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Pic from my last house before I sold the '61 Tbird. With all the cars I had to store outside, the bloody KE was the one in the garage. Moved to a better house and they all get shelter now

I'm taking this bloody car to Invercargill ...the scenic route via Northland.

Bottom pic made me think of GTA, I hope you used that stunt ramp.

Hi just starting my build thread for our 1976 triumph 2.5tc after many months of looking for a car to buy this trump came up for sale in Nelson, with many messages we decided to make the trip from Dunedin and meet in Christchurch, After 1 hour of owning trumpy we pulled over in Ashburton to check all was ok and noticed we had oil leaking every where After 5 hours of waiting we managed to get trailered back to timaru, stayed the night and up early to fix it to get the old girl home, as we were taking the filter housing off we noticed the o rings had split, the previous owner left the old one when he did his last oil change. after a trip to repco new oil, filter kit and a few washes we had her holding oil again. it turns out the bolt holding the housing on was to long and this may be why there was two o rings to try and seal it. after a very long two days we finally made it home and trumpy got a much needed wash after getting use to the car we decided there was some things we wanted to tidy up started to paint the air filter assembly and give all the chrome a good polish. we also put new plugs and leads as it looked like the had been on there since new, as we topped up the wiper fluid we seen it was clogged and filled with algey.... who knows how long that has been sitting with trumpy all clean and running much better we took it for a drive. since owning it have noticed the starter motor has been occasionally sticking on and yesterday went to turn it on we had nothing only ignition lights .... after a few descent wacks with a hammer she started ( no hills where we live) so we are on the look out for a replacement and any advice on our one , we are also looking for a manual gear box overdrive would be preferred here is our link to the discussion thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53434-matt-lauras-1976-triumph-25tc/#entry1729123 the next job on our list is sort the starter motor.

1965 Pontiac Catalina Ventura sports coupe. 389 big block 4bbl. Torque Thrust 2 with 10 inch at rear with 295s. Factory sagged "suspension". Was extremely rusty when I got it. All glass out, new steel around front and rear shields, complete new rear deck panel, entire weather channel around boot, boot floor, rear pillars, front guards blah blah Was missing ignition key so was being started south Auckland flat blade styles. Binned the ignition barrel and made it push button. Probably need better switches though Interior was naff so ripped it all out, recovered the seats, new carpet etc. Where's the finished pic??? Did a quick bog and paint and now it's wof'd and reg'd. Full panel and paint on the backlog!

Cheers all. Yeah the plymouth is my sorta thing. It was an impulse buy at the time, but whaddaya gunna do. I nearly bought a 71 barracuda instead but it was more work than I wanted given the other projects so this thing was a good fit. I'm not in trade, I'm actaully a network engineer for a bank. I just love working on cars. Once I receive the round tuit, they go up for sale and I start another. I'll start some life keepers eventually but I'm honing my repair and painting skills first

1974 Corvette Crankin' 350 that's been pulled apart at some stage, has mild cam. Bought this when we needed a car to drive around when staying with my partner's uncle in Tennessee. I wanted a early 70s firebird or camaro, but this came up at a good price and the mrs twisted my arm so bought it. The condition was a little worse than I would have liked given the time frame I needed it on the road by and the fact I had to work outside in 35 degree muggy heat with tools found at walmart. Just like every American car I've ever owned, I had to rewire the signal and brake light circuits and other electrical faults. Replaced both seatbelts, door cards, carpet, dash and most interior bits. Needed new brake calipers, 4 tyres, and a good engine service. After finishing up in TN, we drove 2,000 miles to LA, via St Louis and across to Denver. Here's me wondering what the burning smell is broken down under a bridge in Kansas. Quick wire strip and tape job and we're on our way. Some pretty stuff in Aspen Full panel and paint when I get to it. Fibre glass body means no dents, factory color is a great metallic blue so piece of piss, will start and finish it in a weekend.

