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  1. 85 points
    Gearbox time. As mentioned in the last post I was pretty set on using a Subaru Transaxle. I could also have entertained an Audi unit or perhaps a Renault 21 item but they are harder to find and more expensive. Subarus are everywhere! So way before I had found a engine to buy I started looking. Now initially it was a Legacy front wheel drive trans that I was looking for but when I realised that early Leones also came out as front wheel drive with a smaller lighter 5 speed Transaxle they got added to the list. Not as easy to find though! Then one day a leone boot lid popped up local to me on my Trade me favourite search. I contacted the seller on the off chance that he might have a box. He did. In fact he had two. A early 1600 item and a later 1600/1800 unit. So we went for a drive and paid him a visit and what a thoroughly top fella he turned out to be. A mechanic by trade, ran a local garage before retiring and now works from home on locals cars. However its what he does in his past time that was really interesting. He has been building small hover craft for years and became well known for building one with wings that could fly.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhGN4gFYPLk But I digress. He had some boxes because he had been using subaru engines for his hovercraft. So I bought a couple of boxes (one which came with a 1600cc subaru engine attached) , two starter motors, an 1800 ring gear. All for bugger all because I think he just liked the nuttiness of my plans for the Imp. So here is a box. The earlier 1600 in the small casing. about 4 kgs lighter with a smaller diff and takes a smaller flywheel.. This next one is the one I'll use... Its a later Leone 1600 T71G which shares the same slightly bigger stronger casing as the 1800cc. Ratios are 1st 3.636 2nd 2.157 3rd 1.266 4th .885 5th .725, Rev 3.583 - these coupled with a 3.9 final drive ratio should suit the Imp pretty well on its 13" 175/60 wheels. Here it is again next to the stock Imp box. Its not too far off but the gear selector is higher and points up at an angle. The box is also taller at the rear so the tunnel will need to be raised and the removable cross member chopped about. At 35kg its about 9kg heavier than the Imp box. I can take that. An interesting and very handy fact is that the box selector rod works in exactly the same way as the imp item, even the movements in are pretty much the same in travel both in rotation and back and forth ! So that is nice. Now as discussed previously there is the fact that the Honda will be rotating this boxes input shaft in a direction opposite to the norm. It has been done successfully with Audo boxes and I know of a fella who has run a box backwards behind a 440ci engine with no dramas. I'd also had the discussion about the new thrust loadings with a fella in the UK who's into Goldwings. Came to the conclusion that being a Japanese box from a much heavier car, optionally with a Turbo. So its not been to much of a worry however more people have questioned it and now I was really curious. I decided to strip the spare 1600 box down (same internal structure but a smaller diff and different casing) I got as far has the last bearing and syncro hub to remove and my puller broke. I'll use friends press but even so I am now happy that it will be fine. 5th gear is the one with the least thrust area when run opposite direction but that wont be so loaded up. Here's some pics I took... A beautifully done bit of technical description in this one showing original (green) and new rotation thrust bearing positions. (My Samsung note phone needs a new stylus!) On a side note- it has to be the easiest gearbox I have ever taken apart (ignoring the fact I need a press to remove some bits from the shaft) so I will take the box I'll be using apart and rejoin the casings for mocking up purposes later on. Much easier on my back. So lets put the box away in the corner and get back to the fun bit. The flat six. I was really looking forward to seeing how much lighter it was gonna get as I removed all the un-needed bits from inside. With the alternator, starter, inlet manifold and coolant pipes removed I weighed the engine. It came up at 105kg. Diet time! I removed the rear clutch cover that has the slave cylinder built in. Removed the clutch unit. Took off the drive gear housing. Ohhhhhh. Clean and shiny. Neato. I was told that this engine was possibly a low mileage unit but I was not to know until I began to strip it. I was fearing sludge or bad staining inside the castings but its super clean. Here's a shot with a few of the spur gears missing and showing the various bits... Clutch unit added back but without the main rear casing on so you can see what it looks like.. This was fun. I like learning new engine layouts. Here's the front of the engine which will now be facing backwards. Cambelt covers removed and you can spot not one but two VR sensors for the Honda CGI ignition setup. It has a 12 tooth trigger wheel which with a tooth removed could be used as a crank angle sensor for the EFI I have planned. More likely I'll make a 36-1 wheel the same size for better resolution. There is also plenty of room for a cam angle sensor to be fitted- Ideally I would rather run this engine on full sequential injection if ("if !?.... hahahaha" they laugh..." he said if " ) I use ITBS. Cam covers off. One of them had some welding. I suspect that the reason is that the bike was crashed and one cover got hit. Fella who originally had this engine for his project had bought a complete bike. You can see the nifty hydraulic valve lash adjusters.. I removed the cams then the heads. Carefully stashed all the bits in order on a shelf I had cleared. All the bolts and bits were being placed in organiser trays I had bought for the project. I knew full well that this project could well drag on for a long time given life etc. With the help of Hannah we split the crank case and revealed all the gubbins inside... Lots of heavy stuff in there to weigh in! Yay. All this stuff I didn't need went in this box... and that box went on the scales... 35kg Sweeeeeeeeet! That's more like it. A little bit more to lose when I start hacking the crankcase apart. Now I'm aware that I'll be adding some weight back with a flywheel and clutch but hey- this is a good place to start. Its now a 70 kg flat six. Next thing to do was sit it next to the box and line some things up... You can see where I'll have to fabricate a bellhousing to fill that 40mm gap. The Imp was at this point in time 'up on blocks' as I had the Datsun engine out to replace the rear main seal and ring gear. How handy then because I wanted to see how the engine sat in place! I bolted the heads back on loosely and slung the lot up under the imp. I lined the transaxles outputs with the driveshafts so positioning the engine front to back. I took a few photos, took some measurements and noted some stuff. I then removed the transaxle from the equation so I could lower the car down so the engine would sit roughy where it will end up. I stood back and admired it. Wow! It just looked so bloody spot on in there! Man - if my juices weren't fizzing with excitement previously as I stripped the engine down they certainly were now. I'll let these last photos I snapped end this update
  2. 66 points
    So what was this engine that I was so excited about arriving just in time for lock down to begin eh? All carefully placed and tightly wrapped up on a pallet by none other than mr @Threeonthetree and sent down to Nelson in the nick of time. The forklift driver chuckling away after I explained what it was and what car it was going into. Just a little glimpse through the plastic. Those magical numbers I had been after for a fair while after having decided to take a chance and just go for it. But finding one of these engines complete, without a massive bike attached, at a price I could afford was proving to be tricky. We got home, having completed the rounds about Nelson of whatever shops still happened to be open for emergency lockdown supplies. I knew full well that at some point during the next 4 weeks of my of enforced tinkering I would come up to a road block. Something essential would be needed. Something silly and normally easily available. But I didn't care. I would deal with it. I just wanted to get stuck in. The wraps came off. Oooooh lordy. Its a beaut. But a beaut that was in urgent need of a diet and trim in size... So this is what I have bought. A 1991 Honda Goldwing 1500cc flat six. Now going back in time, way back in around April 2018 when I was restoring my Imp shell a guy named Darkspeed on the Retrorides forum was chatting about engines on my thread. He's had a few Imps and Ginettas over the years and has always been looking at other engines. He uttered these words .. "I also pondered the Honda Goldwing lump for that mini 911 Vibe" Now this struck a cord for me. It just seemed right. It was far too interesting for me to not look further into and I did just that. I did lots of research, studied the pictures so carefully on a downloaded workshop manual and had sort of sussed out that it might just be a viable option as a swap. Not for this car but maybe my other shell. But then he came back with this bit of info... "I cannot recall why I actually dropped the idea but I suspect that they maybe counterclockers " Bugger! I said. He was right. Somehow I had completely missed this fact in all my studying. It was indeed, like many Honda engines, a anti clockwise rotating engine. Damn. So I put this idea right out of my mind and continued on with the restoration. Until, as mentioned in the previous post, Mr Pete Valiant stepped in at the Oldschool nationals. He had been thinking about this and the idea popped into his head of taking a Subaru gearbox from a fwd Leone or Legacy, turning it around 180 degrees and in so doing counteracting the 'anti clockwise' rotation of the Goldwing engine. Simples! Wow. So this idea played on my mind for the rest of the nationals weekend, I downloaded manuals again, looked over them and schemed. It was not going to be easy and simple though. There were going to be many hurdles. The engine was heavy and quite tall with its built in transmission. There was no bellhousing. Not even a resemblance of one. There was no flywheel and the oil pump was driven by spur gears and a chain that had to go in order to allow for a flywheel. The engine is also a clamshell that once together does not allow any access to the insides without completely taking it apart - so new head gaskets each time and a whole load of work just to get to the oil pump etc. The starter and alternator were integral to the gear system so they wouldn't be viable to keep in place. But the crank does have a flange to which an adaptor could be added to and bolt a flywheel up to. However I could not easily work out the size of the flange or bolts. It seems to be that these engines just keep reliably going for a long time and when they die not many people rebuild them. Its just cheaper to just swap in another engine. There was/is not a heck of a lot of info out there on them like you might find for other engines. Excluding trikes I could only find two other vehicles that had used a goldwing engine and they both used them with the transmission through a diff. That wasn't going to work in an Imp as it places it too far back and high. But I was keen on the challenge and wanted to have a go. If I could find a cheap enough engine I could have a crack and if it all went pear shaped I would cut my losses- so long as it entertained me and challenged me. I needed a cheap engine and had been keeping an eye out for one everywhere. Too expensive to import, too much of a risk to buy a complete non running bike. Then one popped up in Auckland and it was fitted in an Imp of all places!!!! Wtf Turns out that a fellow kiwi Imper had bought a Imp race car project that was built some 20 years ago or so. I don't think they ever got it racing. He had bought it for the shell mainly. It utilised the entire Goldwing setup, like the other two cars I had found and ran the power through a Holden ( I think) diffhead along with the Goldwing electric reverse. It was indeed mounted really far back and quite high on a pretty lacklustre framework of angle iron, hopes and dreams. But it was there, complete and really low mileage. I heard it running, it sounded mean and I wanted it. We set on a price of $500 and Neal kindly sorted out getting it down to me. So that is where this pallet of goodness comes in. Now to see what I had bought and let myself in for!.... Carbs had been removed by Neal so they couldn't get damaged... There was this plastic board with a very carefully laid out Goldwing engine electrical system complete... There was a book too. Very handy. This would make for great on the throne reading... So this engine complete with transmission, starter, alternator, carbs is around 126kg which was a bit too chunky to risk lifting between us both. I lifted it out with the engine crane plonked it on the big steel bench and removed the exhaust manifolds, inlet manifold. Still too much engine... I removed the starter, alternator. Looking better already for sure but there no doubt about it- this engine was going to go on a intensive weight loss course! I was already enjoying this new project and looking forward to the next step.
