cletus Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Where would I find a chassis number on a fiberglass t bucket built in the 80s? would they have stamped it in to the chassis or would it have had a riveted on vin tag? could be anywhere, they didnt have proper vin tags then. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hi Clint. I have an early 1970s English vehicle. The front guards and nosecone are welded to the monocoque structure. The car has rusty guards and a damaged nosecone (frontal impact). I was going to drill out the spot welds attaching the guards and nosecone to the car and replace it with equivalent parts from an undamaged car. The car had a WoF (now expired) and the registration is currently on hold. Can I do this and run the car in for a WoF? Or do I need extra documentation etc to show the repairs that were carried out? Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 if you do it properly/tidily etc then you should be ok, a wof inspector can ask for a panelbeaters report if he (or she, lol) has any doubts as to the quality of the repair 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks Mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 could be anywhere, they didnt have proper vin tags then. Did they just stamp it in to a chassis? I can see some one has stamped a name into the cross member and some numbers on the chassis rail by the motor but they looked to be hand stamped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 quite possibly, i looked at one today that was built in the 80s and it had some numbers stamped into the chassis rail, looked pretty home done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt4 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Are lock rite ratchet type diff lockers road legal they run open until under load then they lock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 when doing a cert, i used to fail super tight lsd diffs - ie the japanese ones that lock as soon as you even think about accelerating, i had a guy question it so i sent a video to LVVTA of the car, going around a cul de sac in 2nd gear at about 1000 rpm and just on the gas, and the inside wheel chirping because the diff was locked up. My reasoning for not passing them was it acts exactly like a locked diff- imagine that in the wet on a roundabout I was told unless its actually locked or has a spool, then we cant fail it regardless of how tight it is. So have been passing them since then. so yes, locker type LSD is fine. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt4 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 All good thanks it actually drives real well don't chirp the tyres under normal driving just clicks while turning into roads . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Soo what are the rules regarding spacing out calipers. I test fitted some Holden calipers on my struts today. They bolt up but the disk sits off centre. What is the legalaty on placing a spacer between the caliper and mounting lugs?? Like a 4mm plate. Here is a pic of how the disk and caliper are off . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 In my experience using spacers is OK. Some form of spacing offset is usually needed anyway. For the Mercury I just machined a couple of round spaces (like 5mm thick washers) and put the caliper mount bolts through them. This avoided any 'weld' on the caliper mounts. It would be better if they were tacked on, as otherwise the drop out if removing the bolts. On my project (not certed yet) I got the spacers tig welded to the adaptor plate, which I expect will be fine as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Soo what are the rules regarding spacing out calipers. I test fitted some Holden calipers on my struts today. They bolt up but the disk sits off centre. What is the legalaty on placing a spacer between the caliper and mounting lugs?? Like a 4mm plate. Here is a pic of how the disk and caliper are off . spacing the caliper is not a problem, make sure the bolts are long enough etc. also i assume that pic is with the caliper not bolted down? something that a few people get tripped up with is using calipers that dont match the discs- ie the pad hangs off the top of the disc, or a caliper designed for a 30mm thick disc fitted on a 24mm thick one, the pads can fall out or jam when they wear down 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Is this a suitable no-weld solution for joining my booster rod? Sleeve is 4340 and once you give the go-ahead i will pin both ends of the shaft with rollpins. Under the sleve the two shaft ends are hard against one another so during braking the rollpins and sleve take SFA load.the sleve is a very snug fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Would have to check with lvvta on that one. Book says no joins apart from the attachment of end fittings, I realise that is an end fitting, but joining it in the middle might be pushing it as far as the definition of an 'end fitting' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Thanks. Other alternative is running a die over the shaft and using female ball joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Do they define end fitting? I could weld the sleeve to the eye piece haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks Clint . The caliper is bolted up in that photo. The disc is a bit smaller than what will be used in the end .These are 280, the Holden disc are 296(I think) and the bmw disc are 302. The issue I may have is the thickness of the disc that you mentioned .The Holden discs are thicker than the bmw discs. And the centre bore on the Holden disc is bigger so they are loose on the hub. Can I make a press fit collar to allow me to use the bigger bore Holden disc?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Would have to check with lvvta on that one. Book says no joins apart from the attachment of end fittings, I realise that is an end fitting, but joining it in the middle might be pushing it as far as the definition of an 'end fitting' So they said NO but that I could make my own clevis. Will finish this tomorrow, tidier solution anyway! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 To prove ppl do listen to ur advice..(needs to be shortened substantially later) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Hey Clint, Just wondering if these would be certifiable?http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-s15-40mm-roll-center-correction-kit.html Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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