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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/23/17 in Posts

  1. Because everyone likes laughing at my misfortune, let's have another look at those big-end bearings. Yeah. The crank was also scored seven ways from Sunday, and the machinists next door were reluctant to skim it, so now it's a big ole paperweight. These were the worst ones but pretty much every single journal was rooted. We did work out the root cause of all this pain - the factory oil pump had eaten itself, apparently a common thing with the 1st gen motors. I never realized the 4A-GE also suffered from this weak point - it's a common thing to occur on the old Mazda B6Ts as well, although those tend to blow the relief valve and spring first. Lots of deep scoring against the cover: Take note of the area around the vivid mark: In the meantime, things got busy... and my wallet got empty. We acquired a donor 4A-GZE bottom end (from an AE101 this time) and Karl attempted to make a good one out of two. The end result: my block, pistons and sump + donor crank and rods = this. He also sourced a brand new oil pump from Toyota and a couple of other bits and pieces. Head has been sent for a skim, as there was a 0.004" bow in the face (eek). Toyota purists may note the AE101 4A-GZE rods are actually weaker than the preceding AW11/AE92 4A-GZE rods, but I was assured that for my application it wouldn't make a shred of difference. Different story if I was planning to go 7A and/or turbo I suppose. The first photo below should answer the age-old question of whether 1st gen 4A-GZE (AW11) blocks were 7-rib or 3-rib. Generic oil filter for the running in period. Better get more than 100,000km out of this shiny new TGP pump! Thanks to fellow oldschool member @Dell'orto I now have a SC12 from an AE101. They look very similar at first glance to the one that came off the AW11 but note the radius of each pulley face; AE101's is slightly smaller. If this translates into a slight boost increase, it won't be a bad thing I'm sure. When I next go back to the workshop I'll dig the verniers out and compare the inner diameter of each pulley, but I'm pretty confident they are different sizes, and the Toyota wizards on the internet also seem to indicate the same. This clutch also arrived. Sadly, Toyota no longer stocks a genuine clutch kit for the AW11 SC Next step is to speak to Mark at Toyota to see if I can find a suitable 1.1mm or thicker MLS head gasket before the engine can be fully reassembled. And do some more overtime in the mines to pay for all this faffing about. Discuss the colossal fail here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49412-80s-kid-part-ii-eds-aw11-sc-chit-chat/
    7 points
  2. As much as I love my wheels tyre rub is an issue since lowering. I am running 175/50's but rubbing with any weight in the boot or back seat. I took a chance last Sunday evening and pilled the kids in the back to go for a short drive, turned out it was a real short drive. Sidewall wore right through within 4km then the tyre popped. Long story short I want to get some new wheels that suit my lifestyle better, 13x7.5 -19 offset is just to aggresive and tyre options are a bitch. I am probably going to get some new repro Hotwires in 13x7 +3 offset. Until then I have borrowed some old 13x6Cheviot Hustlers. They have seen some life and been on many a car and stored for years so are a bit rough. Spent a few hours today cleaning them up, pretty pleased with how they have turned out. Will put my tyres on them tomorrow, buy some new shank wheel nuts and then do some driving.
    5 points
  3. And adult supervision arrived and advised me that the exhaust also needs to be detached haha, thanks Al! Nek minute
    5 points
  4. Brought home 2 trailer loads of death/Honda/toys today, with the reputation that at least one of them has, I may have found exactly how I am going to die haha 1st off the one that's supposedly too dangerous to ride 1985(?) Honda ATC125m trike, looks mostly complete, told it was running a while ago, but the gearbox mucks around and it's got no brakes, will try and get it going tomorrow. That frame thing in the corner of the trailer is a home built/modded go kart He's dropping the axle and bearing blocks etc off next week. 2nd trailer is where it gets a bit more fun in my mind 1990 Honda Gyro X, 49cc with the correct amount of strokes, looks like it was regged as a motorcycle rather than a moped, so hopefully I can get it on a moped rego!! Also to share the death, Aaron got a Honda powered kart out of the deal Carb clean, oil and fresh gas and away it went! Clutch slips a lot though and I need to find a brake disk for it as well as get the caliper mount welded back to the frame, he's very impressed with it though lol He got a bit braver after a while. Gyro only needed fresh gas and a jump start to get going, so we gave it a half ass wash and I took off on it, got 5k from home when it died and then would only run at less than 1/4 throttle, managed to ride it home feathering the throttle at a blistering 7kph. Quick squirt of carb cleaner and it was away again, it's a fucking hoot to ride, tops out at 45 but shit it feels like it's flying and yeah I think I'm in love. Got several thumbs up from random people too haha. Shit I hope I can get it on moped reg!!! If I can't it'll be a tidy up and on sell Otherwise I'm thinking 70cc kit, big carb, custom pipe, 12x10 or 10x8 ATV rims from eBay with stretched scooter tyres on the back, 10" or 12" Dio front end with disk brake etc, the stock 8" front 6" rear wheels with tiny drums leave a lot to be desired! Something like these but rougher and cheaper
