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Oh. That was like 15 years ago and the doctor had put his finger in my bum before I went to see it at the movies so the main thing I remember about F&F is the weird feeling of having a wet lubed bum that doesn't go away by wiping it with toilet paper and farts that don't make any sound.

Phil is now one of those blokes, Who's quite sick of my mitsi jokes. He saw no potential, in fully sequential, As fuel isnt why his car smokes.

I was told you couldn't get a light bar of the shelf for a Clubman, so a few pieces of polished Stainless Steel and came up with this... [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// After a few trial fits and some minor alterations....fitted yesterday [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/garryhg/media/20160616_164405.jpg.html'>

Not much of an update... but the y is running sweet just clicked over 23 thousand km's in since march last year. Gave her a full service including gbox oil, will be getting a wheel alignment soon so i can get the 15x8's back on! Went for a loop drive from Wairarapa to Kapiti coast then back over the Rimutaka hill (400 odd KM). Went happily with no trouble. Welded an extra muffler on in the morning to keep the girlfriend happy. Have been working on my sisters 120y as well, rust cuts underway. Classic dat with rising sun. lol. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48815-120whys-75-datsun-120y/#entry1646709

Made some coilovers. Ended up getting MR2 inserts I think, they weren't really short enough and 5kg springs. I shortened the struts and TIG welded them up. Applied paint Test fitted and the springs were too hard, didn't go anywhere low enough unless I pulled out the keeper springs and wound the collars right down. De-sprung the rear to see how low it could go. Removed the bump stops as well Did some calculating and figured some 3kg springs would be better and shortened the insert shaft a bit. Bought some cheap evo camber plates and drew up some new top hats to get laser cut. Cut another coil off the rear springs and installed some shorted shocks, so this is how it sits now. Hopefully settles a bit lower. Bought another K50 shifter housing thanks to enzee. Shifts much smoother without the one that's been brazed and welded!

I dont have anything intelligent to add, but this would make a cool T-Shirt or something

Removal of the screwdriver from the pan has fucked the harmonics, causing premature BEB failure.

Stage 1 Stage 2 Service Time Stage 3 Stage 4 Post Race selfie Back on the trailer home bound

Suited and Booted On the Startline Having a bit of sideways fun

Has anyone ever used Gibbs brand before? Apparently it's the shizz for spraying in your seams.. and protecting bare steel. I think Mike's autobody in the north are the only nz distributors.. *edit.. oh and you can paint over it also

I know that exact feel

Went for a drive Previously my VVTI map looked like this: So I tried setting it all to zero between 2000 and 4000rpm except for full load area.... Seemed to sound the same once car had warmed up. So I went the other way, and set it all to 25 degrees including the low down areas where I'd always had zero. It looks as though this may have sorted it. Maybe the time that it clatters, is when its just coming off its base position, or is just above it. So set to stay well above it and so far so good. Will need to go for a longer drive to confirm though. Maybe this type of oil is contributing, recently started using a Penrite 5w30 when I've previously been using magnatec 5w30. I've noticed that oil pressure goes a fair bit lower at idle now, possibly running hotter oil temps or something. Sheesh I think I owe you a few beers by now Downtrail! And a few others here too. Thanks for the point in the right direction

There are some lovely shots of the New Yorker's taillight as the camera pans across to the characters chilling on the beach. It became one of cars that the badasses were implied to own/drive. A big thanks to Ol mayte Shane (nzed) and rustisize for providing vehicles and themselves.

aww yee

I read an article years ago about a racecar, the knocklink was going nuts and they couldnt figure out why at the track so the pulled out of the race(enduro i think) They later pulled the engine down and found the big end bearings were starting to fail. Enough to set off the knock sensor but not enough to affect oil pressure

Good work Guys, hope you all enjoyed it as much as I did

The word association game is always a joy with Pete.

Another quick update. We have been trying to get it going properly but it just hasn't been happening for us. We have broken a few harmonic balancers which we know the cause of (Supercharger belt to tight) and the next step would be to replace the current one of them. If that dosent work or next resort will be just to get it fully rebuilt because of what we think is a bent valve. Time will tell.

Roman, have you tried a custom PID setup? Looking at the default setting in Link's Altezza base map the filtering is set to the lowest level and derivative gain looks quite high (but hard to know without knowledge of how the algorithm was coded). The high derivative gain and a noisy position signal may cause oscillation in the control signal. Also, the large difference between the actual position and the target like at the start of the log might cause integrator windup, which can cause strange things to happen, so best to fix the offset error (hopefully link have a good anti-windup strategy build into their controller).

Panel Plus on Vagues Road in Papanui

it took me forever to find this thread lol //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/24642-the-double-22/

You will probably get rid of it by interpolating the table a bit so its not so sharp when it comes on. say at 40kpa map 2500 rpm have your 0 then at 2750 - 6.5 deg etc do this the whole way around and see if it smoothens things up a bit.

Zoe said that Tyler and Jeff had a good day. She shall be spending the funds from the truck on a new Tattoo.

