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Well it fired up last night for the first time in over a year, only been static timed but seems to run ok. No leaks so far, but it is early days and British after all... Went round the block a few times and pretty pleased with how it feels even though the brakes need to bed in and the alignment is fucked. I'll get that done next week but first it's off to get a little bit of welding done on the exhaust.

Did some patches on this last night.. started by trying to pull the dent out of the rear pass guard.. since it was a crease and I can't get to the back of it I welded some threaded rod into the crease and other areas, when I discovered, *sigh, thanks to gasmith again that it had very thin steel around here hence blowouts.. should've just cut the whole lot out.. My mini slide hammer, This bit was particularly thin thanks to the seam sealer, so I cut it out. Pretty ugg, but I'll skim it with love Did the puncture as well.. I'll do some more tonight..

I got a bit of time to mess around doing some landscaping in the weekend. I also managed to get the basement closed in. UJ are happy TBH And there was even time to waterblast all the mud off the floor. Please forgive the poor photo. It was taken tonight under the FUCKING AWESOME lights... but the generator is now playing up so I've hauled it down to the workshop. I'll take a look at it Thursday

not much has been happening with this car. i have been using it now and again. had been going really well. i had needed to re bush the drop spindle as it had gone egg shape. so i had done that and while that was out my mate joel the jew wanted to steel my shape of my extended shock towers. so we ended up making 4 new longer ones so i could go a bit lower than before hand. ended up something like this i think a full tank of gas and i think itl lay frame. drove it out side like this and my god it caught on a lot of things and i have 0 steering like this also. i had realized i had a bit of space in the rear so i ordered some wider barrels about 6 weeks ago also. they arrived last week some time 8s this time round. i was speaking to a mate the other day about upholstery and he said he wanted his truck done and i said i wanted my floors raised...... so we now are getting what we both want. will probably drop the vw out there tomorrow while he is on night shift and let him go to town on it. some are probably asking what you mean raising your floor? well like this where you can see the ground well the floor drops down about 2 inches and catches on everything. so going to make it a flat pan. should make the life of low a bit easier

my inlet ports bring all the boys to the yard

Cant find any challenging 4wd tracks? put some near bald road tyres on.. featuring nosy ginger cows:

Tarmac Rally Prep Part 2 Wheel alignment and suspension setups ready for Taupo

Go and get some bananas. Sure thing!

Pretty stoked

still had the dirty lpg tank in the boot (the bomb) so went to open the vent to let the gas out ended up taking about an hr or so and it was still going ended up taking the gage of the tank was under quite some pressure still and it still took 10 minutes to empty it all out. id say the tank was close to being full and last time it was on the road was 1989 so been in there awhile

its had the cert inspection and it failed on a couple of little things which I've remedied. Clint has re-checked it and its all done so the cert is sorted. I've been doing little jobs here and there but nothing exciting the only thing i took a photo of is the badges. I've got all the badges for it now I'm just waiting on the last one to turn up from the states. 2016-06-06_03-42-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-06_03-36-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-06_03-17-49 by sheepers, on Flickr

Well it's mobile again... Since I last drove it it has been converted to IRS, fitted a new gearbox, a new return fuel system, disk brakes on the front, bigger drums on the back a sway bar, special custom camber link pin bushes, and a new exhaust system. still not finished, still have a fuel leak to sort out, which is proving trick as it seems to only occur under boost. However the new box seems a lot stouter than the old and has survived a couple of runs under boost so far. Also sits higher in the back than I want, either have to cut the current spring plates or sort some dropped IRS plates...

black light's off limits at my place, damn thing would light up like a beacon

Still need to rebuild the dizzy, do something with the exhaust, and sort the brake servo and master cylinder for the brake and clutch. Plus a whole lot of other small shit. At least it's on 4 wheels for the first time in a year...

She's a runner! Managed to get the rotary started Saturday morning with a battery drill and some fuel, carb possibly needs attention as it seemed to be over fueling a bit and pissing out the front of carb

Time to confiscate his springs

This is me and Wifeys wedding anniversary so it's gonna be a hella romantic burger date

Tarmac Rally Prep Part 3 Sticker Time Numbers , Names and Alan Mann Racing Decal And Big Thanks to my sponsor Jetblast - Air blast technology for sorting out all my stickers and making my car look so good

Did you forget to install two of the strokes in the engine?

Wire wideband in with fuel pump, so its only running when the car is running. My ignition is powered by the same signal, not sure about yours, might be on the key, which is no good for the WB if you spend a lot of time twiddling things before firing up the car

Beams motors have bigger valves

Back together and running. Motor doesn't tic so much since filming, reset the tappets. They take a 0.05mm gap! Tiny. Can't seem to get the carb to lean out, the plugs get quite wet on all settings.

You can use normal diodes and make a discrete bridge but check the current rating of the diodes carefully . The bus capacitors in the welder are normally what causes diodes to fail.once one fails then they will all go. Use standard recovery diodes about 70 amps and around1600 volts. That's because of the inrush current. Use a good heat sink and make sure you remain within the ambient temperature range . They are the same type of diodes as used in automotive alternators Good lucj

Tarmac Rally Prep Part 1 Underbody protection and mud flaps Fitting the chrome strip at last

I did, had a recheck yesterday he was happy as with it. Just bought it off Tradme was $30 for 3 feet of 1/2" i think. i just cut it so it wasnt a sleeve anymore and just cable tied it on lol. Any brake lines within 100mm has to be shielded

Almost there!