Iv been plodding away at this. Redrilled the disks to Holden hq/chev PCD (modern mills have sweet digital readouts that make this very easy) I laid everything out on the lounge floor and sat everything together. I made a cad drawing and printed it 1:1 scale, cut it out and test fit it, then tweaked and repeated 5-6 times. Iv done something slightly unusual and decided to trim the bottom of the steering arm mounting boss so that the plate can go under it (and will be clamped down by the arm too) because this gives me a far more professional looking shape than this: I have also added onto the bottom of my adaptor plate the steering lock stopper as this has been cut off the end of the steering arm too (they did this in the above photo also but didn't add the stopper) Then I transfered my best template to sheetmetal and made sure it still fit ok. Then had a single item laser cut to again check everything lines up as expected. It's pretty damn good! I do need to spin up 4x spacers (to go between caliper mounting cradle and my adaptor, at the moment it's got a stack of washers) get some pads and then hopefully can document everything and send it away for tech approval ( or something) Huge thanks to Clint for answering my questions!

Uluru

Carbs fully in and tuned! Were quite fidgety things to get in, but running a treat. Had to adjust fuel lines a bit to keep them clear of exhaust manifold. Took her down to mission bay for a hoon and some pics.. Exhaust sounds sick.. Have got panel work and paint in the back of our minds for sometime soonish. Anyone know anywhere good+cheap?

1973 Plymouth Satellite/Roadrunner Performance built mopar 360, pretty biffo little donk, peels out nicely. Console stick shift. Cragar 10 inch at rear with 275s. Haven't done much to this one yet. It has aftermarket race buckets in it, so I sourced some original buckets and recovered them and the rear bench too. Needs minor rust work then full panel and paint as it was painted by lazy American bogsmiths. It's a horrid color so I'm not phased.

Discuss Here 1979 dirty 30. Mildly tinkered 4k with 5 speed. Kings in front 2" blocks in rear, some sort of boy racer exhaust that's only just tolerable enough to stay on the car. Impul Hoshinos now with proper fitting 205s, came with stretched pizza cutter rubbish. Also came with free rust and bog. All welded up ready to start making crappy bits shiny. Berroca piss yellow ain't gonna fly Door frames and centre pillar will make a big difference in black so did that last night. Doors don't need to come off again now which is good because I'm sick of that.

Some big trees.

Pics of grinder?

Nah longer rod for same crank stroke GRAPHSSSSSSS The shorter the rod, the higher the peak acceleration. Hence the advantage of longer rods for a given stroke.

Should go to a truck workshop and offer to buy the service boys 4x doz or something and a bit of diesel for the cleaner to use their wash bay.

I stalled the bug coming off that ferry/ramp once, restarted and dropped the clutch for sweet steel skids!!

Went back to this possum palace place again, super muddy and slippery. Only one way to get around the place, max rpm. I also mowed their lawn, since im such a good cunt

Hello all, been a long while since I have had a car worthy of "oldschool" status but I have finally parked my arse in a cool little Esky. HISTORY She is a 1980 mk2 Escort 4 door and has had a rebuild carried out by The Surgery here in Wellys. The guy I got it from was the one that spent the time and coin on her and up until 2 weeks ago it was his pride and joy. She has a rebuilt 1600 crossflow, 4 speed and tons of character! All the body was stripped back, rust removed, paneled and painted in a sexy shade of black. The Interior has all been reupholstered too. The not so good. The previous owner was driving to work one morning a couple weeks back (risking it with no wof/no reg) and was rear ended by a 16 year old learner driver. No insurance. The damage done is bad but not terminal by any means. Long story short, he was heartbroken, going through some major life changes and just wanted to scrap the esky. I spoke to him and worked out a fantastic price and that evening I picked her up. Pics, cos whats a build thread without them. Discuss here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/50660-666dans-1980-mk2-escort-discussion/

I thought that picture was showing they had mounted the panels sideways lol at phone jack for e-mail

Piss

Just buy a fucking monster billet of steel, and spend a fews days non stop turning handles on a lathe.

