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7 hours ago, Kimjon said:

Front seat belt lower anchor points on or near a B piller. Can someone post a photo of what an acceptable one would look like installed on an old car...bonus points if it's an impala? Or perhaps a link to where I'd find the required standards? 

I need to sort this issue out for a cert, and I still haven't got my head around it yet.

 

Seatbelt anchorages standard here - https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf

Lower anchorages normally go in the floor, upper anchorages go in the B-pillar.

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21 minutes ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2346710495

Looking into buying these for my Datsun/Patrol project. Trying to get some more info about the materials used etc, have emailed the company asking for more info. 

Found this:

http://roadsafe.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/RAP365A-RANPB.pdf

@KKtrips @cletus Any ideas off the top of your head, if these are/can be legal, or have you seen these before?

Any help appreciated.  

Hard to say, they don't look like any I have seen before when I've looked at drop boxes and my first thought is they look flimsy, but @cletus has probably seen more of them than I have and might say they're fine.

Are you trying to correct caster? If so perhaps some caster correction bushes like these will be cheaper and simpler.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/suspension/listing-2348608138.htm?rsqid=2646445784534f89861fb5bb04fde7dd-001

 

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Just a note on caster correction bushes, they don't last very long. On my land rover I slotted the bolt holes for the swivel bolts to the axle to give me a couple of degrees caster back

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14 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:

Just a note on caster correction bushes, they don't last very long. On my land rover I slotted the bolt holes for the swivel bolts to the axle to give me a couple of degrees caster back

Probably installed badly or misaligned side to side, no reason they should wear any faster that I know of

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18 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

Hard to say, they don't look like any I have seen before when I've looked at drop boxes and my first thought is they look flimsy, but @cletus has probably seen more of them than I have and might say they're fine.

Are you trying to correct caster? If so perhaps some caster correction bushes like these will be cheaper and simpler.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/suspension/listing-2348608138.htm?rsqid=2646445784534f89861fb5bb04fde7dd-001

 

Cheers for the reply.

Caster correction is part of it, they also change from a pin to a radius bush on the chassis end so they allow more articulation. The bush goes between the 2 plates so could be why they don't look as strong? As they aren't boxed in between the plates. 

Will be keen to hear what Clint has to say.

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If you plan to do some decent off roading caster correction bushes will wear out quicker,the hole not center in the bush so less material and flog out

I run superior engineering super flex radius arms(passed cert) which are similar to those and still run genuine bushes and give you caster correction for suspension lift.

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1 hour ago, jessemk2 said:

If you plan to do some decent off roading caster correction bushes will wear out quicker,the hole not center in the bush so less material and flog out

I run superior engineering super flex radius arms(passed cert) which are similar to those and still run genuine bushes and give you caster correction for suspension lift.

Yeah Superior Engineering ones will be what I will get if these end up being not cert worthy.

Just the fact that they are about twice the price puts me off.

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1 hour ago, KKtrips said:

Probably installed badly or misaligned side to side, no reason they should wear any faster that I know of

Nope just having less meat on one side means they don't last that long

 

1 hour ago, jessemk2 said:

If you plan to do some decent off roading caster correction bushes will wear out quicker,the hole not center in the bush so less material and flog out

I run superior engineering super flex radius arms(passed cert) which are similar to those and still run genuine bushes and give you caster correction for suspension lift.

 

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1 hour ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Yeah Superior Engineering ones will be what I will get if these end up being not cert worthy.

Just the fact that they are about twice the price puts me off.

You might want to check 

That trademe link could only be for one radius arm?

 

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1 hour ago, jessemk2 said:

If you plan to do some decent off roading caster correction bushes will wear out quicker,the hole not center in the bush so less material and flog out

I run superior engineering super flex radius arms(passed cert) which are similar to those and still run genuine bushes and give you caster correction for suspension lift.

Yeah Superior Engineering ones will be what I will get if these end up being not cert worthy.

Just the fact that they are about twice the price puts me off.

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11 hours ago, Kimjon said:

Front seat belt lower anchor points on or near a B piller. Can someone post a photo of what an acceptable one would look like installed on an old car...bonus points if it's an impala? Or perhaps a link to where I'd find the required standards? 

I need to sort this issue out for a cert, and I still haven't got my head around it yet.

 

As mentioned usually the plates are fitted on the floor which is probably the easiest way. I have done a couple where plates have been welded in to the bottom of the pillar, which looks neater, but you would need to talk to your certifier first to make sure hes happy with that, as it's not in the book . And it wrecks the paint 

 

There is a recipe in the ccm which allows for welding an upper pillar anch in the pillar

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28 minutes ago, cletus said:

As mentioned usually the plates are fitted on the floor which is probably the easiest way. I have done a couple where plates have been welded in to the bottom of the pillar, which looks neater, but you would need to talk to your certifier first to make sure hes happy with that, as it's not in the book . And it wrecks the paint 

 

There is a recipe in the ccm which allows for welding an upper pillar anch in the pillar

Less work and not ruining my paint sounds good.

He was happy with the upper mount point, but not the lower anchors. I'm capable of doing the work, just wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly first.

 

Cheers

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4 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Cheers for the reply.

Caster correction is part of it, they also change from a pin to a radius bush on the chassis end so they allow more articulation. The bush goes between the 2 plates so could be why they don't look as strong? As they aren't boxed in between the plates. 

Will be keen to hear what Clint has to say.

I couldn't say from pics 100% they would be ok or not.  I'd have to look at it in person 

The bits that look like they 'may' be an issue are the radius just behind the second front bush to clear the steering is quite sharp, and the bracket at the chassis end isn't supported where the bush is, although the bracket does get clamped by the gbox member from memory? . But it all might be fine. 

I did have a customer who made his own arms for a landcruiser, and the radius for the steering arm was too big and it failed FEA testing compared to the factory arm

He redesigned them and then they were ok after that

 

How much are you lifting the suspension?  IMO a patrol starts to get a bit yuck with more than a 3" lift due to panhard bar angles  

 

 

Screenshot_20191011-185537_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20191011-185559_Samsung Internet.jpg

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3 hours ago, cletus said:

I couldn't say from pics 100% they would be ok or not.  I'd have to look at it in person 

The bits that look like they 'may' be an issue are the radius just behind the second front bush to clear the steering is quite sharp, and the bracket at the chassis end isn't supported where the bush is, although the bracket does get clamped by the gbox member from memory? . But it all might be fine. 

I did have a customer who made his own arms for a landcruiser, and the radius for the steering arm was too big and it failed FEA testing compared to the factory arm

He redesigned them and then they were ok after that

 

How much are you lifting the suspension?  IMO a patrol starts to get a bit yuck with more than a 3" lift due to panhard bar angles  

 

 

Screenshot_20191011-185537_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20191011-185559_Samsung Internet.jpg

Hmm. Is there any way to know whether or not they’ll be fine without buying them? As far as I am aware, nobody in NZ stocks them. 

From what I understand the back of the drop box is sandwiched between the chassis and gearbox crossmember, and the front end is supported by a bolt that bolts up to where the original pin from the end of the factory radius arm goes in.

4” is what I have gone for in terms of lift, I may live to regret it, but I am committed at this point, a lot of the components I have already purchased are for a 4” lift.

Is the problem with the “sharpness” of the radius in the arm that it creates a stress point? 

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1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

Please tell me the LVVTA isn't relying on the POS SolidWorks FEA system for their approvals?

One would hope there is additional reporting behind those images to qualify the results?

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