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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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10 hours ago, chasinthemirage said:

Semi ling but not really worth starting a thread, has anyone mucked around with the Holden 3.8 motors? Pretty keen on another fun car but priced out of VL's, VN SS' etc. Seen a few people in Aussie with turbo 3.8's, anyone done it? Just want a fun street car that I could do the odd skid in/take to the drags occasionally. Thinking 255's, LSD and a turbo (just want it to do hektik doses tbh). Sound plausible or nah? Also inb4 V6's are yuck.

definitely plausible. check out nugget garage and cornfedboost on youtube, plus google performanceforums for v6 holden stuff

its certainly doable. BA falcon with barra would be better? but in reality really better doesnt matter as long as it doses and skids to your satisfaction

moo is still going to moo though

also I would note you need to put as much thought into the gearbag/diff holding and putting down the power as the turbo stuff. autos can usually hold the power and put it down but may need some fettling of electronics or valvebody type stuff depending on the box.

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Thanks man, will check them out! 

I have been wondering that, been keeping an eye out for a BA XR6T ute. Not ideal as far as passenger space but has potential to be used as a work ute for carting saws, wood etc and despite the higher purchase price might actually still end up cheaper than parts, cert etc.

Yeah good point, I know the VL diffs are made of glass. Will do some research!

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Does anyone have some tips to get better fuel economy out of a 2005 Toyota hiace van running a 1TR engine?

It’s a 2L petrol auto, work supplied van so hoping there’s something I can do without too much trouble to get it running better.

Currently it does 310km to 53L petrol.

It’s recently had a new air filter and is due an oil and filter change that I’ll sort out soon. 

I mentioned this in spam and cletus said they’re basically petrol thirsty turds.  Probably true but fingers crossed I can spend less time at the local BP.

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32 minutes ago, tortron said:

Dial in your tyre pressure

Remove rubbish from back

100mph tape over all panel gaps

Fuel card

-Check.

-Need all the tools in the back.

-Lol, including all the big holes in the front? Heard it makes the heater go better.

-Check. Not my money but I quite like my work and value not spending all my time refueling.

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Oil change intervals ~

How often is too often? I have a mate who's a mechanic and just asked him if 3,000km is fine. 

He said no. Waste of money. 6-7 minimum would be better. But I've always done 3k as that's what I was taught from MR2 forums and owning relatively high mileage cars. 

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Why would you want to change it that often?

I do 10k for normal cars, or 5k for highly strung or boosted cars. Good oils on modern cars will run further than that happily (or in the case of the daily, which is currently 4k overdue, oops).

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6 minutes ago, 87creepin said:

Tbh, I got into cars from owning an MR2

3k seemed to be the consensus amongst the mr2oc guys. 

You dont mean 3k MILES do you, which is almost 5K KM?

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3 hours ago, a.craw4d said:

Currently it does 310km to 53L petrol.

That's criminal!

My old work van was previous shape to what you have, was 2.4L manual and i'd get 400km or so to a tank. Loaded up with tools. I think they are just turds really. Made zero difference how I drove it, just a turd on the fuel. I'd even test with a tank driving like a nana and a tank driving like I stole it (still stupidly slow) and the fuel economy was the same. I used to have a 2L (3SGE) 4WD auto RAV4 and it would use 45L ish for 350km. So add some weight and the fuel economy is about the same.

edit

More modern 2.4L auto (CVT) Corolla in the fleet uses half the fuel and would be twice as fast as the RAV4, not a problem. With the price of fuel, if you do big mileage, could even be worth selling it to buy something better on fuel. Previous work van was a 2012ish Transit diesel, so much faster and would net 9km/L fully loaded. 80L tank meant 750km or so between fills, bliss.

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Toyota factory interval for SW20 is 5,000-10,000k (3,000-6,000 miles) or every 6 months "whichever comes first".

 

I aim for 10k with my 1KZ, but pretty much just do it when the oil light starts talking longer to turn off in the morning around 7k.

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My Datsun engine has a total loss replacement system. This is because of two reasons..

1 : Its a British design engine with nothing more than an alloy head added (apparently..)

2 : It's been installed into a British car so its just trying to fit in with what goes with the territory.

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13 hours ago, a.craw4d said:

Does anyone have some tips to get better fuel economy out of a 2005 Toyota hiace van running a 1TR engine?

It’s a 2L petrol auto, work supplied van so hoping there’s something I can do without too much trouble to get it running better.

Currently it does 310km to 53L petrol.

It’s recently had a new air filter and is due an oil and filter change that I’ll sort out soon. 

I mentioned this in spam and cletus said they’re basically petrol thirsty turds.  Probably true but fingers crossed I can spend less time at the local BP.

Mine has a diff head from either a diesel or a coach version. Seems to be about 8-9% taller. Mostly used on the open road so it's a definite plus for economy. Replaced as the original whined like fuck.

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