Simon Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 ^ Swap for factory for wofs. Story of my life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 the existing fuel lines in my escort are held to the chassis with some little clips that i think are welded to the rails, i am rerunning my fuel line but it is too big for the existing clips, do you think a wof/cert man would be happy for me to drill holes & put rivnuts into my chassis to hold tube clamps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2JZKP Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 do you have to put it into the chassis or can you drill them into the sheetmetal of the floor be better if they were in the floorpan not chassis rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvin Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 the existing fuel lines in my escort are held to the chassis with some little clips that i think are welded to the rails, i am rerunning my fuel line but it is too big for the existing clips, do you think a wof/cert man would be happy for me to drill holes & put rivnuts into my chassis to hold tube clamps? yea i think thats fine,im doing the same thing so asked my cert guy a few weeks back about the same thing,he said as long as its atached every 16cm.........or was that 16inch? he's old and into american stuff so it must be inchs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 thanks, i should really ask a cert/wof man myself, but im lazy and ill drill the holes at 300mm centres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 would this be considered a solid engine mount? am going to be doing my mounts the same way (but with better welding) but dont want to have to solid mount the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS5620 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Hey. Im putting a disc brake diff in my mk1 but the way it has been set up is that the rear shock now connects to the lowering block and not the diff as it originally did.........would this be ok???????????????, I cant find anything on the LVVTA site!!!! Also the blocks are 75mm, which is ok coz the LVVTA say If supported by correctly fitted and adjusted lift-bars or anti tramp rods,80mm my question is would these http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =249825161 be sweet to use??? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 i had some of those bars on a car with 2 inch blocks once, they were a pain in the asshole due to being too low/got stuck on speedbumps etc. so with 75mm blocks would be worse, depending on what size tyre you are using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS5620 Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Well i'm running 16" rims with 205/40/16 tyres what were you ^ running that made it such a problem?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 205/70/14 balloons. you could work it out by measuring how much gap you have now between the spring plate and the ground, minus how high the traction bar is. also check how the spring sits, if the front spring eye is lower than the spring plate then the front of the traction bar will be even closer to hitting the ground. you might be better off with a link bar off the top of the diff housing to the inside of the chassis rail, gt falcons had that, possibly some escorts or capris as well. or a 2 inch block and reset springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 would this be considered a solid engine mount? am going to be doing my mounts the same way (but with better welding) but dont want to have to solid mount the box Those aren't classed as solid engine mounts. Ten Five did his RB25 mounts the same way using nolathane, they don't have much give though with engine vibration and twist etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 they don't have much give though with engine vibration and twist etc. thats what im aiming for, tight as i can get it without having to solid mount (tight fitments of engine/4 zorst tubes etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 they don't have much give though with engine vibration and twist etc. thats what im aiming for, tight as i can get it without having to solid mount (tight fitments of engine/4 zorst tubes etc) same reason i ran nolathane was my zorst and starter was quite tight. dont have much problems with it at all except for max vibrations loaded up at idle (is a auto) but being a 6 when it revs or is in neutral is all good. cert man was all happy with them for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Suspension travel for cert... It needs to be a minimum of 35mm is that right? And is that before it touches bumpstops, or can bumpstop movement be included in that? How do they test travel? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 depends hudely on your certifier. It will need to hit bumps before it hits chassis and tyres are not allowed to contact the guard during normal suspension travel. Its best to ring up the guy who is certing your stz and ask him, then you have somthing concrete rather than waht someone on the internet said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 waht someone on the internet said but thats the bee end and end all of everything isnt it? haha but yeh, what he said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombsquad Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 the rear shock now connects to the lowering block and not the diff as it originally did.........would this be ok???????????????, I cant find anything on the LVVTA site!!!!Also the blocks are 75mm As far as I know the max legal height for blocks is 2" or 50mm (I could be wrong but from my experiances this is the case) I dont think id personally want my shocks bolted to the blocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombsquad Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 My question is... my cars on A reg with no wof, i was under the impression this allowed me to drive to and from places of vehicle repair in order to get a warrant. I got pulled over by the cops and he reckons i have to have a wof in order to be on the road at all, in which case wtfs the point in A reg?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 You can have 3" blocks if you have tramp bars Do you have a picture of shock attatchment? How are the blocks located in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 went to go start putting my fuel line along my chassis, but the p clips sit about 5-7mm below the chassis rail, ok or not ok? im thinking not in which case i will have to look at running steel lines(dont really want to coz its a kernt to work with imo) is there a set of materials that you may use as fuel lines? specifically for carburetors at this stage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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