  3. 59 points
    OK so I had the engine sitting there in pretty much the spot I wanted it. I had taken loads of measurements and pondered many aspects in an attempt to really look into the future and pick up on any potential problems that could arise. It was pretty obvious that the bodyshell was going to need a fair bit of chopping about in the tunnel region (ooooooohhhhh I can see the originality preachers trembling already..) and that the engine was too low in its nether regions. You can see it here. Its not stupidly low and I have seen worse but for a car that has to navigate our driveway with its rocky surface it needed to be better... It had a nice burly bottom but my intentions were to raise that and make a removable sump plate. Still with fins though to help keep the oil cool. Here's what the underside currently looks like... I pulled the engine out and sat it on the bench. The Imp then got its little Datsun heart bolted back in place and reassembled to working order (yay for no more leaks I thought..but it still leaks because British) I poured myself a whiskey. It might have been a few. I studied the crankcase and sump carefully... I then went over my plan of attack. My main issue was the oil pump. It was going to have to move further up in the block so I had to find a suitable place to mount it. I also had to work out how I would drive it. Originally it there was a larger spur gear running off the crank, driving another spur gear. Off the centre of the spur gear was a sprocket which ran a chain down to a sprocket on the oil pump shaft. The oil pump shaft ran not one but two oil pumps. The main pump in the sump area and a smaller scavenging pump in the clutch housing area which squirted oil up over all the gears. The shaft also ran through the main pump to the front of the engine (what is now going to be the back) and powered a water pump. A bit tricky to picture? Well here is a stunning bit of pencil art I did just now ... Plus a photo of the all those gubbins on view at the back. The driven spur gear is missing in this pic but you can see the splined hub it slides onto with the driver sprocket on inner end... Honda had made it all very neat but also all very complicated for what I required. I just need one main oil pump to feed the bearings. So I move the oil pump up. Fine. I'll mill a flat area and make new mounting blocks to suit. But because I have removed the spur gear arrangement (no room for that lot with a custom flywheel planned for the crank) I'll have to chain drive the pump with sprockets (at the correct speed too). OK. That should be easy enough. But no spur gear means the pump will be running backwards. Oh bother. So how about I mount the pump on the opposite side of the sump casing and so turn it around. The shaft is long enough because it goes right through the pump each way. I took the pump apart and checked if this was feasible. It was. Yes! Now why not just run an external oil pump and dry sump it etc ? Well mainly because I am not Mr Money and hence prefer (have) to do it as cheaply as I can with what's at hand (more of a challenge this way and more satisfying too) Also- if I use the Honda pump and keep the required oil routing sensible then it sort of remains factory. I am also going to do my very best at keeping the external look of the engine as clean as possible with a nice uncluttered engine bay. That's just the style I like. Plus we were only just into lockdown here and I wanted to crack on, get as much fabrication as I could done while on my ' holiday in the shed '... So now I had a plan to follow and could start chopping things up. I chopped it just below the engine mounts I intend to use. There is a myriad of long bolts running through the cases clamping them together. The main larger ones are all up around the crank area. Then another two lines of smaller ones below (which hold the cases together under the against the loading of the transmission shafts- now gone) Plenty enough bolts so the lowest are now gone. This lot will be stronger when I have finished with my idea. I kept chopping it up. Took a bit more off because it was fun. Lovely alloy too I might add. Very clean castings. Ended up with an engine a fair bit shorter in height... I got the cuts pretty square and straight. Made easy by the fact that Honda had nicely added reference lines for the purpose- just like on a pack of butter... Now I had to mill it flat. It would take decent sized knee mill to clean up something this size and awkward. Or how about a little drill mill, a steel bench and a big plate of steel I had rescued from a Japanese dentist chair I stripped for bits... I had to position it just right and use the swing on the radial drill mill to run over the cut edges. It looked a bit suspect but it worked fine with light cuts. After the bottom of the sump case was flat and square I then milled a flat area on the face below the crank flange. This would leave a good flat surface, perpendicular to the crank centre line, to mount a plate with an idler sprocket on it for the oil pump drive I had sort of nutted out in my head (but really had not gone any further then just that and it could well have been just nutty) That area ended up like this... The pump would fit somewhere in here like this... Then I threw the lot on the fire... and swept up all the alloy chips that seem to have gone everywhere! When it was nice and warm I welded some new flanges on. Very carefully and slowly I tacked them, taking my time to make sure they stayed true and square and keeping it warm in between tacks. They did. Yay I welded as much as I could reach with my torch along the tricky edge leaving just a few spots that I'll seal at build time with JB weld. It turned out so good that I barely needed to give it a tickle with a larger file, more just a clean up and sits square on my bench. Straight edge reveals my bench is indeed flat too- I had to check! I was so happy at this point because it was one bit of the conversion I feared could go wrong - however I think the warming up and that fact the block is a complex very rigid shape helped keep it all straight. I sat back with a cup of tea and admired my nice burly flanges that I will bolt a plate to...
  4. 57 points
    Well here it is ! After working away since picking this up in December last year in a bit of a state here's my version 1 of the Mazda. Car was a mess when I got it so we've been busy in the shed with the deadline of Chrome Expression Session this weekend. Couldn't have done it without a heap of mates an legendary business's! Steve at The Shed Rust Repairs for the rust work Tony for the panel and paint Hayden at Jokers Wild Kustoms for hijacking the car and getting it running while i was away at MCM Marc at RE- Wires NZ for fitting it in for coil repairs ASAP after dyno V1 Mark at Revolution Engine Services for locking me in a last minute dyno tune tomorrow Toby for polishing the wheels and trim Andy Duffin at 3 Rotor Racing for sorting a new spoiler last minute before paint Grant at Cooper Tyres Waihi Beach for heaps of tyre fitment swaps and a last minute pre chrome alignment Jimmy T for painting the dash topper and gauge surrounds @64valiant at Midnight Upholstery for retrimming the dash topper Gav at Precision Workz for redrilling the wheels and fab work Super stoked on the finished result
  5. 54 points
    We disconnected the driveshaft incase it was a transmission issue, nope. Diff? Unlikely. So we tried some innovation. With a bar through the pinion u-bolts, ratchet stropped to a tree with some tension on it, we added some heat and hammering to the drums, and after some heavy persuasion there was movement! A bit more work and we had a roller. The next big question was the most important, is it saveable? There must have been a point not too long after grandad parked it up, where he realised he wasn't going to be able to get it on the road any time soon, legend says it had blown a head-gasket. So he decided he needed to preserve it. What happened next is a testament to his forethought and crazy ideas, he covered the car in waste oil. Yup, used oil from his digger, lots of it. He pulled out the interior and coated inside the doors, every surface he could get at got the treatment. Now over the years he copped a lot of flack for this, everybody thought it was a pretty silly idea. What it did mean, was that when we finally dragged it from its tomb, it was in a hell of a state. So, out with the waterblaster to see what is hidden under 35 years of dirt filled waste oil. We could hardly contain our excitement as we blasted off the muck, revealing a 100% repairable genuine barn find example of our Tom Dixon's 1968 Rambler Rebel. There is rust, as you would expect, some repair work needed around the windscreens, but absolutely no rust in the floors or sills. In places on the sills, the paint just peels off from the oil softening it, and underneath is clean shiny new steel. Another by-product, the hinges are well lubricated so the doors all open and close beautifully! At this point we were running out of time to do much else, so we loaded the big old girl into the trailer and shifted her home to the stables where she can await restoration in the warm and dry comfort of the fully enclosed and concreted pony shed. It may take a while, but watch this space.
