MK2-8-U

Wof guy might buy it but if you're in an accident the insurance people might not cover you as your car is technicaly not road worthy

the mounting points for the seats (as in the part that is atached to the floor) has to be 2 plates sandwiching the floor plan, they have to follow the contour of the floor pan (i think you can use cush tubes) but most rises are only like 10mm, the underfloor plate has to have radius edges and a nut welded to the plate also the 2 plates have to be rivited togther. hopefully that make sense

if its a fwd engine, short answer is no. like RAanter said the cost of converting it to rwd + making it run isnt worth it unless you just want a 4age hunter. sr20de would be better imo, pinto would an easier option

Fair enough, if you want one get one. But in the end weld quality will come from the operator, so an auto tig wont make it easier. On a manifold you wont much more than a rods worth of weld before you have to turn it anyway, same with pipe unless you have it in a lathe. A tig is very handy to have especially a high frequency one, but i cant see the point in buying an auto one.

slightly off topic, but what are you trying to fab that requires an auto tig? also if you do make an auto tig, how are you planning on cooling the shroud?

starts now, idles well but then dies when accelerating. now to sort out vacum leaks

ok that didnt seem right so i took the cas off again and this time had a test light in the -ve side of the injector plug and it flashed when spinning the cas. but no viabration on the injectors tho. engine was sitting along time, i'l take the injector rail off and get them tested

just pulled the cas off and could only hear the coil packs tick? is that normal?

il whip the cas of and give it a turn. il do the fault codes in the morning. yea power there when cranking, no ticking tho.

so i have wired up the ca but getting no injector pulse. there is power there but they are not working. there is fuel in the rail and has engine spark also the resistor pack is in. im new to injection so any advice is helpfull

just cut both the mufflers out and replace with straight pipe

yea iv followed that s12 link, done fuel, ecu power and ignition. just with the back up ecu power (12v constant) mine has 2 red wires and by the diaram dont look like they meet, can you remember if you spliced pin 32 or 58?

will do, just a couple little things left to do before cert. like wiring lol

b1600. its your old engine lol

can anyone tell me what to splice into on my ca loom to wire this up? i am only using the engine loom and have the wiring diarams so just pinout numbers would be fine. also i have read the S12 write up but cant seem to find some of the wires on my diaram eg the red wire on s13 harness does he mean pin 32 or 58?, and the ivac black yellow isnt there. i have done the stater alt etc already. thanks in advance