and sidedraght combo and it wasn't very friendly on the road. Also you will have to have very well built tuned extractors and a well thought out exhaust to gain any benifits from the cam/carb combo too Corey

Check the distributor cap is the correct one. They come in different offsets, I wrote a big reply before but it got erased so if you have changed the cap check the locating lugs inrelation to the turrets for the leads. It is a common issue with some old stock sometimes.

For what its worth (and that might not be much lol) I run VW Golf adjustable gas pressure tokico, koni or kyb in all the early fords I have ever raced and setup for others. They are a shorter travel shock so I mount them at the bottom of the struts with spacers to keep the original struts the same to avoid issues with officials. This allows you to change springs and just make spacers to suit your arrangement on the day. I have usually set these up with aftermarket springs but not adjustable coils as the smaller diameter spring coils alter the bump steer and increase the chance of cracking the strut towers. To alter your camber the easy way you can get a big range of eccentric bushes from BNT or Autolign and the also sell eccentric bolts and weld on camber slotted kits. Racing these days certainly has a heel of a lot more ease of aftermarket parts that we had to make from scratch. All the best with the car UJ, its looking good. Corey Edit: Forgot to add that my setups always bottomed out when the car was 50mm of the gound and that was at full bottom out not just hitting the bumpstop. The rear can be altered in an even easier way also.

Sorry for the long time no contact. I am having a little trouble getting hold of the guy with the templates for this upgrade at the moment due to something happening with a family member of his. As soon as I hear you will. Corey

The only trouble with that set up is the altering of the travel for your shock valving. Sometimes you can make problems for yourself by doing this sort of mod. I have seen it done and it turn out ok but the guy used adjustable shocks. Corey