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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/12/19 in all areas

  1. Still fixing rust, waiting to get my CO2 cylinder back before I can continue with that side of things. Enough rust in this thread so will keep that progress to a minimum. Bit of boot rust to sort, one corner example. Tacked up, have since finished this ready for primer/fill/paint. Doors are next, had some sheet folded up to have a nice straight bottom edge on the doors. Was going to patch it in sections, but it would take longer and i'd likely have ended up with an averagely not straight edge. Before: With new section clamped in plac
    14 points
  2. Ha Left it till the last minute before drag day, finally got around to getting some 50 thou shorter pushrods 5 years later. Put them in tonight but a bit late for road testing and waking up all the neighbors, but it did start, and didn't rattle Also rock auto to the rescue again, got a distributor with a vac advance so in another 5 years I might get around to putting it in
    10 points
  3. Looks like I might finally have the KJet pressures right. Its running and idling much better. First time its idled under 2000rpm.
    6 points
  4. Sigh, It seems like my life is a never-ending cycle of messing with KJet fuel pressures. But hopefully, this will help My quality German made KJetronic pressure testing setup arrived. Huge thanks to MissingParts on eBay, as this is some proper quality gear, and for less than I paid for the other setup. Nicely crimped ends, with quality rubber and fabric braided hoses The seller has a great sense of humour. "For oldtimer cars" I hooked the new setup up, which was a lot easier with the banjo fittings, rather than the generic screw fittings Now it was time to
    5 points
  5. So a few months back a hotrodder on the book of faces had stripped a Thames van that he is turning into a rod and had offered the standard front and rear ends "free to a good home". The van has been sitting in a paddock for a good few years so everything is covered in a good deal of surface rust but otherwise seems fairly solid. Since my current plans are to keep the stock upper and lower wishbones and stub axles I figured it was worth having spares. Only problem was that he was based in New South Wales. Anyway, beggars can't be choosers, so yesterday I completed a 1,200 km round trip and am n
    5 points
  6. I power washed my GN yesterday. My jacket is pretty well impregnated with dust. Do you think we should box it up and send back? I know how much Tama Iti hates the white man taking his land
    4 points
  7. 4 points
  8. I really was at a loss cutting log without a smartphone.
    3 points
  9. Yup temporary seat removal is the only other thing. Gold star for Terry.
    3 points
  10. Basically clocked life now.
    2 points
  11. So I have managed to find an awesome friendly panelbeater to carry out the rust repairs. Any panels I can't buy he is fabricating.
    2 points
  12. Bart - NAUGHTY Welding cast is an absolute no-no so please ignore Bart cos that is super dumb advice. If you are changing hubs and stubs, why not change suspension arms too and retain the correct ball-joints?
    2 points
  13. It's illegal, but you could have the taper welded up, and reamed to the smaller size. "THOU SHALT NOT MAKE A WELD UPON ANY FORGING WHICH IS EMPLOYED IN SUSPENDING OR STEERING A MOTOR VEHICLE" However, done tidily, it's impossible to prove it's been done. However depending on the metal used, it might go hard as fuck and need to be annealed before it can be reamed. Since you're not a welder be trade @MaxPower please dont do that. ;-P And if you do please use a gasless MIG or damp welding electrodes. (With 5 pairs of sunglasses)
    2 points
  14. I have a timeless log sharn It pertains to my morning dump at Waikerimoana.
    2 points
  15. Hmm..... how can i make this work.
    2 points
  16. I better rustle up some quality sharns for next year Please select from the following Driving piles with a crane from the 70s and a 3T hammer Thermit welding train tracks Detroit powered jetboats The complexities of driving a shipping tug
    2 points
  17. All footage acquired. Lemme see what magic I can conjure up. Aim to have it out late tomorrow night. But end of the weekend at the latest. Cheeeeeeers people for being amazing.
