Jump to content

Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car


RUNAMUCK
 Share

Recommended Posts

Safety @cletus and @chris r need a little context with their harsh reviews of drum brakes. They are bloody good at bringing a moving mass to a grinding halt because of their large surface area. But suck at dissipating the resulting heat that builds up due to science. You'll find in a car with non-boosted brakes drums are better.... well for the first stop or two. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

59 minutes ago, Carsnz123 said:

Safety @cletus and @chris r need a little context with their harsh reviews of drum brakes. They are bloody good at bringing a moving mass to a grinding halt because of their large surface area. But suck at dissipating the resulting heat that builds up due to science. You'll find in a car with non-boosted brakes drums are better.... well for the first stop or two. 

My c10 had boosted drums. they probably needed more adjusting but it could BARELY stop from 100k without fading in any reaosnable distance.

Don't brakes convert rotational energy into heat energy? so if they are poor at dissipating the heat its a pretty shit system imo

anyway discs are easier to work on and don't fade  so for those two reasons alone its worth a swap imo

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, CUL8R said:

I've 4 sets of Surf calipers here if you know anyone that needs them?

Selling stuff on behalf of a stockcar mate. $25 per pair? 

Pretty sweet how close they are to being usable!

Got any S12+8 ones for vented discs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

This be my electrolysis bath. Not currently in operation.

I use a bit of steel tie wire to wrap the rusty thing then attach the negative clip to the wire, outside of the bath. In the past I have used just normal electrical wire but I found that it would quickly dissolve the copper in the wire if it was in the solution.

It didn't seem to make a difference if my sacrificial anode was wrapped right around inside the bucket(using a strip of steel) or just on one side, it still worked.IMAG0512.thumb.jpg.580df742ddb9b52da0f1135b8540fab3.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Yep its a 727. Eric at west auckland engine reconditioners built it.

Has a modified converter, its made from a small body 904 converter with 727 pump drive,  stall should be about 2800 he reckons.

No kick down, it has a reverse pattern manual valve body, bolt in sprag, extra clutches, billet servo, all good bits inside. No trans brake. 

It was quite expensive but should be overkill for what I'll be putting through it, and leaves room for more power later if I build a better engine

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We talked about upgrading the planetary, he doesn't think it needed it,   the trans is a later model one which has 4 planetary gears instead of 3, and being a 318 and turbo means the power doesnt come on quickly with a shock loading like say a nitrous or blown big block.

I think thats why my diff and 904 lasted so well in the vg.

I had thought about getting Chuck to do it, but I've known Eric for a while and he has always been good with spending time explaining things to me about transmission stuff. I went through the invoice and there wasnt anything on it that was unreasonable and it was pretty much exactly what I was expecting to spend

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...