  6. 52 points
    Here I go, late Saturday night and another installment. Because that's how I party... I thought I'd post up a pic of all the other bits safely tucked away on my beautifully arranged 'Honda Goldwing cylinder head apartment storage facilities. At the right height to peer at when needed (maybe for a mojo boost one day - "oh yeah.. that's what the rest of the engine looked like before I pulled it apart, chopped it up and started a whole can of worms type project from it") Here's a piston storage rack that would make Maclarens factory effort look like something from scrapheap challenge.. Carefully laid out heads- these engines have identical heads, cam carriers, cams etc for each side. Don't mix them up!.. All covered up by a lovely sheet so not to get covered in dust. (It makes it like a secret stash of engine goodness).. Now back to the block/engine casings. I'll call it a block from now on, ignoring the fact its two halves. So I have now got to re-mount the oil pump on the opposite side, higher up and turned 180 degrees from where it was originally mounted. It has to go about here... I also had to work out a new way of getting the oil from this new position to the oil filter and then onwards to the starting point of the main oil gallery. Here's a lovely picture you can ponder over. Best pondered with some strong coffee... The standard oil filter location. This is on what was the front of the engine but is now the back and right where I wanted to put a cross member to hold the engine up. Not to mention a big chunk of that lower half of the casing has disappeared after I chopped it off, right through the original oil filter centre line... So that had to go. I looked over the engine and eventually worked out a spot that would suit a new filter pedestal to be mounted so allowing easy access for filter removal. It also had potential to allow for a Mazda style oil cooler or a take off plate to suit a normal oil cooler. It was going to mount roughly about here... It was going to require a big hefty lump of alloy to start with. But I was on lockdown along with most of NZ. Luckily the local engineering workshop that I go to for many bits of random steel stock was doing 'essential' jobs for some industries still running. The workshop foreman left me a lump of alloy in his letterbox that happened to be on the way home from the supermarket shop. This was a lucky thing! Here's the lump of alloy after a lot of it was turned into many many little tiny shards of alloy... I'll get back to that lump later. Next thing was make some flat areas that I could mount things on and line stuff up with. The block was split in two luckily I was able to clamp it to the bed of the mill. I machined the inside so... I had to do this on both sides in different areas. One side had to be machined to suit a new location for the oil pump. On the other casing i machined out pockets to take machine bits that would locate new oil pump feed and return pipes. I was going to do oil the pipe work in alloy using the same size pipes and o-rings as previously used by Honda for the original setup. But now I'm getting ahead of myself and even forgetting where I'm at in writing this. In fact - many times as I looked over the oil line layout I was scheming I would get a bit confused. I felt like this bloke who had just turned up at this new city for a job interview and discovered his phone was dead, his map was 40 years out of date and he didn't speak the local language... So where was I?... Machining things and making a mess of the floor, trailing alloy swarf everywhere inc into the housetruck. Not making friends with Hannah or the cat. Anyway. That oil filter pedestal/mount? needed a flat pocket to mount to. I machined away the casing so creating such an area... On the other side of that I machined out a matching pocket. It began sort of like this... ..and continued like ... Because it was so fun I took away more alloy... Now I had a nice location for the mount. This would be pulled into the outside pocket with a custom gasket sealing it, via bolts from the inside going through another bit of alloy that would be machined to help locate the pipes in and out. From the outside it would sit like this... I drilled the mount and then set about to tap the M18 thread. But I didn't have a M18 tap. Its lockdown so borrowing one from someone was out of the question. But I did have a few spare old Mazda V6 oil filter mounts so I nicked the threaded pipe from one of them and made a tap... It worked fine (phew! ) .... I then turned out the oil groove to suit the Honda filter. I didn't take a photo of this but you'll see it here as I was drilling the oil ways through... Drilled and tapped some mounting holes... Now I had a lovely oil filter mount... Annoyingly I didn't take any pics of the oil pump mount but I can describe it. The oil pump bolt via three bolts to a alloy plate. This plate is bolted to the inside of the casing via bolts that come from outside through spot faced locations... The oil pump shaft runs backwards towards what will be the flywheel area where it will be driven by a series of two chains off the crank adaptor - sort of like the original. But backwards and on the other side. That you will see soon along with a network of machined pipes and fittings that almost need a subway map to follow. More soon....
  7. 43 points
    Covid. Ruiner of adventures. In this case a trip to Europe. As this year is a write off I had some walking around money wanting to be spent. I happened to come across Bart and the previous owner early last week and he showed me a picture of a datsun that had been sitting around for a few years and needed to be moved on. You don't need to hear my life story so let's just cut to it. It had been off the road for a number of years - last wof passed in 2015. It has a CA18DE and 5 speed. R180 diff, S110 disc brakes and height adjustable front suspension and uprated shocks and springs etc Certed way back in 2005 for the mods which is sweet. As it stands it will idle but die when under load so is not drivable. Shouldn't be much to sort out. Only a couple of photos shot so far. Plans are to give it a bit of a tidy and just hoon it round. Should be fairly reliable.
  8. 39 points
    Well great news, and slightly delayed, the Covid19 pandemic allowed time for a bathroom sink(!!) Made from an old brass preserving pan, and brought the copper pipes down to the valve taps. Stoked with it! Prior to this great update, we spent a day coating the walls with $100ish of driveway anti-slip - stops all the dust escaping the 25 year old tilt slabs and seems to keep it a more moderate temperature, but in hindsight it made the walls really rough to touch as there is evidently sand in it... I should've understood how it was anti slip. But anyway it's still far better than dust and can confirm second winter round, it's bloody warm in here and that is without any heating and still exposed roof. Since lockdown it's become my full time office space until the travel industry picks up again, so I've spent many hours (and dollars) on artwork and instructing old mate what furniture to make me. But finally finished off the feature wall with a favourite picture from my parents work, Rod Millen in the RX7 in the Santa Monica Hills. I spoke to him yesterday and he confirmed it was the first "official" test of the 4WD RX7 (other than around the workshop streets at night) and his team mate explained how it was 3 images cut into 1 image. Also over lockdown it became home of various additional rotary projects, from the strip down of the 12a Twin Dizzy for the RX2 to starting up and restoring the Sachs rotary bike. It's currently home to both 808s which is surprisingly fine as the floors cleared out more so they don't really get in the way. Have started discussions with alibaba about a car stacker for when the RX2 ever eventually moves in. A massive shout out to the great people who have given us amazing additions as well! Got given a vintage fuel pump from Rodney's vast collection of 60 of them, and a oil can from the airport he used to book out to test the Celica for Pikes Peak, amongst some signage too. Got some amaaaaazing signs like Rotary Engine Specialist and rotary goodies (on lease apparently ) from @73crownwagon and with some brilliant new LED lights straight from Mr Jackson @UTERUS it's coming along really well. Also picked up this cool Turkish rug to hide the petrol stains the blue 808 caused, and protect the floor from the oil leaks the rotary provides. Pretty sure I've forgotten a lot of things but yeah, it's still fucking cool to be here tbh.
