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Useless update. As above, chucked springs in, have settled a bit bit still need a tweak, perhaps a job for the long weekend. Had also become difficult to start in the last month or so, to the point of draining the battery every other time. Is still somewhat difficult to start when jumped so I started with the glow plugs. New battery will follow. Oddly, but correct according to the internet, the front 3 cylinders use one type of plug, the back 3 use a different type. New plugs were all 6.5v, two different types. Made sense. Pulled old plugs, three were the same as the new ones, 3 were 11v plugs. Aha! I thought I had found the issue. Chucked full set of new plugs in. Wouldn't start. Hooked up to another batter, still no go. Hmmmmm. So, I did what I should have done first and look a closer look at the glow circuit. Back 3 plugs have a second power feed which I assume is an after glow circuit, and would make sense as to why the plugs are different. However, in a previous life someone had bypassed the factory glow system and wired up a push button manual glow. Warning bell No.1. This meant after glow circuit was useless so removed it from the plugs. Checked voltage at the plugs, 12v/battery voltage when pressing the glow button. Warning bell number 2. Did the math in my head, 12v into 6.5v does not go. Warning bell number 3. Chucked the 3 11v plugs back in the the car started. So it turns out that most likely only 3 of the plugs were actually working (the 11v ones), and other 3 (6v) were probably fried a long time ago. This makes sense as each time it starts it sounds like its running on a couple of cylinders and takes 5 secs or so for the others to catch on. So to fix I have ordered a full set of 12v plugs from a later model rd28. Fingers crossed this will do the trick, Then I should probably get a new battery, Should have stuck to just cutting the springs really. I am Andrew, aged 27, and that is my story.

Man oh man these lights are good. They take a while to warm up, but they hardly draw any electricity and are going to make a huge difference

made some hub centering rings for the wheels. the front stub axel sticks out a bit and the wheel cap wouldn't fit so i made the front ones with a cap type thingo built in. 2016-05-30_08-46-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-30_09-00-04 by sheepers, on Flickr

chur. haha yeah, i went to japan city for paper light shades with pretty flowers on them, now the lounge is reddish/seduction tone

Finally the car is going again. After spending a couple of hours on Sunday morning rolling around on the wet ground trying to get it done, I had it about 90% finished but couldn't get it done as the previous day a friend of mine was over and was kind enough to push the clutch pedal, dislodging the piston from the slave cylinder. I didn't realise this and spent a good 45 minutes in a lake trying to put it back in, with the rod not budging, only to realise what was going on. Luckily, my good friend Ben came to the rescue that night with a replacement one which I went to pick up. Yesterday afternoon I got back to it and got it back together. The improvement with this flywheel is drastic. I almost couldn't believe what a difference it made, but then it does make sense. The car takes off so much faster than it did before. Anybody with an M30, if you want your car to go faster, I seriously suggest you track down a single mass flywheel, no matter the cost. It's well worth it. Over the next couple of days I have a few small jobs to do on it like replace the front bumper and some small engine related stuff. I'm just glad it's going.

long time no thread.. had the inspector around today and he said this shit's legit, compliance cert on the way! so first things first, thanks to all you GCs who pitched in on this, some from OS and some not. you all flat out refused payment, so i owe ya bigtime. I was packing my undies this morning, being a house rookie. then the inspector walked up the driveway with his father christmas beard, introduced himself as Barry, and i thought sheeeeit haha and he was all good - comments included 'put the bloody smoke alarm up', 'its different', 'i did the one down the road', and 'waste of a good drill press for the letterbox' so here are some pics of how it stands today, complete with unfinished stuff, dirty dishes and whatever.

Probably his wang atm

you're both right. wait, west side connection is blues right?

Little bit of progress recently. Purchased an Arduino Mega 2560 so I can start building a Speeduino ECU to eventually run in this. Looking forward to the experience and the learning that will come along with it! It should arrive tomorrow, when it does I will be able to upload the Speeduino software to the board and have a little play (obviously without any actual inputs or outputs). For those interested in the ECU, you can find information here.

So i went to a drift day with a few mates with no intention of going on the pad buuuuuut it was raining and there wernt many people there so i decided to have a go... woooooow it was so much fun cant wait to get back on the pad Love these photos keegan got from kcl photography also went to pick a part and scored a lip from a legacy wagon bought a mint black nardi classic which should be arriving soon as well ill update when thats all on bonus pic from a cruise on saturday with lowcally known pic props goes to Fritz

Meh. Wheels suck. Needs 16s

Manu, this is looking so sweet, as We all knew it would those lights are fucking awesome just need some edison bulbs for maxuimn no light but added rad

2T-G with some mild work is easy in blacktop performance zone. Stock for stock they put out the same power/torque figures as bluetops. They are really great motors, just a bit physically large & heavy for the displacement. Have some cents - If it was me I would go 2T-G and aim for a te27 replica instead of the 38th 4age powered ke25 in NZ.

