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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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25 minutes ago, Beaver said:

Starter motors. Every so often mine makes a horrendous grinding/spinning noise and doesn't turn the motor. Sounds like it keeps spinning for a bit (like free spins) once I let the key off as well. Might do it once or twice and then just starts normally. Dodgy starter or something more serious?

Could be the one way clutch in the starter.

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16 minutes ago, Alfashark said:

Not extending enough to make contact with the flywheel, or flywheel missing teeth.

Yup, mine does this, sticky Bendix. I cleaned all the smoo out of it and lubed with graphite and she's all gravy

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8 minutes ago, tortron said:

Yup, mine does this, sticky Bendix. I cleaned all the smoo out of it and lubed with graphite and she's all gravy

I did the exact same on my old B1600, it would turn the engine over for a split second then pop out making a whizzing noise. Clean and lube ftw

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34 minutes ago, SOHC said:

bust out the epson salts and if that dosnt work slam the battery on the ground a few times

Tried some of that Recharge liquid and dropping it a bit already. Plates look a bit distorted in that cell and it measure below 12v when taken off the charger. I reckon it's rooted.

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10 hours ago, Nominal said:

Tried some of that Recharge liquid and dropping it a bit already. Plates look a bit distorted in that cell and it measure below 12v when taken off the charger. I reckon it's rooted.

Sounds like it, I am sure they make those separatetors from something that crapps out faster 

 

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11 hours ago, Beaver said:

Starter motors. Every so often mine makes a horrendous grinding/spinning noise and doesn't turn the motor. Sounds like it keeps spinning for a bit (like free spins) once I let the key off as well. Might do it once or twice and then just starts normally. Dodgy starter or something more serious?

Sounds like the BMW one I had. Solenoid wasn't throwing far enough so wouldn't engage. Replaced starter, was all good. 

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Weld through primer

Today someone tried to.tell.me.that weld.through primer.absorbs water, and promotes rust oustside the area directly welded.

What fucking good would that be??!!

Someone please tell me they're wrong?

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7 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Weld through primer

Today someone tried to.tell.me.that weld.through primer.absorbs water, and promotes rust oustside the area directly welded.

What fucking good would that be??!!

Someone please tell me they're wrong?

i-car is pretty reputable I think? Here is there read on the Nissan factory instructions for repair

https://rts.i-car.com/collision-repair-news/weld-through-primer-guidelines-nissan.html

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I don’t think weld through primer is any good from my experience, most rattle can paint can fuck off. 2 part epoxy works better IMO it holds out to heat just as well, pretty much invincible haha. Only catch is you want it to be cured well before welding so got to wait a day or two. You remove it from the weld area  though, use a spot weld drill to remove if spot welding some seams together. Put it on the back of all your patches etc. 

Paint something in weld through primer and leave it outside, I did and it didn’t last that long. By that test it’s garbage.

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Will changing from a 10kg 180mm long coilover spring to a 10kg 250mm long coilover spring lower the car more as each coil compresses X amount or am I having a brain fart? 

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if the preload is the same,  will be same height.     10kg spring is a 10kg spring no mater the length.  the longer spring will be made out of thicker material to compensate for length. 

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Thanks for that! Is there a calculator available for figuring out drop if swapping to 8kg? Insert is hitting original stub axle inside tube and have tried making springs uncaptive and adding keepers but compressed keepers are raising car as well 

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Just use the 8kg and 10kg figures? 8kg / 10kg needed to compress spring 1mm, at least that is the theory i'm working with. 

Assuming your spring rates are linear anyway. I have linear up front and progressive in the rear, so I don't think I can accurately work out the rear drop due to changing spring rate as weight is applied.

What brand shock setup are you using? Do they do a shorter shock option? If i'm reading what you are saying right, it sounds like even if you get a spring rate combo that works, the shock will bottom? In order to get the car low enough with a lower spring rate, it may bottom out under load right? 10kg is pretty intense. Keep in mind you need 40mm droop and compression from ride hide (for cert at least). Using the above theory you'll need 400kg on each front corner in order to get that droop when car is jacked. 

The coilover pics in your build thread aren't working, but if they are BC i'm not sure if shorter shocks are available or not. It could help solve some problems though. 

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Factory ecu wiring into old junk.. 

 

Is this fairly straight forward? 

I'm looking at a b6 mx5 conversion for the hunter, and cos I'm so cheap I'd like to keep the original loom etc. 

I don't think these have any immobiliser components in them. 

 

Goal is to keep the smoke inside the wires

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Take the whole loom and replace everything with mx5 stuff?

 

Gotta be like 12 wires in a hunter tho eh

 

 

Have stripped a few looms down for my Buick in mitsi and it was easy enough (original conversion was yuck)

 

I found it good to remove the loom myself so I could label everything as the wiring diagrams were not great and lots of wires were glossed over or different, can figure it out through elimination tho. I'd imagine you would get either a whole car or front cut?

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Keep hunter body loom and run engine off MX5 loom? Just strip out any MX5 wires you don't need. 

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