    2 points
  18. Mesh filters for the carbs arrived yesterday. Should be pretty cool.
    2 points
  19. Managed to get acouple of 35mm film photos at DGR too which didn't turn out too bad decided i should check out what was wrong before Te Urewera, pulled the rocker cover off and one of the adjuster grub screws for the rocker arm had worked its way out and had a bit of a party in the top end i dug it out and it looks to have been smashed about by the valve spring, i put a new one in and got it going mint. top end is a little rattly now but it works so im not touching it. Rode the Te Urewera ride weekend just been and had a hell of a time so much fun smashing the bike about, ge
    2 points
  20. The cylinder head for this thing is a later 8V one from a Euro Spec Starion. It's a good one because it doesn't have any jet valves which usually lead to cracking issues. I've done some simple port work to this one, just de-shrouded things and decreased the short side radius on the intake port, and smoothed things out. When I did this I didn't have any access to flow-bench gear, so its just common sense stuff with no measurement to back it up. I took it to Kelfords, and they tidied it up further for me, and ground the cam to 272/272 @ 0.1mm (230/230 @ 1mm), 10.5mm net valve lift. Should get me
    2 points
  21. The motor for this thing is a case of using up parts I've had under the bench for many years. Before, and while I was at Uni I was a register biscuit at Repco, and took the opportunity to stock up on bits I knew I'd need one day. Even finding a lot of this stuff can be hard these days, let alone the high price so much of it seems to now command! The block is a really early Starion one, so is stamped G63B and is wideblock. It also has no oil feed for the rear bearing of the upper (RH) balance shaft. This is great, as I'm deleting these anyway for simplicity, so its an oil feed I don't need
    2 points
  22. As this is my daily, I'm structuring the modifications to have as little off-road time as possible. This usually means buying the parts I need, doing the modifications, swapping them in, then then on-selling the factory gear. A good example of this is the rear axle. As this is a 'Sport' model with the 2l motor, it has the larger 8" crownwheel diff (often called the mitsy 'big' diff). This is great, as they're really strong, far stronger than I require, but it is also pretty easy to get other gear sets for them. Starions (another long-running vice of mine) also came with the big diff (5 st
    2 points
  23. This ute has been a constant fixture in my life for many years now, and its pretty easily my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. It's never let me down, when something does break its so simple you can fix it on the side of the road, and it just gives you 'feel good' vibes when you drive it :-). I bought it from the original owners year ago, and it had never been more than 20k's from Sheffield (where it was sold new) in its life. It's in good nick for one of these, with no major rust issues to speak of. The cab corners are all good, and the wellside is also rust free and pretty much dent fre
    1 point
  24. Just sit right back and you'll hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip That started from this tropic port, aboard this tiny ship... Bought an old Seagull outboard as it was local and I was inspired by @Abarth 's spectacular glitter flake blue model. I know nothing about these things, apart from old and two-stroke. That seems reason enough. Serial number denotes a 1957-58 Century model, nominally 4hp, and first thing I did was knock up a wooden stand so I could have a decent look and see what's missing (it turns over at least)... On getting it home I remembered I had an
    1 point
  25. Would've been a hell of a lot easier if my testing kit didn't screw me over! That's a couple of hundred dollars I'll never see again.
    1 point
  26. Awesome result! I can wholeheartedly relate with your issues when I had my Audi - I never personally got as balls deep into playing with the control pressure as you have, I sent the car to a chap that knows more about the system than Bosch do...
    1 point
  27. Despite being side tracked with work family life in general there has been some good progress. All the side window are in. I had a problem with the left rear door, the channel that the rubber goes in was missing. This was a door I bought to replace the original. I bent up a channel and pop riveted it in. From the factory this was spot welded but since I have nice new paint the welder was staying far away. The next job was the rubbers and channel then drop the window in the hole. the whole process felt harder than the other side I did a while ago. When I went to put the quarter window
    1 point
  28. I like this (for a GN) https://atelier-medusa.fr/en/suzuki-gn-125-en/ The fuel gauge especially
    1 point
  29. Sorted the DR200 header pipe to fit. Flange end needed to be sanded down about 1mm dia. Have to remove tool box from GN. But otherwise it goes on with no issues. Would recommend offsetting the regulator a bit to avoid the heat and perhaps some reflective foil under the battery box. Header pipe ends just under the battery. Not sure what to do about a muffler and how to route it where it's not going to be in the way of panniers/pillions. May have to just make one up to fit in the allocated spot I suspect it will free up some power. The standard pipe ap
    1 point
  30. Sweet project! My father has a couple of these stashed away. I should pull them out
    1 point
  31. Yeah that's Doug, as in the kids 'dug' him up in our back yard (one cried one laughed). He looks after my safety gear. Must hide him in work site excavations to see what happens...