You can come use my steam cleaner whenever you like Richard

Someone graph it.

One of the main reasons is slower acceleration of the piston at TDC and bdc. For backyard cowboys like us it means you can use a cheaper piston and rod due to lower stresses. I read somewhere that the screaming v10 f1 motors had to run a real long rod as at 20k rpm the piston would out accelerate the flame front at the point of ignition and lose torque!

Etch primer laid out. More to come soon. Chur Tai

So jealous right now !

Gotta love going in to buy bearings and seals for ya obscure 2 stroke motor that was built on 1/12/1960 in Germany and they're 'off the shelf' items.

yeah, lookin good. love the napier fords with matching bonnets up

Yay! Local wreckers had a recess front wagon with an intact bonnet and latch support. Now all I need is a new driver side fender and for everything to fit properly...

My plate arrived I also replaced rear wheel bearing today as the L/R was getting noisy as hell. It was surprisingly pain free for a Sunday morning job using the bare minimum tools which was nice. The difference it has made is fantastic!

Jack the back and fit a nine inch

Awesome stuff Zac and I am truly glad you have found your real vocation in life. But I do think you need to step back just a bit and take a look at the elephant in the room. Your turbo FD thingee is going in the wrong direction. If you are to properly modify your car in the real kiwi way you know you have to remove the hairdryers, give the plates some mean as drill ports, fit a Nikki with mechanical secondries and a set of gillies. Then take it to work and show them white coat wearing boffins how a proper car goes hard. For what it is.

Still accumulating a few things. -The matching bonnet is on the way (TE27 sprinter) -The grill support/radiator support panel is on the way. The sprinter version which varies from the Levin and Corolla range. Quite the steal. -TE27 levin boot (just in better condition than the one I have currently). Though I will try find a sprinter badge to match the front guards. The car will also be painted this blue/turquoise colour. It is an original Toyota colour but will have to somehow find the paint code for it. We also have a small port 4A-GE which I have been kitting out with my RWD specific partrs today. I will either be putting it in this KE25 or my KE20, still undecided. Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

Bright and early this morning, time to piss off the neighbors (one set of which truly deserves it). I went around and cleaned up where i was going to cut, easier to do it now with a flattish surface.. Some extra tasty swiss cheese. Then I got to cutting using a bit of 50x25 sitting on the gutter as a guide; Then I propped up one side and got the forklift hard up against the bus, and lifted it off.... At this point I cackled quite a lot. I can stand up in it now. The lip left below my cut held quite a bit of that cheesy goodness, so I cut it off where applicable - this got rid of 95% of the grot; Then I took most of the windows out as I reckoned it would be less chance of getting damaged. I had to drill out some screws, the last screw popped through, knocked the window which fell out onto the concrete Rather fortunately nothing broke, altho the frame is a bit bent, but whatevs, stoked. Then I bought it inside the workshop and rust converted everything I could see. I cannot help but wish that I was turning this into a sweet ute.... Also the edge of that bit of roof left had been repaired in the time honored fashion; 2014 was a good year for soggy newspaper and bog filling materials :) I thought I had better leave the rust converter to do it's thing so that's it for the day.

Look sweet on D windows and nobbly tyres too.

Oh dear. Why the fuck do people do such shitty stance shit shit with great cars It looks fucking terrible.

This is a different car to that one! This is the accumulation of all the good ideas/learnings from my racecar Is same/better spec than what my racecar was before it went into the shed for the last 3-4yrs, bar cage and TRD diff. Great to see you out there! That coolant hose always weeped a bit but never had it drop enough to motivate me to fix it when at the track. Should have sorted it sorry. Get used to the rear stepping out thats when you know you're starting to find the limit. I'm always quite rough on the car in the corners on the first lap to get it to step out and heat the rear tyres, then you know where the track grip is at and can smooth the lines out from there to keep the rear in line. Best thing you can do it keep the throttle pinned and it'll pull you straight. Man that car sounds so good high in the revs!