Use blue loctite then?

/use a lathe big enough to fit the whole thing

Well you all know I love taking shit pictures of shit things. Engine is out

I fell this would be better explained............... in a graph

Ok lets see if this works http://vid225.photobucket.com/albums/dd95/105re/TRIM_20160530_061135_zpsn99jdybk.mp4

Who would have thought standard E30 'bottlecap' wheels would look so good on this?

Hi could you lie down in there or put a banana in the middle for scale?

It's too dark to work after 5.15pm and I only get weekends from 1pm so I built a light tower using some bits of wood, some sodium lights I got from TradeMe for $45 each, and extension cord and the generator Errrm. Turn your head. I dunno how to rotate this stz. Sorry

If you loctite a bolt you can't get a good swing/impact on you need to be dragged out of work and made to undo one in a shit spot. Corrosion you can get frustrated with then write off the time. If you find it has been stud locked that's like a Good kilo of anger plutonium for the poor bugger that has to undo it.

Flange nuts and bolts all day. Once grounded they tighten without holding the other side. Never seen one come loose either, without outside influences.

I can bring some Perendales to make up numbers?

This is looking to be sensational

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46586-y30-gloria-wagon/?p=1587624

The 12cm divided housing is the sought after one and makes it hard to find. There is a vband housing be the size is unique to Holset so would need machining anyway. That one you linked is an 18cm housing so far too big for what I need, but thanks for the suggestion (that 4 bolt type would be easier to work with).

hah! nah he didnt ask, I'd have told him we got it in with 6 good men and some converted massey fergs

Did you crane that in?

Mattteeeeeee. this awesome. Thats the perfect rota souund.

235/30r20 is the size tyre you'd need to run to get it all to clear, any larger and it causes greif as you've discovered!

slowly going back together

The time difference of response is bugger all. As an example. A 2000cc 4cyl 4 stroke engine (if non turbo and 100% VE) inhales 1000 litres of air per 1000rpm. So 7000rpm = 7000litres per minute. 2 litre plenum = under 20 milliseconds to empty. A 20 litre plenum, which would be rediculous, (size of 10 milk bottles stuffed in your engine bay somewhere) would still only be 200 milliseconds. A 1.6 litre engine will be 0.8x the times listed above. Human reaction time if you're wired on coffee is just under 1/3rd of a second, (300 milliseconds). You're not going to notice any difference in sound, because all of the sound waves are happening between the plenum and turbo outlet rather than exposed to atmosphere with NA car. Single throttle will be easier to tune as you get a more stable MAP signal, personally if I was going ITB turbo I would fit a MAF Sensor if off boost drivability etc is of concern.

you would want the fuel return to come back to the tank preferably away from the fuel pump pickup to give the returned fuel enough time to mix with the rest of the fuel and dissipate some heat. Many people have found if the fuel return comes back into a surge tank or really close to the fuel pump pickup that the fuel gets super-heated.

fresh resto, so clean also a fresh resto, also so clean attracted ol barrys like nobodies business twin cam, straight six, supercharged. Also came in a straight eight version

I've had bad dealings with them before, got shocks shortened there, went to pickup and they had assembled and tried to charge me for assembly, had doubled the price, so make sure you tell them you only want shortening not extra labour changes haha, but yea go straight to a machine shop not a retailer

IMG_5605[1] by Neal OnTheTree, on Flickr IMG_5627[1] by Neal OnTheTree, on Flickr IMG_5617[1] by Neal OnTheTree, on Flickr IMG_5619[1] by Neal OnTheTree, on Flickr IMG_5624[1] by Neal OnTheTree, on Flickr IMG_5630[1] by Neal OnTheTree, on Flickr And some BJs to end the day

