Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car

[cletus]

I don't, I was wondering if an oil cooler with a fan would work 

[sheepers]

I dunno that it will solve your problems tbh.

Blue car has a fairly good size remote oil cooler with fans on it and it really doesn't affect coolant temps too much.

It still gets hot on the dyno, did two back to back dyno sessions, one with oil cooler out front blocking the radiator and one with the oil cooler mounted remotely with fans and it made pretty much no difference. 

Your situation may be different but that's my experience. 

[ThePog]

This is approaching Dynafari levels of cooling fuckery.

Do what I did and just keep adding radiators and shit til it works.

[Roman]

If at all possible I'd opt away from the idea of water meth injection. 
It's a pain in the ass to keep it topped up, and if it runs out but you dont realize then you are in the poo. 
It adds an annoying admin and more points of failure that could cause engine loss. 

[datlow]

What difference is this motor to your previous one? Did it have heating issues

Remove intercooler and run NA for ease of testing

Bonnet open make any difference? 

[cletus]

exactly the same engine setup (apart from the turbo being on the other side) as when it was in the vg, except the vg is about 3" longer in the front,  so had room for a big decent quality electric fan, and room for hot air to escape

 

It was always a bit borderline though, when I pulled the turbo stuff out of that car and put the current motor in it, I left the radiator and fan the same, it never has cooling issues now. So I'm pretty sure it's the intercooler that is cocking things over

 

I haven't compared bonnet open vs shut times but it still gets hot either way 

[fletch]

Any differences in water pumps and pump/crank pulley sizes?

I have been looking into RFB water pumps and pulley sizes and there are different pump fin counts and pulley sizes, some combos will overheat at idle etc

[cletus]

Yeah it had a mystery pulley combo to fit the alternator on the wrong side

That was yesterday's job, to change the lower pulley for a bigger one so now it has a slightly overdriven fan/water pump pulley. Stock 318 has same size crank and w/p pulleys  

 

[h4nd]

Please forgive me asking potentially silly Q's, but when the motor is hot, what's the temp of the air that's just come thru the radiator?

i.e., if the radiator is efficiently coupling the heat in the fluid into the gas (air), then the air temp should have come up quite a bit.

Old style brass/copper radiators have enormous surface area because of those tiny/fiddly/fragile copper foil tapes, which enables their heat transfer. How do aluminium ones compare these days?

BTW, car looks great, man, really good. So beautifully clean in the engine bay.

[cletus]

Thanks! 

The air coming out the back of the rad is quite warm so I think it is working, you can feel when the thermostat opens , the wind in the engine bay gets warm all of a sudden 

 

One thing I found interesting when I was mucking around with it on Sunday,  is how warm the turbo side of the intercooler gets even at idle, I guess the intake side gets hot because it's attached to the exhaust and that just heat soaks everything.  The other side is cold. So the fan must be working sort of well, but that won't be helping the coolant temp issue if there's warm air coming out the back of the intercooler and through the radiator 

 

I definitely think a copper/brass rad would be better but I don't know who would be able to make one these days and it would probably cost a million dollars 

[morkster]

Try getting a big ass OEM one from something you know will work? Yes the last copper brass rad i bought out of oz (via trademe) was 1100$

[morkster]

Anecdotal story here; i had an rx2 a while back that had an og copper brass oil cooler in it.. anyway i put an aluminium one in just to try, and the water temp (ie engine temp) rose. I put the brass one back on and back to normal.

[cletus]

Actually

The radiator I have is a replacement for a landcruiser of some sort so that might be an option that would allow me to use all the stuff I've had made for this one , would need the bottom hose outlet moving but otherwise would be a bolt in 

[Otodat]

Landrover discovery also have a hefty radiator, should be easy enough to get.

[Otodat]

 

840mm x 420mm x 80mm thick, although the core is only like 60mm thick, and the fittings are wrong, and it doesn’t have a cap. So yeah probably not ideal.

[h4nd]

If it's making boost at idle, the air squishing will heat up. Not usual tho? That implies it'd be making stonking amounts of boost on-throttle, or boosting early until the waste gate opens 

[cletus]

Nah it doesn't make boost at idle, I think it's just general hotness/ everything gets heat soaked that makes the pipes warm 

[Spencer]

So bigger rad is next right? Maybe some realestate sign ducting up front to see if there is some weird air shit going on in front with the intercoolee etc. like force it to suck air from up front probably won’t do shit but seen it help before. 

[tortron]

Have you considerd

[RUNAMUCK]

Possibly a derp question,

But are you 100% certain your 1960s guage is reading correctly?  I've had issues in the past with ancient factory guages. Is the sender a proper match to the guage as well?