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Hey little rota is your daddy home? Did he call AA plus is he on the phone? Mm-Hm, you got a bad design Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Tell me now baby is he good to you? And can he nang on your limiter like I do? - Oh no, I can rev you higher Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Sometimes, it's like someone got a drill, baby, edgy and dull And cut a bridge port through the middle of my skull I blew up the bellhousing when I revd until its dead Had a flywheel running through the middle of my head Only you, Rotary desire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire

+1 Dayfe the master One last shitting up the thread A long, long time ago I can still remember how that rota used to make me smile And I knew if I had my chance That I could make those apex seals dance And maybe they'd be happy for a while But February made me shiver With every nanging I'd deliver Bad news on the temp gauge It couldn't take any more jandal I can't remember if I cried When I heard them pingin gillies go quiet But something touched me deep inside The day the rota died

They see me rollin Over heatin Patrolling they tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty My pulse is so loud I'm tangin They hopin that they gon catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty Tryin to catch me ridin sweaty

You got a fast car It'll get a ticket to anywhere Maybe it needs water seals Maybe together we hook Os somewhere Any temp is better Starting from zero got nothing to lose Maybe we'll overheat something Me myself I got nothing to prove ~Tracy Brapman

3 days till gumboot rally Marc from Marcs Automotive Electrical came back around last night and we are FINISHED. starts stops charges all the dash lights work. All thats left to do is a wheel alignment fit the dash cluster and change the thermostat. the classic thing is the fans are louder than the motor its classic. and it has a nice quiet exhaust as well so on the long trips it wont be annoying. Im wrapped all the work is about to pay off

Shock to the thermostat, but your to late, You give over heating, A bad name.

Fuck I have owned this car for a long time, and most of that off the road. Ah, project life' Anyway, Wash this face.

Just had a chat with the auto sparky. They found a vacuum leak between the vac box and the vac advance unit - fixed that, and it seems to have fixed the fault. They've got a new distributor cap and rotor on the way - they told me the dizzy itself looked fairly serviceable on the whole, with only the rotor and cap obviously needing replacement - the rest looks fine for now which is good news. I'll have new leads thrown on, and hopefully be able to pick it up tomorrow night all going well! The guy was enthusiastic about the condition of the car too, saying it's the tidiest he's seen in a long time. All good news for me, looking forward to having it back again!

A cheap tridon part didn't play the game it gave over-heating A bad name.

point heat gun down metal tube, stretch wet sock over other end for insta-dry which of course means i had treasure-map edged leg warmers instead of socks for the rest of that day.

went drifting at a prison, snapped an axle 2 laps in. Good fun... Brought a big block 4ag for a good price. Brought some wheels on the to do list for the next drift day is - shorten diff so i can fit proper sized wheels -lower rear to nice height -make traction brackets for lower arms -new exhaust and headers -buy more wheels -stock up on 175/50/13 to run all round -fix the rear guards -new rebuild head on red top, new head gasket, water pump, cambelt etc. -new rear suspension -fix everything that is wrong

Not all the bikes were Harleys

The generator weighs 32kgs and it hurts a great deal. Last weekend I strapped it to my backpack in the dark (on the stairs), slipped the backpack shoulder straps on, and then spent 15 mins trying to stand up. It sucked. In the end I crawled to a tree and used that to get myself vertical. / I'll do it again when I get some lights. //Once the basement is finished I'll be able to leave some tools there

take fuel hose off and unplug starter wire and hold key in crank position - done this on a few cars. Fuel pump usually 'primes' when you have key in start position so can use that to drain it

So still in the process of gathering the many parts required to make this happen. Spending a little on cosmetics to keep me going. Reverse eye leaf springs for the back, adj Capri coilovers on the front which I'll have back (from engineers) by the end of the week. Once it's low I'll be cheerin. Also some personalised plates. Can anyone make the connection?

Also, this happened.

Let's get Seedy's special request out of the way first. What a beaut!

