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Went back to this possum palace place again, super muddy and slippery. Only one way to get around the place, max rpm. I also mowed their lawn, since im such a good cunt

Im pretty slack at this updating business but ill try fill in the gaps from the last update. After the VIN it passed it WOF, as soon as dad could after that he lowered it. Gotta lower it a bit more in the front still. We made it to Hawkes Boes 2014 however had a few issues whilst out and about and ended up having to leave it at dads not even half way through the weekend. On the cruise out to Lake Tutira she over heated and started smoking. Had to drive her gently up the hill to dads, stopping a lot along the way, thank god dads house is on the way to Lake Tutira. With some investigation we found out that the smoke coming into the car was luckily just oil dripping out the breather straight onto the headers. We left it at that for the weekend and once dad had a spare few weeks they took the head off and got that planed and put on a new head gasket hoping this would help fix its issues. They also did other various things however i now cant remember what they were but I also ended up getting the radiator re-cored as it was all blocked up and creating the over heating issues. Hawkes Boes 2015 comes around so i tried again. Get her down to Lees no issues. Then as we get out to the old camp ground (still hadn't fixed the smoking issue) we thought we would give her a check over. Lucky we did this as it turns out she had chewed through all the oil, filled her up again thanks to Lauren and Bizzo. We made the call that she would be all good to continue to use just filling up the oil as we went as it was just overflowing out the breather. On the way to the Mohaka river cruise we ran into some issues. I was driving up the hill, slowly getting hotter however not enough to worry about it at this stage, when all of a sudden I couldn't accelerate up the hill, just lost all power to continue steadily up. Managed to coax her up the hill and have a look, at this stage we had used so much oil its not funny and she had over heated again. The call was made to let her cool down and turn around and take her home to dads, and continue on with the weekend in a reliable car (again). After Hawkes Boes 2015 we tested the compression which came at low in a couple of cylinders. We found out the oil issue was related to the crank case pressurizing and ejecting all its oil. Dad pulled the head off again and after inspection we made the call to rebuild the motor. Queens birthday just been we went up to dads to help take the motor out. Motor successfully removed, has now been acid dipped and is awaiting parts. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/39707-baby-ks-1957-ford-prefect/page-2

Here's a notch taken out of the chassis rail/crossmember to assist with exhaust clearance. And a small amount of rust at the back of the r/h sill/inner rear wheel arch. And another small amount of rust in the spare wheel well. Picture of the stripped back under carriage. We will be plating up the rust, etch priming, seam seal, primer, underseal and throw on some satin black to tidy things up. Hopefully will have it all done by next weekend but will see how things go. Cheers Tai