  9. 38 points
    goes without saying really but ive driven the crap out of this, drove it to work every day, supermarket, all that shit. anywho the clutch slave shit itself which tbh isnt that big of a surprise. the pedal pressure on the clutch was immense, the whole fire wall flexed so much the brake master hit the strut tower. the clutch that was in it was the highest pressure 250mm exceedy clutch you can buy. and it had started slipping. so Richard gave me a hand (because i dropped an engine on one of mine) and we took the JZ out to replace clutch slave and clutch. im just going to replace the seals in the clutch slave because fuck you cardwells you thieving bunch of cunts. and im replacing the old clutch with a twin disk OS Giken unit which requires less force on the spring tines but has double the clamping pressure. its a sprung center unit and fingers crossed its actually drivable on the street. consensus is that it will be fine once i get the hang of it so thats good with me. ill do a few other things while the motor is out because why the fuck not and then ill chuck it back together. then do a skid i would expect. 2020-07-25_03-40-31 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-07-25_03-40-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-07-25_03-40-04 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-07-25_03-39-53 by sheepers, on Flickr
  10. 37 points
    Took the Imp for a hoon on Saturday. Went to visit a mechanic who works from home up a valley not far from us because he has fields of cars and I had spotted some Subaru Leones. Sadly he doesn't have an front wheel drive models because I wanted to nab any gear boxes that I can just as spares in case my decides to detonate. Top bloke though- he knows his scooby stuff having been a mechanic for Subaru NZ. He's given me a contact to try for boxes. So since it was a very lourverly sunny spring day indeed we thought we'd continue our drive further up the valley and check out a load of nice roads we normally cycle on. It was so much fun. I didn't drive super quick. Just enjoyed the nice handling and it feels quick anyway when you sit so low. I took this pic along the way. (some fellow oldschoolers might know the area because it was part of a circuit I lead folks on for a friday cruise on the weekend of the oldschool nats, Marahau 2014. We went to Mapua for lunch and hung out with all the posh people there. Then home via the supermarket to end a nice day out in the Imp. The day before I had picked up some carpet that local lady who makes funky cushions had sorted me out with for cheaps. Proper auto carpet, same as what I had used in my Viva... The workshop is finally a fair bit emptier having smashed out a few other jobs and got them picked up/delivered. One job we just did was build some hefty steel art deco styled gates and a large set of doors for under an outdoor cooking area for a customer in Nelson. We reckon the gates look really neat so I have to share ... Now going back in time to where I had finished off in the last post. The oil pump was now mounted and I had a oil filter mount in place. I had forgotten to take a photo of the inlet/outlet off the mount but picture two tubes coming out of its base and going through the wall of the engine block. I now had to link those two pipes with things. One had to make it way to the oil pump and the other had to work its way to the back of the engine (as positioned in the Imp) and link up to the main oil gallery into the block. I had to have a good think about this. Whatever I do to make it work has to be easy to assemble, through the bottom of the engine with the sump cover removed. Once the engines two clamshells are placed together I don't want to ever separate them again for two main reasons... 1 : Because that involves removing the heads so new gaskets required and that costs money and I dont like spending money. 2 : It also involves a tricky little system to fit three pistons into the bores, from the bottom of the bores, using removable piston ring compressors through a gap of about an inch inside. You'll see more on that later. I am NOT looking forward to that bit. Originally the Honda oil feed system used pipes and sealed everything with O rings. It works well and makes sense. I could work with that. I did entertain using lots of AN fittings and hose etc. However there was a few reasons why not. They are a bit pricey. They were not easily available locally, especially during lockdown. It is not at all easy to swing spanners inside this engine block. Did I mention they are pricey ? Ultimately if money was not really an issue for me I would dry sump the engine and run a external pump. But ugly, expensive, external oil tank in the way somewhere, driving the pump off a currently non existent belt drive pulley (not even got to that point yet for an alternator but I have an idea) So keep it simple with stuff I have to hand! With that I rummaged through the pile of alloy stock I had and found a few bits that would work... But O rings were going to be a bit trickier. The size used by Honda didn't match anything I had nor anything I could find on my suppliers website. They were odd. I looked through a Honda parts diagram online and found the Honda part number along with the exact size of the O rings. Nice of Honda to do that! Looked up sizes online and it turns out that they are a JIS standard Oring. I never knew of such things. Actually very common among many Japanese cars. Even better - when I searched through my suppliers website they actually had them! But wait - there's more!!! They were cheaper than all the other O rings close in size. Yay! But the shop was shut to public and I couldn't visit it anyway. Boo! Thanks Covid However- the shop was open for supplying engineering places that were considered essential services. It happened that one of the employees lived not far from me. He delivered some and left them in my mail box. Yay! So now I could start what Hannah refers to as the London underground of oil tubes. I worked my way from the oil filter and made various blocks with holes and tubes with grooves. All very carefully measured to fit just right and tight but constructed in a way that it could be taken apart from the sump opening. I was lucky that I happened to have a large drill bit that was spot on for the final pass on the bores to suit the pipes and O rings for exactly the same amount of 'squish' that the Honda factory pipes and fittings have. I made sure that all the bores were as big if not bigger than the Honda setup so not to increase restriction on the oil paths. You'll see later that I will be over driving the pump in speed by a notch but that's another story. I must add that the job of planning, measuring and machining up all these little bits was a super fun way of spending time during lockdown (in between going for heaps of bike rides on super quiet roads!) Here's some pics of my subway tube network. These are the two blocks that seal onto the in and out pipes for the oil filter... The closest hole will feed a pipe heading back to link to the oil gallery. The further most block has a hole that takes a connecting pipe from the pump. Here's a view from the side... Lets zoom out a bit so you can see where they are in relation to the pump... You can also see how the pump is bolted to an adaptor plate which is bolted to the inside of the block. My connecting pipe that goes between pump station and filter station is in two parts so it can be fitted easily from below... Together its like this (lighter for scale... because all the cool kids measure the dish of their hand machined oil pump pipes with lighters like this)... Then fitted in place... Connections man! So I had the pump to filter sorted. The filter to main gallery looks like this... That pipe sticks out through a hole that was originally for the shifter mechanism ( I think. But whatever... thanks Honda for your convenient hole) You can see the oil gallery below. I will make a bolt on block with oil ways to connect them. I will also design it so I have the potential to take off from there and add an oil cooler. I would rather run the engine without one. It never had one as a bike but the engine did have more air flow over the engine though. But my engine will have a well finned sump cover to pull off heat plus be free to radiate heat better than on the bike. I shall run it and see. Its not a race car so I suspect that with really good synthetic oil I'll be fine. Its a pretty understressed engine anyway. Maybe I can add an oil temp sender to my filter block and run that through the ECU so I can have it show up on Tunerstudio for evaluation? Hmmmm - I like little things like that. But either way- keeping it as an option is good. I have yet to make the cover plate (some alloy plate is under my bench for it) that will go over that end. All simple stuff that. Once that's in place I can make a union block to suit the pipes. That cover plate will also have the oil filler and possibly a centre engine mount to suit a cross member but I have not yet decided on that. Moving around to the flywheel end of the engine you can see where the oil pump drive shaft hangs out, waving about like an unsupported shaft with no attachments... That shaft needs some motorvation and that is going to be part of the next exciting instalment. It involves Shimano....
  11. 35 points
    Not sure where to begin with this latest update really. I have kept this side project fairly secret squirrel with only a few folk here and there knowing about it. I'm sure others will guess pretty quickly. I have soooooo much to write and many interesting photos to post up. I was going to hang on for longer because the engine build itself is still a long way from being finished and then I have to chop the Imp about to fit it, build an ecu, intake, exhaust to suit plus many other jobs to make it work. Its going to be a big enough mission to write about it all but I'm pretty confident it'll be interesting enough to make writing about it worthwhile. Where to start then? Well.. a long, long time ago I was chatting to a certain Mr Pete Valiant at the Oldschool nationals in Banks Peninsular 2018. The subject of my engine dilemma from early on in the restoration came up. Pete had been thinking about it. He had an idea so simple it just seemed like it couldn't possibly work. But it got me very excited and I spent much time on the drive back home from Nats looking over a downloaded workshop manual of 'the engine' trying to nut out how it might work. This process lasted for an entire year, often going on the back burner as other things in life stepped in the way. Then I found out about an engine up for grabs, sussed out a deal and thanks to a very helpful fella called Neal I ended up with this pallet of goodness turning up in Nelson - the day before NZ went into full lockdown ! ... Then the work began. More to come soon
  12. 34 points
    Body is all painted again, Big improvement from what it was, Just flares and spoiler to be painted and refitted later in the week. All booked in for a tune on Thursday so got to get shit sorted and get it back together. Its all running again now so not much to do before it can go to tune.