    4 points
  5. Whatever you do, don't try to rationalise any of this. I can hear everybody saying 'why would you bother?' already. About 12 months ago I was clawing my eyes out one weekend, I needed a hobby. Preferably one that could be done on the lounge coffee table as I really don't have the space for a complete vehicle (which is a bit of a laugh as I've since purchased an old car that bit of work but that is a story for another day). Anyway I was scrolling trademe one night an saw this old wooden ski boat for sale, I fizzed. I looked at that listing at least 23 times over the coming days. The lines of it were similar to an old, cheaper Chris Craft (if you don't know what a Chris Craft is do a google search and try not to drool on your keyboard). I didn't buy that boat, someone else made the terrible life decision and spent $2500 on it. But all along I thought 'man it would be cool with a V12 Jaguar engine in it'. Now this isn't a project of how a V12 Jaguar engine gets turned into a coffee table, well, not yet at least. I starting doing various googlings of V12 Jaguar motors and thought they looked cool with Weber IDFs on them. more googling said that 40mm Weber IDFs were the size of choice (don't ask me why, it just seemed to be the most common size). Trademe searching continues. One day a 40mm Weber IDF appears on trademe, perfect I think, I can pull it apart, clean it and put it back together on a coffee table (the whole plan of a hobby to begin with). The carb is in Christchurch, Runamuck is a champion and puts it in a box and sends it to me, Ka pai. I pull this thing apart, glass bead bast it at a buddys place and put it back together with a new throttle shaft, bearings and gaskets purchased off Ebay. All along wondering why it looked different to other 40mm IDFs on google images. More research ensues and it turns out it is a model unique to the Fiat 124 (I think the 124 Spyder specifically) and would have been one of a matched pair. Anyway I now have this tidy looking carb. Awesome, now what?
    4 points
  6. I had a pretty productive week on the prince. Made it to the auckland OS auckland monthly without a hitch. It was a good night! I managed to get some stop leak into the radiator and so far so good hasnt leaked any since the initial leak. Mean. Another problem which has been occuring is after driving the starter motor doesnt seem to want to tick over. Can hear the solanoid tick but nothing from the starter.. So yesterday i decided to take it off and inspect it. On inspection it all looked OK. Was full of oil/grease due to rocker cover gasket leaking oil all over it. Gave it a good degrease and clean up, re greased what needed to be done. It was auctually prick of a job. I needed to remove intake manifold and extractors to get the starter motor out. Mish. Anyway once back together i turned it on and off about was 10x total in between of letting it get to temperature. Took it for a drive around the block turned off and on no problems. Boy was i wrong. I went to put some gas in and got stuck! Same problem ticking away. While i had to sit there for 40 odd minutes until the car cooled so it would start again i read after market extractors causing issues run to close to block and ofcourse.. the starter motor. I felt the starter motor and it did feel hot. It has a remote solonoid on the guard so it cant be that.. or can it. Needed a push start to get home from mates after gas station break down and this morning i could not get it going again. Maybe the battery is stuffed.. it is a 2nd hand one i brought from zebra 2 odd years ago. Apon stumbling on an old barry and engaging conversation he had a piece of heat shield from ACL which he gave me to wrap starter motor in to hopefully stop the issue with the starter. Battery currently on the trickle charge. Tomorrow i will do some more tests once i grab my multimeter from work. On another note caught up with Rich and got this sweet roof rack off him Had a siezed clamp which abit of heat. Multi grips and WD40 it was free pretty easy. Here's some pics. I'm abit 50/50 with it at the moment. Lets see if it grows on me. Crappy driveway photos couldnt move car. Tell me what ya reckon Discussion:
    4 points
  7. The only suspension on the ATC is the balloon tyres and the seat foam!
    3 points
  8. Tested out the route. Route is awesome. Heaps of variety with mean bends and downhills, views and short cuts. Queen St traffic light drags are gonna be the highlight of the day. Can't wait for the 27th. Gotta get the bike tip top now. Less than a month to go! Trailer skids also awesome. Ft: @Shakotom
    3 points
  9. Almost finished the aluminium work now.
    3 points
  10. Except for the hand brake cable which decided to snap when i parked up at home. British cars know how to celebrate getting a warrant.
