crazy_rich

Yeah it is a shame to be in this position. It should go together quite easily once its painted. Unfortunately I just don't see myself having the time.

Here's a link to the long abandoned discussion thread. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/19796-crazy-richs-v8-capri/?hl=capri

I finally got it rolling! and I baremetalled it! Its coated in kephos in the pics, to stop it from rusting. I've spend a lot of time on this over the last year to get it to this stage ready for painting. Unfortunately I dont know what happened to many of my photos. I changed the front brakes, to skyline R33 fronts with au rotors on XY hubs, then changed the back brakes to sw20 to keep the piston diameter in the rear about 50% of the front, I also installed a brake bias valve in the rear line for a bit of adjustablity. I also revised my pedalbox to add some more strength and increase the pedal ratio up to about 4.3:1 up from 3.2:1. strut brace. I reinforced in behind the heater bubble, its nice and solid. I also made an exhaust, made a new surge tank that fits under the car, mounted up a fuel system, fuel lines etc, finished the chassis rail kit, with integrated driveshaft loop, painted the underside, and put all the suspension in with new bushes, new strut tops and a 24mm swaybar. The main reason I'm updating the thread after so long is because I've finally accepted that I don't have the time, money or passion left to finish this, and I will be offering it up for sale, I'm not really too sure how to go about selling off a project like this. I have a figure in mind that I'd like to recover (though still at a loss), whether I have to part it out to get it depends on how much value anyone else places on what has already been done. So if anyone is keen to take over and finish this, or wants a very solid Capri that has already been cut up a bit to turn into their own vision of a v8 capri monster, get in touch. Cheers - Rich.

I finally got it rolling! and I baremetalled it! Its coated in kephos in the pics, to stop it from rusting. I've spend a lot of time on this over the last year to get it to this stage ready for painting. Unfortunately I dont know what happened to many of my photos. I changed the front brakes, to skyline R33 fronts with au rotors on XY hubs, then changed the back brakes to sw20 to keep the piston diameter in the rear about 50% of the front, I also installed a brake bias valve in the rear line for a bit of adjustablity. I also revised my pedalbox to add some more strength and increase the pedal ratio up to about 4.3:1 up from 3.2:1. strut brace. I reinforced in behind the heater bubble, its nice and solid. I also made an exhaust, made a new surge tank that fits under the car, mounted up a fuel system, fuel lines etc, finished the chassis rail kit, with integrated driveshaft loop, painted the underside, and put all the suspension in with new bushes, new strut tops and a 24mm swaybar. The main reason I'm updating the thread after so long is because I've finally accepted that I don't have the time, money or passion left to finish this, and I will be offering it up for sale, I'm not really too sure how to go about selling off a project like this. I have a figure in mind that I'd like to recover (though still at a loss), whether I have to part it out to get it depends on how much value anyone else places on what has already been done. So if anyone is keen to take over and finish this, or wants a very solid Capri that has already been cut up a bit, to turn into their own vision of a v8 capri monster, get it touch. Cheers - Rich.

Make sure you check your tyre pressures are even before you get too carried away tearing shit apart.

All 4 cylinder mk1 Capri's had english axles. So unless that car was a v6, or has had a v6 diff swapped in the head will be interchangeable with an escort one. It will not be stronger however, though I have heard claims the 3.5:1 GT diff heads possess stronger bearings. True? maybe. I'm sure you know, but english diff's are front loading, atlas are rear loading. If that car does have an atlas, and the wheels aren't sticking out the guards its worth good coin.

I concur with the above 4 posts. I like what you did with the front end, very chur.

I've fixed the driveshaft UJ vs floor problem, though unfortunately it was one of those wonderful problems that snowballed once I realised I only had 35mm of driveshaft travel with the car unladen/ stripped. So i cut the tunnel out, removed the centre bearing mounts, straightened the tunnel out and welded it back in 25mm higher. So with the tunnel straight and the extra 25mm strip down the side the diff can move about 70mm, which should be sweet. Have some pics. took the opportunity to slap a nissan handbrake on the tunnel while it was out as well. I'll be fully welding everything tomorrow, its just always nice to share photos during the tacking phase, everything just looks so much neater. Cheers - Rich.

Dude, looking awesome! you must be stoked to have it rolling eh? especially with your shed flooding etc... thats gotta get old fast.