  13. 32 points
    Long story short @- i5oogt - @azzar and myself were in takaka to buy yet another mk2 Mirage . The car was in the impound yard at Orange mechanical also in takaka. We went for a wander around their yard and in their , to be crushed pile was this cream nissan 720 no wheels. No bumper or plates. On closer inspection it had two rego labels........ It failed a wof on rust in the floor. The owner not wanting to spend the money getting it fixed. Decided it was the end of the road for the little ute. Strange since hed owned it for nearly 20years and had never taken it out of the valley. After contacting the owner a deal was struck and plates and wheels were obtained from his possession. The wheels having 4 near new maxxis commercial tyres. First hurdle was the takaka hill..... in a sd23 powered ute Not to be scoffed at the little ute chugged up the hill in 4th gear most of the way. (Had to find 3rd for the real tight corners). The sd23 was quickly proving itself as a force to be reckond with A quick stop in motueka to wash the moss and lichen off using @Slacker_Sam. Car care kit. And off we set to Christchurch. Register but no wof. Made it to murchison for a meal at the pub before dark. But after that was all nigh running. The sd23 was more than happy cruising along at 100km and seemed to be a set and forget in 5th gear up hill and down dale 5th gear did it all. 6hrs on the road from takaka to chc and over half at night. And over 450km in a ute destined for the crusher. Better yet it didnt use a drop of oil or coolant on the drive back
  14. 30 points
    Righto. On Thursday I took the beasty down to my friendly wof man for a cert pre check. Apart from the obvious issue that there had been some minor mods going on the the chassis/cab/drivetrain etc, there were some actual wof issues; The towbar mount was not pulling up hard against the chassis. I must have always been like this but not obvious as it was covered by a bumper. Some rust in the passenger front door. The wiper mechanism is toast. The tyres are too sticky outy. My handbrake adaptor/pivot was made from aluminium, not steel. He also questioned the pointyness of the cab steps and the bumper. All good points, so I early Saturday morning I cracked on. First I fixed the towbar issue with some additional welded on spacers that I forgot to take a pic of. Sweet. Then I sorted the handbrake thing, again I forgot pics but it's not super interesting, so whatevs bitch. Then I looked at the door. This had a bubble which I had rust killed and ignored a while back, but I guessed I would be dealing with it at some point. As usual it was uglier than expected with bonus bog; A bit of sanding and it was as good as my care level for paint and panel work thought it should be, ie completely unacceptable to most people. A couple of coats of etch primer and it's sweet. I did go to repco this morning with a paint code for 048 Poverty Spec Toyota White, they were fucking useless. I then went to supercheap just in case, but after waiting for 10 mins at the service desk I got the hump and went home. Next I eviscerated the dash to get at the wiper mech. I had sort of fixed this up from the outside a while ago, but I kind of knew I would have to sort this eventually. It looks like the hiace mechs are the same, or at least close enough to mod to suit if I cant find a proper Dyna one. Might do some tidying in there while I'm at it. I am glad I did this though, because I noticed this issue. If you look closely the tube feeding brake fluid to the clutch has what looks like condensation. This is brake fluid eating it's way out of the pipe. This is disappointing as I bought that from BNT specifically for this application. I guess I need to find something different and then flush that fluid out. Next I thought I would sort the tyre issues. I got this far and realised I had no more suitable sheet steel or 10mm round to make some for the rear. It's a good start though, so I will pick away at this over the next few evenings. I might paint those rims silver, it is looking a bit too aggressive for my liking, that might soften it a bit. We will see.
  15. 29 points
    For aligning the two halves I have one pattern with holes going right through, other half only about 15mm deep. Clamp the two parts together, align, and run a reamer through into the 2nd part. Then install dowels on the lower half.
  16. 29 points
    So I said I wasnt going to cast things in the US but ive changed my mind Got access to a lot more resource here, more sand options, binders, filters, foundries etc. The sand binder ive got has a lot longer working time and a much longer shelf life. So I should be able to do bigger moulds at home. Out door spray booth. Acetone vape on the patterns. Doesnt work the best on PLA but still blends it together a bit to make it stronger. In theory. First casting will be the cam tree. Using Duratec primer which is super high build and like chalk so easy to sand.
  17. 28 points
    So, because I felt like Gav (@~Slideways~) was hoggin all the "buy a really beat old Eunos Roadster" glory and because there's such a large font of knowledge for the little beaters on here, I figured I would add mine to the mix. I ended up swapping my (once @Toddy415's old AE82 FXGT) for this one that a mate had sitting in his back yard. There was a yarn about why it had been sitting for so long but I can't remember exactly what it was, however, I had had my fun with the AE82 and the future held more rust repairs than I was willing to undertake. I have plenty of other rotten cars inside instead of ones that have to sit outside. This was a car my mate had bought for his wife, she was not interested at all in it but when I asked how much they wanted for it, a deal was eventually struck as a straight swap. It hadn't had a warrant or reg in 3 years but was on hold, the roof was fucked and so even though it was stored under cover (but still outside) the interior had been dismantled and removed to stop it potentially getting filled with damp/water. It had some previous repairs done on it before it was parked up but they weren't painted over so potentially turned into a bit of a waste of time however I wasn't after pretty, just something I could use and have a laugh with. So this is what I got... As you can see, covered in terrible stickers with a metal "M" Mazda badge on the nose. Gross. Indeed I ripped the badge off before it even left my mate's house and left it on his property instead of mine. First thing done was to swap over the wheels from the Corolla; Second thing to do was remove the stickers and make a bit of an effort to put some paint on the repairs, I wasn't too fussy as I just needed something on there, however it's got pearlescent paint on it and the colour code paint doesn't match that. :/ Then I managed to find a soft-top locally fro $200 that only had a minor tear on one side which meant I wouldn't have to put a piece of plastic over it.. ..and I threw some heat into the front bumper to remove the dent, a bit more shitty colour match spray paint with a bit of tweaking then some black shitty paint on the lip The astute will notice a change in plates. The previous front one had been modded and bent to "suit" the bumper. So i got replacements then took it for a warrant which it passed without any faults. Score. However, taking it to get the warrant was the first time I'd actually driven it and the clutch is fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucked. So I ordered a replacement clutch, flywheel, brake discs and a bunch of service part consumables from RockAuto some of which have arrived and others I'm still waiting. Hopefully some time in the next few weeks I'll have it sorted mechanically and then I'll start on the aesthetics. I'd like a hardtop, a little bit lower, Garage Vary lip and rear panel, largeish ducktail rear spoiler and roof spoiler for the hardtop. Would also like ITBs and a bunch of shit but for the time being a pod filter will do for some more loud with nothing to show for it induction noise. It already sound OK-ish when giving it some jandal but some good headers would be cool too.
  18. 28 points
    Putting the sand in the freezer before adding the catalyst has given me a good 15-20minutes work time (instead of 5!) Did the outer mould today with 30kg of sand no issues.
  19. 27 points
    Well it is looking quite a bit more staunch now Edit, I now have a vin plate for it, so it is in the system. Next is a warrant check, then the cert check, then compliance. Yay probably.
  20. 26 points
    Busy week on it this week, Went for a tune, didnt go great, had some coil/spark issues, The coils and ignitors were mounted up in the guard and the wiring wasnt the best anyway so probably should of sorted that first. Getting it sorted by Rewires NZ tomorrow and then will get back on the dyno this week. Got the flares on this week, all the trim and badges etc as well as getting the wheels reassembled for tyres to go on. Finally got the eyebrow chrome for the front that mine was broken, as well as a grill badge so that finishes the front end off nicely. Busy week ahead pre chrome this coming weekend, Interior to be finished putting back together Coil wiring sort Tune Wheel alignment Clean/polish Tyres fitted Then we will be good to go!
  21. 25 points
    Bit more time in the shed. Got these skins knocked out. Hammerform approach worked really well. Would ideally have access to slip rolls to do the radius a little bit better (and a nicer folder) but got there in the end... Will drop the frames off at the blaster, still alot of work in the back doors
  22. 23 points
    THISSS.... Is a very expensive and difficult to get piece of discontinued Mugen equipment for a DC2R 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-932 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Why did I get it? Because I'm a stupid fucking magpie, that's why. I also have a Mugen exhaust and a recently restored header (which for some reason I never updated but OK), and wanted to finished off the intake, header and exhaust (I/H/E) holy trinity with a matching piece. So a friend of a friend found a wee shop in Hong Kong who had this. He subsequently bought it on my behalf, I sent him money, he sent me a large box, I dealt with the hassle that is customs, and voila. Here it is. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-945 by Richard Opie, on Flickr I am going to read this manual, and figure out how it installs. There's a lot of parts. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-953 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is the airbox, and the velocity stack that locates inside the inner gaurd. Vs the stock arrangement, it has a HUGE volume. I'm going to assume there is some kind of science involved in the shape, and volume of it. Because well, justifying it. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-940 by Richard Opie, on Flickr The airbox attaches to this bellmouth with the biggest V-band clamp I've ever seen. Apparently this particular part is quite responsible for the Mugen setup producing some better numbers than most other units on the market. I'm not a surgeon, so I can't comment with any real conviction. Really nicely made piece of kit however! 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-947 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This thing stops all the nasties getting in, and claggin up my 'tec. It's really important that you keep fine particles away from your VTEC. K&N make this. So you can just do washing and oiling like you do with all the other K&N things and it'll last forever. Or at least for a few thousand KM this gets driven every year. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-950 by Richard Opie, on Flickr It is REALLY important to have a sticker. So here is the sticker, that usually goes on the shiny top part of the airbox. I'm gonna scan it, so I can get replacements made when I inevitably wreck the other one while I'm doing my best impression of an apprentice signwriter whom hasn't yet read the dictionary definition of "self adhesive." The shiny stuff is sticky tape. In true Japanese tuner fashion, you use that to stick the trumpet onto the end of the airbox. No lies. Join me next time, for the part where I swear, scratch my new parts, cross thread some bolts and take some nice photos of it so it all appears super mint and well installed.
  23. 23 points
    After cleaning the fuel system it still wouldn't run which led to some head scratching. Tested the electrikery and it was okay. After working from the front back it turns out the lines from the tank were around the wrong way. Bit of a relief. Strangely almost certain it was like this when I got the car. Swapped around and waddayaknow it runs!
