David

DIN mount MCB's are good for DC and AC currents. There used to protect DC currents in switchboards all the time. Yes it’s true that on a percentage basis there is lower arks generated when opening and AC current rather than a DC current. This is well known and means a switching component designed for AC is normally dramatically derated when used to switch DC. This however leads to a common assumption that MCB's would need to be derated or not up to job of DC currents. Instead of a derating system, MCB's use a more accurate maximum breaking current rating, plus for many other reasons. Basically if a MCB is rated at 6000 amps breaking it is capable of suppressing a 6000 amp ark regardless if it’s AC or DC current. You just need to calculate a maximum fault current for your automotive system to ensure it will do the job. Well take a 10amp 6000AmpMax DIN mount MCB and wire between the positive and negative of your car battery and keep resetting and see how long it lasts. Once it's too hot and wont reset again, let it cool down and go for it again. You will be there a long time before you wreak it. (Don’t try this at home).

You can always go for the good old demestic DIN mount MCB. Plus there is many sizes of MCB enclosures on the market. They are normaly priced between $5 - $10 each The biggest problem with automotive C/B's is there poor ability to interupt high foult currents with out blowing there guts out. A cheapy will only trip once of twice under a good short. When selecting a C/B you need to take a good look at its maximum rated DC short circuit current. The larger the battery and cable the more current it can give during a short circuit. Add an audio capacitor and look out foult currents.

Well I bet there is plenty of easy replacments about. The problem is when you walk in someware they don't even crack open a book before saying they can't get them. I will give it a look thanks.

I see (one) complete unit for sale on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Other-accessories/auction-316136023.htm The Bearing it'self can be easily removed from the mount. No one has anythings in their books that comes close to it. So has anyone else ever managed to replace these bearings before and got parts within NZ? These bearings tend to be the home of knocking up front in Hunters with over 100,000km's on them and had some gravel road use.

It’s never been a biggie for me. Isn’t it first registered in 1976 the change over for needing rear seat belts. My 1972 Hillman had a damaged rear seat belt and failed a WOF. I just pulled all the rear seat belts out of the back, left the seat in place and got a WOF . The inspector just wrote a note of the sheet. “Damaged belt removed” These cars always had mounting points for belts in the rear, but rear belts were only an optional extra when purchasing the new car. (you had to pay extra for the rear belts to be fitted). If the car is pre 1976 then they have no legs to stand on. Even if the mounting points are there. But otherwise in post 1976 vehicles the WOF inspector is only doing their job and complying with legislation.

Plus If anyone is interested in lowering of the front. There are some differences between a Hillman Hunter and Chrysler Hunter front end. The Chrysler bottom platforms are mounted 30mm lower on the strut. The top platform is also drops down 30mm lower. Taking this into consideration. If you drop a Hillman spring and Hillman top platform onto a Chrysler strut it should sit 30mm lower in the front. Both struts take the same shock inserts. You will note straightaway if you have a Chrysler and Hillman front strut sitting side by side, there differentness. As the bottom platform is a completely different shape. I have no Idea what year they changed the front end. I’m comparing a 1971 Hillman Hunter with a 1976 Chrysler Hunter.

Just for reference on this older post. I just purchased some front gas cartridge inserts for the Hillman hunter front suspensions. Gabriel Part# G44894 (10mm shorter fully extended) Same Body length as standard “direct replacement” They are a perfect fit. But you have to reuse the original captive nut. They are normally for a BMW so are supplied metric parts. The Gas Inserts that came out are part # # 732626 Made in USA P8121 C323 040 *no branding* At a guess maybe Datson 180/200B Once I’ve got the motor running I will post what they ride like.

"] In my 72 I've ended up putting some L200 headlights in and replaced the park light bulb in the headlight-unit with an amber. The headlights are now the indicators. This also upgrades you to H4 lamps. Just depends on who is doing the WOF. Many hot rod guys do it.

I'm just having a similar problem. I guess the reason for a long crank over is just about endless. Currently the old Hillman will crank for half a minute when it’s cold in the morning and then will work like new for the rest of the day. I decided to do a compression test. When cranking the motor over with no plugs in it, #2 cylinder was squirting antifreeze out the sparkplug hole and all up my arm. So put the plugs back in and it work fine now. Compression test is spot on when the motor is hot. Plus no sign or oil in the water or vice versa. The head gasket must of fixed itself or it has a cracked cylinder sleeve is most likely, in my case. So yea could be anything.

Damage with in a (insert amount here) area of a door hinge would be most likely be a no go. If the door catches the sill or guard when it opens, I would be getting it fixed regardless. The U13 bluebird guard is easy to get off and bash into shape. The sill itself doesn’t look that bad. Rather than drilling a hole in the painted area you may even be able to make a hole in the back of the sill and push something through. there may even maybe a factory one around there. The door would be a bit of fun. Should be a speaker hole in the door near to there to get access. Its all lower than the side intrushion bar of the door so you should be able to get in to fix it. Or just find the white door again.

Good luck. A lot of 1951 American Cars didn't have factory indicators. So It would be often up to who ever, to rig a system up at a later date. Does it not flash in both left and right? There is two basic ways I've seen in the past to retro fit a system. 1. Use a double pole/change over type indicator switch 2. Or a single pole indicator switch with a relay atached to it.

Instead of blowing a hand fill of fuse links, ive just used a household circuit breaker, tempory wired in place of the glass fuse when trying to find a foult.

If the Chrysler Avenger wiring is anything like the Chrysler Hunter wiring I have the same problem. The 8A fuse than runs the interia light, glovebox light, boot light and cigar lighter randomly blows. I can have them all running over and over a again and no problems. Then about a month down the track it will just blow? I just go open the glove box or the door one night to find out the aux-lights no longer go. Nasty foult!!!

