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  1. 61 points
    motor in. pretty stoked tbh. its funny how quickly i forgot how little room there is around this thing when its back in the bay. also the bonnet fits. 2020-01-24_05-44-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-10 by sheepers, on Flickr
  2. 49 points
    Crikey! Its been over 3 months since I last updated this thread. The reason being I have been busy just enjoying summer and driving the Imp whenever I can. Its such a hoot . I'll use any excuse I can to take it for a hoon. We have now covered over 3500kms since getting it on the road at the end of May last year. Considering we work from home so no commute I was quite surprised at how much its had! Its been incredibly cheap to run (very easy to get over 40mpg while still having a laugh) and is sooooo much fun to trash along on windy roads. The reception we both get whenever either of us uses it for a shopping run etc is fantastic. It really does make people smile- which is nice A few various friends, some from Oldschool, have also taken it out for a good thrash. Its really interesting seeing how different people drive it, their style, ease with the handling and gear change, confidence. Generally they have all found it super easy to drive and all seemed to love the handling. If only it had another 50 bhp... I have done a few little jobs here and there to improve it. Back in the last exciting episode I left off with some sexy photos of a new Hitachi carb. I swapped the relevant linkages/cable stops I had made for the previous carb across onto the new one , bolted it in place and hoped for the best. Started the car up but flooded it because the new carb seems to have a more effective choke. Cleared it and started it proper. Straight away I noticed how better the engine sat at idle. I few twiddles of both the throttle stop screw and the idle mixture and I had it running sweet at idle. I then took it for a hoon up the road. WOW- what a difference. No more flat spots, the transition off idle was smooth as, the transition onto the secondaries was smooth. No stumbling when coming to a stop and a super smooth idle. The jerkiness at slow speed in high gear was gone. Overall a huge improvement. Best $120 I'd spent in ages!! Here's a pic of said wonder carb.. Next job on the list was to improve the brake pedal feel. They work really well but I would still prefer a firmer pedal. I knew that the original Honda Civic brake hoses on the front were far too long, needlessly long. So that was a good place to start. I ordered a pair of new stainless braided hoses from Nelson brake services, impressed I was with the previous set I had them make for my Viva. $55 each which is a bargain. I fitted them and noticed a big improvement in feel. much nicer firmer feel with a better defined bite point on the front. But it can still be better and I think that its possible the brand new Lada master cylinder fitted has a slightly weak seal. If I press hard on the pedal and hold the pressure the pedal will slowly sink. I can also pump the pedal up a bit harder and I have done so many attempts at bleeding it I am pretty sure there is no air in the system. @NickJ ever so kindly sent me a spare set of seals he had. However Nick has warned me that they are from the same vendor he got the master cylinder from, which did come wrapped up in newspaper with these two fellas on the front... Interestingly the seals are a odd shape I have not seen before in a brake cylinder. They have a curved edge, like a worn o-ring outer rather than a lip that is forced against the bore like most brake seals I know.... I thought this was possibly the problem but after some googling it turns out that this master cylinder design and bore diameter is a very commonly used item across many Fiats, ladas and some other brands. So the seal design must work fine in use. Hannah's mum has come over from Blighty for a holiday and essential sun. So over a few weeks previous to her boarding her plane I kept an eye out on Ebay UK for anything interesting. She ended up bringing this stash of goodies... Apart from the very obvious Marmite with proper actual taste I bought a Haynes cutaway book filled with lots of Terry Davey's best pics, plus two old magazines with road tests on Imps- one of which was printed at the release of the Imp and is filled with heaps of articles, photos and fold out pages with extra large exploded diagrams. A total treat for any Imp nerd and one which kept me thoroughly delighted while reading it in the sunshine on coffee breaks... Lastly and more recently I have decided to sell on my Viva wagon. I'm not using it and have utterly fallen for the charm of the Imp. I would rather someone else make something of the wagon and what money I get for it can go towards this car (as well as another few projects in mind, and probably pushbike stuff...) So with that in mind I decided the VIva