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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Fixed the welder with a bit of wiring tracing and looking at stzz.

Took out the circuit board behind the wire speed knob, cleaned years of garage dust/metal filling mix off the board which could of been bridging some circuits and doing something funny then there was a big grey box on the board that I guessed was a relay so gave that a tap with a screw driver and its back to working properly which is great because I didnt wanna have to buy a new welder

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Nice

 

I got the Commondore engine running after pulling the injector rail out and spraying fuel all around the garage. Swapped a couple of dead ones with working ones from the old engine and it fires up OK now.

Have to finish up the plumbing for the cooling system before test drives.

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Because I'm too lazy to look up the glazing rule,

How dark is the rear window of a ute allowed to be tinted?

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How dumb is it that MA is restricted to 35% on the rear windows but everything else can be blacked out completely? What is the reasoning behind that?

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Business use type vehicle, well at least more often than MA standard car? Only reason I can think of.

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2 hours ago, AllTorque said:

You can do what ever to the rear window of a Ute 

570wide.jpg

Can I ask what each class means?

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Would it need to be registered as a goods vehicle though?

User type NA rather than MA?

And perhaps have more expensive rego? (Its over 40 years old anyway, but it's nice to know so I dont get fisted by some.power tripping nazi copper at some.point)

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21 minutes ago, SOHC said:

I found if you cut open a Fram G12 in-line fuel filter you can jam it in your sedanent glass 

CD1ED7BF-DE25-4AC9-8092-E3254C0CDC3D.jpeg

Works in reverse tho, shit is going into the inside of the filter 

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22 minutes ago, SOHC said:

I found if you cut open a Fram G12 in-line fuel filter you can jam it in your sedanent glass 

CD1ED7BF-DE25-4AC9-8092-E3254C0CDC3D.jpeg

This is relevant to my interests. 

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2 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Would it need to be registered as a goods vehicle though?

User type NA rather than MA?

Having more load space than passenger it would always have been registered NA.

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my EF civic does this weird intermittent thing where it dies as soon as you disengage the key/starter. only does it sometimes, and you can keep the revs up and sometimes save it or hold the key on and keep the starter winding and it sorts itself out. 

this morning i had much trouble getting it to start and when it did it cut out a few times before i managed to save it with a bit of choke and mashing the throttle. 

I dont think its a usual culprit like a vaccuum leak or carb issue cos the car runs fine once it starts up (eventually). Am i right to suspect it may be the fuel pump? Google has suggested the ignition module as well but im leaning more towards fuel pump being a lemon

anything else to check? anyone had similar issue? D15B motor.

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Those Honda ign modules are notorious for fucking out but it would be unlikely if it runs fine afterwards.  When the one on my City fucked out it wouldn't go at all, thats not to say that they don't have varying levels of out fuckery however. 

Is it mechanical or electric fuel pump?  

Are you sure it's not just that you're a noob with the choke?  :P

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2 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Those Honda ign modules are notorious for fucking out but it would be unlikely if it runs fine afterwards.  When the one on my City fucked out it wouldn't go at all, thats not to say that they don't have varying levels of out fuckery however. 

Is it mechanical or electric fuel pump?  

Are you sure it's not just that you're a noob with the choke?  :P

lel i am proficient in choke operation m9

google says electric. looks like its an in-tank pump and i just filled it up. womp

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My wife's Laser was hard to start for some months. Once started it ran fine. The problem was thought by many to be fuel related but eventually turned out to be a faulty ignition module.

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