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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Sounds like transformer or rectifier? I understood contactors usually fail open circuit

I have an old 1phase cebora mig sitting in the corner that you can borrow if its home stuff you need to finish

 

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Want Someone to weld in my minor repairs

Chassis rails, bulkhead

Have the panels here

Have the measurements as to where they should be. Can supply a jig even.

Needs for repair cert, so being able to sign off on that needed and also I have other minors to work on with my time. So in order to get it in the road in 2020 il pay CASH MONEY.

I am in Papakura, so in Auckland ideally

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Does anyone know if this plug that says "10 pack" is 10 whole plugs or 10 fragments?  I've seen "5 pack" listed but they were selling 5 peices of plastic and metal as if you'd want to buy them individually for some reason.
A 10 pack, in their mind might be 6 metal pieces that go on the wires and 4 plastic pieces that clip together to make a plug.

https://www.narva.com.au/products/57503

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@tortron Do you happen to know the correct orientation for the 3 plugs on the back of a VN instrument cluster? Having trouble getting this heap to run again after the swap, and I didn't note the correct setup.

Cranks with fuel pump running and at least some sparks, but won't fire.

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1 minute ago, Nominal said:

@tortron Do you happen to know the correct orientation for the 3 plugs on the back of a VN instrument cluster? Having trouble getting this heap to run again after the swap, and I didn't note the correct setup.

Cranks with fuel pump running and at least some sparks, but won't fire.

Yup yup

But it should run without the instrument cluster at all

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Con1 on left sitting in drivers seat

Orange clip

Wires left to right at top are red black stripe. Empty. Brown. Black. Pink. Brown red stripe

 

Con 2 in middle

Blue clip

Wires left to right at the top

Grey, grey,brown white stripe, brown white stripe. Green. Tan

 

Con 3 right hand side pos.

Orange clip

Wires at top. Empty. Black white stripe. Empty. Brown yellow stripe. Empty. Empty..

 

My Ute starts and drives with no cluster

 

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11 minutes ago, tortron said:

 

 

My Ute starts and drives with no cluster

 

Thanks - I did have it this way as it happens.

These wires were cut up by the alternator, but I'm guessing they aren't needed for it to run at least. (Think they are for oil pressure switch)

New engine is an S1 (based on google) as it has the square coil packs. One I removed was an S2 with round coils. Sparks are present though.


Any other ideas?

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Does the fuel pump run when key is in start/crank pos.

The oil switch is supposed to be connected up to the fuel pump. The idea being that if the car is upside down there's no oil pressure and fuel is cut. There is a bypass so that when car is cranking I think the fuel pump works in order to start. Then the wiring from the oil switch is supposed to take over.

You may have one of the few cars this was correctly wired up in? Try hardwire the fuel pump maybe to check

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I constantly have problems with my auto park switch. Will crank but no power to fuel injectors.

Can bypass that with a live wire to the relay to check

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5 minutes ago, tortron said:

I constantly have problems with my auto park switch. Will crank but no power to fuel injectors.

Can bypass that with a live wire to the relay to check

Deets? Hot wired fuel pump and no diff.

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Green and black dealie on the auto shifter. Can open it up and clean the contacts and bend them a bit.

 

I've remembered it wrong. It won't crank in that fail. You hotwire the grey with blue stripe wire to start relay.

 

Do you still have a fusebox? Check fuse 10 I think, that goes to efi relay.

The fail I'm thinking of is the ECU. Mines got a dodgy connection and doesn't turn on the efi. I just unplug it and plug it back in and it comes right

 

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1 hour ago, tortron said:

Green and black dealie on the auto shifter. Can open it up and clean the contacts and bend them a bit.

 

I've remembered it wrong. It won't crank in that fail. You hotwire the grey with blue stripe wire to start relay.

 

Do you still have a fusebox? Check fuse 10 I think, that goes to efi relay.

The fail I'm thinking of is the ECU. Mines got a dodgy connection and doesn't turn on the efi. I just unplug it and plug it back in and it comes right

 

All seems OK to me. EFI relay is switching on. Injectors have +12v. Test light shows that they are being switched. Has spark and fuel.

Apparently the PO had the front of the engine apart so the CAS might be wrong somehow?

PITA!

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Well, there's one on the old motor. Although since the injectors are pulsing I imagine it must be working to some extent.

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41 minutes ago, tortron said:

They pulse on every stroke tho, so spark could be out of kilter with the cam

Does fire a bit on 'start ya bastard' so it may be that the injectors are stuck. I suspect it's been a few years since this engine was running.

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More welder issues

Have a Cebora Bravo 155 and after doing a bit of welding to make up a leveling bar its decided that the wire is constantly live/gas flow doesnt turn off. Wire still feeds when trigger is pulled but its constantly live.

Looks like this with the cover off, gas flow stops when I take a terminal off the gas solenoid.

Where should I start looking for an issue? 

82042701_469167243779496_313605393405811

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