Hah, fat chance old man! Work got a little interesting in the last month... Bossman bought a Lotus T125 (google it, its cool). Actually, he didn't buy just one, he bought the complete defunct Lotus project, lock, stock and two huge fucking smoking barrels in the form of 40-foot containers, that then arrived, with said project contained within. Things at work are therefore a little busy, and haven't left me much time/motivation to tear further into the 7. We got one semi-complete rolling car, but it had no plumbing, or electrical system whatsoever... I run the Electron Management Department at work, so I've had to spend the last month trawling through Lotus documentation (which is SHOCKINGLY appalling / completely absent, by the way) figuring out their initial design intentions, which pieces of the puzzle we have, and getting the rest of the bits on the way... Then actually assembling the electrical system and building the wiring harness in a way that will keep the smoke on the inside. Massive challenge, massive fun, massive time-sink. I'm the fat one. But, in the evenings when I finally do get home, I wrote up a plan of the minimum I really need to do to get the car back and running it's finest: Rear suspension pillowballs. Re-seal the sump. Replace / rebuild the turbos. Replace all the injector seals. Replace the headunit with a factory cd-player from an NB MX5, for that factory clean look. Wire up the airbag on the NB MX5 Nardi wheel I've installed (again, for that factory look). Build a new wiring harness. I've started by removing the turbos. No real damage to them, just a bit of shaft play and obviously pretty leaky. If anyone ever asks you to come help them remove the turbos from their FD RX7, with the motor still in the car, you go tell them to fuck themselves, right in the ear. What a cunt of a job. Additionally, even more annoying, as I'll pull the motor to re-seal the sump anyway, so the struggling was completely moot. Pricing up rebuild kits for the Hitachi HT12 turbos on the FD was a little frustrating, as the RX7 versions of these turbos don't use a dynamic piston ring seal on the compressor side, they use a friction carbon seal. Makes bits harder to find, and ass-puckeringly expensive. I'm going to try something cheaper (and cooler) first. A buddy had a stuffed pair of R32 GTR T28 turbos kicking about that had both spat their ceramic turbine wheels. I pulled them apart, and there isn't really much else wrong with them, so I have a plan to rebuild the cores with some new bits, and try to cludge them into the factory RX7 exhaust and compressor housings. I ali-expressed some rebuild kits, replacement steel turbine wheels and some fancy billet compressor wheels. I did a lot of boring staring the compressor and turbine wheel maps, figuring out that, yeah, all the sizings should be in the ballpark for some increased efficiency at slightly higher than stock boost levels. We've got a CNC lathe at work which I've been getting rather intimate with... It uses a pretty orphan controller (Anilam), which I've gotten to know pretty well, as I had to write the post-processor our CAM software then uses to output G-Code which will make things not crash into one another. It's all working pretty sweetly now, and was a great learning experience. I'll use that to both measure the profiles of the curves of the compressor and turbine wheels, then machine the housings to match. Simple in theory, but as I'm quickly learning, fixturing this shit so its actually possible to machine is a real ball-ache. Also, we don't have a 4-jaw, so I'm not 100% on how I'm going to get everything completely concentric, but some custom fixturing devices will be made and I'll see how far I can get. Replacement GT28 wheels(Compressor 49.70 / 67.40mm, Turbine 46.95 / 53mm), Hitachi CHRA bottom right, Garrett T28 CHRA bottom left. Then I did some more googling and it turns out a place already does almost exactly this modification and calls them the BNR Stage 3's. Damn, I thought I was being cool and original. Still I'm only into the modification for around $180, so if I can make it work it'll be pretty sweet .

It was a quiet meet but still enjoyable as always. Belgrove Tavern's outside area is really quite surprising and cool. The wedges were delicious and well priced but they do need to up their coffee game. Thepog took me for a quick fang in his father's XKR which went well, felt great on the road and sounded amazing! But I do wonder how many engineers/hours it took to get that note just right. Not oldschool but tolerated because supercharger I actually missed Alex's post that he wasn't coming and we waited around in case any other Motueka people arrived. Then the e30 Alpina (one of 2 in the country), the lancer and the shitty e30 took off for a lovely cruise through the countryside. This quickly turned into e30 vs e30 countryside hooning,which was just awesome. Although the Alpina was winning the whole time... Pics! Chur!

Pretty sure you have to remove the ash tray at the bottom and there are two screws under there. But I could very much be wrong. Have you considered Google

Awesome stuff Zac and I am truly glad you have found your real vocation in life. But I do think you need to step back just a bit and take a look at the elephant in the room. Your turbo FD thingee is going in the wrong direction. If you are to properly modify your car in the real kiwi way you know you have to remove the hairdryers, give the plates some mean as drill ports, fit a Nikki with mechanical secondries and a set of gillies. Then take it to work and show them white coat wearing boffins how a proper car goes hard. For what it is.

Bright and early this morning, time to piss off the neighbors (one set of which truly deserves it). I went around and cleaned up where i was going to cut, easier to do it now with a flattish surface.. Some extra tasty swiss cheese. Then I got to cutting using a bit of 50x25 sitting on the gutter as a guide; Then I propped up one side and got the forklift hard up against the bus, and lifted it off.... At this point I cackled quite a lot. I can stand up in it now. The lip left below my cut held quite a bit of that cheesy goodness, so I cut it off where applicable - this got rid of 95% of the grot; Then I took most of the windows out as I reckoned it would be less chance of getting damaged. I had to drill out some screws, the last screw popped through, knocked the window which fell out onto the concrete Rather fortunately nothing broke, altho the frame is a bit bent, but whatevs, stoked. Then I bought it inside the workshop and rust converted everything I could see. I cannot help but wish that I was turning this into a sweet ute.... Also the edge of that bit of roof left had been repaired in the time honored fashion; 2014 was a good year for soggy newspaper and bog filling materials :) I thought I had better leave the rust converter to do it's thing so that's it for the day.