Well its been a busy few months having finally found a new house & having to pack up all my shit and move, but last week I finally dusted off the capri and started swinging some spanners. I decided to have another go at doing a basic coilover setup in the front, with tyre clearance being a major constraint. I dont want to have to piss around moving spring perches or getting custom springs wound to maintain ride height while I'm dialing in the spring rate. I got chamberlains to get the struts shortened, welded and supply some shocks, kinda wish I'd done it myself in retrospect but hey its done, and it didnt take much futher machining to actually work. + they passed NDT= choice! I then made the camber plates fit & work. Next up is brakes and a swaybar to complete the front end. Have a terrible pic. or 2. I'll be grabbing some nylocs next time im at blacks and I'll machine some flats on the shock to aid disassembly. Can also see my sweet reservoir holder. It holds the reservoirs. Bit of a bullshit update really. Driving the Cortina around is making me want to get this thing going more and more. Maybe 2012 is the year? Cheers - Rich.

It was good to finally hit up a meet, cheers guys. Thanks for the beer Andy, and Felixx for the chups. See you all next time!

I have done this before to some willwoods. Just need to make sure to remachine the o ring grooves right and you're away laughing. Do the gtr calipers have longer mounts on them to accomodate the larger rotor? This is what prevented me from using some of them on my capri as I couldnt physically fit them between the strut and the wheel.

What mongol said. Plus if its been done twice in a rebuilding sense it will have only had 20-30 thou taken off it. I wouldnt be scared of taking another 10- 20 thou off it again. I doubt the valves run that close.

Check your tire pressures are all even before you go pulling shit apart.

Is the size requirement for a driveshaft loop still 50x5 flat 360 deg with 2 bolts on each side?

Christ thats got to piss ya off.

Sweet ill flick ya a txt

If its just plugging everything back up and making it all go I'm keen to give you a hand, I'd imagine it will all be very similar to my capri (which ive had in and out a few times) being the same dash.

Is it a borg warner 35? if so it should use type F trans fluid. Anything else, like dextron etc doesnt work at the same temp and will burn your bands out. I've got a BW 35 in my cortina, I had it checked over a few years back with new bands filter clutch etc. Cost just shy of $500 as an indication.

Done a few wee things I thought I'd share. Had a driveshaft made up the other week, it fits well, though it certainly confirms the need for some rear end tunnel modifications. As you can blurrily see the oversize land cruiser UJ actually hits the inside of the tunnel. Its nothing I can't fix with the grinder, some steel and the welder, though im not sure about what to do with the seatbelt mount. Legally cars first rego'd before November 1979 dont need to run rear belts, but I feel its the kind of car that needs them. I'll have to have a look into the rules and regulations surrounding seatbelt mount repostioning. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Otherwise I've started looking at the front suspension. I'm going to keep it simple with adjustable platforms, 65id springs, uprated swaybar, probably 24mm, and some flash shocks. Urethane throughout of course. I've also got some adjustable camber plates I made up years ago to add to the mix. I splashed out and bought all the new bushes and ball joints etc I'd need for the front end. I also got new bushes installed into the rear tramp rods, so I'll be able to weld the brackets for those to the diff now. Managed to find some xy falcon hubs to modify to fit the capri struts too. I wanted to strengthen the crossmember and fix the dented up mess on the underside caused by years of poorly placed bottle jacks and vice jaws, so I cut out a bit of 5mm plate and welded it on top. I feel as though I can lend alot more confidence towards its strength now. I also finished welding the engine mounts on. So this week ill rip into those struts, paint a few things up and take another leap towards getting her rolling. Cheers for your time- Rich

So you're running escort struts with a starlet steering rack? Whats your ackerman angle like? Have you run that past your certifier? In other news, I'm getting my capri's struts cut up in the next week or so to make them low, that might entail going to a 65id spring. If it does I'll get them to keep hold of the old spring seats. I'll keep you posted.

there used to be one in cashmere, down by the river. shitty little thing. god knows if its still there. had a sweet jump over the fence to get out.

I voted wednesday/ thursday, but really whatever etc. fuck ive been a member for 6 years and hardly met any of yah, what a sad cunt eh.

I'd say the drivers side is either old and sagged/ cracked somewhere. You could whip em out and get them reset evenly at a local spring shop. Have you checked to make sure your bushes are in good nick? your car could drop if one has collapsed.

R j patterson could be worth a go, fairly sure that part of town is up and running. Or Otbury Refinish Solutions http://yellow.co.nz/companies/Panel-Bea ... _1249.html