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They are usually just held in with one of these spring clips on the inside. Disconnect the rod that connects the barrel to the catch, then pry the clip out then the lock will come out.

Assuming it lasts longer than 6 months?

porsche rollcages= if you fitted a factory cage to one, it would need auth card. a new one factory optioned i believe would be ok without because its oe equipment. would have to find out to be 100% on that though..... Thanks for the answers. Though how would a wof inspector (or anyone else) know when the cage was installed?

Porsche offers a bolt in full roll cage (with harnesses) as an option on GT2 and GT3 model 911's, I believe being these are factory parts they don't require an msnz authority card to be road legal? If the cage was bought from Porsche and installed at a later date (say to a 2009 car) would it still be legal without an authority card? On a semi related note: Do TRD (Toyota Racing Development) parts sold/fitted to a new car by a toyota dealer count as factory option parts? ie: if you optioned your new GT86 with TRD height adjustable coilovers would it need certification?

If you'd done any of that and not gained 20% more power something would be seriously wrong! Fake edit: I know external wastegates don't increase power themselves, but reducing the turbulence caused by wastegate gases re-joining the exhaust flow right at the turbine exit (90% of factory setups) makes a significant difference to exhaust restriction and thus, power.

Might be a good idea to rig up an alarm that goes off in the house when the door is opened or something. If they hadn't left the door open after taking the car I wouldn't have even noticed the damn thing was gone...

Have just noticed they also took my 3/4hp ryobi bench grinder, as well as a complete spare cylinder head I had sitting on the bench and an evo intercooler, oh yeah and my toolbox was in the car. Biggest ball ache is I now have to move all the rest of my shit up to the house.

Stolen from Wilton in Wellington. (will update location thingy now) Has only been running since last weekend - no plates on it, rego is on hold but I wasn't planning to use it on the road again. Road is pretty busy, probably 50+ cars and several buses went past whilst I was taking pics. Movers were helping my neighbour move stuff out of his garage on Saturday, will find out what moving co they were from. Car was locked and alarmed inside a locked garage - also had steering wheel removed, oh and the starter is poked so it needs a good twat with a hammer before it'll go. Added to the fact the car is damn loud i'm wondering if they towed it away rather than drove it.

My vr4 was stolen from my garage last night. Padlock was ripped off the door - doesn't look like anything else was taken, just the car. Pictures were taken on sunday: God knows why anyone but me would want this heap... Anyone hears anything call the police: 04 381 2000 ref: 011011561

Join car club, get log book, should allow you to run a more agressive alignment shouldn't it? Because racecar.

Wilwood dynalight's are much more compact than superlights, probably more likely to get them to fit under 13's

Mould release agent soaked into the outer layer of the tyre perhaps?

Ideally you want an air gap between the source of the heat and the shield, and another air gap between the shield and whatever it is protecting. It's not cheap, but these flexible sheets are brilliant.

Intercoolers plumbed in series... interesting, I'd have thought they'd be plumbed in parallel. It's not quite clear in that diagram, but all the properly ducted intercoolers (and radiators, oil coolers, etc) I've seen in production Audi's, Porsche's, etc have the inlet to the duct only 1/3rd to 1/2 the size of the core itself so the airflow slows through the core (more time for heat transfer to occur? lower pressure/temperature?) then the exit duct rapidly narrows to 1/3rd or 1/2 the size of the core to speed airflow before it exits the vehicle.

Re-drilling strut towers to suit different suspension, would the original holes need to be welded up to get a cert? (and would it be the same if one of the holes wasn't adjoining an original hole?). Looks odd in the pic because the opening is oval, but the positioning of the strut fore-aft is the same as the original suspension.

Would these fabricated knuckles be able to be certified? Would they need to be x-rayed/otherwise tested? They're made from scratch in the UK (not modified factory parts), and mount the hub 50mm higher (relative to the chassis) than stock. more info here: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/car-parts/suspension/steering/driftworks-geomaster-hubs.html

Motorsport NZ's reg's are here http://www.motorsport.org.nz/assets/MotorSport-Manual/App-2.02-Sch-A-2010.pdf Even if you're not looking to compete it's a good idea to follow them, you might end up wanting to compete at a later date, and it saves having to change things. Plus safety is good.

Yep vtnz will tell you to gtfo if you cant get over the iron as its 100mm and their height guide for lowering I had a prob with this a while back, tester was fat as fuck I just went away and pumped the tires upto 38458575psi and drove it over the pit myself (fat fuck had stalled it 6 times when I first took it in so he didn't argue).

Yup, sad but true.

ie: 2JZ swap followed by JZX100 chassis swap.

I've been keen to try a compound setup on my 4G63 for a while now, but I've not been able to get hold of an SC14 yet. Once I manage to find one I'll prove it's awesome (or not).

For a given (inlet manifold) boost level a compound setup (where the turbo and supercharger are working at lower pressure ratio's (close to peak efficiency)) will heat the air less than either type of compressor on it's own, or both working in parallel. The higher the boost level the greater the difference. Cooler charge temp = less prone to detonation. Depending on the original compression ratio, and the fuel you plan to use (amongst other things) you may not need to lower the compression. That said often the gains from running more boost will cancel out the losses from dropping the cr a touch anyway. If you can get it, run Gull Force 10. If it's just a fun car (not a daily), get some ethanol and mix up your own E30. Pray that one day we'll get E85 at the pump over here - 30+psi on 9:1 cr quite happily.

The limited VE of the supercharger isn't a problem with a compound setup though. The volume of air that passes through it is the same as when the inlet is not pressurised, but the MASS of air that passes through it is increased because the turbo has already pressurised it. Like Tom said a roots blower pretty much just takes whats on one side and pumps it to the other side. You don't need to spin the f*ck out of the supercharger, gear it to make 7psi, it'll be happy, then get a medium sized turbo (3076R or similar) to pump 15psi into it to get an inlet manifold pressure of ~28psi whilst heating the air less than you would with the turbo on it's own making 28psi

I've just read through that whole thread over the weekend. I've come to the conclusion bypassing the supercharger is not only unnecessary but even a bad idea, a turbocharged engine has higher exhaust manifold pressure than inlet manifold pressure, so there is a lack of decent scavenging. With a supercharger AND a turbocharger the inlet manifold pressure is always higher than the exhaust manifold pressure, so there is much less contamination of the next cycles fuel/air mixture = more power for a given boost level. Plus compounding lets you run lots of boost whilst keeping both compressors closer to where they are most efficient.

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