did not need fancy Recaro seats but the Imp does. The Mx5 seats are ok but not quite as figure hugging as I like, nor do they seem to offer the same lumber support that the Recaros do. Plus the Recaros just look so damn nice and fit in well with the little nippy go kart like car ethos I like in Imps. I was worried about them being a lot heavier but they only weigh 3kg more each. I can live with that for the comfort they offer! So I had to add some slightly wider spaced mounting points. Because the mx5 seat mounting points were welded on the back/inside of the box sections before they were welded on the floor I had to instead make up some flanged threaded bosses... which I then tigged in place (rather then risk mig splatter everywhere)... It was when tigging I remembered the steel was zincalume and made my welding a bit messier then I had hoped as the fumes came through... But all good and strong. I shortened the reach adjust levers while I was at it.. I also had to fix the mountings for one of the plastic covers which no matter what I did with the old push in plastic rivets would always come loose and rattle about . I machined some wee stubs and epoxied them in place... This (blurry..) pic dates the seats somewhat... (kids- ask your parents) I finally mounted them in proper and they look great. Much better to sit in and they also swing forwards further than the Mx5 seats - which to be fair really were never designed for a car with rear seats were they. The Recaros have a more suiting mixture of grey and black which suits the interior better I think. However I'll still keep looking for some suitable red leather sports seats much like the ones in my previous Viva for they were the best looking seats I've yet seen, although being slightly wider for 'larger" Alfa Romeo drivers and covered in slippery leather they were in use a little less hugging than these cloth Recaros. So that lot takes us up to date. Next on the list is to fit some carpet, now that I seem to have finally sealed the windscreen properly although the car has not seen much rain recently- its been so dry here since the start of December. I'm still tempted to play with injection. I bought a spare engine for $100 from the local wreckers. Its a 1500 and has the later oval port head. Larger ports and larger valves. We stripped it down together and its pretty good as far as wear goes on the guides etc. Certainly a good head I can clean up and fit without any machining. I have a inlet manifold to suit. However.... I may still yet re-power it with another engine, yet decided on. I do really like the idea of regaining my rear parcel shelf, currently cut to allow the valve cover to go through, because its missed and would be very handy for the weekly shop! Datto engine in the van after pickup... A tiny little tool box a found at the warehouse which was just soooo cute I had to get it... Goes here.. A tiny little trailer we built for some locals kayaks. Had to size it up... I sold the race car shell and it headed south to Queenstown on what was a comically huge transporter. Fuck I laughed... My Imp making other normal cars look huge... Finally my parting shot- because well... I just like this photo
  3. 45 points
    so yea, it goes. had to push the throttle by hand because i haven't got the e throttle working yet. pretty stoked tbh, it goes fucking mint. if i can figure out the e throttle setup i might be able to drive it tomorrow. sorry the video is a bit shit, i was trying to doort and film at the same time.
  4. 41 points
    Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this time just a piece of steel brazed over the top of the rust holes. Fixed! As well as a few more bits around the seal. Picked up a pair off TA22 Celica fender mirrors from YAJ, that you can kinda see. I think they look good, but hard to tell when half the cars missing. Bought a Estima F series diff. Stripped in right down, cut off all the brackets and then noticed one of the housing tubes was very bent! One end was out by at least 10mm. Had a go at straightening it, wrapped some chain around the tube and some big u-channel, and then used a bottle jack and heat to push it out. Came out pretty good, close enough to then shorten it. Drew up a jig that held it all square and inline. Shortened it by 105mm a side, so it's the same dimensions drum to drum as the factory diff. Bought some MRP adjustable 4-link arms off @Cdarust Got a Altezza Torsen LSD head to swap in. Made some upper and lower brackets for the diff. Borrowed @oftensideways rotisserie. Going to raise the rear 4-link body mounts up. About 50mm higher for the lower mount, which should make the lower arm level and somewhere between 50-100mm higher on the top arm. The angles are currently far too much and I've gone this far so may as well, will be good to get rid of the lower body mounts as they're the lowest part of the car. It shouldn't effect the rear seat too much either.