ALLLLLLLLLLLll RIGHT Consider water blasting engine bay A Great Success. Painted some degreaser stuff on Wednesday, figures crossed weather was going to be not raining Thursday. It wasn't, So woop, the blasting commenced. Its amazing how much difference such a simple act can make. For the first time ever I found a chassis number for the car haha Anyway, spent yesterday Fixing Nikis daily, so didn't get very far on this. Managed to drop the steering box and idler out of the car, so I can paint hat stuff gloss black. Then proceeded to paint the chassis with a light coat un under body seal in a can. Maybe not the most best or showy stuff to use, but I like the matt colour and it sprays really nice and controlled. Might try get another cost on it today. Then I can look at getting motor in next week. Sunglasses.pdf Oh And I pulled my brake master cylinder apart for rebuilding. BEFORE Middle Inner gaurds I am going to paint with satin black, probably out of a can as setting up a spray gun is more fucking around than its worth. This aint no Sheepers / Snoozin Build. Oh Brake master cylinder insides for fun'

Ever since I was a pimply faced, 18 year old, screech, I've had a dream of getting a bmw into what is the worlds biggest bmw mag, Performance BMW UK. Fast forward through about 5 or 6 bmws later, and I flicked my build thread through to the mag, not expecting much. I almost shat myself with excitement when I got quite an enthused reply from the editor. The main problem she was worried with, was, who would do the photos? I excitingly replied, as I had just the guy. In steps our favourite krump dancing, banana spinning, camera snapping gentleman, Richy. On the day of the shoot, Richy boots me out of bed to get that golden shower of light out in Pohangina, and after some hatchback carting for the rolling shots by Waggy tail times, and some skids from Cam, we were complete. Thanks Richy, me ol' pal. Boy oh boy it took some time for the magazines to finally get here, but I tied my hands behind my back and resisted from downloading a copy, so that for the first time, I could turn the pages just like I imagined as a little shitbag. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/29495-sparkles-bmw-of-supermega-happy-hell-yes/

greg has done an amazing job on the seats and carpets. im super happy with how its come out. he's still got the back seats and the head rests (the one in the picture hasn't been done yet) to do and he'll drop them in to me on wednesday night. the front seats are so so so good. I'm really amazed at how good it looks!! can't recommend Greg and his team at Midnight Upholstery highly enough, super high quality work that really shows his skills, thanks Greg!!!!!!!! 2016-05-28_04-25-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-28_04-25-16 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-28_04-25-34 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-28_04-25-43 by sheepers, on Flickr

Blardy modern carparks are narrower than they used to be. All about jamming as many cars all up in that bitch.

2tg on sideys.............. keep it period

What you meant to say is F20C. Have Kelford "rally" cams in a blacktop and find myself only really needing to rev it up to 6k most of the time. No peaky-Ness which is great for road use. These are what the 20v should have come from factory with TBH

without reading any of this thread just do some super basic checks Is there 12v at the coil. Are your points actually opening? Check points gap etc IE: Turn ignition on, with dissy cap off open the the points with a screw driver and see if there is a small spark between the contacts but basicly, yeah, check your points gap

Agree. Cranking speed is rather pathetic. Check all the earths and cables. On a car that old they may have corroded and the cables may have seen better days. Charge and check the battery properly (or use a known good one) And check the starter etc.

Here is a photo of a not so jacked gloria wagon. 50mm blocks in the back and kawasaki special springs up front. sills are pretty much spot on level but looks whack as front guard opening is so big. would like the front a touch lower at some point but this will do for now. Next is wheels, either 15s or 16s to help fill the guards. not much room in the back so wont be anything cray cray //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41006-beavers-87-gloria-wagon/page-6

An actual update! Surprised how easy this was, not perfect ( a few small bubbles) but only took an hour from woah to go (pulled the panel off the car to make life easier) and looks a million times better. cheap too! Its just cheap stuff ($8/m for a 40cm strip) but at that price I dont care if it fades overtime or whatever Excuse the potato photos Discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41006-beavers-87-gloria-wagon/page-4

wait a minute, theres also this. 2016-01-07_03-46-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-01-07_03-44-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-01-07_03-44-27 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-01-07_03-44-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-01-07_03-44-03 by sheepers, on Flickr so yea. pretty happy with that. it needs to come down about 75mm and its currently got 0 camber so i think there will be some coil overs in this cars future. now I'm going to take a well deserved break. and work on my blue car for a few days before i go back to work.

On new years day I picked up this donor and proceeded to spend the following few days practicing my drifting in the rain: A manual 535i with LSD. Before anyone gets upset, the car is far from as good as it looks in the photos. It has quite a few rough edges, paint is flaking everywhere and is generally not that great cosmetically. But mechanically it runs and drives so nice and has done around 170,000 kms. It is my favorite car to drive of all the cars I have at the moment, but let's be honest, the running gear will be far cooler in my e28. So that's the plan. I've also made some small changes to the e28 including e36 illuminated window switches and a gear knob emblem that I made by grinding down and polishing an old steering wheel badge.