Nice! Agree this is a sweet car and Rhys is a thoroughly nice chap. I couldn't believe how fast he could make this go around manfield!

Success!

So I got given a Svord Peasant Knife It is OK but not purrfect as a folder so I decided to make a fixed blade out of it. Here is my work so far Dismantle knife Choose purple heart for handles Draw some pictures Draw some penises and cut them out Roughly shape handles I still need to give handles the final sanding Epoxy and pin blade and handles together Hit handles with danish oil Make sheath Make a second one for my son

Have managed to source a new fuse holder, from a Celeste, to replace the melted one but don't have it yet. The car is currently with the auto sparky, hopefully I will hear from him tomorrow and the issues will all be simple ones. While the car has been going nowhere i decided to whip the side vents off and give them a bit of a tart up. They were in okay condition but look to have been repainted at some stage with some less than perfect masking and there were a couple of peely bits. after a quick sand on the worst bits: masked up: painted: back on the car I ended up getting impatient waiting for the right conditions and went ahead and painted them when it was a bit too cold, like a dick. So it took ages in front of a heater for the paint to go off and it has ended up a bit stipply (doesn't look quite as bad as the photo above IRL) and shinier than I wanted — it's a satin, should've maybe gone for full matte. Anyway, a bit of a cock up (especially after the ballache of masking them) but not the worst cock up ever. They look better than they did plus nice and clean and crisp. I can easily enough redo them when the weather is warmer with a flatter paint if they bother me.

Technically didn't 'make' it, did paint it and assemble...............does that count hahaha.

On the home straight of sanding now. One side done up to 600 grit, the other up to 120. Next up will be heat treatment. Still yet to build the legs for the mini forge, but the burner is now complete - also visible in the above pic. The non burny end of the burner has the following assembly - pretty much just a valve and a couple of brass bits fitted/brazed together to attach a standard BBQ hose and fit it to the 15mm steel pipe. Have a couple of oriface options with a 0.8mm and 1.0mm option. Can just buy more caps and have different sized holes drilled if necessary At the end of the day its just an oversized Bunsen Burner - hopefully enough to heat the forge up to the 800 degrees I need toe knife to reach before dunking it in oil

So, in a effort to fix all the small odd running issues this motor had, I managed to break the car again. The story goes like this: When the motor was in the E34, the fuel pump was jumped between the ignition 12v pin and the pump power wire to get it to work. I tried a relay (which was unknown condition) to see if it would work but it did not. The car also developed a very bad miss just before I pulled the motor out until the day I drove it to the place I was working at to pull the motor out. What would happen is the car would start ok but missed and backfired under throttle, the more you pressed the worse it was. It was driveable cold but got worse as it warmed up and became pretty much undriveable when warmed up. The day I was driving to pull the motor, it stalled on me a block from the place. I tried to start it but it wouldn't fire and the battery went completely flat. So we towed it. Once there, I jump started it to see if it would start and it started a bit rough, then came to life and ran perfectly. Drove it up and down the road a bit and it ran without a single issue. So I took it inside and pulled the motor. Once the engine was in my E28, when we first started it, it ran rough like it did in the E34 when it was missing. I fiddle around a bit, left it for a day with the battery disconnected and then the next day it started up fine. Ever since then the car was running fine, except for a slight miss at low revs, until I pulled my gearbox off to change the clutch. When I put it back on, it did the same thing. It ran rough and missed, so I let is sit for a couple hours with the battery disconnected. What do you know, started up and ran perfectly fine. Last weekend I decided to swap the loom and DME with one I bought to see if it would solve the fuel relay issue and other issues like the ICV not working at all. The fuel pump relay gets 12v to all pins when key is in except ground which is grounded, yet the relay (tried 2, one was definitely good) does not work. Anyway, so I swapped the loom and DME, turned ignition on. ICV buzzed as it should. Then I tried to start the car. Nothing. It cranked but would not fire. I triple checked everything and even tried my old ECU, still nothing. ICV no longer buzzes but gets 12v at all pins. Grounds test at 12v, however the coil only got 9v. I ran a relay for it to test but that only gave it 10v, even though the power wire was a completely new one. Also tried different coil, still nothing. Took my crank sensor out and tested it on my friend's M30 and it worked perfectly fine on his car. All issues the same as with old loom. So I swapped my old loom back on and still had the same issues and wouldn't start. Since then, I tested the ECUs/DMEs on my friend's car, the crank position sensor pinout voltage which is correct (5v at the correct pin), charged the battery so the coil now has 12v etc. Everything I could possibly think of. Got pinouts of the ECU and checked every wire that could effect starting and everything is working as it should. On Friday it came to me that maybe the lead from the coil was bad, so I tested that. The lead turned out to be fine but the plastic on the post of the distributor cap just broke off. This left me slightly hopeful but not really, and I swapped it with a spare I had. Put the battery on charge and tried it the next morning. Nothing. The last test I have to do is this afternoon I will try to put a plug straight on the coil lead and see if it sparks. Then I will put the new loom back in as a final resort, just in case. If that doesn't produce any results, I really don't know what to do next short of converting to Megasquirt or something. I don't like fixing things that way but I see no other option. For some reason I don't seem to be having much luck with this motor. TL;DR: Tried to fix/improve it, broke it again. Now have no idea what to do.