  5. 34 points
    Havent been on here for a while but in the mean time have picked up a 52 Chev pick up that the plan is to have going for Beach Hop 2020. Running the OG 216ci straight 6 and 4 speed on the floor. Solid original truck with only a couple of bits of minor rust, A heap of newish chrome was on it, interior has been redone at some point and truck was more or less running and driveable. Stage 1 plan for it is: - Rust & Bang a few dents out - New timber deck -Artileries & Big whitewalls with new hub caps & beauty rings -Fulton Visor -6V to 12V Conversion -Heap of minor badges, mirrors etc -Slam -Vin -Roll 2020 Beach Hop Pics of when i first got it.
  6. 32 points
  7. 30 points
  8. 26 points
    Hey ladies & dudez. Just want to say thanks for making me and my not so oldscool-friendly Hilux feel so welcome over the weekend. Was great meeting you all and having a few yarns. I've got about 90 photos of most peoples rides - if you want to see them I can post them up (not sure what the preferred method for posting lots of photos is on here)
  9. 26 points
  10. 24 points
    Finally getting back into this after a few months away. Have decided to paint the outside in two sections which hopefully makes it a bit more manageable. The obvious way was to section off the roof. The other reason for doing it this way is to ensure there is plenty of paint in the gutters which are prone to rust. By sectioning it off, it gets painted when the roof is done, and again when the sides get done. This ensures maximum paint without making a mess. Have been sanding for the last couple weeks. My weak little office arms really struggled with painting the roof today but I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
  11. 24 points
    been doing some wiring. i found it pretty hard to take a photo that showed what ive done so the pix are a bit shit really. just imagine i had no loom at all, then i did. its a whole new world having new plugs and looms to make everything. i learned a whole bunch making this and im really happy with how its come out. i now have the body interface to sort out which will be a cool process and ill be able to fix heaps of stuff. bit of fucking around and then i can put the motor back in the car. 2020-01-23_07-16-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-23_07-15-57 by sheepers, on Flickr
  12. 22 points
    With show day now only a couple of days away, the rush was on. I had a car on stands, with a diff on the ground. Not ideal. Having found the shims to be ruined in the last post I ordered a set with a few different sizes from SNG Barratt in the UK, which arrived in record time. At the same time, I also decided that since the diff was on the ground, and I didn't want to have to pull it out again I would (stupidly) replace the diff output oil seal as that was leaking a few drops every now and then, so ordered a set of new seals. You can see the aftermath of the seal leaking here. All down the side of the diff. Also note the sweet two battery method for supporting the diff. This thing weighs a ton, so making sure it's well supported and stable is important. I did a lot of research into disassembly and reassembly of the output shaft, but by far the best resource was this Youtube video. The output shaft takes a bit of work to remove. After draining the diff, remove the lock wire and then the bolts holding the flange to the housing. With them removed its a case of using a soft hammer and a pry bar to lever the output shaft assembly out of the housing. I found it easiest to rotate the assembly and lever off the ears with the bolt holes. Eventually it will pop out. Looking a bit gross It looks like oil was bypassing the O-Ring, and leaking from the shaft seal. Disassembly of the assembly isn't hard. If you want to reuse the bearings and crush tube you will need to mark the nut and shaft (the shaft is SUPER hard and instantly rounded off the end of all my punches) and count the turns as the nut is removed. This is so you can tighten the nut to the same preload. Next tap down the locking tab, and remove the nut. The nut is HUGE and will be tight. I used a massive adjustable spanner. The nut requires a 1-7/8" or 48mm spanner. I happened to end up with both. The ring spanner is a couple of foot long. With the nut removed, its time to tap the shaft out. Support the assembly upside down (studs pointing down) from the mounting flange. Now carefully tap the end of the shaft with a soft hammer. This should start by freeing up the inner bearing, which can be removed, and then, in theory, should push the shaft out through the outer bearing, taking the seal with it. In my case this didn't go as planned, and the outer bearing more or less exploded and all the rollers decided they didn't want to be part of this anymore. This ruins any plans of reusing the bearings and crush tube. So with that in mind, I shot off a quick order to my Jag parts suppliers (Rodney Jaguar Rover Spares) and ordered some new bearings and a couple of crush sleeves. It turns out this bastard is the reason the bearing came apart That old crusty thing is the dust shield over the oil seal. Both that shield, and the oil seal were thoroughly rusted in place, so of course couldn't be popped out with the bearing as it should have. You cant see the state of this with the shaft/flange in