I run a LC2 with what ever bosh sensor that comes in the kit and that turns on with ignition ON. Because of this I'm pretty careful not to leave the key on and the car not running though, if I do I'll turn it off and leave it for a bit before starting the car. Have had the same sensor in the car for about two years now.

dave try a ego ntk wide band sensor,from ngk mines lasted for 6 years so far ,before this i was using the bosch 4.2 which lasted 3 months ,also std wide bands should go just after the 2 merge into 1 for your lambda bung ,also with the heater wide band ,we start car and let the wide band warm up ,,,should be up to it about 3 mins after car starts

Back when the innovate forums existed and were good. the original guys who designed the innovate gear used to post alot. One of the things they always said was to delay turning the wideband by X amount seconds, after cold engine start up. X being i cant remember, 15-30 seconds possibly. pretty much all the sensors ive stuffed have been due to vibration, using exhaust probe in peoples crappily mounted exhausts. other than one that was junk right from the start. current one has lasted ages. delaying turn on time and only using in bung in collector & post turbo. at correct angles. i only use for tuning and remove though.

ride it till the smoke goes away /is it all oil smoke?

dont you pay them no nevermind! if you love riding trikes, ride em hard and fast. like me

Soooooo I have tried two seperate mounting locations for the sensor (one exposed into flow, one with just the tip flush with edge of exhaust pipe) Two seperate controllers (Innovate LC-2 and Aim LCU-one) And just burned through my 4th wideband sensor. (1x Bosch 4.2 which lasted the longest, 3x Bosch 4.9) Getting pretty frustrating! The only thing left that I can think of that's causing issues is having the wideband switch on with ignition key rather than when motor starts. The Aim LCUone has some good feedback data about the sensor, it isnt the heater circuit failing, and at WOT, the sensor isnt overheating either. So I'm starting to think that thermal shock is the next likely suspect down the chain. I saw this site: http://wbo2.com/lsu/cases.htm Time to chop the casings off my dud sensors and see what's going on. Rather than crappy information from the WB controller companies I also found a spec sheet for the Bosch sensor from Bosch. Here it notes to never have the sensor running prior to engine starting, so that's probably where I've been going wrong. As another kick in the balls, I bought the analog version of the LCUone because I thought Link couldnt read the wideband through CAN. Then that same day it turns up I was watching an HPacademy webinar where Andre says CAN is way better because you dont get voltage offsets etc giving inaccuracies, and that it works great on Link. Blargh!

If not, we can tang there instead if you is keen.

if its just a single skin, and you are not weakening it, i cant see a problem with that

Inferior diodes often found in cheaper range of mig welders are prone to failure. Once one blows the rest will follow rapidly. Why? Because the type of diodes fitted in the bridge rectifier are linked together so that the sum of all of the diodes covers the amps and voltage generated by welding with the machine. These press fit diodes are the same as used in vehicle alternators. Obviously installing these enables the welders to be sold at the lower end of the market and for a while they hold out but inevitably fail. The diodes are installed in a heat sink made from aluminium. and install new Standard Recovery Vishay 70 amp 1600 volt diodes that collectively exceed the workload of these welders and provide a more robust machine with the ability to work at the lower end of the welding scale as well as the higher end with ease.

It's still not worth the effort steeb.

Oh hang on.. yes.. it's coming back to me.. my past boy racer days back in Blenheim with the young solo mums and spotty teenage girls throwing themselves in a drunken state at my mates rotaries. Yes.. rotary hoes...

Mustang, Mustang, Mustang, Canam, Trike

Run with tubes they will be fine some people put talc in there too

Finally got round to stripping the servo and master cylinders, repainting them and throwing in new overhaul kits. I'd been putting these off for a while but they turned out pretty easy to do and now I know that they'll give good service for at least a few years...

I have my hilux diff getting the rx2 brackets welded on at the moment and then I will have the axles re splined and cut. I'm having to re drill the hub 4x110 as well as the new s5 rx7 brakes and have the hub centre turned down on a lathe so I can fit and locate my Simmons. Bosch 044 fuel pump purchased the other day too. Arches done inner and outer - just needs to be tidied up and painted in the similar colour to the body. Plates are all skimmed and now I have to have the rotating assembly balanced AGAIN due to the new rotors.... Struts ready in a couple of weeks and I hope to have it rolling as soon as I get the shell back.

So keen to see/hear this motor go

ol snaggletooth

So I've got the engine and front suspension back in and have been going over all the little half finished bits and sorting them as I go. The engine and gearbox went in easy already assembled together and with cross members already attached from underneath. Front suspension went in after that as a whole unit too. It only took an hour to get everything back in by myself and I pretty much forgot to take any pictures as I went...

I spy an Alan Mann coloured Escort

kk i painted my rims......... and then stuck my hub caps on kumeu this weekend

So i pulled the leaves out of the front. looked like they were around the wrong way. as drivers side had more curve in it. swapped them over, now it leans to the other side even worse haha. might swap them back. hub finally arrived. time to go out and test the new locker.. this is with front locker in and auto locker rear. so all 4 locked. did a couple after this with the front locker disengaged , was far more controllable. so im guessing thats a sign it should be a whole lot better doing 4wd stuff, as well as doing helis like a munta