    3 points
  11. I haven't looked too closely, but I think this one has the high/low selector at least, and a big spring holding the shifter up. It's tomorrow's mission. Looks like I can get a pair of second hand 10x9" alloy wheels for $250 delivered, tyres are going to be the hard part I think. That's a 10x9 with a 205/30/10 on the left, looks perfect to me. /Should get it legal before even thinking about wheels/pipe/stretch.
    3 points
  12. Now, Will it fit? Well, by crikey, it might just work... Of course it's all good having one side line up, the real test is when #2 is made and whether or not it will simultaneously line up. On the desk it looks plausible. And with some minor filing of the holes on the cylinder head flanges (I haven't fixed the spacing issue with the stud holes) they even fit on the head, with the ID on the intake runner being on the money with the intake port on the cylinder head. It all looks plausible, but just to be sure I drop some bolts of conveniently the right diameter through the holes to see if they line up. Magic, The butterflies open like they should and it appears the intake runner and bottom of the carb line up as they should, not bad for a rookie if I do say so myself.
    3 points
  13. While that is going on, a couple of months back another weirdo (I say weirdo because you have to be to own one of these things) lists a V12 Jaguar engine for sale here on Oldschool. On this particular night I'm 3 or 4 Coronas deep, which to me is the perfect amount to assist in making rash decisions without worrying about the consequences. So I message the guy and say I'll take it, and fire some money away. Oh man, It's in Dannevirke. How is this going to work, luckily a buddy was going to a wedding down Wellington ways and picked it up for me on the way back, I then picked it up from his place in the Waikato. It is a Pre HE motor, out of a Series 2 XJ12 sedan according to the block number, The internet led me to believe the Pre HE motors are the ones to get when it comes to these motors, which was it's big selling point. I made a day trip to pick it up and got it back to Auckland and on an engine stand, I swear it was the worlds longest day
    3 points
  14. Couple of nice lil pictures from the since non-stop driving Hasn't missed a beat
    3 points
  15. @Raizer Gyro scene wasn't that massive that I knew of but I do know where you can get the decent wheels, wide and crazy. Search for the name on the 2 right pictures below on Facebook. He's a Filipino dude shacked up with a Thai bird. Ships world wide and speaks English. Worth a shot.
    2 points
  16. Sweet whip man. I'm gonna say nay to the roofrack, maybe something lower profile with some curves but with such sweet styling already I wouldn't run one unless I was using it to cart something.
    2 points
  17. Ed, as your self-appointed financial adviser, I strongly suggest you invest in those cams.
    2 points
  18. Set of 193b's sitting in my wardrobe doing nothing at all that would surely be lush.
    2 points
  19. More jobs done. This random looking combo will turn into a duct to feed the air box. It will get cheese cloth draped over it to make a shape like this, then will be coated with resin and chop strand to create the part. Then it'll fit here with a short length of 6" hose and a flange on the air box inlet. Did a bit more folding too. The radiator and inlet ducting it almost finished. Still needs the endplate done for the filter end. Gave it a test fit with the guards on. Still need to trim the new part on the bonnet.
    2 points
  20. I cannot put into words, how jaulous I am of your trinkets.
    2 points
  21. Bead blasting things yourself is all well and good, but you need an air compressor that can keep up and it can take a bit of time. I saw a guy (Brent) advertising his vapour blasting business on here and thought I'd give that a go. and I tell you what, it's the way to go, paying someone to clean up your mess is just so easy. So the two shitty carbs got his treatment, you can see the before and after here. This has presented a problem though, as the Carb I originally bead blasted myself has a slightly duller finish than the Vapour basted ones, so it will be coming apart tomorrow to get vapour basted, hopefully it comes out looking similar. Kind of hard to tell the differnet in the photo of all 3 lined up, the one on the right being #1, It is duller than the other 2 in person Anyway, If you have grubby stuff that you don't want grubby anymore, I 100% recommend throwing it at Brent http://vapourblastingnz.co.nz/
    2 points
  22. cool, I'll carry on then. So CAD is a prick of a thing if you are a hobbyist, everyone wants $4.2 million for a licence for a legitimate copy of some software. I was watching a youtube video by ICON 4x4 (go check them out, they build some fancy FJ40s) where he mentioned a free CAD software called Fusion 360, I did a google then downloaded it. Since then I've started to dabble in working out how to use it, which for someone who has no prior knowledge in design work is a bit of a learning curve, Youtube videos to the rescue. After much mincing about I managed to draw a thing, well, a series of things, taking the measurements off one of the intake port gaskets. This is where I need to make honorary mention of Ned, he has the ability to make your drawing turn into an actual thing. I send him a copy of the file and the next day I get a text saying he has some things for me. 3D Printed out of PLA, whatever that is, some kind of plastic. If that isn't amazing enough, lo and behold, the things fit. The stud holes aren't quite in the right place, they're a couple of mm to close to each other, nothing a quick file can't fix though. The other flange shown above lined up perfectly with the bottom of the Weber. At this point I think I am the bees knees.