place. I used a chisel to remove both One warning, that dust shield is obsolete now and unable to be supplied. After much research I'm of the opinion it's not needed, hence why Jag stopped making them and no one remade them. Some other models that use the same diff, and some later cars, don't seem to use them either. I guess if you can reuse yours, use it, otherwise I went without. One last thing I needed to do was remove the outer races of the bearings. I used a punch to tap these out While I waited for parts everything got a good clean in the parts washer. I didn't bother to strip off the old paint, as I wasn't going to do the rest of the diff either. A couple of days later, with new bearings and seals in hand, I set about refitting the new bearings. As mentioned in the video, I too ground down the old outer race and used that to press the new race in. This took off just enough that the old race wouldn't stick in the housing. I taped the race to a big socket and used this in the vice to press it in place And the inner race Next I packed the new outer bearing and insert it into the housing Followed by the oil seal. This was a prick to get into the housing. And then the shaft gets dropped through the bearing and seal, and then it needs to be tapped through the bearing. This takes a bit of whacking. It pays to check against the other output shaft as to how far you need to tap it down. I found it needs to go further down than you would expect, but if you don't go far enough it will upset everything from the flange outwards (brake disk sitting central in the caliper, and camber). If you go too far I suspect you will get binding on the housing, so take care. Once the shaft is in, flip it over and drop the new crush tube down the shaft and then the grease packed inner bearing goes in, followed by the locking plate and nut. Now its time to crush that tube. This takes a hell of a lot of force to do. The spanner I had was too short to get the required leverage, so I used my jack handle instead by placing the nut in the vice and using the studs on the flange to turn it. I protected the studs with some tube offcuts. In terms of setting the preload I will recommend you watch the above video as he goes into how to correctly set it, using a spring scale. Its not rocket science, but easier to just watch him do it. Once the tube is crushed and the preload is set, lock down the nut, install the new O-Ring and you're done. Reinstall the assembly in the diff. This will take some force with a soft hammer to tap it back in, just make sure the splines line up first. Now it was time to look at the nice new shims. Mmm, clean. They come covered in oil, but I chose to also slather them in copper grease to help stop them rusting or sticking in future. I went with the same stack on the right side, which was perfect for disk placement (central in the caliper), but the left side ended up needing another 0.10 shim to align the disk. I'm not sure if maybe it wasn't centered before I pulled it apart, or if the new rotor is slightly different. I test fitted the disks with the new shims and still got great runout readings, so proceeded with installing the calipers for the final time. I'm pissed off I have to reuse the old rubber flexi hose. I have a set of nice braided lines en route, but they have gone missing somewhere between the UK and NZ. They'll probably show up tomorrow... And the handbrake calipers went on next. I had some nice new brass springs to fit but I just couldn't free the old ones up, so gave in and fitted as they were. I did replace the two pins that were fitted dry as they had pitting and scoring. New locking tabs were fitted also. Now it was time for one of the worst jobs I've had to do on a car for a long time. Reinstalling the diff. If the exhaust hadn't been designed by an idiot it would have been fine, but instead, it had been built in such a way that there isn't quite enough space to slip the diff with brakes fitted between the two pipes, and it has no flanges, and the two pipes are welded to a bracket.... but we had to try anyway. On the jack it went (for now) And into the boot went a bunch of weights (to try and hold the back of the car down since there was no weight in it anymore) And then the struggle began. First, we tried to just lift it into place. Nope. No go. Wouldnt even get under the car on the jack. After much pissing around (including taking the diff off the jack, and realising we couldn't get it back on the jack under the car) we eventually wiggled it in on an angle, from the side, on the jack. It got pretty hairy. Then I tried to lift just the front so I could get the front mount in and use that to pivot the rear into place. Nope. Started to lift the car off the axle stands. Not good. We had been at this for a couple of hours now and getting pretty tired of it. Everything was fighting us. Even the damn arms were getting in the way. This one ended up being held forward by an axle stand and steadied by a couple of bungee cords attached to the house. Finally, plan B came into play. I tried to resist, but it just wasn't going to happen otherwise. Out came the reciprocating saw. It was cutting time. With the exhaust now in two pieces, things were looking up Now we had ample space for the brake calipers to clear the exhaust, and without much more faffing about, the