New question? Got a 1955 Hunter and still has the origonal plates and Rego on hold. The car drives but the body is a bit sad, I'm looking at keeping all gear origonal and just doing body mods. Does the removel of front guards and dropping the roof line require a cert when undertaking this type of work? It was a factory option to by a rolling powered chassie from the factory with no body in the first place. People could use there own body.

LOL the electric pump at the moment is mounted low on the firewall right behind the gas peddle and I can fell it with my right foot all the time, as the peddle is hinged off the floor. I can always feel if I'm running out of fuel with my right foot when the pump starts thumping real hard. It does make a lot of sound but can never hear it once the motor is running.

Just a new sub problem. I've noticed in most EFI fuel tanks the fuel pump, level sender, and fuel line and fuel return line all enter through the roof of the fuel tank. In my car they enter through the end of the tank under the floor. I need to get a return line in and wouldn't suit mounting in the roof of the tank as the roof of the fuel tank forms the floor of my boot and any fittings could be damaged by gear in the boot. Was looking at the fuel filler that is attached to the fuel tank with a clamps and a cupple screws into the body work. Instead of welding the tank was looking at just pulling the filler pipe off and welding a tap into it for the fuel return line. No welding or modification of my origonal tank. would put the fuel return line in a well protected area also.

Good feed back. Been walking around the car working it out. Came to the conclushion that there is no protection between the boot space and the cabbin of this car from a exsposive fuel leak. So the engine bay gives a higher level of protection between the people in the car and any leak. This could also be offset by the fact there is more sorces of ingnition up front. There is going to be high pressure fuel lines in the engine bay reguardless of were the serge tank is mounted. The serge tank only has low pressure comming and going anyway. So came to the conclushion I will mount it up front. Its going to be mounted down by the steering box out of the road of dammage and have a cover over it to prevent any fuel accidently getting near the electrical or hot parts. Didn't like the boot idea much. I often throw my mountain bike in the boot and I would just end up stuffing things. Also at the moment I can just close the boot lid if I take the front wheel off my bike and just leave my bike in there all the time. Could be handy if my car busts in the middle of noware. Anyways I still have to run a return line to the main fuel tank.

Pic a Bit small but this has twin climax (hillman type imp motors) joined together to make a U8 http://www.rootes-chrysler.co.uk/car-development/dev-u8.html One motor has to go the wrong way. SIMCA/chrysler did it.

A single pot 2-smoke will do it if you push start your bike backwids. Just doesn't make the same grunt though. The old suzy wont change gear when it's going backwids? Must have the wrong loading in the gear box. It's a good old joke starting the motor wackwids then handing the bike over to someone else. They give the motor a rev and let the clutch out and eat the handle bar. Who said 2-strokes are no fun?

Wouldn’t say it acts like veggie oil? Brake fluid is going to be made of silicon or of a glycol-ether based, I wouldn’t be putting these in my salad. So is easier to explain it in laymen’s terms that it acts like water with an anti corrosive additive. It defiantly isn’t made from taking H20 water and dropping some additive in it as it would just boil in a true breaking environment. However for these types of tests and environment it would have relatively similar environmental properties. I’m sorry as my first statement didn’t express this very well as a likeness and instead could have been misleading. Vege oil would Hydrogenate in a breaking system from the extreme heat and make a real mess of your system, so I would highly recommend no one uses it or water as it would evaporate for that matter.

Aside from this, make sure you build in some fail safes into you design. Even making a custom system out of stainless steel fittings to prevent any corrosion, I would still be skeptical about the person’s safety.

Is it possible for you run some non expensive tests? Drop something down to try it. As already mentioned water cannot be compressed. As far as I know hydraulic brake fluid used in automotive situations is basically water with some anticorrosive additives. So brake fluid would have a slight lighter specific weight compared to salt water. A simple test maybe to fill a small plastic bottle say a soft drink bottle about 330ml with brake fluid with no air. Attach a weight and lower it on a rope to the desired level and then raise it for inspection. A very basic but cheap test. Due to the soft membrane of the container any change in pressure would directly act against the fluid within. Any unequal pressure during this test that courses a rupture, venting or shrinkage of the bottle would most likely guaranty a failure in a hydraulic system using a similar kinetic fluid. It would also be recommended to use an extra bottle for a control and fill it with salt water. (No air) This would test if the plastic bottle was even suitable for test in the first place. I would anticipate that the test would come out fine however the bottle may be slightly shrunken. This would depend on the temperature of the brake fluid at the time when the bottle was sealed. If the ambient and the fluid was about 12degC and the bottle was dropped to 400 feet is would significantly cool the fluid within. At a guess standard DOT4 brake fluid would be at it densest (compact) at about 4.2degC making it shrink. This would likely be so minimal at a volume of 330ml that you couldn’t tell. Over a couple liters of fluid and you may start to see an affect.

The old Chev's and Jag's have the same stud pattern as a Q. Would be interesting to see if a XJ6 series 2, ventilated Jag disk with the four pot Jag callipers would fit up front. would depend on the stub and bearing setup.

Just a bit of a brain storm and getting prepared to change over the EFI. The Hillman fuel tank isn’t well baffled. Anything under half a tank and a sharp corner makes the low pressure pump for my carbs setup go crazy. So Installing EFI isn’t going to make things any better. A serge tank looks the way to go. But I don’t want to fill the boot of my car up with a serge tank and an array of pipes that can be damaged by things rolling around in the boot. So putting the serge tank up front with a high pressure pump in the massively empty engine bay looks a good option. Any reason why not?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G57grtLbhdg Found a youtube with a hillman running no bumpers. The small grilletts in the front look a bit odd.