rebel county Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 would you fail a WOF is you replace the standard light bulb with an led bulb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 They must be relatively even side to side - so if you replace BOTH I can't see an issue providing the bulbs work as they should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebel county Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 cheers kk-k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Will have to get a cert for my recline bucket seats? The old passengers seat was bolted to the base (I had to drills new holes on the base to fit the new passenger seat) and the old drivers seat has a rail on one side. Can I grind off that rail and bolt on the new drivers seat? The two seats are bolted to the orginial bolt holes just behind the seats. Cheers. if they are a bolt in, on to your original seat mounts/rails and the seatbelt buckles are not affected you wont need a cert. Of more interest is can you fix that yourself if you do a good job of it, or "must" it have some piece of paper from a registered to some unknown organisation or other panelbeater ? Yea how can i rectify it? havent taken it in for a wof(not planning on it until I get the engine in but I will net to get it certfied). Will I be able get a panel beater to straighten it out and/or conceal ? or will I need to take it in to a specialist with one of those chassis rail straightener thingys? If so what are the prics like (I assume an arm and a leg for that stz)? you can fix it yourself. if the wof inspector has doubts about the repair he can request a letter from someone(panelbeater etc) hard to tell from the pics how bad it is....is the rail actually bent or has it been damaged by a jack or tiedown or something. if its bent then better go see a panelbeater. any good panel shop should be able to straigten it out Is there any rule stipulating what material a drive/tail shaft can be made of? I know that in order for it to pass muster it must be inspected and balanced (if required) by a driveshaft specialist, but my question is, can i use 304 stainless seamless tube for the actual driveshaft body? It is thicker wall section than the original and is seamless so must be stronger yeah? rule says it must be made from "tubing of a material specification appropriate for a drive shaft". so if its stronger, and you can weld the stainless tube to the steel yokes successfully then it should be fine. They must be relatively even side to side - so if you replace BOTH I can't see an issue providing the bulbs work as they should. this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taistorm Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks Cletus for clarifying! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 What's the deal with engine swaps in 4wds regarding driveshaft loops? My mate has a Hilux with a supercharged 3sge (which bolts up to the factory 4wd gearbox) and just wondering which d-shaft/s need loops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 My mate had to put one in his landcruiser with the ls2 even with the standard gearbox/driveline otherwise. although that is a much bigger power upgrade/3x the original diesel before he supercharged the ls2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Did just the rear driveshaft need a loop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 hey Cletus, ive got a pair of sparco fixed back race seats in my cortina.theyre bolted onto factory tina seat rails,the rear holes are bolted directly to the seat,but front ones on seat are about 3 inches towards back compared to front holes on cortina rails.i have brackets i made so i didnt have to modify factory rails(its ghia so may want to refit stock seats),they bolt onto seat then run forward to rail hole,do i need cert for the seats beacuse of this?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Did just the rear driveshaft need a loop? yeah just the rear. with cruiser gearbox there is no centre diff so 4x4 is only on loose surfaces/offroad/slower speeds. if you have fulltime 4wd then maybe you might need a front one too? although I dont know how if you have a solid front axle as the diff goes up and down too much to practically fit a hoop + theres probably nothing decent to bolt/weld it to since it would be under the sump probably Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks, will let him know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 probably worth waiting for cletus to confirm about the front one. rear ones not going to hurt to put in regardless and is not too difficult Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 hey Cletus,ive got a pair of sparco fixed back race seats in my cortina.theyre bolted onto factory tina seat rails,the rear holes are bolted directly to the seat,but front ones on seat are about 3 inches towards back compared to front holes on cortina rails.i have brackets i made so i didnt have to modify factory rails(its ghia so may want to refit stock seats),they bolt onto seat then run forward to rail hole,do i need cert for the seats beacuse of this?? probably not. if its strong and bolted to the original holes you should be ok. Did just the rear driveshaft need a loop? yeah just the rear. with cruiser gearbox there is no centre diff so 4x4 is only on loose surfaces/offroad/slower speeds. if you have fulltime 4wd then maybe you might need a front one too? although I dont know how if you have a solid front axle as the diff goes up and down too much to practically fit a hoop + theres probably nothing decent to bolt/weld it to since it would be under the sump probably yep 4x4 only need a loop on the rear shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Will this get a cert or have I fucked myself. I still have the rears to do... Build thread: http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=27264 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 looks fine to me. that part of the tower will be quite strong (double skinned and near the edges) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 looks fine to me. that part of the tower will be quite strong (double skinned and near the edges) That's good to hear. The old fuddy-duddies on another forum thought I'd cut way to much out. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karmagedon Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hey cletus, what's the deal with welding support to frame rails. They aren't poked, just want to make them stronger. Does a certified welder need to do it? Or can a competent one be allowed? Also, does this need certing or anything? Thanks heaps for this services you are offering by the way. It seems to have helped HEAPS of people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 can be done, just needs to be welded by a competent welder, does need cert. i put some bars to tie the front and rear rails together in my car it made a noticeable difference - when its jacked up on one corner the doors open and shut now haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS5620 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Can I please have some clarification on the Cat Converter need. I was under the impression that you need one for a cert if engine transplant done after 1st may 2010 or if your engine is newer then 197X?? or something abut if original engine never had one!! .. I have a Bluetop rwd 4age and not sure if i need one, I have put my engine in before 1st may 2010 (have my project build and should beable to find auto electrics guys receipt to prove this). But are only nearly ready for a cert now. Do I need a cat converter or emissions test when I go for my cert?? I went to the exhaust shop to see how much a cat converter. Never got a exact price but an expensive estimate. The guys there said something about if I get a mechanic or have proof that engine was in before may 2010 I wont need a cat anyways. I would rather this as I dont really want to fork out the cost of a new catty converter haha Still in the process of finding who does the certs in Blenhiem (do i have to go to welly or chch??) so havnt rang anyone directly, though I would ask here first. Cheers Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 if the engine AND the car was originally equipped with a cat then it needs one unless you can prove it was fitted prior to 1/5/10. what sort of car is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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