Jump to content

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


si

Recommended Posts

usually getting stuff changed on the plate isnt just ring up and get the plate re printed, would need re certing to change wheel size

travel= hard to know without actually seeing/driving the car, sometimes you can get away with a bit less if you include compression of the bumpstop as well, or if it has stiff springs and shocks etc...there are a lot of variables, and a different certifier may have a different opinion on whats too stiff etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

driveshaft- if you have used all stock parts then no you wont need one they are only required when the stock engine has had a substantial increase in power or if a larger/more powerful engine is fitted, or if the driveshaft is modified.

The way I read the LVVTA code it says that if you've had an engine swap, it needs one regardless.

My engine makes more power and torque than the factory motor, but less power and torque than the maximum used in a car which the driveshaft comes from, which is a factory part... So plenty strong for the application.

So in that instance, would I still need a driveshaft loop?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

driveshaft- if you have used all stock parts then no you wont need one they are only required when the stock engine has had a substantial increase in power or if a larger/more powerful engine is fitted, or if the driveshaft is modified.

The way I read the LVVTA code it says that if you've had an engine swap, it needs one regardless.

My engine makes more power and torque than the factory motor, but less power and torque than the maximum used in a car which the driveshaft comes from, which is a factory part... So plenty strong for the application.

So in that instance, would I still need a driveshaft loop?

yes you would.

even if you say swapped a vn commodore v6 running gear for factory vn ss v8 including driveshaft etc it would still need a loop according to the rules.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only way around this is written signed evidence from a tyre supplier or manufacturer that the tyre size is suitable for the rim size.

So if I get my tyre supplier to put in writing that a 185/55/14 is safe on a 9.5" rim, a certifier has to pass it???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi clint,

Question regarding fitting seats from another vehicle onto OEM rails.

Passengers seat bolts straight onto the rear mounts of the rails, the fronts are out 5mm - redrilled the rail and re bolted? Is this fine?

The drivers seat however I've used 3mm plate welded onto the OEM rails, which is made to mount via bolts onto the replacements factory mounts? Is this also fine?

Many thanks,Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is an awesome thread idea... keep it open please :) .

is there a rule for engine weight?? . im purely out of interest .. say a td42 patrol/safari motor into maybe i dunno a 260c or a wagon? .

the reason i ask is because these are pretty much small truck engines .. in fact smaller buses use them . but i reckon they would be soo sweet in somthing smaller for tow vehicle awesomeness .

i aslo ask how you go about engine vs brakes .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do i need a driveshaft loop, i have converted my soarer to manual using all stock supra parts.

Good question. How much power gain before a driveshaft loop is needed?

Have a factory motor that put out about 52Bhp factory and does around 110Bhp now. thats over 100% increase in power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers for starting this thread Clint. you might find that you get asked some pretty stupid questions but i suppose its all par for the corse.

it will be very cool to have a definite answer about the sorts of things we talk about on this thread all the time, from someone who is doing this for a job.

oh, and Mark finally rang me back, he's coming over on tuesday. cheers for that.

sheepers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only way around this is written signed evidence from a tyre supplier or manufacturer that the tyre size is suitable for the rim size.

So if I get my tyre supplier to put in writing that a 185/55/14 is safe on a 9.5" rim, a certifier has to pass it???

no, the tyre would still have to be a realistic fitment for that size rim.

plus getting someone to sign something like that would be difficult, it would make them legally responsible if there was an incident caused by the tyre being too small

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi clint,

Question regarding fitting seats from another vehicle onto OEM rails.

Passengers seat bolts straight onto the rear mounts of the rails, the fronts are out 5mm - redrilled the rail and re bolted? Is this fine?

The drivers seat however I've used 3mm plate welded onto the OEM rails, which is made to mount via bolts onto the replacements factory mounts? Is this also fine?