Not too much of an update but an update none the less. Over the last couple weeks I have had it on stands and pulled shit apart, re assembled, lubricated, adjusted and spanner checked everything I could. Wired in the temp sensor that had been butchered. Yesterday I replaced the front tyres with some Nankangs and got well looked after by the boys at Beaurepaires in Porirua who also did a wheel alignment for me too. Spent a little time this morning giving the arse end and bootlid a massage with my hammer and I also chucked my Mooneyes "foot" gas pedal in. This car is just getting better and better and the amount of people that stop to chat about it is absolutely mind blowing!

A couple pics from the Southwards swapmeet I forgot to post

Survived the first "out of town" drive but not without minor hiccups Drove her to Southwards swapmeet, drove there flawlessly. Great little drive with my wife and 3 daughters. Parked up (next to a 55 Chev Nomad!!! My all time favourite car) and enjoyed the displays and even managed to pick up a workshop manual for cheap. So after doing the rounds and the kids getting bored and over it we piled in and left to come home. All was well until Pukerua Bay, felt an abnormal vibration and a rattling noise. Nursed her home and 100m from home I hear the ting ting ting of a bolt. Managed to vibrate the exhaust flange bolts loose causing the exhaust system to twist and vibrate against the floorpan, the ting noise was one of the nuts. Found a couple of new nuts and spring washers and realigned system. Sweet! My left front wheel bearing (adjusted yesterday) also loosened off on the way home. Readjusted and put the correct sized splitpin in place of the shite that was on it. Fingers crossed that sorts that issue. All in all an uneventful voyage and I definitely learnt a lot more about her characteristics. Heaps of positive feedback from those that stopped to talk. I <3 the Oldschool vibe !

Huge massive thanks to Manu (Steelies) for his shit hot tig welding of my struts. Such a sweet job and done so quickly. Thanks Man!! Unfortunately, i was fizzing too much to take pictures of strut assembly. But anyway, long story short, put struts in car. Tyres on wheels. Car on ground. Grin on face. Still gotta fine tune that ride height this week. Its all pretty much max low without becoming uncaptive. I do have a couple of tricks up my sleve though. So may be able to gain another 30mm. Can just run keeper springs anyway to get chassis on floor spec low. This will be after hawkes boes as a new exhaust will be required to get any serious low. The hilux brakes i had bought were propper rooted. They need to be rebuilt this week. Will get new pads too. Appart from that hickup, it has gone ok (for me anyway). In the words of local wellington GC Roger (All Torque) "Hawkes boes or bust". I am applying this mentality this week. GOTTA GET IT DONE! No matter what! Again, thanks to Goobie (Kicker) for use of vices/hammers/brake bleeds and general yarns. Shit hot.