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pro tip trd brake fluid is the same as motul rbf600 but cheaper

drilled or slotted rotors can help. the short version of why? when pads get hot, some of the stuff that bonds the pad together turns to gas. this microscopic layer of gas prevents the pad from 'gripping' the disc. the slots in a slotted disc let the gas out, reducing fade.

Early last year I was on the hunt for a car I could take mates on MTB/tramping missions, without caring that I night come back to it with smashed windows etc. be4ver was selling this in Ashburton - after a few hands through the OSGC freight service, (cheers Karl and Corbie) it made its way to Hanmer where I got to know it better by spending 2 nights sleeping in it. After watching VGs achievements in the Carib I had decided that 4WD was the logical next step to waghappiness. I came across the weird vehicle that is the Honda Beagle - as far as I can tell this was Honda's last attempt to get rid of shells they had stockpiled, as it was sold alongside not only the EG, but also the EK Civics. A few months ago one came up for sale in Nelson, and I convincingly sold the idea to my wahine. I turned the Shuttle and new Beagle into this and this. The Shuttle sold within a day, and I enjoyed mucking around in the Beagle - it's far more capable in mud than it has any right to be. The only issue was a stuck ABS solenoid making a horrific noise - skillfully internet diagnosed by KK. Last weekend I took it on its first decent open road mission to the local OS monthly meet with all the whanau on board. Unfortunately after ~ 100km it lost oil pressure at idle and started making an awful knocking noise. I towed it home on Monday night (stupid me not opting for AA plus BEFORE I needed it). My brother volunteered his workshop as neither of us has mucked around with east/west engine layouts - having put feelers out for a new engine in a few places it looks like I may have sourced one of these. It's a ZC DOHC but with a few other goodies - we'll see how good once it shows up! Aiming for this to be back on the road ASAP, but with an absolute deadline of Hanmer.

At a guess, I'd put half a bag in the cheese cloth, then hang that over a bucket.. it'll absorb moisture that will then drip into the bucket.. you can reuse it by cooking it in the oven at a low temp..

For what it's worth in 20 years of building/racing competition cars I've only once ever encounter gas build up issues, the idea that this could be an issue on the street (presuming you’re running good quality pads) isn’t even worth consideration. Our current race car has been reaching temperatures where we are cooking the ceramic buffer between the piston and the brake pad to the point where they are crumbling, and I'm still running non slotted or drilled rotors (still with no hint of gas build up). My feeling is that there is a lot of aftermarket misinformation (i.e.B/S) out there being pushed by 3rd party suppliers. Originally Rotors were only drilled to reduce un-sprung weight, great idea if you’re running a state of the art single seater but probably irrelevant for most other applications. Yes slotting can help control gas build up but unless you’re experiencing it all you’re doing is adding potential stress risers and reducing pad/rotor area per revolution. It would be great there was a magic bullet for rotor selection but there isn’t. The only advice I can give is that you will never regret buying quality components from reputable well established suppliers, (AP, Brembo, etc.).

Sounds like your riding like a Girl haha My bike is a practically stock 50 with a long swingarm that does nothing for handling along with fucked rear shocks and no fork oil in my forks and I pass all the bigger bikes like Josh easily. About to put a 100cc in my 50 frame. Will probably upgrade the forks and rear shocks so I can decimate everyone. And yeah I need to start planning the next Wellington takeover so you can come down and experience the QCR pack riding first hand

This is the thread of my 105e Ford Anglia, last year we got it to the point to be drive-able up to Kaikoura from Christchurch. Its nearly been a year now and i now have my learners license. So i decided to do it up properly as my first car. My discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53164-105e-ford-anglia-shannon-discussion/ My Brothers Anglia Fourm: http://oldschool.co....105e/?hl=jorden Here is my dads Ford Falcon (XP) http://oldschool.co....l-supercharged/ Here is the link to the proper journey to Kaikoura in two weeks. http://oldschool.co....glia/?hl=anglia Below is how we bought it for $1000 with nearly everything with it. It has around 86-7ish thousand miles on the clock. Before we drove it to Kaiakoura. Once we had it ready we got it registered and we put a warrant on the day we left. After we got home my dad used it for a run about car for a while and then it got parked up for a few months. Now im happy to say that in those few months i drove the car. This was the first car i had ever driven by myself (On the property of course). Now after another few months of sitting there it was my turn to do it up properly so i started the strip down. Everything came off the exterior except the handles and the window washer/wiper motors and also the chrome. And this is how it stood. We took the motor out this weekend. We put the motor in my brothers so it could get re-vinned. This is the only real rust on the car, theres also some on the boot: Im looking for Mk2 Cortina struts (Disc Brake Setup) message me please if you know of any The whole car is now bare metal excluding the roof and the engine bay so it will soon be ready for undercoat. Engine bay almost done My brothers wheels on my car Some pretty exciting news! while cleaning out the garage we found some undercoat. Its in a massive barrel. We tested it to make sure it was fine and it is. So im going hard out on my car at the moment finishing out all of the nitty stuff that i dont want to do A bit of surface rust, i guess this just shows that its been a while... Door jams The under small bit under the front and back guards/wheel wells. And finally the bit above the windows, thats really hard to get into with the wire wheel. So exciting time ahead!