whole lot slid nicely into place. Unfortunately, we kinda ran out of interest here, so sorry for the lack of photos. We bolted everything back together, and I sent my awesome helper/wife out to get some exhaust sealing tape and cement. She's a keeper for sure, not only did she return with what I needed, but also brought back some much needed sustenance. The idea was to use a clamp I purchased earlier for this purpose (always have a plan B), and clamp over the exhaust tape. The tape was to seal the gap, and the clamp to support the pipe and hold it in place. This plan worked well, and it seems we have an exhaust that is in one piece again and doesn't leak. The longish term plan is to have the exhaust redone anyway as it sits way too low, its too loud, and doesn't link the two banks so sounds weird. So, with everything buttoned back up, diff full of oil, rear brakes bled, it was time for a test run. The brakes are a little spongy, I suspect there is air in the front (the master cylinder level got a bit low in the couple of weeks of sitting without brakes), so will bleed that tomorrow, but the shudder is completely gone. Just smooth (if vague) braking. Obviously the worst was in the rear brakes, but I still need to replace the front rotors as they have worn undersize and still have excessive runout. Plus, who doesn't want flash slotted rotors? Everything seems to be working as it should too, which is promising. At this rate, it will be a push to get the car ready for Sunday, but since we are rolling, and driving again, that's a big weight off my shoulders. We can do it, it's so close.
  13. 22 points
    Wagspeed to you all. See you soon!
  14. 21 points
    I have finally sorted gearbox with a stock ctsv cadillac tune for the trans, it is like butter now... Will attempt to get to a night speed dragwars meet one night see what she does down the 1/4. I have put 4000 ks on it so far and back to daily driven...
  15. 20 points
    got the roof welded on to day
  16. 20 points
    Anyhoo I'd already pulled it apart and ol xin p. ling at the blow off valve factory has been putting the wrong size o rings in, got a couple of new ones and tried it, now it seals pretty well
  17. 19 points
  18. 19 points
    So, ages ago, I used to buy really shitty cheap cars for daily drivers. I would think "Well, I've got the skills to fix this 300,000km old shitter. So if something goes wrong I wont need to pay a mechanic!" Having this attitude skews the risk/reward equation (as I would later learn, unfavorably towards myself) when factoring in if a particular car is a good idea to buy or not. A major "aha" moment in my life, was where I realized that having additional skills can empower you but also lead you into unique sorts of traps too. I've missed so many weekends of my life where I could have been doing fun stuff, because knowing how to work on cars, meant I navigated my life into the situation where that's what I needed to do a lot. Like, isnt that strange? Instead of skills giving me extra options, they took away the option of doing anything else. Now, pausing to consider this idea for a moment. The skills trap is what is so fascinating about this project. In order to even consider taking this on, you obviously need to be incredibly talented beyond the level of most across a broad range of topics. But that's not enough, you also need to be confident and willing enough to be able to fix the potential issues, even ones you currently have no experience with. Yet, paradoxically, someone like this also has all of the requisite skills for assessing whether this is a good idea or not. Which, I would wager, most people, regardless of skill level, no offence, would say sight unseen purchasing an old TVR is "not". Not even the TVR Barrys sat on the required part of the skills matrix to get this car going. I applaud your efforts. WOF is an amazing milestone. If not for your efforts I doubt this car would have ever seen the road again.
  19. 19 points
  20. 18 points
    NZV8 mag feature, Beach Hop mag cover car 2018 and has been driven all over the show and doesnt seem to miss a beat! https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34313-the-westpala/page/10/#comments
  21. 18 points
    yea ive just been dailying this and going places slowly. its just got its first warrant after compliance which it flew through no drama. now thats done i thought id put on the new big brakes that i bought for it a while back. usual story, LN106 hilux calipers with DBA272 rotors (which the guys at castle hill Auto One in Sydney got made as a small batch because DBA dont make them anymore) and R32 GTR pads. bit of trimming of the backing plate and it all bolts on. these calipers work a million times better with the 1" master cylinder than the factroy two pots do. much better pedal feel and way better progression of the brake pressure. anywho, its all back together and working so now ill spend some time bedding it all in but its already a zillion times better. 2020-01-27_12-25-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-27_12-25-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-27_12-59-14 by sheepers, on Flickr also these aren't the wheels im keeping on the car. it will in the near future get some jet black steel smoothies with small moon caps so you wont be able to see the red calipers.
