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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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what are you trying to do?     sounds like you need to get the right ignitor

looks like the ignitor you have is made to trigger off a reluctor wheel in the  dizzy, which then fires the coil.     - pretty much carb eletronic ignition
the one you need the ecu tells it when to fire the coil .    

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9 hours ago, shizzl said:

Factory ecu wiring into old junk.. 

 

Is this fairly straight forward? 

I'm looking at a b6 mx5 conversion for the hunter, and cos I'm so cheap I'd like to keep the original loom etc. 

I don't think these have any immobiliser components in them. 

 

Goal is to keep the smoke inside the wires

Mx5 loom is a clusterfuck - no seperate engine loom all wires for everything bundled together and exit out both sides of the engine bay 

can be done and you will end up with not many wires - check out some of the guides for Mx5 based kits cars as they do exactly this 

no immobiliser on early models unless aftermarket 

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Father just brought a new car that arrived wired with big brother spec dash cams, one still has the SD card inside full of .vdd files, any suggestions on what programs will open them? I can see thumbnails on my mac showing intersections, but VLC and Quicktime have no interest.

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I usually watch them through the camera, the most interesting bit is usually how fucking massive the parking on the ship is. 8-10 levels of the biggest car park ever.

And if the battery has been flat that's all you'll get, or sometimes hours of idling lol.

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On 03/02/2020 at 21:40, kws said:

Touch wood I have had my K jet Volvo for 10 years over 200,000 kms and never had to even fuck with it once. 

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1 hour ago, Adoom said:

You been watching Jafromobile on Yootuub or something?

Something like that, he was building a Chevrolet stovebolt, someone I know had a 1930 ford motor that had been painted with that stuff and it was super clean inside, sludge couldn’t stick to it

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Water pump tech question: (3AU)

What is the go to with sealing them. It came with a bunch of gaskets which is fine, I assume just slap those on as is. But it also has an o-ring that sits against the block, with no obvious slot to hold it in place. Is tossing that to the side and just liquid gasketing the water pump to the block going to work? I also have a bypass pipe which has two o-rings that fit inside cut outs. Should I goo the o-rings and fit the pipe in, or just run o-rings? New bypass pipe will be NLA, like most other bits were, so it's all RockAuto supplied. So I have sanded all the corrosion off the pipe and it's actually solid, so not too worried about getting a new bit of pipe. With the gasket goo, do you put it on and tighten it all the way home or leave it a while before tightening it all the way?

N00b questions I know, but giving it a go because can't move car and what could possibly go wrong? I never bothered doing it on other car, just had mechanic do it as it was so much easier. He no longer mechanics, so here we are. Cambelt is after this, and it didn't come with a tension spring to attach to the tensioner, so will have to find one of those. Apart from that, RockAuto supplied to rest.

Couldn't work out why the pump wouldn't come off. Factory manual only shows replacing the front half of the pump, doh. Looks like just the front half is typically replaced. Which makes sense as mother of god, disconnecting the pipe under the headers, from the back of the waterpump is a nightmare for an amateur. That connection has some wierdo metalish gasket with a rib on it. Is it all good to goo the lot or nah? It's in far from new condition, so i'll be prepping the surfaces as best I can. Just not sure if it's like exhaust gaskets where gooing them can be better than just using gaskets alone.

Any help is welcomed, chur.

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I never use gaskets other than head gaskets obviously. I use copper max or whatever derivative is on the shelf, super small bead and smear that around maybe 1/4mm without leaving dags anywhere.. Then I finger/nip up the bolts and leave it for a couple of hours then torque up.. If there's an o-ring supplied I use that.. 

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