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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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these are just figures I heard, but a full cage is around 2.5K, and a half cage is around 700.

unsure about you, but 2.5K is about a years worth of savings for me, so it's a tad much.

You should be able to sort something for alot less than that for a basic cage, i dont know about your car specifically but ask Mikuni about who he got his cage from. They have CAD files for thousands of cars and can supply the pre bent pipe for your car, then you need a mate who can weld and boom cheapish cage. That cage you have drawn tied to the winshield framing is a terrible idea

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Contact Playday on Track as they had sorted out a discounted half-cage for mx-5 owners after one of the guys in one rolled at a trackday.

If i remember correctly it was in hamilton also... i don't have any of their old emails that said where anymore sorry.

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What's the legalities & regulations of towing a vehicle ie. with a rope.

E.g. Does the towie have to be a certain length away from the towing vehilce? Does the towie have to have the hazard lights on whilst being towed? Max speeds? ect.

Always wondered what the actual regulations were.

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Also, any requirements as to material for fuel tanks? 1mm Steel ok?

minimum sizes

1.2mm electro galv steel

1.6 allloy

1.0 if its stainless.

Is the size requirement for a driveshaft loop still 50x5 flat 360 deg with 2 bolts on each side?

yep. if you are bolting it thru a panel steel floor then use some big washers on the top side of the floor, the book suggests 50x60 washers. often if you buy a universal loop kit you can use some of the bits trimmed off to use as washers for the top of the floor.

What's the legalities & regulations of towing a vehicle ie. with a rope.

E.g. Does the towie have to be a certain length away from the towing vehilce? Does the towie have to have the hazard lights on whilst being towed? Max speeds? ect.

Always wondered what the actual regulations were.

i have no idea. :lol: its probably in the road code

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hazard lights are worse I recon, key on use indicators if possible

same for tractors I recon (common sense) how do you know where they are indicating IF they have their hazards on???

you should be able to see the rope also, would not exceed 3m gap

disclaimer : none of the above is from any book, just off the top of my head

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"The maximum open road speed for light vehicles towing trailers or towing other motor vehicles is 90km/h, provided that you have a rigid connection between the towed and towing vehicles, such as a towbar, drawbeam or drawbar. If you want to tow using a rope or other non-rigid connection, then the maximum speed on the open road is 50km/h.

Note: These are maximum speeds - drive slower if the conditions require it."

Sounds like you should use the indicators etc like normal in the towed car or use a light board, 4m is the max rope length, pull over and let other cars past on the open road.

Also "# The maximum speed for towing a motorcycle is 30 km/h.

# You must not tow a motorcycle unless it is mechanically disabled."

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does anyone know if there is any way to check what car a dead number plate is off if its so dead its not on car jam? just wanting to figure out if one of the plates I've found is off my car to make it easier when it comes to re-reg time

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Is welding a coilover strut onto a cast steel hub certable (slipped over the tube 50mm), and does it need to be xray tested?

Or should I lift it up 15mm and have it welded to the tube itself, and does this have to be xray tested?

lifting 15mm like you said is how to do it, also i usually recommend 4 10mm holes 40-50mm up, plug weld to original tube. must be TIG welded and NDT (crack tested)

(when you buy BC coilovers for bmws/some toyotas the instructions say to weld to the cast hub. not legal here.)

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Is welding a coilover strut onto a cast steel hub certable (slipped over the tube 50mm), and does it need to be xray tested?

Or should I lift it up 15mm and have it welded to the tube itself, and does this have to be xray tested?



lifting 15mm like you said is how to do it, also i usually recommend 4 10mm holes 40-50mm up, plug weld to original tube. must be TIG welded and NDT (crack tested)

(when you buy BC coilovers for bmws/some toyotas the instructions say to weld to the cast hub. not legal here.)



Woah, so does this mean that if you section your struts by cutting 30mm out half way up the tube and welding the top and bottom tubes together you must TIG weld and NDT?

th_photo2-1.jpg

Also, if your threaded tube slips over your strut and rests on a welded ring it too must be TIG and NDT?

th_photo7-1.jpg

If so, I'm fucked.

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I have a question. probably a crazy one. i want to change the stud pattern on the back of the 7. (read as rear wheel drive) whats the legal/safe way to do so.... if such a way even exists... cant find a definative answer online ( dont say use a s3 rear end or hub adaptors, need to keep offset the same)

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couple of quick questions:

I have a 73 toyota ke26 wagon, quite original with 12" wheels and 155/80/12 tyres. i like the style of the current wheels with trim rings and whitewall tyres.

I am toying with the idea of putting a 4age in (but running k50 gearbox), really just as an upgrade over the clunker 4k, not for doing skids etc, just cruising. i have almost all the parts i need.

I want to know what peoples thoughts are whether i would pass a cert with standard brakes (or upgraded) but still running the 12" wheels? obviouslt cant really increase brake size with the 12" rims...

I have had trouble finding any rim/tyre combos with the classic whitewall look in 13".

Also i am thinking about putting 1 rear seatbelt in (had no belts from factory), to hold a kiddie seat. Does anyone know of any good places that would do this in auckland. And would this require cert as well?

cheers

Dan

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