RUNAMUCK

Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car

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Hello Cletus.

Do you think doing the whole S chassis front swap as discussed previously might be in order?

It looks like you're doing the hardest part for less of the potential benefits.

My two cents.

Sincerely.

Pete.

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Good day to you Peter

I briefly thought about it, but it means a lot more work/ rework of things I've already done or purchased, and changes the look of the engine bay quite a lot which I'm not keen on 

If my plan works, I think it should be quite straight forward and easy to achieve, and still look factory in the engine bay  

Bilstein shocks with circlip grooves for the lower spring platform 

Already have springs and upper adjusters in stock

Lower arm will need a bush housing machining up, tig it in, will replace Chrysler bush and pin setup with a long bolt , probably use a leaf spring shackle bush setup 

Strengthening the shock mount I think a curved bar welded to the chassis and shock brace should be good enough

 

 

I went down a tangent of mounting the turbo at the back again which would have its pluses and minuses but I think this path is easier and potentially a better result  

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Good afternoon Cletus.

You raise a number of valid points, and it is my opinion that you should continue as you were intending to.

I am however quite taken by the idea of an S chassis front end swap and find it most disappointing that cars of this ilk have be come so expensive.

It is my opinion that an S chassis has much to offer an early Valiant.

 

Regards.

Peter.

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I've often wondered how plausible it would be to adapt the front end out of a mid 2000's nissan.

They're a heavier car, (pushing 1850+kgs) yet have handling these mighty and venerable mopars could only dream of.

I myself am all in favour of the proposed upgrade. Mainly because I can copy it for minimal cost/effort.

I think you'd definitely want to also brace the lower arm, as seen on you tube.  And after seeing  that undercar video of a certain white vg sedan, I'm not really a fan of the under engineered top arm mounts either. (They almost always crack)

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I reckon a shallow angle merge is the way to go, from a looks and flow perspective. You can mig /tig the easy access stuff then the tricky to access bit can be arc welded.. 

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Shit, your definitely gonna have to exhaust wrap that.. Not much in the way of clearance.. 

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That hose clamp trick around the tube for marking is the best trick ever

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Just now, cletus said:

Fuck cars

I'm going to start a more lucrative career in wind chimes 

Man there’s not much more annoying than a neighbour with some wind chimes when your trying to sleep!!

A+ turbo/zorst work tho...

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Yeah fuck cars.

You could start a brass band if the chime business is a flop.

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So whats the plan for tuning this thing with the blow through carby? Just drive and tweak it or still going to dyno tune it?

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I'll probably get it as close as I can myself then dyno to finish it properly 

Finding someone who wants to do it or knows how might be a bit of a challenge but that's later on clints problem 

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that is some beautifully tight radius bends for the shock hoops! who did you go through to get them bent up?

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Bicknell autosport engineering in east tamaki, they do some pretty interesting stuff. I'm not actually sure if he did it or gets it done somewhere else, I just dropped off an old bit of fuel pipe I'd bent into the shape i needed  

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@cletus roughly what ballpark number will the under side blasting and painting cost?

Its on my should get it done, but other things come up I want more list.

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The guy there said $1950 +gst to blast, prime, and paint. 

Quite pricey but everyone I've asked says they do a good job, I could get it done for less than half the cost but I dont think it would be as good as I want it to be 

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just something you might want to fix with your new sump.

the new sump doesn't have a notch for your dipstick so the stick wont go in.

a easy fix is some heat and bend a area in the sump for it to clear past

your old sump does if you check the photo.

otherwise good progress

 

 

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