  24. 23 points
    ive finally started the carport. its a little bit tricky and a little bit constrained by the roofs it has to intermesh with but it is still going to fit two cars side by side without to much drama so its not to bad. four posts in. i got one of the beams up as well but it was pretty dark by the time id finished so i couldnt take a photo. ill do a bit each night and i should have it done by sat arvo. 2020-08-03_09-47-09 by sheepers, on Flickr
  25. 23 points
    I may have posted this before, but tidying up over the weekend I found some of the stuff my Graddad gave me before he died. He served in the Pacific in WW2, fighting alongside the US Marines, then I think he was wounded and came home, after seeing some pretty bad things (he swore never to own a Japanese car). This knife is one of the objects he made/modified, a US marine fighting knife with the handle he made out of perspex from shot down Japanese planes... I always thought it was a Ka-Bar (Knife attachment, Browning automatic rifle) but the markings show it was the earlier PAL model RH-36, made under licence to equip US troops... Some Barrying tells me "The PAL was one of the most used 'commercial' knives during WW2. Before the intoduction of the Ka-bar there was a serious lack of fighting/utility knives and many marines purchased commercial hunting knives to overcome this shortage until the PAL-36 was supplied. Originally the knife was designed by Remington and when their cutlery deartment was bought by PAL they kept the original dsignation RH-36 (Remington Hunting, Blade type 3, Blade length 6")..." Some of his campaign stuff, should get this framed really...
  26. 23 points
    Torqued up heads, 70 lbs on short bolts and 80 on longer ones, supposed to prevent any head gasket leaks after torquing intake doing it like that. Then removed old intake gaskets, cleaned up surfaces with brakleen, and installed a new thermostat while things were apart. Then dug out my old bits, I'd labelled the lifters and pushrods so they went back in same place, sadly I'd dated it too, Feb 2017, that's a long time sitting... Problem with using polystyrene was bits getting stuck in the pushrod holes, glad I checked... So cleaned them out before re-installing them, used assembly lube on lifters and top end of pushrod... And when gubbins were in, ran a bead of sealant on each end of block and insterted intake locating studs.. And a tiny bit of sealant around water passages on gaskets, don't think it's needed but easy to do now... And a thin smear on underneath of manifold... And the beads look like the right amount of goo was used... And assembled, Nice to have things buttoned up... Setting valves next, quite looking forward to a non-messy job...
  27. 22 points
    Discussion: wheels, i still didnt have money but i asked about these and got a PM about a guy that knew a guy that had some. legit. 7jx13 cheviot quattro. Fuck yeah. i had the carbs rebuilt pro-fresh-a-nally and bought a brand new manifold. i legit stared at this on my coffee table for an entire evening. extractors wrapped. here you can see some combustion evidence, i had to pull the motor back out as is had no oil pressure on first start up. turns out i'd forgotten an oil gallery bung behind the timing cover. MOTHeR f***ER! thankfully, no damage. a the day it got its first wof in 4 yrs, dec 2019. so thats the car up to date pretty much. i havent really used it, but thats why i've restarted a thread. i've signed up for the kaikoura hop this yr and i want to smarten it up before then, 6 weeks at time or writing. i bought a rev counter off Karl late last year and cleaned it up but never installed it as i didnt want to loose my combo gauge. i've bought all the correct senders for my gauges now so i'll be doing that. i had the eaxhaust tweaked a few weeks ago to make it bark a bit more. i want to tidy and de clutter the engine bay a bit and also fit a fusebox as they don't have them, shold be easy enough to make a few important circuit run through a fuse or 6. i've also had this stereo for yrs, positive earth and just screwed under the dash for looks, had a modern one in the glovebox but it was just a stupid amount of effort to do anything with it so i didnt use it. i bought a cheap 2 channel amp off aliexpress and tried to wire in the OG potentiometer for max barry points. i failed, but a friend who develops tech for a living took it home as a hobby project and had it working in a few hrs. So legit. the song is supposed to be ironic, incase you were wondering. i will update this a bit more over the coming weeks, as she's all legal now but obv needs all those small jobs tidying and finishing.
  28. 22 points
    Busy weekend. 2nd half worked well. Little removable corner inserts look clean. Next I need to make a new inner core and figure out where to put some risers. Should be close to going to the foundry!
  29. 22 points
    Had a big night in the shed last night working on it. Got bumpers and lights and bezels etc back in starting to look real good. Got the cluster all back together and sorted. Ended up having a rejig of it all and starting again with a new non wrinkle painted cluster. Repainted gauge surrounds as well and pretty happy with how it come together considering. Got a custom cable made to run the autometer box and seems to work fine on the test drive this morn! Needs a good clean as sanding dust everywhere! Car just got taken off for a tune so fingers crossed that all goes to plan this arvo and ill pick it up tonight to finish assembly this weekend.
  30. 21 points
    So when I finished the last post I said to myself that the next one should be less wordy and just let the pictures do the talking. Now bear those good intentions in mind as you read the following. I did say that I might need to go to Palmside for the repair panel for this one, which means I am all the more proud of what I was able to pull off. Considering I only have the bench and a couple of hammers and dollies to work with, it came out pretty close. When you see the photos side by side it looks like the rear sloping section is slightly further forward than the original, especially compared to the shackle bolt access hole, but I'm planning to run an early Mondeo space saver or something so I'm not too worried. My cheviots wouldn't fit in there originally anyway so no biggie. Looks pretty good in the hole too. I left the front edge unfinished for now until I figure out what I want to do with the wheel tub and how to connect the two together. You might have noticed I also reused the original strap bracket thing too so, um, neat? So with the inside panel sorted I started on the outside. I started by stripping the paint back, along with the bog. So much bog. Ain't she purty? After setting to with the bench, hammers, and dollies again, I got this whipped up. It looked pretty good and I was preparing to tack it in but as I cleaned up the inside of the rear little corner piece I was finding more and more pitting so I figured I might as well do the whole job proper. Believe it or not, this was roughly formed with a rubber mallet on the grass on the back lawn before I did the final fettling the normal way. If it works it ain't stupid right? And so next began what I can honestly say is my most successful panel welding so far. All told it was about two hours to get to this point, welding 10-15mm each time and hammering on each weld to keep the warping to a minimum. I left the front little bit untouched for now because I'm planning on replacing the wheel arch at some point so I'll finish it off when I get that finalised. Some more panel beating and a quick coat of primer later, I got this: Lighting it from a very oblique angle exaggerates the imperfections but it gives a good idea of what I'm dealing with. I've since spent more time sorting that out as best I can and made some good progress. I don't think I'll be able to get it mirror straight with my abilities but it's pretty close now and a couple of coats of high build primer should get it there. It's a damn sight better than it was in any case. The last panel I wanted to play with in this area was the lower part of the door surround/quarter panel attachment point. This bit. As you can see it's pretty lacy and I wanted to change how the panel fitting worked so I make a replacement up that was slightly different. It's the top one here obviously; the bottom being the now installed quarter patch. You can see the flange where it used to sandwich between the quarter and valence has been folded over and an extra flange added to sit flush with it. From the inside: This is going to let me plug weld the valence directly to that flange and remove the protruding section that they all have from factory. It obviously worked fine for Ford and made it very easy to manufacture but I don't like how it looks and it's always been my plan to remove it. I realise it'll be hidden behind the bumper in the end and no one will ever notice but that's no reason not to waste a few hours on it for me. The finishing touch for this area was to add in the dimple for the bung that covers the shackle bolt access hole in the inner wheel well panel. I could have just left the panel straight, but then anyone who saw it might begin to suspect that the car wasn't a completely standard, unmolested example of a 77 Escort Estate. Obviously that's not something I'm willing to risk. All you need is a lovely wee die like this and you too can keep all the anoraks fooled. I'll take the hole out to final diameter at some point. Don't rush me. I just spent something like three hours hack sawing through this so I'm a bit tired actually. Over the course of making up these panels I did a few plug welds with the TIG. I was quickly convinced I should get myself a MIG before doing many more. So until then, the panels are going to sit nicely in the corner, ready to go when called upon. In the meantime, I've opened another can of worms. The driver's side quarter has similar rust problems, though not as severe. I figured I might as well crack into it while the techniques are still fresh in my mind and I can't progress on the other side. I started by stripping the paint again. And the bog. Even more this time. I'm reminded again how thankful I am to whomever bodged the shit out of this car didn't just scrap it. Cause judging by their skill level, they really should have saved themselves the effort. And then where would I be? This patch it going to need some considerable beating around so I'm definitely going to need access to the inside of the panel. Which means this has to come out. And this. . It's a weird, almost double skin design, but not really, with a decently voluminous inaccessible cavity between the quarter panel and this inner one. With no drain holes either. Of course. So any dirt or water or bolts or bread ties or bookmarks or whatever that falls down there is gonna stay there. Until it rusts itself a nice access hole anyway. But it comes out easy enough in the end. I love spot weld drills. I have some plans for this area. It'll mostly be back to standard with new steel and better drainage, but I also have an idea for the back-most section that I'll reveal later on, assuming it works. Soviet space program style. In the meantime I'll get myself a welder sorted out and keep chasing my wheel arch lead. I'm not sure I stuck to the plan with being less wordy but hopefully it's been entertaining nonetheless. Thanks for reading.