    2 points
  23. Can a Jag V12 fit on your coffee table while still leaving room for the coffee?
    2 points
  24. Overdue an update! Wasn't happy with the engine mount setup I had. The A-series to K-series mount adaptors I got came with some rubber mounts that were gradually deforming just having had the weight of the engine on them, not even put any torque through them yet. Grabbed some Landy v8 ones from ebay as they were the same depth but much more solid, see?; Next on the list was brakes. Car should have a decent amount of go, so wanted some stop to match. Plumped for the MRP kit http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/kp61-starlet-big-brake-kit/ rather than faff around with building something up myself, the KP has a weird system where an offset disk bolts to the back of the hub, bugger mucking about with that. Plus these are pimppppp; Old: New: Only pain with them is I specifically ordered a setup to fit behind 13" wheels and they don't fit behind my 13" wheels. The WORKs have an indented lip on the inside barrel that interferes with the caliper. Got some 25mm bolt on spacers to help with clearance, but definitely going to need some serious arch tickling with them on. Problem for future me. One job I've been putting off for ages is finishing the dash wiring. Bit the bullet today and sorted it; Now have working oil pressure warning light, charge light, and check engine light. Pleased. Hate getting my head around this sort of thing - ended up bringing in a fused common 12v IGN feed to the back of the gauge to run the new circuits through, since they use a switched earth to complete the light circuit rather than the common earth arrangement that the stock starlet dash uses. I've got a nice custom 10k RPM tacho setup coming that will also tee off of that IGN, so saved myself some work there too. Left on the to-do list in my head: -Wire in new tacho when it arrives -Finish fan switch setup (waiting on a part), fit rad and fans back in, fill with coolant -Fill and bleed brakes -Gearbox and diff oil -Fit spacers and front wheels, roll arches -Clean and refit interior -Refit front panels and fender mirrors -Check all suspension and brake bolts are tight ..think that's about it? Sweet
    2 points
  25. 2 points
  26. Started tinkering again the other night checking everything again when i discovered abit of moisture inside the dizzy cap and also inside the dizzy was pretty dirty n scummy so i gave it a good clean started her up.. the good news is i think that may have been the problem? I a made sure everything was plugged in properly in regards to the wiring n plugs. Unfortunately when testing the radiator must have sprung a leak and water started to appear squirting out of radiator bummer! But i guess atleast its good it happened now than when im driving down unaware! Buggar. Apparently it wasn't so great in traffic anyway. I had a quote of 650 odd dollars for a re core so looks like ill be going alloy which is alot cheaper. I won some pretty sweet retro carpet so went down to tauranga and picked it up In the end i decided to carpet the floor and ceiling for that blast from the past luxurious lounge spec cruising. I rather like it. Step into my office Discuss. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36619-daves-prince-b200/
    2 points
  27. Banter here, //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54510-kelvins-1985-rover-sd1-banter/ Hi everyone. Long time reader, first time poster. I have this thread posted on a couple of others, and thought it might be of interest to some members here. This thread will begin at the start, way back in.... November, last year and end at current day. So, about 10 years ago I had an SD1, an 85 Vanden Plas EFI in Cashmere Gold. Sadly i sold it because i couldnt afford to run it as my daily back then, and have regretted selling it since. Anyway, yesterday i picked the new toy up. Its a 1985 Rover SD1 Vanden Plas EFI (again), but in Zircon Blue. It needs some love, but its got good bones. It runs and drives, and actually drives really well. The powerhouse So the plan is to give it a really good tidy up, get it in as good condition as i can, but also build a new engine wiring harness and install my Speeduino ECU. Early next year i intend to use the car as my wedding car, so the clock is ticking! Theres more info on the car on my website too. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/cars/rover-sd1-two/
    1 point
  28. Sweet trike. My parents have an even older version where the rims and tyres are one piece. Think about 4 inch rims with really big balloons moulded onto them. Rode it all the time when we were kids and noone died or even got hurt. It floated too so was fun in the creek Just googled and found out what it is. I must go save it now
    1 point
  29. Definitely check out your earth's, funny things can happen when the solenoid is on the body of the car. I assume that the negative battery lead is connected to the engine block. You may need a grunty earth strap between the engine and body. The one on my car is fairly heavy for this exact reason.