Many thanks,Chris

sounds ok from what you have described, hard to say 100% without seeing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is an awesome thread idea... keep it open please :) .

is there a rule for engine weight?? .

i aslo ask how you go about engine vs brakes .

kind of....the suspension/wheelstuds/hub/xmember etc all has to be strong enough to withstand the weight of a heavier engine

say if you put a iron block v8 in an escort, it would need better brakes so it stops, heavier springs to hold the weight, bigger wheel studs etc...... so in that case you could use something like a commodore or 5 stud silvia strut in the front and solve all problems at once

as far as the brake test goes= more than 50% increase in power over original, needs to do 5 stops from 100-0kph under 4.4 secs in a total time of 3 min.

less than 50% power increase, 3 stops under 4.8 sec in a total time of 2 min.

a td42 with a big turbo would sound cool, like a big truck. would be a good tow car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much power gain before a driveshaft loop is needed?

Have a factory motor that put out about 52Bhp factory and does around 110Bhp now. thats over 100% increase in power.

rule says a "significant increase in power or torque" requires a loop.....

i guess 100% more counts as significant :lol:

thats the sort of thing that comes down to what the certifier thinks, its a bit of a judgement call

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers for starting this thread Clint. you might find that you get asked some pretty stupid questions but i suppose its all par for the corse.

it will be very cool to have a definite answer about the sorts of things we talk about on this thread all the time, from someone who is doing this for a job.

oh, and Mark finally rang me back, he's coming over on tuesday. cheers for that.

sheepers.

no worries!

also,

http://www.lvvta.org.nz has most of the standards required when doing mods.....go down to bottom of the page and go to `technical standards` they are the rules we go by when certifying a vehicle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is an awesome thread idea... keep it open please :) .

is there a rule for engine weight?? .

i aslo ask how you go about engine vs brakes .

kind of....the suspension/wheelstuds/hub/xmember etc all has to be strong enough to withstand the weight of a heavier engine

say if you put a iron block v8 in an escort, it would need better brakes so it stops, heavier springs to hold the weight, bigger wheel studs etc...... so in that case you could use something like a commodore or 5 stud silvia strut in the front and solve all problems at once

as far as the brake test goes= more than 50% increase in power over original, needs to do 5 stops from 100-0kph under 4.4 secs in a total time of 3 min.

less than 50% power increase, 3 stops under 4.8 sec in a total time of 2 min.

a td42 with a big turbo would sound cool, like a big truck. would be a good tow car

right kinda of cut now buuuut , if was a wagon , made for weight would those 5 stud type dealio still be in the game??? , not tyring to pull shit im geniuanly interested .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

at a guess i would say it would be ok..... cant remember what a 260c front end looks like but if the hub assembly is similar size to something like e.g hq holden then it would be plenty strong enough....h series holdens have had big heavy engines jammed in them for years and i cant imagine a td42 weighing more than a big block chev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm looking at 'raising' the chassis rails in one of my cars. So basically, welding a rail above the current one, and then chopping the one underneath out. Of course i will make the rail above the floorpan bigger than the original and tie it into the original rail well at the bulkhead. I am doing this to gain ground clearance as the car currently has ~30mm clearance and raising the rail inside of the cabin will increase this to ~75 to 80mm. The car has unusually low chassis rails which is a pain. Will this be an issue for cert?

Also, with the LVVTA tyre guidelines sheet, it says it is merely a guide to help assist certifiers in determining the correct tyre fitment, so if they were to certify a car not within those guidelines would it be okay? Its been around for a year and it seems only lately have certifiers been hardline on tyre fitment. I have some 13x7's with 175/50 Advan AO48s (which is in reality a 195 treadwidth) and not stretched. The guidelines say i can't get it certed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm looking at 'raising' the chassis rails in one of my cars. So basically, welding a rail above the current one, and then chopping the one underneath out. Of course i will make the rail above the floorpan bigger than the original and tie it into the original rail well at the bulkhead. I am doing this to gain ground clearance as the car currently has ~30mm clearance and raising the rail inside of the cabin will increase this to ~75 to 80mm. The car has unusually low chassis rails which is a pain. Will this be an issue for cert?

id get the certifier who is going to cert it involved before you start, so they know what youre up to/how you are going to do it/materials etc........

as for the tyre size, try to get a size spec sheet for your tyre from the manufacturer, if its within specs then you should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...