  31. 21 points
    Did the first mould. Patterns worked well but the sand started going of way quicker than I hoped. Less than 10mins. So theres some voidy areas inside that would be no good for casting. Can still use it for the first mould assembly though. Did a runner system. On the printer now.
  32. 20 points
    There's a fair bit going on in Dad's shed at the moment. Among motorbike and Mustang projects, and hiding behind my Austin 7 is the other car that got pulled out of Grandad's sheds. Project updates might come from any one of @Duke Blackwood, @Itchybear or myself, depending on who remembered to put their beer down and take a decent photo. To kick the build thread off, here is an article I wrote for the Taranaki Mustang Club magazine a while ago: Ramble On Jeff Dixon For my entire life there has been a car sitting on my grandads’ farm that has always held my interest. The car has been sitting in what remains of a dirt floor car shed, since dad parked it there, after joy riding to school when grandad was on holiday, circa 1979... The car I'm talking about was grandads pride and joy in the 70's, his late model American family sedan. A 1968 Rambler Rebel 770. Since I started looking for a first car in my early teens I have wanted to rescue the Rambler, it has always looked like something that would be a mammoth task. Every summer for the last decade I've been saying we should get it out this year and see how bad it is, but life gets in the way and it never happens. Sadly, both Gram & Grandad have passed away in recent years, and with the car and shed looking like they've been deteriorating, we decided it was now or never. During the few days I had in New Plymouth between Christmas and New Year’s (a couple of years ago now) we loaded up the generator, compressor and a few tools to go on a reconnaissance mission and see how hard it would be to move. The first big question, do the tyres hold air? The Rambler has been stored on blocks with the wheels off the ground, so the Goodyear Polyglas tyres were at least still round. After very cautiously pumping them up, we were absolutely shocked to find them all still inflated the next day. Tick. Do the wheels turn? No.... After ratchet stropping a long bar to the front wheels and bashing the hubs with a hammer, the fronts came free without too much hassle, but we couldn't get our bar to the rear wheels inside the shed. At this point we put it on the ground. It's first contact with Terra Firma in 35 odd years. We hitched up the trusty Landcruiser and dragged it into the paddock with the rear wheels locked. After a couple of laps of the paddock it became apparent the rear wheels weren't going to move any time soon. This looked like being a problem. Without the wheels turning we couldn't get it home to the workshop, we can't get the drums off to see what the problem is, we are pretty stumped.
  33. 20 points
    The first thing that needed to come off was the crank handle. I spend 2 x shed nights fighting with it, different methods of heating, pulling, hitting etc. Its off now. And now I'm not convinced that it was supposed to come off the front as it seems. I still can't quite make sense of it. Either way, I'll just rebuild it later. Note I had to jack the front of the car up because the crane didn't fit between the wheels haha. I've never had to do that before. Interior out next and then into some serious cleaning.
  34. 20 points
    Foot flat for 12kms from culverdon to balmoral reserve this was maximum speed Oh and the speedo read like 8kms fast...... Shes not winning any races
  35. 19 points
    First drive complete! Injector seals started leaking. New seals in tonight and away it goes. Next up solve a water leak, get the speedo working and a service and should be dream motoring.
  36. 19 points
    But anyway a bit of info, it's a jap import Mirage CX Wagon, so top spec for one of these, plush interior, stainless steel monsoons, colour coded mirrors, twin sunroof with the rear one being electric which still works great and doesn't leak amazingly, has air con which still blows cold, and the worst part of all, a 3spd auto. This is the single biggest letdown about it. It is punishingly slow, not to mention when it's at 100clicks it's doing 3500rpm. Aside from that it's a little honey. Anyway back to the story, got hold of a straight bonnet and already had a mint front bumper lying around, so swapped all the nice bits onto it and gave it a good clean. Managed to get hold of the original hubcaps for it too which are a really neat 80s design. Lowered it about 50mm cause factory heights for chumps. Took it up to Hanmer for the weekend a couple weeks back with my mate who also has the little blue 2 door and performed like a champ which was a relief as I'd only really taken it round the block a couple times. I then saw a lush set of enkei aero wheels on Facebook marketplace so snapped them up, and thanks to @smokin'joe who managed to get them a good portion of the way from dunedin towards chch I picked them up from him. Gave them a quick repaint and polish as they were a bit grotty, and got a set of 195/60r14s fitted up on them. Also fitted a pair of LED lights on the front as the bumper had holes drilled in it already so figured I better utilise the holes. Just some cheapy jaycar things but are bright enough to help at night time as the factory headlights are crap. @azzar also worked his magic on it and installed a digi dash from our stash of parts just to make it that little bit more lush. And I put in some semi decent sounds and gave the interior a really good scrub up and she came up great. Plans, probably not a lot tbh, I'm torn whether to manual swap it as its such a rare commodity to have these wagons with a slushbox and I'd like to keep it as original as possible given how rare they are, but on the flipside, it is so painfully slow its not funny, auto box is healthy though and shifts smooth enough for a crap old 80s unit. In an ideal world I'd love to 4d68t swap it for diesel nangs. But that's a pipedream. Middy has been dailying lately and she's loving it aside from getting told "it's so bloody slow" haha. So this is how it sits now!
  37. 19 points
    Fuck I’m hesitant to post these photos! I kinda went pretty out the gate on the wheels. I wanted something different and I thought the japs used to have pretty crazy wheel colours back in the days. So I present to you my new wheel set up. This sure as hell won’t be for everyone but I’m really liking it. Please keep in mind the cars getting dropped significantly, I got the wrong size rear tyres so they’re being changed and also my spacers haven’t arrived yet. Anyway, I’d love to hear people’s honest feedback......... Again, discussion here:
  38. 19 points
    Well picked up the coupe from Steve at The Shed Rust Repairs this week. Hes fixed the minor rust in the bottom of both quarters from the rear windscreen rust leaking water in, fixed the rear screen, replaced the hacked up parcel shelf with the cut from Riggs RX in Canada and then filled all the holes in the front lip that had been put into it. Also refit the new rear flares Did a real good job of it all and its alot better now than when i got it! Got it home and did a dummy fit of the 15x10s minus rear tyres and looks like itll be bang on hopefully. Will fill the guards out nice. @64valiant and the mate Jimmy T smashed out the upholstery and the painting of the dash topper so looking massively better than the wrinkle painted mess that was on there. And finally started stripping the exterior for a bit of paint to go down this weekend so looking forward to that!
  39. 19 points
    Progress, all the last bits and pieces came together tonight. Ended up hard-tailing the ass end cos tyre guard clearance might be an issue with my fat ass.. Tasks left, need to true the front wheel cos it is a little wobbly and the tyre is so wide that it rubs a little bit on the inside of the fork legs. But not so bad it will be a major issue. Also need to get a little bit of tube to finish hardtailing the rear end. Got it on the ground and running, put it in gear and rode it under its own power about 2 metres but to go riding required outside moving cars and it was dark so no go tonight - still going to call the small move under its own power a victory. Oh yeah - the idle note is the perfect pop pop pop pop pop with a healthy rasp when I give it a twist.
  40. 19 points
    10 straight hours with my father and myself saw the auto ditched and the manual fully bolted into its new permanent home. The swap was very easy mostly due to me thinking about all the parts I may need and pre buying. This even included a new rear man seal because I figured now would be a good chance, looked like it was weeping a little too! The win of the day way the auto trans cross member being very usable for the manual, all that was required was mount holes drilled 30mm further up the chassis. Win! Other wins include the shifter poking through dead center of the centre console hole, and all the bolts being fairly straight forward to reach once the gearbox was unbolted and allowed to drop down at the rear. Good times ahead, with a driveshaft to be sussed and the rest of the clutch parts fitted, handbrake also needs a fitting and probably some electrical wrangling of the AT ecu.
  41. 19 points
    Treated the old girl to some new shoes a few weeks ago, it was about time as the old Bridgestone tyres and wheels were 40 years old!A nice set of period US Indy's, 15x7 on the pointy end and 15x9 at the blunt end, very shiny!
  42. 18 points
    Well we made it to Chrome... Tune by Mark Haynes at Revolution Engine Services on Thursday morning which went well. Car was happy as with some revs in her! Wheel alignment Friday morning on the way to the track. Got out for a solid 40min session on Friday afternoon and car run mint, Had it out all day on Saturday on and off till Roll racing. Went to give Billy in his TRATA RX3 a race and had no clutch. Limped back to apartment and the boys pulled it out in the dark in the driveway on Sat night. Managed to find a clutch in Auckland and another mate shot up to grab it on Sat night. We chucked it back in Sunday morning and was back on the track by 10! Apart from that car run awesome and got heaps of good comments which was cool!
