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All good man shouldnt be 2 much of a problem, i managed to sort the southwards one reasonably quick

i did all the compliance work on the green trabant, the one that is now in southwards, a few years ago, that was running a 12v system, i work at vehicle testing station/wellington vehicle compliance, had to do full rebuild on brakes, get it running, had rust in the floorpan and around the firewall area, needed seatbelts throughout and we had to make a custom plate that was welded in to the rear parcel tray area to accomodate rear seatbelts, had to change the headlight to dip to left and a few other bits have to admit was awesome to go for a cruise round the hutt once we got it all running properly, got sum looks n made me want one haha

different end of the car but i had to replace some rear bushes for the rear diff arms in my 81 ex a couple of years ago and managed to get them brand new from mitsi for reasonably cheap, 30 sumthing trade from memory, so that may be a go, unless you specifically want nolathane?

95% sure they are all front sump mate

to get custom ones made that sounds a fair price of around 1500, your average off the shalf forged pistons would set you back 800 if not more nzd easy so if he got those venolia ones for 800 custom id go for them even know it was 2 month turn around.. but just my 2c

thanks bud gave them a ring they have 1 available so will hava think bout pricing etc

hey guys im after a workshop / lockup in the lower hutt area, preferably want it by myself as i have alot of stuff and need space for the project build/perkjobs anyone know any? something atleast 6x6metres or bigger with power/maybe water let me know andrew 0221049094

to put the 1600 in the 1200 you will have to bolt the engine x member in as the mounts are different, but since you allready have it its a easy job, unsure of the dash wiring side of things but id say from when i had my 1600 gsl ex it had all the gauges in it, so id say youd have to swap looms as the 1200 wont have the extra gauges the 1600 has on the pluys side if you end up doing it and swap the 1600 into it you can then from there go up to the 2 litre 4g63 which will bolt onto the 1600 xmember

id go to howat even if i was in palmy hes a damn good engineer

happens all the time when theyre quiet they go looking for work and fail stupid stuff, ive seen heaps of these same bushes in estimas/ipsums and they allways look like that just surface cracks

if it was me id run it, but as requiemk said if using a 20det loom it wont plug into your 25det computer, id try source a 25det vvt loom man will be the easiest option

seal imports are awesome, i go there to get heaps of different seals for automotive stuff only ever had to get one thing custom made so not a bad range of bits

if all above fails (very unlikely) head down to your local fastening supplies shop with thread pitch and length measurements and ask them for a grade 8 or higher hi tensile bolt to suit, in some cases you may need to run a washer so take that into account when measuring lengths, but go this road if all above fails, im sure arp will do something for you

bieng a gt it will have disc rears and the caliper is also the handbrake yes? id make sure all the caliper slides are working properly and give them a good clean out/grease, maybe work the piston back and forth a couple of times in the caliper to make sure its not sticking. if not there should be a proportioning valve for the rears which is usually located on the firewall follow the rear steel brake line from the master cylinder to the firewall and there should be a valve lookinig thing located there, unsure of how many pipes are coming out of this but i assume 2 one for left and one for right. try removing this and cleaning it out thoroughly as sometimes they get a bit of dirt/silt stuck in there partially blocking it so the brakes will get some but not all the pressure, if that doesnt work id try replacing it with a good one. give it a real good bleed, staring at lr then rr then lf then rf should hopefully be all good after that double check none of your steel lines have taken a hit by debris or been crimped also as that would cause it andrew

farked if im carrying it back across the road haha, thats what i have a van for haha parkers is Custom Autoworks, behind cambridge automotive on cambridge tce in naenae right behind bunnings warehouse down the little drive/alleyway, john will have it

im guessing the block is at parkers? i can pick it up but dont think ill be heading to swap meet

yes id bleed it like it says to man, youl only need to bleed right rear as the fluid for the rear brakes travels through the left rear then goes onto the right rear so there will be another solid pipe coning out of lr cylinder bleed hole and going to rr cylinder sometimes you dont need to bleed the proportioning valve but for piece of mind id do it anyway, hell your under the car allready andrew

now that is f**king gold, mazda needs sum headers so mite give this a go in the mrs oven

yep centre punch and drill man done same thing with starlet rails worked perfect and quick with sharp drillbit

changing the cylinder should fix your brakes no doubt, and is the easiest option by far, i wouldnt worry about going to discs on the rear as you will encounter other problems like proper proportioning, master cylinder sizing etc etc wheel off , drum off , clamp rear rubber brake line, undo wheel cylinder, throw in bin, fit new cylinder, fit drum, unclamp brake line, bleed brake/s, fit wheel, drive, stop, smile

yep facet def good way to go, ran my sohc 4g63 ex lancer with weber 32/36dgav no probs, and also ran my l300 with same motor easy, used one for a lift pump for surge tank setup in my old kp starlet also perfect, yes def rubber mount then as they bit on the noisey side

def go see grotty, top notch gc, hes done a wee bit for me in the past and not a hint of a complaint to date, when you doin twin turbos for the van parks haha

hey guys anyone out there heading fron napier to wellys this weekend i brought sum factory wheels x2 for my mazda was wondering if someone could bring em down have beers of your liking waiting or wine if you are that way inclined haha of cold hard cash? lemme know guys theyre only 13s with 155s on em so not huge no dramas if noones heading down cheers andrew

i rekon best white in the ford range would have to be the arctic white off the ba falcon series, my mazdas painted in this and man its bright in the sun!

some of the power difference will be because the l200 is losing more power with the rwd configuration (drivetrain loss) ie the wheels are closer to the engine in the fwd setup so not as much power is used up trying to turn the wheels, but yes many factors will cause this condition of engine, specs of add on parts etc etc but the basic block and head are the same best thing i ever did to my sigma motor i had in my ex lancer was to put a weber 32/36dgav carb off a mk4/5 cortina went so much better just bolting that (with the adaptor) on and tuning