The other thing to check is the badge. If it's a Rover badge, there's 96% of your problems.

just try fitting another commodore in the container, they seem to collect all the water.

I had a jam with my bernzo torch trying to heat the collar off my axle but no joy. I think I'll just take the axles and bearings somewhere and get it done... Bummer I gave away my mag base and dial indicator a while back so can't measure the backlash. It seems legit but I think I'll try and borrow and measure for peace of mind. Need some photos: Music cranking while working on the diff Oooo what have we here? That's right, hello kitty USB adaptor

Well, you guys nailed it.

I left it leaned against the fence last night at my mates place, he wanted to bring it inside the gate and I said nah it will be too funny when someone tries to nick it haha

gone. 2016-06-13_03-42-56 by sheepers, on Flickr

Restored the Right Front Wheel today. Spent about 2hrs on it and I think it came up really nice. I decided to paint the inner sections of this one. I used engine enamel silver (hard wearing) and clearcoated it. The face of the rim was sanded with multiple different grits of wet & dry sandpaper, and buffed up with some polish and "silvo". I also gave the wheel well a scrub and a quick coat of matte black to bring it back to life and prevent rust. Hope to get started on the rear wheels tomorrow. Once the wheels and wells are done I'll move onto the engine bay. -Jack

Before 15's Now 16's

Got up nice and early this morning with tonnes of enthusiasm and plans to take care of a whole bunch of things for Wagnats, Nats and just general sorting of my lockup. Did a bit of a service on the old girl, adjusted up the handbrake and clutch plus fixed a squeak in the rear brakes. I discovered when swapping the spark plugs that I have had the wrong ones in there since I got it going. The electrode must have been recessed so far inside the head. (see photo below) Seems to run a bit nicer and the exhaust smells a lot more potent so I am assuming it is burning the fuel much better now. Won't know till I drive it a fair whack to see if it has made a substantial difference in performance or driveability. Left - 304 injected motor plug (I pulled it out just to check my finding) Middle - new correct 308 plug Right - plug I've had installed since the I got the motor going (oops) I also had the original 16" steels painted by Matt (Sorensin) and chucked those on with the pursuit hubcaps. I'm not 100% on them yet. But give me a week and I'll know whether I'm keeping them or resorting to the 15's again. 16's vs 15's Fitted

Been on here for years so thought id better make my own thread. Its a Datsun 1200 coupe. Its been through many changes but finally got it pretty much how i want,minus a few small exceptions. Its running a rebuilt A15+T. The turbo is a small garrrett blowing through twin dellorto sidedrafts. Currently running at 9PSI via a Tial external wastegate. Wheels are 13x7 and 13x7.5 SSR Starsharks wrapped in 175/50r13 Yokohamas. The only other plans at this stage are some adjustable coilovers for the front, S13 brake conversion and getthing the front rims widened to 13x8 and moving them to the rear, then putting the rear rims on the front.

for 27 coils it should be 8v =5.3 9v=4.2 10v =3.4 11v =2.9 12v=2.5 13v =2.2 14v =2.0 15v =1.8

True! At that stage I'd only owned a 1980 Accord and a 1983 Prelude so figured my judgement may have been a little off. The engine I've lined up apparently has been rebuilt with a 10.5:1 compression ratio, headers and a chipped ECU.

Yup - it's an EF5. The only car I've driven with a ZC DOHC was a 1980s Civic Si - as a 15 yo I thought it was amaaaaaaazing.

I got a decent deal on the znoelli rotors otherwise would have hit the Rda stuff. Hopefully will get parts arriving Thursday afternoon so i can get onto fitting new bits over weekend.

Edit Just bought slotted znoelli's and police spec pads. And a chip an exhaust and a 10 psi pulley kit..... go and stop this is a first for me.