  43. 18 points
    Oldschool is all about the fanboys of oddball /plain old "literally no one else in the world would think that's cool" vehicles so here's our latest adventures.. The story begins a couple of years ago when we had a Suzuki Vitara. The main idea for this vehicle was basically to transport our mountain bikes in winter (so our other cars don't get dirty), slog through paddocks pulling trailers of firewood and the occasional trip to the beach, the truck was by no means mint so we had fun thrashing it a bit and not worrying about scratching or dinging it. it was a proper 4x4, slow as heck beast from 2001 with interior that was very 90s. The thing was awesome but it was pretty flogged out and starting to show signs of future rust, and the fuel bill made our eyes water so we decided we needed to move to something more economical. Sold it and started the hunt for something else. The criteria for our replacement was basically: Cheap Economical 4wd/AWD (just enough to get us out of a boggy paddock while collecting firewood) airbags/ safety features The search wasn't really turning up many results until one day we happened to drive past a vehicle that made me think. I said to @Guypie"what about one of those? they're ugly so I bet they're cheap and they look like they probably have some sort of AWD system at the very least" ...a bit of searching and my suspicion was right. Introducing the beast: 1999 Honda HRV. This one came up as an auction on trademe in Levin. We bid sight unseen and won the auction. Cost: $1261. Drove to Levin and picked it up, stoked as to see the seller had a massive folder of all the work done to the vehicle since 2007. Regularly serviced, cambelt recently done, near new tyres all round and best of all...The seller dropped 2k on new suspension all round 6 months prior to the sale. We were stoked, car was mint as for it's age and treated so well. Kind of felt like it was too good for our intended purpose but left Levin extremely happy and headed straight up the mountain to test the 4wd in the snow (these things have a very interesting 4wd system, worth having a google if you're interested, too long to type considering how long the rest of this novel is going to take) Time to make it more practical.. The day we got it home, we jumped online and ordered a set of thule roof racks and the following week it was off to have a new tow bar fitted. Starting to look more like a practical vehicle now. Many swoons. We were living the dream.. until.. Wah wah. Long story short: Towing a trailer and the load shifted backwards, trailer fish tailed and popped off the towball, safety chain stayed connected and when the trailer whipped around it pulled the car onto it's side. It was a very mild flop over. funnily, the trailer stayed upright and didn't even lose the load. Conversation went like this: Guy*suspended in the air, held on his seat by the seatbelt: are you ok? Heather *looking at the road next to my window: yeah, you? Guy: yeah Heather: ... do we smash the windscreen to get out? Guy: ... I can just open my door... So we climb up and out of the car (which is a super weird feeling) and as we're getting out, the man from the vehicle behind us comes over and checks we're ok and then offers to pull our car back on it's wheels (he had a winch which was super convenient) Car was only on it's side for probably 5mins max and the damage wasn't actually that bad, just super gutting that our mint little car got wrecked. Battles with insurance followed. It was insured as market value not agreed value, they said market value was 2k, repairs were going to be 3.5k, they wanted to write it off and pay us out.. Turns out we got it way too cheap, there were no other 4wd manuals available for anywhere less than 3k. After many arguments they assessed it again and said they would pay 2.5k, still not enough to fix the car though so we decided to take the payout, buy back the wreck (specified to them beforehand DO NOT deregister) and fix it ourselves. After the excess, the cost of the "wreck" and the rest of the year's premium was subtracted from the value we got paid out the grand sum of $1300. So all in all, we made $39 and came out with a slightly wrecked car. Not the solution we were hoping for but could have been worse. Time to start fixing it: Progress was happening but then it was christmas holidays so the car repairs were put on hold to do fun things like ride bikes more. Back into after the holidays.. found this... Not too bad but still.. sigh.. you'd think the people who installed the tow bar might have mentioned it? anyway no biggie. Time to go to Africa for a holiday, BRB in 3 weeks.. 3 months later.. First weekend back from being stuck in Africa and sitting for two weeks in quarantine, Guy was itching to get things done again so progress happened fast after that: Lots more pulling, shaping, welding etc etc.. At this point we didn't want to invest too heavily in fixing it only to take it for a WOF and find there's something majorly wrong with it (unlikely based on the repairer's examination, but you never know) so it was put back together just good enough to be road legal and taken for a pre-wof inspection.. All went well, the only issue they pulled it up on was the door, it was a bit too far gone so we hit up the wreckers. Took it for a real wof and.. Aww yiss, multi coloured but legal beagle! Time to start adventuring again.. 10/10 stoked to have the beast up and running again. Now to make it look better.. Went to Guy's brother's house this weekend and they spent the weekend pulling out more dents, shaping, bogging and priming..The results.. Next step will be painting. We haven't decided what colour to paint it yet but matching the original colour will be hard as it's faded quite badly up the top compared to the bottom. It's mostly going to be our exploring vehicle so we're thinking something earthy.. green or brown? maybe some tinted deck liner to hide the imperfections, haven't quite decided yet. Open to suggestions. Got some sweet wheels for it but you'll have to wait for the wheel reveal update (thanks to @mark105 for collecting them, will come grab them off you soon) Also, now that it owes us basically nothing and isn't mint anymore, Guy is pretty keen to do some other mods.. a turbo is on the horizon but that will be a while away yet.
  44. 18 points
    ***Warning lots of images follow*** Final fab work was to add a harness bar in, new Motorsport regs mean I have to run a HANS and the old mounting was technically 5 degrees to low. I took the opportunity to also rear mount the seat which adds a lot of stregth in an accident. also took the opportunity to add some gusseting in to the A pillars. Here's a nice clear shot of the modifications to the gearbox to move the shifter forward: Next up was the headers/exhaust, carefully designed to meet the power requirements by John at JPWPerformance (Honda header guru). 4-2-1 packaged nice and low in the car. I then had everything cermaic coated to help reduce the heat, decided to do the muffler and flexi as well to have a consistent look and protection, really happy with how it came up. While the engine was still in I mocked up the wiring loom after putting myself through an HPA Wiring course to get up to speed on some gaps. Then the entire car had everything removed for the big strip and repaint of the interior, underside and engine bay, as I wanted to get away from the black which looks grubby very quickly. Going to be a rattle can job as it is a race car after all. Engine bay first: Stripped: Etch Primed: First light coat of grey: So while doing all that I found a rust spot, and started digging... That then highlighted a bodge someone had done, and the rust had spread abit... Least i found it now when it's easier to fix. Stripped the interior: Etch Priming (hard with a cage in the way): First light coats of grey: Still need to seam seal so avoiding those places for now. So current tasks are seam sealing, then get the car on a spit so i can clean up the underside and I can get the rust fixed. New driveshaft is coming together, flanges have been manchined. driveshaft is 900mm odd long and actually has less then 1mm change in length when moving from top of suspension to bottom, but we have allowed for 15mm movement.
  45. 17 points
    Finished up those flares tonight, the back ones are surprisingly hard to get a pic of in the shed light. I am pretty pleased with them, there were a lot of constraints to work within, but they came up good. I have also sorted the wiper mech, reassembled the dash and fixed the clutch hose. Tomorrow I'll get some more stuff to remake the mud flaps and have yet another go at stopping the power steering pump from leaking. Again. It's really minimal but the wof guy mentioned that it should be sorted.
  46. 17 points
    sorted some 1" blocks in the back I've got some new rear shocks and new front inserts, I'm going to attempt to use s1/2 rx7 inserts, as they were about a 1/3 of the price of factory 323 ones. Have read that a small spacer is needed on the base of the strut, so will see if the internet is true or lies. Will also look at sorting some rear bump stops, as a previous owner has simply chopped the current ones off on a flat square angle, so that needs to be fixed. Wof has just run out, so will tutu about with the suspension over the next few months and aim for it to be back on the road for November.
  47. 17 points
    Rimu coffee table out of a slab a mate milled, legs are 50mm shs squares I mitred and tig'd up
  48. 17 points
    some good progress today
  49. 17 points
  50. 17 points
    Bit of details It's a 1995 nissan 720. Has a sd23 2.3 non turbo diesel. Making a cuntsmashing 73hp. 5 speed floor change. 206,000kms allegedly genuine. I almost believe to be true as it drives so nice and it's not completely worn out. Also the old Barry I got it off didnt seem like the sort of person who would wind it. Real povo spec. Dash doesn't even have a trip meter. Gave it a decent clean after work today. Got all the takaka dirt and spiderwebs out of the dash. Blacked the tires and washed the body. Almost looks presentable What are my plans for it? I dont know. Has a few rust holes in the floor that I need to deal with. But likely slam and differnt wheel. And maybe zutututututu Who knows
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