  22. 17 points
  23. 17 points
    Update - rod tune complete and now the 51 IDA is singing. If anyone is off to Reunion next week come say hi - I’m there Friday to Sunday. The brake master sht itself and leaked on the RH chassis rail.... I ordered another master (Mazda 808) and we bled it last night. That and found that I was missing a lower rear calliper bolt so I’ve replaced that. fresh VTNZ WOF today.
  24. 16 points
    ive been doing a bunch of wiring tidy up stuff which is pretty boring really. i did manage to wire 4 coils round the wrong way and fry them. 2020-02-11_11-24-07 by sheepers, on Flickr which meant i needed to buy some new ones. 2020-02-11_11-23-59 by sheepers, on Flickr coils are from a 1JZ-FSE direct injection engine, a couple of others too. they required modification via a sanding belt to fit but what doesn't need sanding. what now? well, most systems are go and ive been trying to start it. it almost went, gave that phut phut im trying noise but no actual running yet. i have some weird things to sort out regarding how it was set up vs how it should be set up (cam triggers are not making sense at this point, was only getting LH cam triggers but the computer was configured to RH cam trigger, its exactly the same as it was in this regard but it still dont make no sense) but ill keep plugging away and in theory it should go.
  25. 16 points
  26. 16 points
  27. 16 points
  28. 16 points
  29. 16 points
    Making progress. Completely std build using good S/H parts and all new bearings/rings. Once I got all the required parts it’s gone together reasonably well.
  30. 16 points
    In my attempt to make the africa twin look nice again i have been playing with / teaching myself how to fibreglass. the RD04 was missing the stock tail section and side panels, of which are stupid money to aquire, so i wanted to make some that look alright and also make the bike slimmer than the stock once so panniers arent too wide. I watched a few youtube vids on how to make plugs / molds / lay up glass then headed down to a local composites workshop and had some sweet yarns with the barry that owned it who preceded to sell me all the bits i need, worked out so much cheaper than buying smaller kits. first up i needed to make a tail section, so i could then have that piece finished to make sure the side panels fit up to the tail nicely, and its the smallest piece so probably the best bit to learn on. first up i brought a sheet of XPS foam from bunnings, this stuff is pretty cheap and being closed cell sands nicely to get the shape of your plug. bit of mucking around and i got this- Next up was to lay one coat of fibreglass cloth over it. Please note that you need to use epoxy resin for this, not polyester as it will eat the foam. The reason for the tin layer of fibreglass is so you dont accidentally sand though the bog process and muck up the shape of your plug. once that i set i covered the entire plug in about 3mm of body filler/bog and left to cure. once cured i sanded it down to a nice finish. next step was to spray a coat of dark etch primer onto it, as seen in the photo below, once the etch primer was on i brushed on 3 thick coats of high build thinner primer. this gives a good surface to sand back to an immaculate finish. the reason for the dark etch primer is it lets you know when you are sanding though the primer filler before getting to the bog. sorry i didnt get a photo of the high build primer filler. once the primer filler is left as your final surface, i rubbed on and let cure 3-4 coats of release wax, and then brushed on a thin layer of PVA, pretty much a special PVA glue that helps release the mould from the plug, the fibeglass barry reccomended this stuff and it sure makes life easier. once the plug is all ready i brushed on 2 thick coats of gel coat, this was the first one that was too thin, around 2mm is ideal. after the gel coat i built up two layers of chop strant matt using polyester resin. this gives the mold which when released looks like this, the plug got a bit stuck and damaged in the process here. Once i had the mold i then repeated the process of wax / PVA / gelcoat and then layed up a final piece using a layer of cloth, 2 layers of chop strand mat and then another layer of cloth. once popped out the final product looks like this im pretty happy for my first try, next time i will use a lighter grade chop strand matt for the mold, i used too heavy of mat and there was airbubbles present between the gelcoat and glass which made this defect, but i will give it a sand back and paint anyway. with the right practice and finesse, you can easily get a part that pops out as a finished product, but man it sinks up some time. Just had this sweet little XR style tail light turn up that will get mounted on this guard next up is the side panels, the blank cutout is shown here but there is lots of shaping to go on still to make it look good.