Ok so she's in the 'shop' https://igcdn-photos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t51.2885-15/e35/13398932_289892038017727_737107314_n.jpg https://www.instagram.com/p/BGivRGlyoxr/?taken-by=akiwijoker Nick says I need a new / replacement head & Valves due to cracks & stuff sooo what's my best option? I do have the twin Blue one (on the back or the tow truck scroll up) thats also a 76 Alpine TC (only difference is manual) a 72 1500 (brown one in pic) which i drove to where it is now (nothing in the one to the left of it) https://igcdn-photos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e35/13260983_131907050547746_1252244619_n.jpg[/mg] https://www.instagram.com/p/BFu62KLSo2v/?taken-by=akiwijoker with the thought that a 1500 head on a 1600 block ups compression / power? but is that what I want / need with an automatic car? then there's the Chrysler Wagon newest & possibly the best bet in my mind? https://igcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e35/12677303_199062507114181_1665698119_n.jpg https://www.instagram.com/p/BBMOupNSox4/?taken-by=akiwijoker was also a runner till parked up on pete's farm & the springs raided for the Rally car / not entirely sure if its a 1600 (no reason to think otherwise) has LPG / CNG fitted, will this have affected it in any way? gave Kiera my original 1600 head off this car Project thread here : http://www.avenger.co.nz/forum/index.php?topic=40.0 https://igcdn-photos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e35/12716489_511512515702223_740307191_n.jpg https://www.instagram.com/p/BB8uUxbSo8X/?taken-by=akiwijoker in return I have her 1300 head (or is her's 1600? cant recall) with a burnt out exhaust valve edit carjam says its CC rating = 1,600cc (still a 1975 / 41 year old head) that's the immediate simplest option with a new set of valves etc aware ideally I would like to find a "S" stamped big valve head but happy to use what I have for now without spending squillions thoughts & input please into the discussion thread Jokers Avenging Hill men Discussion << Link / discuss there

Nah, they're all like that Dave.

I am told one of the functions of slots/holes is the allow air/gas to escape from between the surfaces to maximise pad contact/coefficient of friction. When hot pad is being mashed they release gases which hold the pad off the surface. I could be wrong but it makes sense in my head. Fuck fully skimmed over Cletus saying this already.

In the Carina running a 14.7 target AFR, with a cold start and normal sort of driving in stop start traffic. Got 8.0l per 100km on the way to work this morning. Should be a comparatively clear run on the way home, will be interesting to see how it compares. My last tank averaged 11.something L/100 based on fuel up and odo readings. Not sure how accurate this is, because I've calibrated my speedo but not sure if that means my odometer is accurate. Maybe need to confirm that with GPS.

I wired in a relay for the wideband now, that the ECU can trigger. So I've set the criteria for turning it on as: If engine runtime is greater than 3 seconds, switch it on. (Might make this 5 or 10 seconds perhaps) or If Engine temp is above 70 degrees and rpm is above 400, switch it on straight away. Fingers crossed it lasts this time!

Just check that the rocker covers have straight mounting surfaces before you refit them. Might need to give them a little twist into shape. Holden pressed steel rocker covers like to warp. Also they have usually been dropped or stacked in the past which bends them. Easy fix. Then slam some new gaskets in there mayyyyyte.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51980-jackeo21s-1983-mitsubishi-mirage-panther-ii/ Here's the project.

Ive got some big deep cycle batterys you can borrow and a charger if you want to dump some juice at it. wet foam will work good gas can pass thru it hydrogen dissapates very well you will get roughly 1 litre per minute of gas at 10 amps thats not much.

Haha all the moneys !!

Sheeit I've found some bulllllllshit under my car. I got a shudder recently that wasn't gear/rev dependent after hearing 2x suspicious clunks under the ol' beast (oh shit feels like driveshaft!) I limped home and jacked it up... Sure enough I found 3x(!) bolts total missing from the front and mid flanges on my driveshaft The two bolts left in the middle flange were very waisted from banging back and forth. I didn't really notice as my diff seems to be clunking all the time locking up or just from my twin plate driving. I replaced the bolts and used nordlock washers on there - those bastards ain't falling out this time!! While under there I also discovered my diff leaking oil. Goddammit!! I whipped out the axles then went to remove the pumpkin and found 90% of the nuts/bolts to be finger tight! WTF is going on with dodgy shit plaguing me, I can't believe it hasn't caused a prob in the ~5000km I've driven it since buying. Axles and diff look pretty damn good I'm happy to see: Thought I'd do wheel bearings while I'm at it. Not sure about the pinion etc - any advice out there for measuring backlash(?) or whatever? I reckon getting the collar and bearing off will be easy but how about the new collar - is this usually heated to get it on??

Man I used to own one of these, same colour and 4 door, license plate was KT. Is it Auto or twin stick manual? Have some spares lying around and maybe even a carb kit. Pm me if you need anything and ill have a look.

