David

DIN mount MCB's are good for DC and AC currents. There used to protect DC currents in switchboards all the time. Yes it’s true that on a percentage basis there is lower arks generated when opening and AC current rather than a DC current. This is well known and means a switching component designed for AC is normally dramatically derated when used to switch DC. This however leads to a common assumption that MCB's would need to be derated or not up to job of DC currents. Instead of a derating system, MCB's use a more accurate maximum breaking current rating, plus for many other reasons. Basically if a MCB is rated at 6000 amps breaking it is capable of suppressing a 6000 amp ark regardless if it’s AC or DC current. You just need to calculate a maximum fault current for your automotive system to ensure it will do the job. Well take a 10amp 6000AmpMax DIN mount MCB and wire between the positive and negative of your car battery and keep resetting and see how long it lasts. Once it's too hot and wont reset again, let it cool down and go for it again. You will be there a long time before you wreak it. (Don’t try this at home).

You can always go for the good old demestic DIN mount MCB. Plus there is many sizes of MCB enclosures on the market. They are normaly priced between $5 - $10 each The biggest problem with automotive C/B's is there poor ability to interupt high foult currents with out blowing there guts out. A cheapy will only trip once of twice under a good short. When selecting a C/B you need to take a good look at its maximum rated DC short circuit current. The larger the battery and cable the more current it can give during a short circuit. Add an audio capacitor and look out foult currents.

Well I bet there is plenty of easy replacments about. The problem is when you walk in someware they don't even crack open a book before saying they can't get them. I will give it a look thanks.

I see (one) complete unit for sale on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Other-accessories/auction-316136023.htm The Bearing it'self can be easily removed from the mount. No one has anythings in their books that comes close to it. So has anyone else ever managed to replace these bearings before and got parts within NZ? These bearings tend to be the home of knocking up front in Hunters with over 100,000km's on them and had some gravel road use.

It’s never been a biggie for me. Isn’t it first registered in 1976 the change over for needing rear seat belts. My 1972 Hillman had a damaged rear seat belt and failed a WOF. I just pulled all the rear seat belts out of the back, left the seat in place and got a WOF . The inspector just wrote a note of the sheet. “Damaged belt removed” These cars always had mounting points for belts in the rear, but rear belts were only an optional extra when purchasing the new car. (you had to pay extra for the rear belts to be fitted). If the car is pre 1976 then they have no legs to stand on. Even if the mounting points are there. But otherwise in post 1976 vehicles the WOF inspector is only doing their job and complying with legislation.

Plus If anyone is interested in lowering of the front. There are some differences between a Hillman Hunter and Chrysler Hunter front end. The Chrysler bottom platforms are mounted 30mm lower on the strut. The top platform is also drops down 30mm lower. Taking this into consideration. If you drop a Hillman spring and Hillman top platform onto a Chrysler strut it should sit 30mm lower in the front. Both struts take the same shock inserts. You will note straightaway if you have a Chrysler and Hillman front strut sitting side by side, there differentness. As the bottom platform is a completely different shape. I have no Idea what year they changed the front end. I’m comparing a 1971 Hillman Hunter with a 1976 Chrysler Hunter.

Just for reference on this older post. I just purchased some front gas cartridge inserts for the Hillman hunter front suspensions. Gabriel Part# G44894 (10mm shorter fully extended) Same Body length as standard “direct replacement” They are a perfect fit. But you have to reuse the original captive nut. They are normally for a BMW so are supplied metric parts. The Gas Inserts that came out are part # # 732626 Made in USA P8121 C323 040 *no branding* At a guess maybe Datson 180/200B Once I’ve got the motor running I will post what they ride like.

"] In my 72 I've ended up putting some L200 headlights in and replaced the park light bulb in the headlight-unit with an amber. The headlights are now the indicators. This also upgrades you to H4 lamps. Just depends on who is doing the WOF. Many hot rod guys do it.

I'm just having a similar problem. I guess the reason for a long crank over is just about endless. Currently the old Hillman will crank for half a minute when it’s cold in the morning and then will work like new for the rest of the day. I decided to do a compression test. When cranking the motor over with no plugs in it, #2 cylinder was squirting antifreeze out the sparkplug hole and all up my arm. So put the plugs back in and it work fine now. Compression test is spot on when the motor is hot. Plus no sign or oil in the water or vice versa. The head gasket must of fixed itself or it has a cracked cylinder sleeve is most likely, in my case. So yea could be anything.

Damage with in a (insert amount here) area of a door hinge would be most likely be a no go. If the door catches the sill or guard when it opens, I would be getting it fixed regardless. The U13 bluebird guard is easy to get off and bash into shape. The sill itself doesn’t look that bad. Rather than drilling a hole in the painted area you may even be able to make a hole in the back of the sill and push something through. there may even maybe a factory one around there. The door would be a bit of fun. Should be a speaker hole in the door near to there to get access. Its all lower than the side intrushion bar of the door so you should be able to get in to fix it. Or just find the white door again.

Good luck. A lot of 1951 American Cars didn't have factory indicators. So It would be often up to who ever, to rig a system up at a later date. Does it not flash in both left and right? There is two basic ways I've seen in the past to retro fit a system. 1. Use a double pole/change over type indicator switch 2. Or a single pole indicator switch with a relay atached to it.

Instead of blowing a hand fill of fuse links, ive just used a household circuit breaker, tempory wired in place of the glass fuse when trying to find a foult.

If the Chrysler Avenger wiring is anything like the Chrysler Hunter wiring I have the same problem. The 8A fuse than runs the interia light, glovebox light, boot light and cigar lighter randomly blows. I can have them all running over and over a again and no problems. Then about a month down the track it will just blow? I just go open the glove box or the door one night to find out the aux-lights no longer go. Nasty foult!!!

New question? Got a 1955 Hunter and still has the origonal plates and Rego on hold. The car drives but the body is a bit sad, I'm looking at keeping all gear origonal and just doing body mods. Does the removel of front guards and dropping the roof line require a cert when undertaking this type of work? It was a factory option to by a rolling powered chassie from the factory with no body in the first place. People could use there own body.

LOL the electric pump at the moment is mounted low on the firewall right behind the gas peddle and I can fell it with my right foot all the time, as the peddle is hinged off the floor. I can always feel if I'm running out of fuel with my right foot when the pump starts thumping real hard. It does make a lot of sound but can never hear it once the motor is running.