So just got word that she PASSED!!!! Finally re vinned, roll on hawkes boes

Just a quick little update. Just been talking to dad who took her for a drive today getting it ready for Monday when it goes in for vinning. Unfortunately he said the brakes are not amazing but will work on them. Fingers still crossed to have her all legal and at hawkes boes.

So its been awhile but I went up to dads yesterday and took her for a drive. Hadn't been started since last time I was there (ages ago) but she ran well once we found a battery that had enough juice. Dad tried to take her for a VIN but the fuel pump shat itself on the way in, now she has a new fuel pump and handbrake cable. Dad said he will take her into town for a VIN and drive her to work to get some k's under her belt. Hopefully she doesnt break down on the way like last time and passes and is all legal for Hawke's Boes.

So this is all sorted for a vin now, hopefully get it in this week, also spent the day flatting and buffing it, then put on a couple of coats of wax, came up pretty good. Also while we were in the states last month we picked up a set of braided leads for it, looks a lot nicer than the in your face red ones.

We had some issues with the lights, small job ended up turn into a nightmare. But she is now rocking new sealed head lamps and all new bulbs and a few new lenses. The seals were stuffed so had to make up some new ones. The brakes have also been pulled apart and rebuilt with new lines put in, after Dad remembered were he put every little piece. They pull up pretty good for 57 drums all round. After it gets its re-vin and warrant, we'll start looking into lowering her and a few other little things

Its currently needs re-vinning, then in for a wof. It was pretty leaky on a rainy day, so we got new window rubbers and fitted them to sort the leaks as it was living outside at the time. I sanded back the floor and applied rust kill, then painted the whole floor multiple times, the underneath was done with underseal, after a few rust patches were welded in by JasonK The interior was in pretty good condition, however the hood lining is a bit rotten and the carpets were beyond salvageable, so I just covered the tunnel in red vinyl and used house carpet to recover it.

In completion of my AE86 project (which has been promoted to my 'Sunday Fun-day car, this is a very high rank) I have bought myself a pre-facelift KE25... for some reason. Have scored myself so far, KE20 1200 HI-Delux front guards, bonnet (not pictured) and grill setup from Japan TE27 Trueno rear tail lights from Japan 4k and K40 locally Going back to a K series engine but will probably upgrade to a K50. Barely any rust overall which is sound. Bit behind the rear tail lights but for a novice like me should be pretty easy as it's all flat in that area. Pretty keen to get this panel and primed myself (learn along the way), take it to somewhere in a booth to get exterior done properly. I predict that this will be a 2+ year long project, but looking forward to it none the less! Big thanks to Olds Cool Autos for supplying 90% of everything, including the shell.\ Discussion thread here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

So i've given up on cars (hard to do when over the last 33 years i've owned 207 lol) and decided to get back into doing up bikes. Don't care what bikes, be it pushie, moped or full size. Have been looking for a "project" for a couple of weeks with some interesting finds (which still may end up in my shed much to swmbo's disgust haha) So, this morning i check FB and on one of the local free pages this thing popped up, and even better it was only ten k's away. Haven't decided on final plans but it will be re-powered with something between 150cc & 200cc.

Personally I'd just be stoked to have a fezza in the first instance.

Jack the back and fit a nine inch

Just get air shocks.

I llliiiiike it!!

More progress on the 1300... It's now sitting in etch primer and awaiting seam sealer, filler primer and then top coats. Sorry about spamming up with boring pics but everyone loves pics haha.

Take out the glove box. There is a 10mm bolt on the side of the radio. Edit; what he said.

Yeah YouTube is your best bet, you need to remove the glove box and take out a bolt too

Fixed!

Nah. It's still just 2.5 sohc. Need dem twin cams!

Time to revive this thread. Plans changed. So i was going to re-power this with the 110cc outa the mini dirt bike, but it's physically too big. Next was put in a 49cc from a pocket bike, but to line everything up properly would've had the motor too far off centre. Then the plan was to make it a "proper" bicycle by welding a crank-case into it. Finally i decided on a plan. Awhile ago i bought a chopped up NSU Quickly from Manu (well it very briefly passed through his hands lol) that came with a motor that had a "gearbox issue" but had a load of "parts". I thought 'why not combine the two'. So i bit the bullet and cut the Gadabout frame up to mount the NSU motor mount. Trial fit. Yep, that'll do. Welded and checking alignment. Pulled motor apart, and..................Well there's ya problem. Unfortunately the wayward bits of ring & piston took out a large chunk of 3 out of 4 ports on there way past. BUT, i do happen to have a good barrel & piston that were in the parts that came with the NSU mini bike. Monday mornings mission is to get new bearings and seals (readily available locally) then slap motor back together.