Jesus fuck that caused some hearty irl lols

I once had a problem with the vvti solonoid setting off a knock sensor. Same thing chased it around untill i turned the vvti off and it went away. Have you had a listen with your ear phones to confirm its actually knock or some other noise? whats your afr like at that point? try adding a bit of fuel some motors. Even the noise from injector coils at a certin pw can cause false knock. Id throw some extra fuel at it first and see what happens. Im not sure about these motors but cruising at 2500 ish i'd expect to see more that 20deg timing in it. Could just be too retarded causing a slight miss.

Well, it wouldnt exactly be a precedent for a 3SGE to have big end bearing issues haha!

No one likes the tuna round here

good meet was good!

I thought this was cute. A Motronic for each bank. Such technology!

Picked up the new springs from archers yesterday; fingers crossed they're as low as I asked ... Always nervous when ordering one off made springs! and pretty much all the ball joints / tie rod ends are stuffed eg; so ordered these in and picked them up today with the lower arm ball joints from auto lign; And gave the front / rear bump stops a little skim to hopefully get a bit more clearance Still have to shorten the shocks (hopefully get that done this weekend) and waiting on the front bush kit coming in from australia, and then it's re-assemble time. http://oldschool.co....n/#entry1603115

Only problem with that road is I don't want you weirdos finding out where I live.

the tar stuff never sets. its suppose to be like that to "self repair" when it gets pummelled with stones etc. to stop it being nasty and all the dirt sticking to it I just went over the underseal in my arches with a can of black spray paint.

been busy doing a full rebuild on my 288xp Husqvarna high top filter chainsaw, ported the thing pretty warm deleted the base gasket, new piston ring bearings etc, goes pretty good now, full chisel chain, ported muffler. if your into your saws she's a mean machine.

pretty sure steelies on here is all about TAS motors

photo evidence

pretty crappy project but stripped it down gave it a tickle and she's running mint. better than watching the dribble on the telly. just need to do something with it now..

How many Morris minors would you like

Tarmac Rally Prep Part 2 Wheel alignment and suspension setups ready for Taupo

My thoughts on an MA61 roof wing are that they are disgusting haha. Since you bring it up though. Based on a fairly shitty model that I've drawn. One of the main airflow streams starts on the outer 1/3rd of the front bonnet, avoids the windscreen altogether and tucks under the side mirrors and then curves back up and over the side of the rear hatch. It seems like the air wants to go around the sides rather than over the roof, where it can. My initial thoughts are still that a roof wing or rear wing will acheive pretty much nothing. Looking at the car in plan view, an absolute shitload of air gets pumped through the wheels to escape the engine bay and trans tunnel etc which is good I guess. But the car has a very wide wake, starting right at the front of the car. With a model life this setup it's really easy to add a roof wing, or a front splitter, or a sharks nose or a whale tail, various other fish bits and see what happens. You can set a goal for the simulation to measure total lift and drag. What's interesting though is that it seems very hard to "win". As in, you do something to decrease drag but then you increase lift. Or vice versa. As an example, a shark nose helps the flow stay attached to the bonnet and gives a much lower stall point at the front of the car. But then all of this air hits the windscreen instead of just going straight over the top. So not sure if that's actually an improvement. Maybe more on this later if I ever come to any meaningful conclusions. I'm sick at home today which is causing some serious brain fade so no further comment until my brain is braining again. As this took way too long to write haha.

The idea of the tacho becoming an IRL real time fuel economy graph lols me.

Petes career advice: Sportscars, not Auckland houses.

want me to print out the whole workshop manual peet? lol chuck it up on hoist at dave sentras, consume beers, 13b conversion

"How to fuck your 348" Author: SpeenotheGreek

Put some 175/60/13 tires on. They make such a huge difference. Just needs lowering another couple of inches.

Made the exhaust, was too loud as it only have one Coby resonator and just a straight pipe out the back. So decided to make a muffler for it, since I couldn't find anything the style I liked. So here's my guide to making a muffler haha Press some end caps. Drill a lot of holes in some tube and then louvre them. Weld on baffle for the expansion chamber. Wrap tube in stainless steel wool and then stuff with fibreglass. Weld on end caps Polish. Then fit. Is all welded now and have painted the tube black, just waiting for some flanges to go just in front of the diff, otherwise I'll have some difficulty trying to get it over the diff to fit.

there is some seriously cool work in this car. http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/67239-The-unorthodox-budget-Firebird-(-74)

A lot has happened recently. We have put the motor back in after taking it out and repairing the head gasket. After doing so we put it back in and tried to start it, which was pretty sucsesful. Untill we started to drive it. One of the lifters was not oiling up and after a lot of investigation we found out that multiple wernt. And also after driving it up and down the road it was constantly backfiring which we nailed down a air leak which was confirmed after taking the gaskets between the supercharger and the intake manifold off. So now we have replaced the lifters and push roads and also the rockers. The pully is away getting re machined. And we are waiting on cork for a proper gasket. Hopefully soon we will have it ready but at this point it is staying in the garage.