CaMpylobacter Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 are you able to register a ~6-7000kg GVM vintage truck as 3490kg GVM and run it on wofs if it's being used primarily as a classic type dealio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 please please please i hope you can. We were looking at a bedford cf jumbo a while back but it was on a cof. Walked away- not paying 115 bucks each time it needs a cof ! Guy selling it reckoned you can get them downrated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 OK- took Viva for Woof pre cert and was told by testers there that my wheels might not get a cert. They usually deal with Don Hoff there and apparently he doesn't like widened steels, wants them stripped, x ray tested etc etc. I've just been out for a test drive in Viva after tightening hub bearings. I drove to blenheim car parts and while showing Geoff the car he spotted the wheels and said " ohhh you won't get them certed, it'll be a pain and they'll want to strip them every time its for a warrant cause they can crack where they are welded etc. Lots of sucking through teeth... Hmmm what to do? Anyone on this here forum with widened steels had any problems? Should I just swap them everytime I go for a wof - put on my old 13 x 4.5" wheels. Would the police spot them as being widened? If so I'll need another set of bloody tyres Anyone know what Wayne Martin is like on widened steels? Billy and his mate reckon that the fella who I was going to get it cert'd through, Kendall Bradley, works through Don Hoff so thats no bloody good. I'd rather get it all cert'd and keep it legit then have to piss about swapping them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 trucks reg as light vehicles- i dont know tbh. best speak to someone at NZTA about that one, i think you can reg a campervan as a light vehicle if its over 3.5 tonne but dont know what the regs are. wide steels, can be certed, if they are an old modification that you dont know who did them, then they should be stripped/checked/crack tested for cert, other option is supply a reciept from a reputable place that did the widening . its not a case of "X" certifier not liking them, its on the wheels checksheet we have to fill out. once the car is certed you dont have to check them again at every wof or anything like that. if they are welded properly theres no reason for them to crack where they are widened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 OK- so where can I get them tested? What's involved in the testing- ie is it a visual thing or do they actually x ray them. Or use dye. Anywhere in Nelson? Or can I get my old workplace, Cuddon engineering, to have an engineer look over them tick them off? Would that suffice? What a bloody ball ache! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 dye penetrant test usualy fine. the person doing the test has to have a certain qualification which i cant remember off the top of my head. have a chat to kendall and he will tell you what he needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H05TYL Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Would these fabricated knuckles be able to be certified? Would they need to be x-rayed/otherwise tested? They're made from scratch in the UK (not modified factory parts), and mount the hub 50mm higher (relative to the chassis) than stock. more info here: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/car-parts/suspension/steering/driftworks-geomaster-hubs.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 would need TAC approval. might be a good idea to go on the lvvta forum and ask there before buying them, the guy that runs the forum runs the TAC meetings, they may have been talked about before http://lvvta.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 yep thats fine cletus for president. Super usefull bloke to have around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Am i right in thinking you can remove rear seats as long as you also remove the belts? Just wondering what i can take out in terms of weight reduction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 when i did it you just remove everything and some guys like you to plug the bolt holes. at next wof they're meant to change it to 2 seater or some crap but that rarely happens. piece of piss. never had any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 cletus: what's the deal with seatbelt mounts. my car from factory has them mounted on top of the folded sheet metal sliding rails. read: flimsy. I've got my own 4mm angle iron fixed rails. seatbelt buckle is mounted to that. the rest is standard. IMO, and the opinion of 3 wof guys previous, much stronger than factory (never had probs getting it wofd sans cert). would this go through cert or am I best adding some to the tunnel. if so, what's the regime for a plate and captive nut underneath the floorpan for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Am i right in thinking you can remove rear seats as long as you also remove the belts? Just wondering what i can take out in terms of weight reduction. yes seats and belts can be removed without a cert. cletus: what's the deal with seatbelt mounts. my car from factory has them mounted on top of the folded sheet metal sliding rails. read: flimsy. I've got my own 4mm angle iron fixed rails. seatbelt buckle is mounted to that. the rest is standard. IMO, and the opinion of 3 wof guys previous, much stronger than factory (never had probs getting it wofd sans cert). would this go through cert or am I best adding some to the tunnel. if so, what's the regime for a plate and captive nut underneath the floorpan for this? got a pic? if the angle iron is bolted to the original seat mounts, and the buckle is mounted straight to the angle iron, should be sweet if its in the right position ie not too far foward. if need be the lvv standard is here- http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... orages.pdf page 22 onwards for doubler plate requirements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael0008 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 hey got some brembos to fit on my hubs and was going to make adapter plates for them ,was wondering what the rules are for the thickness of the metal ect for the adapters cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 got a pic? if the angle iron is bolted to the original seat mounts, and the buckle is mounted straight to the angle iron, should be sweet if its in the right position ie not too far foward. if need be the lvv standard is here- http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... orages.pdf page 22 onwards for doubler plate requirements no pic right now, but, yeah. angle iron bolts to seat mounts on floor. seat belt buckle bolts in similar spot to factory one but on the angle iron. cheers for link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS5620 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 OK- so where can I get them tested? What's involved in the testing- ie is it a visual thing or do they actually x ray them. Or use dye. Anywhere in Nelson? Or can I get my old workplace, Cuddon engineering, to have an engineer look over them tick them off? Would that suffice?What a bloody ball ache! Could try Safe Air at Woodbourne, they do heaps of NDT. Not sure about private jobs but worth an ask!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Good idea. Its worth asking. I did a weeks work experience there many many years back and they all seemed nice enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 hey got some brembos to fit on my hubs and was going to make adapter plates for them ,was wondering what the rules are for the thickness of the metal ect for the adapterscheers depends on the design of the bracket. there is no minimum thickness- did you have an idea of what you were going to use? is the bracket going to be straight/flat or is the caliper offset from the hub mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 will soon be getting around to redoing my chassis rail mods (gone rusty from being neglected) whats the deal with me re-making a section of rail ie you can see ive chopped a bit out and will be making it a different shape from some rhs, will be sleeved, but and plug (hehehe) welded does this shit need testing or will heaps of photos before painting be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 are you able to register a ~6-7000kg GVM vintage truck as 3490kg GVM and run it on wofs if it's being used primarily as a classic type dealio? found out some info about this. camper up to 3750kg can be on WOF instead of COF dunno if theres any exemptions for classic, or vintage trucks though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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