Still accumulating a few things. -The matching bonnet is on the way (TE27 sprinter) -The grill support/radiator support panel is on the way. The sprinter version which varies from the Levin and Corolla range. Quite the steal. -TE27 levin boot (just in better condition than the one I have currently). Though I will try find a sprinter badge to match the front guards. The car will also be painted this blue/turquoise colour. It is an original Toyota colour but will have to somehow find the paint code for it. We also have a small port 4A-GE which I have been kitting out with my RWD specific partrs today. I will either be putting it in this KE25 or my KE20, still undecided. Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

It aint for driving bruv... its for looking like a cock.

That fucking rules tbh. Haha.

Maybe it's dotcoms car and he hasn't got out yet?

Oh dear. Why the fuck do people do such shitty stance shit shit with great cars It looks fucking terrible.

Whoops dont know how i turned it upside down but ohwell lol other things i have done are: put in rear seatbelts (all factory mounting points are there under the seat) lowered it with cobra lowering springs 15x7 on front and 15x8 on the rear new shocks all around as the springs made it un-captive retro fitted some fusion 4" in the rear speaker boxes (look factory) pulled the factory radio out and put a bluetooth and aux adapter in the back (can now bluetooth from phone to original radio) front mounted oil cooler tinted the inner headlights yellow so not too much but am now debating if i now put a 4g54 (2.6L) or i put a 4g63t all set up for rwd, easy would be 4g54 but fun would be 4g63t. any way here is the latest photo i have

Brain: Hey get another project Me: Nah got 3 other cars to waste time and money on. Brain: go on, its a wagon. Me: naaaah... Brain: ahhhhh go oooonnn. Me: ok Here it is, a somewhat neglected GX60 wagon with a very sad, oil leaking 1G-EU power house The poor 1G is hemorrhaging oils from every oriface at an alarming rate. Thankfully the car came with a spare engine. So this lucky 1G will be receiving new oil seals, gaskets and water pump etc. + = Why the fuck am i even trying to make this lump look good?? Anyway that is it for now. I will leave you with this artists impression of the wagons near future. Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48689-be4vers-gx60-wagon-discussion/

low!

Since I have listed the Ducati for sale, I have been thinking I should get this a bit more sorted and take it to Nelson with me. I dragged it out of the shed today. Poor old thing has been gathering dust for a while, the chrome on the guard and pipe is looking a bit sad so I'll take it to work and see if one of the SS polishers can give it a tickle. The switch & relay ignition set up that I mentioned further up the page just runs off a switch hidden under the seat. It works great but its not exactly thief proof. So I pulled apart the old key ignition to check why it had stopped working. Corrosion! I was getting like 150 Ohms across it with the multimeter, that will do it. So gave it all a polish and sealed it back up again. Should work mint now, good continuity. Next thing will be the front brake, the master cylinder has been weeping as evidence by the paint stripper effect all over the lever. So I will start looking for a better brake to adapt to it.

If sheepers cant find it - I may be able to help

i think i have another one somewhere….. also if you can drop your off about this time next year and give me about 30k to get started ill get stuck into it. that should net me about 16$ an hour.

Oh. That was like 15 years ago and the doctor had put his finger in my bum before I went to see it at the movies so the main thing I remember about F&F is the weird feeling of having a wet lubed bum that doesn't go away by wiping it with toilet paper and farts that don't make any sound.

Motronic system exhaust?

I thought this was cute. A Motronic for each bank. Such technology!

+1, horrible bloody things. We've seen a couple at work.

I would greatly appreciate it if the fuckwits bringing these pieces of shit into the country were shot in the face.Fuck these cars are the biggest ballaches to deal with.

