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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Sweet thanks for the info team. Will grab some rubber grease and hylomar blue tomorrow.

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Yeah theres few things more annoying than a seal that decides to start leaking after you've removed and refitted all the stuff to get to it 

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With my water pumps I just use the gasket that comes with it, no sealant or anything unless it specifies it. Those paper gaskets usually work well.

Regarding leaky seals, I replaced my starlet's sump gasket like 4 years ago and didn't put enough sealant at the specified points and it has been slowly dripping ever since. Requires removing the gearbox to get at it and I still haven't built up the motivation.

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I put a duel cone K&N washable pod filter on the Volvo 245 for a temporary air filter as I removed the old one and then crushed it and fuck me it uses no petrol at all anymore, I gave it a spray down with filter oil to, do they filter all right, will it stop the small partials as much as a paper filter? 

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32 minutes ago, SOHC said:

I put a duel cone K&N washable pod filter on the Volvo 245 for a temporary air filter as I removed the old one and then crushed it and fuck me it uses no petrol at all anymore, I gave it a spray down with filter oil to, do they filter all right, will it stop the small partials as much as a paper filter? 

No.

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Put the waterpump on engine today, turns out the metal bypass pipe is too short as the original waterpump potentially had a metal step or something (long since rusted away). Found a bit of galv pipe, and extended it, banged it all together and will see how it seals tomorrow. What a nightmare. I have a feeling it's 1-2mm too short and not putting big pressure on the o-rings that fit down the recesses. Replacing the whole pump is biting me in the arse. If that doesn't work I may just epoxy some stubs in and put a rubber hose between the points. Only just thought of that right now... fuck. So mad right now. Cars.

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2 hours ago, Bling said:

Put the waterpump on engine today, turns out the metal bypass pipe is too short as the original waterpump potentially had a metal step or something (long since rusted away). Found a bit of galv pipe, and extended it, banged it all together and will see how it seals tomorrow. What a nightmare. I have a feeling it's 1-2mm too short and not putting big pressure on the o-rings that fit down the recesses. Replacing the whole pump is biting me in the arse. If that doesn't work I may just epoxy some stubs in and put a rubber hose between the points. Only just thought of that right now... fuck. So mad right now. Cars.

 

I wonder why they would do that and not use a rubber hose.. Seems a bit mickey to me.. 

 

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Yeah it's a bit shit. 

Here is the setup, so i'm guessing most people just replace the front half. Which I would have done, but figured a whole new unit would be better. Can see the pipe there with the o-rings. Could be due to buying off RockAuto and the 4AC being slightly different somehow. Pretty sure the part numbers will have matched otherwise I wouldn't have grabbed it. But anyway, I think i'll try source some pipe and hose as it would mean I have allowance to work with. I've already fucked around linishing down a pipe, cutting it in half and adding 5mm to it by way of welding. But a bit of rubber hose will be a better solution I think. 

MA9413.png

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Hmm could be an option. I didn't think it would even be available to be honest as the waterpump itself is NLA via Toyota along with the radiator hoses. Hadn't looked up that part photo to be honest as the pipe I "had" (now chopped) looked complete, but way too short. But going by that photo, both ends have rusted completely off and no longer exist. Seems like the pipe just floats in between the two sections too as it doesn't look long enough to bottom out. Guess the o-rings mean that is legit. Just not convinced my housing is in good enough condition to seal to an o-ring. Will look on the web to see about sourcing a pipe. 

Edit: seems like a hard part to track down, at least from someone that will ship direct and not for $100 shipping.

 

Maybe just using the longer tube I made and some hylomar blue will do the trick. Or I could try and grove my pipe to fit the o-rings. Will look into this.

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I thought that may have been the case the way you worded it.   worth seeing  if toyota has them.      I can attempt to measure the gap between the water pump and water neck on  my 4age setup if you like?  to see if they are the same.   no guarantees tho as its a knob to get to without pulling stuff apart

assume you have seen these ones ?  57 shipped  bit spendy for a bit of pipe i guess.

https://www.sq-engineering.com/product/16v-4age-water-bypass-pipe/

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Cheers, the cheapest option I've seen so far, hadn't come across that though had just been looking up part numbers.

Don't worry about trying to measure yours, it will be a nightmare to do. Thanks though. Will try Toyota, they may have some old stock in some obscure storage. 4AGE could well be the same.

Problem I have now, is that I understand why the inside of the top outlet is so rough, part of the tube may still be stuck in it. So i'll take that off the car again and tidy it up. If I can't get it clean enough for an o-ring i'll need to come up with another solution. Which is where I may end up back at two short pipes and a clamped rubber hose. Just have to find some alloy pipe of appropriate diameter.

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The previously mentioned companies didn't have any? They might have leads on someone that does at least.

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