An udder week Firstly super thanks to beaver, who was bored so gave me a hand with a few things today. Anyway been a bunch more cleaning and painting and messing around. not much more painting to do, just wrinkle finish the top of the intake, but, really need to get my inner guards painted. keep tossing up between spraying them with some cans and hope they turn up ok, or paying some painter for a perky to use some of the black chassis paint we have kicking around work either way I'm getting to the point where something needs to happen sooner than later, but yeah, also got the ECU mounted, with a lovely bracket beaver fabbed up, and wired in the vac solenoid for the intake flappers. Anyway, fun. Not sure how this week is going to go. have dinner out two nights this week which cancels out how two nights of progress but its worth it.

Hey all, Finally got around to making a thread for the beast that we picked up from ZebraDude not too long ago. Title says it all, its an 83 Mirage panther II. This is a NZ new Todd motors car. At the moment we're just getting it up to rego standards. Got a Carjam report so hope to use it as evidence and keep the black plates. After the reg is sorted it's probably gonna get repainted silver. Was going to give it a set of hotwires later on too. -jackeo21 (it's hard to get pics where it is)

So the parts which i purchased off Ebay arrived this week. Looks to be quite a few useful parts like crank seals, some of the pull start, an exhaust manifold, new ignition system and flywheel, air filter, choke cable. I went up to scootling and took a few snaps of the sachs bike with the rotary conversion using the same engine Peeking inside this cover it had a belt drive from the engine to a pulley with a cog next to it driving the chain to the back wheel. Interestingly it runs the original carb and even more interestingly there is a company sticker with a phone number who I'm guessing crafted this weapon! Safe to say enthusiasm is running very high!! Returned home to have a look at the carb to find that the actual throttle butterfly is jammed close and what i thought was the control for it was actually the governor. A bit of persuasion back and forth and it moves freely so i bolt it back on with the throttle quarter open and have another crack at firing it up. Earmuffs for my earmuffs is an understatement, half an hour later and my ears are still ringing and the neighbors dogs are still barking...No video because i was busy shitting my pants trying to find a way to shut it down. I then removed the original kickstart from the chassis and sat the engine in to see how much room i have to work with

Well the big job of fixing the rust has begun. Pulled the front sheet metal off. Deja vu from a few years back. I can't figure out for the life of me why my feet got wet every time it rained... Next job is to pull the dash out and then when I have the other half of my lockup back I'll pull the motor and box then completely gut the engine bay. Was a pretty good day today.

Installed a classic radio due to popular demand. The newer pioneer will be installed in the lower tray area. Might be able to see it in the picture. Putting a classic radio in required most of the dash to be taken apart, resulting in a bigger job than I wanted it to be!

Depends on what you want. If it's just FM radio you're after then an old FM two knob radio will be fine. You can also modify older radios to allow auxiliary inputs etc.

An old radio will have it's own faceplate which will cover the original white lettering. You poke the spindles through the existing holes, place the faceplate over the top and then screw the retainer nuts and knobs on. A modern radio looks worse, plus you can hide it elsewhere. Once cut you cannot undo the damage done to the dash. Seems a shame to butcher it to fit a new radio in.

I think ill just keep it as close to original as possible. I think it would bother me having a scoop on there, knowing me I'd install it on a slight angle The only other mirage panther I have ever seen in the same model is the black one in the advert. I wonder how many panthers were ever produced...

With Cordias, only the early model 'AA' GSR with the rubbish carby turbo setup had the scoop. It wasn't on the fuel-injected AB and AC generations. Originality for the sake of it isn't my thing. I wouldn't lose sleep about changing stuff in case I was frowned at by those people.

Didn't Todds fit the same (or very similar) scoop to the turbo Tredia and Cordia? Must be very few of the Mirage Panthers left in original unmolested condition, would be cool to see it left standard.

Silver would be a lot easier - I think black shows imperfections more and you'd have to live with a mismatching engine bay etc. They make generic hood scoops of similar shape to the Colt Turbo ones. If you could make up some louvres somehow to sit in front of the recessed mesh, nobody would know the difference. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/decals-stickers/other/auction-1034360880.htm or cheaper from multiple sellers on Australian Ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silver-Car-decorative-Air-Flow-Intake-Scoop-Turbo-Bonnet-Vent-Cover-hood-/281875820512?hash=item41a11bafe0:g:X9cAAOSw8-tWYk6i

Yep, they're staying.

sorry about the order of photos

its pretty cool but you need to understand whats going on and the possible risks etc. in that case he is starting with two flat sheets so its not too bad but any air in the vessel being formed is potentially dangerous

Nick swearing haha. Did he tell you about his wagon ?