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ivan: use a 720 datsun divorced transfer case to be able to roll part time 4wd and win at everything?

this is what we rock in my mates franken suzuki. have a rubber donut from an old 280E merc between the borgwarner65 behind the p76 motor and the nissan/datsun transfer case.

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not entirely sure what a divorced case is?

the issue is that my box will be longer than the std Lada box. the way it works on a Niva is that the rear of gbox is pretty much straigh into the transfer case with a short coupling between. longer box means having to re-mount the TC further back and shorten rear shaft AND lengten fornt shaft (which I wouldnt enjoy per se) OR get rid of it. getting a different TC adapted would be as much hassle I think.

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will be finishing pulling the lot out this weekend and suss the feasibility of that.

Also researching adopting a CAS and coils to replace the dizzy setup, there are some options online with maybe using an aftermarket controller of some sort and/or going for a south african brand ECUs which are cheap cheap online, will see distributors today for prices here vs. ordering online

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not entirely sure what a divorced case is?

the issue is that my box will be longer than the std Lada box. the way it works on a Niva is that the rear of gbox is pretty much straigh into the transfer case with a short coupling between. longer box means having to re-mount the TC further back and shorten rear shaft AND lengten fornt shaft (which I wouldnt enjoy per se) OR get rid of it. getting a different TC adapted would be as much hassle I think.

divorced = transfer case not bolted to the gearbox, sounds like the lada is divorced just with a very close coupling. suzukis and old datsuns/nissans are similar. most later and larger stuff has the transfer bolted to the back end of the gearbox.

you could investigate if suzuki sj410/413 transfers or nissan/datsun transfers are shorter than the lada one to take up the additional gearbox length. although I would be guessing no. also the input/output on those transfers are probably in the wrong place as the lada has irs and the front diff is in the centre (I think?) as those transfers will have an offset front output (maybe even offset rear as well on the suzuki?)

shortening and lengthening of driveshafts sounds like the simplest solution. Also remember you may need to alter diff mounting angles to get your driveshaft angles back to where they should be depending on how much further back it is shifted/if the lada is lifted etc. etc. etc.

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what are the requirements for making your own fuel tank?

can you use aluminum or is it just stainless steel/steel?

couldn't find any tech sheets on it on the LVVTA site.

it would be a "drop tank" style thing, thats the only room i have for more volume.

Also, any requirements as to material for fuel tanks? 1mm Steel ok?

minimum sizes

1.2mm electro galv steel

1.6 allloy

1.0 if its stainless.

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Re-drilling strut towers to suit different suspension, would the original holes need to be welded up to get a cert? (and would it be the same if one of the holes wasn't adjoining an original hole?).

Looks odd in the pic because the opening is oval, but the positioning of the strut fore-aft is the same as the original suspension.

2009_0127VR4s0021.jpg

if it was me id weld them up

strength wise its not a big deal it just looks a bit rough

or put a strut brace on it to cover it up........

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a couple questions i was hoping someone (Cletus?) can halp with.

1 - whats the dealio with cutting a hole in the firewall to fit a dizzy? I assume it would need to be boxed in on the inside of car?

2 - is it all good to convert 4wd to RWD and leave front diff and cvs in place?

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also needs baffling, either internal walls or foam. needs to be mounted strong enough to take extra weight, if its less than 200mm from the ground it will need a bash guard.

you will also need hotwires and flares and a 308, maaaate

5976215810_0467c5f5e6.jpg

thanks mate.

ill get on the lookout for some hotwires......

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a couple questions i was hoping someone (Cletus?) can halp with.

1 - whats the dealio with cutting a hole in the firewall to fit a dizzy? I assume it would need to be boxed in on the inside of car?

2 - is it all good to convert 4wd to RWD and leave front diff and cvs in place?

fire wall- thats fine if its boxed/as strong as it was before. theres not a lot of strength in the middle of the firewall anyway.

4wd to rwd is also ok. sometimes doesnt even need cert ie if its a live axle front like a patrol ect and the driveshaft is removed, its no different to the t/case being in 2wd

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a couple questions i was hoping someone (Cletus?) can halp with.

1 - whats the dealio with cutting a hole in the firewall to fit a dizzy? I assume it would need to be boxed in on the inside of car?

2 - is it all good to convert 4wd to RWD and leave front diff and cvs in place?

fire wall- thats fine if its boxed/as strong as it was before. theres not a lot of strength in the middle of the firewall anyway.

4wd to rwd is also ok. sometimes doesnt even need cert ie if its a live axle front like a patrol ect and the driveshaft is removed, its no different to the t/case being in 2wd

I was under the impression you had to have a cert just to remove the drive shaft

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another one of them changes they sneak in? good news for all us Subaru boys!
4wd to rwd is also ok. sometimes doesnt even need cert ie if its a live axle front like a patrol ect and the driveshaft is removed, its no different to the t/case being in 2wd
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