  31. 15 points
    Surprisingly I still own this. I figured i'd better update the build thread now, it has more metal in it now than it did 2.5 years ago. With a year of a long distance relationship, moving house, changing jobs, other cars and a fairly sizeable task ahead to fix all the rot, progress kind of came to a halt not long after the last update. In the last year or so though I have been chipping away at it, so far I have cut and welded the l/h inner guard, heater bubble, l/h floor pan, inner and outer sill section, rebuilt the bottom of the l/h A pillar, l/r wheel arch inner and outer, outer sill section, and probably some other small bits I can't remember. I also cut the front valance off, and I am very thankful for the abundance of pressed panels available new for old Fords in that I got a new valance, front guards, and a myriad of repair sections to stitch in, without these I probably wouldn't have taken this on tbh. Here it is on its way to its new garage: Some repairs to the firewall where every Escort rots - under the heater bubble. I've made an indent in the new heater bubble so water can actually drain away, rather than collecting in the bottom of the bowl and rotting through the seam that joins it. It mightn't look tidy, but it's solid and there's good penetration through to the other side, so I'm reasonably happy. The l/h side floor section was probably the most daunting repair in terms of size, I ended up cutting the floorpan back almost to the seat mount before I found decent metal, but after I zapped in the floor section the outer sill and pillar fitted up pretty nicely. This was the most recent repair - the rear wheel arch - which someone in the past has had a go at, not rust proofed behind the repair, and it's rusted again. There was a patch welded into the outer arch, which someone had beaten in with a ballpein hammer and shaped with bog, and a large patch on the inner which had gone rotten. It all had to go, I ended up cutting away the inner half and remaking it, and welding in a pressed section into the outer. All that's left now is the l/h C pillar and vent, probably the r/h C pillar too, the bottom of the r/h A pillar, a random little hole in the rear apron, make some new front guard supports and attach the front. I have a full set of factory bronze tinted glass and chrome trim mouldings for the windows, which will probably end up on the car too. And this is pretty much how it sits today!
  32. 15 points
    You're running out of data arn't you
  33. 15 points
  34. 15 points
    Anybody still holding ya breath? so ya never could get the brakes apart and I realized this project needed more time and money than I had at the moment. So off to the weed patch while I built myself a house and spent every penny I’d ever saved and some I haven’t yet. Best part of that is I now have a nice warm shop and needed something to tinker on. Pulled the Rambler up and evicted a few mice, holes in the floor are maybe a tad bigger but no real new problems. I’ve been thinking of finding a donor rig for a repower. The Rambler is leaf sprung rear wheel drive so I’m thinking a complete drivetrain would solve a buncha problems. Been eyeing crashed two wheel drive pickups on Craigslist and FB. For now I decided to pull the engine and tranny and see about welding up my rust problems. Coupla holes in the floorboards and the drivers inner fender is going to need some work. The simplicity is amazing, coupla hrs and a tractor assist and we have a empty hole drivers side tires leak air so bad I had to pump them up half a dozen times to push it 20’ into the back corner...... and yes the back corner does have purple and green stripes on da wall . lush I know gotta say the flathead has sex appeal, all da cool kids want generators over alternators
  35. 14 points
    Well I finally found some time and got my ass into gear and finished straightening up the roof today. Came out pretty good i recon.