    1 point
  30. Yeah mate did that before i took apart - all the spring mechanisms and brushes were in good working order. The problem i think i have is "heat soak" which is the exhaust too close to starter heating it up past what its suppose to causing it to not work. Will confirm once i try tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Maybe replace earth wire but will check resistance tomorrow. Cheers mate
    1 point
  31. @Shakotom It's a 2004 SJ50QT, the pipe is a Sepia ZZ expansion chamber, from memory it tops out about 65 with me on it, easy enough to add a CDI and variator to bump the top speed up if wanted. Still stock CDI and carb etc just upjetted a couple sizes. Was in daily use until early February when it was replaced with an AZ50. I had it running earlier tonight, started up fine, has been known to be a touch temperamental to start when it's been sitting and smokes a LOT for a few minutes, I'm pretty sure that's just a case of the check-valve between the oil pump and the inlet letting oil past and it's pooling up in the crankcase, I've got another pump and bits here just never got around to swapping it over. Have got a Sepia ZZ disk brake front end that needs the brakes looked at and other bits that can go with it.
    1 point
  32. ECU pin will be labeled "SPD" (not VSS) http://alflash.com.ua/RX/Acronyms.pdf @Seedy Al
    1 point
  33. Jag V12 was designed to handle 8000rpm with 4 valve heads, iirc 2 valve heads max out at about 7000rpm.
    1 point
  34. Took it to east tamaki for a ride around to run it in a bit Now does 71kph flat out. Hopefully the new rollers turn up this week and that should make it accelerate better-it kind of goes good at first, then bogs down while the cvt changes ratio, then accelerates again once it can gain rpm again Also it's a bit Harley Davidson in the corners, doesn't take much for the exhaust/ side stand to touch down
    1 point
  35. That is such a fantastic collection of death machines, how do you even come across a load like that?
    1 point
  36. I now own this beast! Can't find the original build thread. Thinking it maybe in the guest erra? Looking forward to getting it low on some wide 14s with an engine upgrade also!
    1 point
  37. I'd be lying if I said I haven't :-). If i put my feet on the bumper and push pedals with my hands...oh and look so cool at the same time, it can be done :-).
    1 point
  38. They could he H120 Rapier wheels, or they could be Dunlop Rostyles.
    1 point
  39. Rover passed its warrant, excellent. Heres to another 6 months of motoring.
    1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. I've fixed the first post so the pictures actually work now. I've put the radiator support panel on and started bolting everything up. I thought I probably should turn it over since its been sitting for so long. With glens help I chucked the battery cables on and it fired up with a good dose of ether. Thats probably going to be all I do on it for the next few months
    1 point
  42. Progress! Pulled this be front off the car and removed radiator ect to clear up some space. Have unhooked everything on the motor (I think) so it's pretty much ready to pull out. Have removed alternator, intake and a/c since the photo. Might wait for adult supervision to pull the motor out.
    1 point
  43. wheels and lows make it look so much betterer.
    1 point
  44. Got a new car for work to replace the wagon which was getting a bit tired. I told my boss it needed a headlight bulb and a couple of other small things and by the end of the discussion we were looking for a new car I figured I didn't really need a wagon so that made choices a bit easier, I like falcons despite the issues I've had with the wagon, they are big comfortable things that go ok and are pretty cheap, and don't cost much to fix when they do have dramas. When I got the wagon it had already done 240ish kms so I wanted something with more life in it, I looked at a couple of xr6 s but this one was similar money with 125kms and a bit newer, it's an xt which is the basic spec but it was always going to get the wheels off the wagon and some springs anyway so I did that today. Much betterer
    1 point
  45. It gets from A to B Dirt masters training after work around red rocks, good fun it was!!!!
    1 point
  46. Hope this car is still running and the new owners are treating it well such a nice car
    1 point
  47. Hah turns out it was already a 70cc and the new piston makes it 84cc, not 100 cc as advertised I see why people mess around with scooters, had it stripped in 30 min. Found some grey paint that matched ok so painted the bits of frame that were modified The variator rollers were worn with big flat spots so hopefully the new ones make that work better .
    1 point
  48. Just a small update We have Low thanks to 2" lowering springs up front and 2"blocks in the rear.
    1 point
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