And another thanks to Archetype for another sticker I got made up for the doors; And was getting a bit sick of the bouncy cut springs, plus it'll be WOF time again before I know it, so figured now's a good time to properly sort a few suspension bits n pieces. These are the cuts (1 front and 1 rear) vs the standard height springs, will be taking these to Archers and get them to make something up about the cut height Got the struts out, will have to trim down the front bump stops a bit, as the cut spring height was pretty much on the bump stops Sourced some new shocks from Autostop, ended up being quite a bit cheaper than all the other suspension places I tried. Never heard of VST before, but oh well, almost half the price of Munro shocks so based on price along, I'm sure they'll be great! And while I was under there, I had a check of a few of the bushes, will probably end up replacing a few if not all of them. I also noticed that the passenger side control arm looks like its taken a hit. Nothing else under or around here looks like it's been repaired or twisted, so maybe it just wacked a rock or something once. Will source a 2nd hand one from somewhere and swap this out. Discussion thread; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/50482-oldrx7s-1981-mazda-626-discussion/#entry1603115

Oh yeh, this thing is the tits. Loaded it to the rafters (and beyond) and went for a hoon up, in and around your mums face/the coromandel. Didnt liek sitting int he rain for a week without moving (moisture in the dizzy cap), and some of my didgy wiring came back to haunt me. other than that no dramas at all.

Kapow. This is some next level shit if I do say so myself. Still needs finishing touches but you get the idea. Main box area will be cladded and need a few more slats for the top. Top hinges up for storage underneath, and plenty off room down the side for hauling bikes etc. When its party time, the top slides out to reveal double bed. Matress will be split down the middle but still atatched so it will just fold in half.

*******WARNING******* This post contains coarse language Despite all consuming thoughts I've been having to burn this shit heap thing to the ground I've been making some progress. The last two months have had thier up n downs with this. Not long after my last post i decided to pull the pin on this 1g and bought another low kms one off a member and another gc brought it up here from duniden. CBF touching it / wasting time / spending more money on another 1g i decided to just leave it and chuck it straight in as is. In it goes. now is about the time i realise there are a few subtle differences between the 1ge and 1geu. like this; and this; and some plugs and the oxygen sensors etc also i discover this. Whatever, thats fine :/ Now with that shit all sorted and everything plumbed up etc ..... its time to fire it up again right? wrong. Some scumy fuck has stolen my petrol. Again!!! Whatever, got more petrol the next day and fire it up. It ran good for a minute or so then starts missing really bad and wont idle, i can hold about 5k revs on it and it sounds ok. So i take it around the block to blow it out and it dies and wont start again After looking around for a problem i discover the back of the oil cap has gone all milky looking. WTF No. Not this shit again. The curse of the 1g Threw my toys, pack shit up and give up for the day. Under closer inspection the oil seems to smell a lot like petrol. Hmmm?? As it turns out, lots of fuel in your oil makes it look a lot like it does when there is water in it! who knew..... not me. So why the hell is it putting so dam much fuel into the engine??? I then discover the fuel return line is completely blocked and the pressure is getting so great that there is fuel squirting out past the hose clamps on the rubber lines. AH HA, that will be the cause of the issue! NOPE! did not fix the problem. Different oxygen sensors? nope The coils are different. is it the coils? nah! I checked the resistance of the 1ge injectors and they are slightly different to the other 1geu ones. So i changed them over aaaaaand it made no difference. God dam it! What else? a bung temp sensor? swapped and tested all the temp sensors. Not that! Removed and checked the cold start injector. That is fine. That only leaves two things, the ECU or the airflow meter. Now i have no way of testing either of these so i give up for a couple weeks. Which brings us to today. I took the AFM off to take and compare to my 1ggeu one and maybe try that in there. That's when i realize that the fucking flap inside it is stuck at about 3/4 of the way open! Well that will sure as hell cause a shit load of fuel to be injected unnecessarily won't it!! Nasty Its now that i realize there was possibly not much wrong with the last engine i just took out, and the fact that the compression tested good amplifies the fact that it was just doing the same dam thing this has been doing. Anyway! i put the afm back together after I regreased the rusty bearing and gave it a good clean up. Start it up and WOOOOOOO success!! it idles and revs smoothly. Finally! So i take it for a hoon around the block and it dies. Out of fuel. Who the fuck is stealing my petrol!! I feel actually feel sorry for people who are scummy enough to have to steal peoples fuel. The price of meth must be going up or something. So with all that behind me i can now make some dam progress!

a couple of pics taken by OS'er GC GomaxGo [url=http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/Matt_Field/media/6_zpsb91622f4.jpg.html][/ URL] discuss here ---> //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36371-toy-mota-1974-toyota-landcruiser/