  36. 14 points
    Treesus christ we're at least over half way
  37. 13 points
  38. 13 points
    guard all done ,on to the front guard and door frame next
  39. 13 points
    New ragtop cover for the ragtop time. Brought the bug inside work, took the old cover off and had fun removing all the sticky duct tape glue, fuck that stuff. All the parts layed out. Cut the new cover on the esko, perfectly square cad cut. Sewed the hems over and added slits for the bow to sit inside as factory, the old cover didn't do this so you had to be careful not to end up with a parachute attached to the roof. All mounted, I added some thick felt to the front bow, not sure I like it, if it doesn't pack down I might remove it, looks to chunky. Looks sweet folded back. Will now start thinking about the inside headlining.
  40. 13 points
    started seeing if i can get the interior in and see what broken and what goes where.(they will need a good upholster to sort it all out...has been painted black and lots of rips.) started with the back seat. the bottom clips in the car that hold the bottom of the seat have broken off so i drilled hols and riv-nutted them. the back seat frame will need to be straightened after sitting around with crap on them for years. as for the base and as most of you know the base is held in with these little thin tabs. and screws into these small hole with what is basically a PK screw so i cut up some 3mm thick box section and welded them on and cut the old ones off drilled new holes and used rivnuts back seat all bolted in. i bolted the front seats in and realized im in a situation ive never been in before.(i have moved seats,bolted in other seats,,,) but im not a small person and normally everything isn't where it should be for me...like controls .gauges facing me ect ect. but im still yet to weld the dash and everything in place ....so i could make things better for me while im at it.. i bolted the EPSC in place (still fits as same pedal box as facelift) and put gear stick in gearbox and sat the center console in as well. now i can start putting dash all in to suit me....still need to make it all fit around the wiper motor and heater i made to fit the facelift dash. on a side not ...1st time i have ever had seats in this car .........of cause i sat in it slamming it threw the gears making engine sounds.............i am human
  41. 12 points
    One of my favourite ones. Very chilled. Lots of great people. We got home at 5pm today. Long drive home for sure. 200 Litres of fuel all up for our 1300km journey. Thanks for the Bridge hangs, River float, Great Yarns, Platter feeds, Nikis Cheesecakes, Geoffys Burgers, Neds Garlic Yoghurt, Building Custom matchbox cars, All of the sun & Swims, mental health yarns with so many mates, Runs with Sean & Rez, Watching Bizzo & Loz putting up the tent , Kickers Camp Setup, Alans Lounge, Lee bringing me a Camo shirt. So much more
  42. 12 points
    Arrived into Hahei this evening, all set for scrutineering in the morning then an afternoon looking around, much fun ahead.
  43. 12 points
    This is glue, very strong stuff. And Hurrah! Interior is a much nice place to be now with all the carpet back in. Still loud as all hell inside, maybe a little better around town, so that's a win. Got a roll of canvas through work, so I'm going to make a new sunroof cover with the industrial sewing machine we have. Pretty easy to do, its just a big square shape with a douple hem on each side. Shit is spendy, lucky I only need 1.2mtrs.so nice, could have bought another vinyl cover for half the price, but this sewfine canvas is triple layered lushness. Then I'll reattach the inside headlining which actually helps the rag work properly. Good it have you back ol' girl.
  44. 12 points
  45. 12 points
    NZ Classic Car have done an article on the GT in this months edition
  46. 11 points
    Now I just have heaps of welding to do...
  47. 11 points
    Took Friday off to get a 4 day weekend and make a serious push on the crown. Some rain and some socialising took a chuck out of my time but still managed to get the shell, hood, boot and gaurds in fill primer. Found a few spots of rust on the bottom of the rear doors so will drop them round to the panel beater to have that sorted, then the doors will get the same treatment. For now, here's way too many photos of a car in primer, but given its never been this straight or single colour in my ownership, I'm getting excited. Blocking back will take a while, but the end is in sight! Then I can start on the manual conversion which I've been slowly gathering parts for and aside from a driveshaft (will get mine modded to suit hopefull) I've got all the bits there. Including a hand brake centre console which is sitting in Japan still and I really need to pay for the shipping to get it here for when I need it...
  48. 11 points
  49. 11 points
    One last shift of work tonite then off at Midday tomorrow for a super long drive day and night to Wagnats
  50. 11 points
    Makes a mess but seems to be cutting alright. It's pretty inconsistent on the back side, I'd be surprised if it was actually in balance before.
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