    1 point
  32. Love the safety skull in the background.
    1 point
  33. Temporary seat removal? BTW, my plate is 4562KK - spooky!
    1 point
  34. I definitely have full tuck BORT a few times. Blooooooody epic. Showed the Swedish tourists (male sorry) at work today some of the footage and they were shocked at that many bikes turning up for a ride like this.
    1 point
  35. While all you hard ppsc cunce were sleeping in the lake us FOAMERS were living it large in our Chalet
    1 point
  36. Recycling reo ... recycling anything that will get it done, comrade.
    1 point
  37. This is the slow one. 5.6 seconds. Although it got a 20HP bump in an update on Friday so might be lower now.
    1 point
  38. I'll send you a sticker when you tang and desprang.
    1 point
  39. Might dab a bit of 'direct to rust' satin black on the bits that need it... Did some things today. Stripped the Villiers carb, not too bad inside, a few previous bodges made it tricky to get apart, but they're a simple beast... And cleaned, lubed, reassembled and ready to go... And assembled the ignition too. Didn't feed the brown wire corrrectly but didn't notice till I checked old pics. Should run under the insulation plate in the points box, but soldered now so she'll be right. There's a new Villiers condenser under there too... And araldited a new felt pad to the sprung
    1 point
  40. Righto bitches. @cletus pointed out the issue with my turbo positioning, ie the drain and the slope and the strong possibility of non draining etc. This caused me to spend considerable time looking for both electric and mechanical scavenger pumps, including a brief talk with Skidfactory's Al about what pumps he uses (which I only mention to give myself the opportunity to let you know that Big Al himself thinks the truck is 'mint'. I know, I am a cunt, but shit its Big Al). Whatever, this all caused me to decide to move the turbo so it can drain properly, it now sits thus;
    1 point
  41. And i have just the thing for you then....
    1 point
  42. Didn't do much over winter as I can't finish rust work till it's warm enough to park it outside all day to dry. So just a quick update, will try get the next one out a bit quicker. Have been pulling the front end apart to send parts away to be worked on. So figured i'd replace all consumables while I was in there. Out came the steering rack, which had about 5mm of grime on it, along with crossmember. Whipped both those out and left the engine in the bay supported on blocks. Excuse the blur. Rack and cross-member are now clean as a whistle. Replaced the tie rod ends and boots
    1 point
  43. i havent posted any car ramblings in a rather long time.been here, there and everywhere. but since being home my daily morphed into something rather obscure. its been a long journey to this point with alot yet to come, many good times with much heart ache. one of the earliest photos moving things around when i got home this is the last trip it made with r160 rear end, but did have fc rx7 front end by this point many many axles and 3 gearboxes later i had to do what i do best and go way overboard so changed to a 6 speed box when all
    1 point
  44. Its taken me 3 shed nights but I've finally finished changing the oil. I had to make a new sump gasket that I forgot to take a photo of. There was nothing particularly nasty to report in the oil. I now know that to clean the oil filter I have to remove the hood, grille, number plate, radiator & undo the front engine mount bolts... Happy days.
    1 point
  45. Well Xmas break was a bust, ended up finding more and more rust to fix. Not that I care, I knew it was an 80's Toyota from day one. Just means the goal posts are shifted as to when it will be legal. Hoping to have it sorted for Nats. Have been slowly chipping away at it, slowly filling a container will rusty bits of car. My shrinker / stretcher has been pretty useful, makes creating curved sections much easier. Anyway, some pics of some of the repairs. No point posting the photos of all repairs, as ain't no one got time for that. Still have a many repairs to do, just need to pull finger a
    1 point
  46. Haven't done bugger all on this recently. Had been trying to source some cert happy 14" wheels, but that didn't happen. Wheels held the build up a little bit as I needed them to start working out other things that will happen later. Anyway, some pics of the limited progress since last update. "Built" a frame to straighten out the headlight area of the front. Didn't take too long with a handful of long tek screws, to get it much closer to the right shape. Happy enough with the results, so that will get a primer / paint later on. Amazingly complicated alignment tool:
    1 point
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