Just go take one for a test drive off the lot

Oh and pics of you mowing a giant dick onto Hagley park plz

^ Well that never happened...... After the drag day I drove the car to work, which is roughly a 50km journey. 6km into that journey my clutch pedal went straight to the floor and never came back which meant I had to turn the car off when I came to a complete stop and start off in 1st gear and shift without a clutch. This was extremely difficult with the usual shit traffic. Finally made it to work and put the car up on axle stands. Found the issue was a broken clutch cable mount. It stayed in this state for 3 months....... I decided to do something about it and get it running again. If you watch the video in my last post you can hear my gearbox protesting between gear changes. It was so hard to get into gear. With this in mind I decided to replace the clutch setup. The clutch setup was the same equipment that was on the original SOHC 4G63 when I got the car. Had the flywheel machined New clutch kit Whilst the gearbox was out I decided to wire brush and paint it. Cos you know, painting something you never see is a good idea. I also put a new rear seal in the box as it leaked quite bad. Slapped it all together and the clutch still wasnt the best. Wasnt till I compared clutch cables with a few I had and noticed that there was a rubber spacer/grommet that had perished causing the pedal to run out of adjustment. Replaced the grommet with a good one and shes a runner! Out of hibernation Theres still a few things to fix up. Tacho and check engine light dont work, no heater fan etc. Small stuff. Will take it for a WOF and see if it passes with out a cert, but I think cert time is near.

Here's some details on my MK2 Escort Denim pack project. I bought it pretty rough and had some minor rust cut out and repaired. I was undecided about going turbo with it but I'm going to bite the bullet. The car will remain the same on the outside but by the time I'm finished, will hopefully be packing close to 300atw on pump fuel & octane booster. The main parts aquired so far: Pinto engine Custom stainless turbo manifold Garret ball bearing GT2560R Sierra EFI inlet manifold YB Cosworth Pistons & rods Reinz standard YB head gasket YB distributor & phase sensor Holden LS1 coil packs with relocation bracket R31 Skyline diff, handbrake assembly, tailshaft end W58 Supra box FG XR6 turbo intercooler Discussion thread here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51642-rhubarb77s-1980-escort-denim-pack/

WRT a secluded bush hut... don't forget that I am old. I've wanted one since I was a kid... but only now do I have the tools, money, and (arguably) skills to make it a reality. My biggest frustration is my lack of time. I wish I had more, but I don't. It was never a dream to have such a hut, but still I'm fizzing at the bunghole about it. ☺

So I got the brake line adapters to go from the VT master cylinder to VL lines from Stirling brake and clutch up here in dorkland, Fitted: No gravity fed leaks as yet!! I then decided to do the rest of the V8 brake upgrade Old 270mm setup New: Just needs to be bled up now. Apparently the 290mm V8 calliper and rotors with the VS booster and VT master, is a great upgrade over the shitty non turbo 6 cyl 270mm setup which is good because it was scarily bad haha Hopefully will find the motivation tomorrow night to re kit the p/s pump and mount that and the lines.

It's a better idea than doing everything by hand! The main use has been for the rockbreaker, but soon I'll need my dropsaw up there too. Carrying the rain water tanks is going to be a bit of humour (when I get that far) Our pioneering forefathers were tough bastards. I'm a sook

You sure the original wiper motor is totally fried? Its pretty unusual for electric motors to completely die but i guess your car is pretty old. Ive had good success pulling motors apart and cleaning them, normally the armature gets clogged up in the gaps with carbon where the brushes make contact. Clean the copper up with really fine wet dry 1200 grit and get all the gunk out of the gaps with brake clean. Might be worth a shot before trying to make a S13 one fit (and that looks way off to be honest)

Got the bump-stick in today... No dramas except when I went to torque up the thrust plate and a bolt snapped (at 9 ft-lbs)...? Hardly even felt any resistance so must have been something wrong with it. I just twisted the remnants out with long nose pliers... Was worried as it was supposedly grade 8 (according to online experts) and thought I'd have to order one or machine something, but shot into Southern Bolts and Fasteners and they gave me a free grade 5 off the shelf, and since the last one seemed to be made out of plastic I'm happy it'll be fine - rapt with that service, cheers SBF... And fitted the new double roller timing chain. It's a Rollmaster gold series, billet steel set with nitrided sprockets, flash eh... Bit of trouble determining if I needed the shim or not, as the instructions were pretty vague. Looked online and it is supposedly to give chain clearance from the block. You 'stick' it to the sprocket with oil while sliding the chain on so it locates in place - can just see it inside the sprocket here and I checked it was even all way round... And I was going to carry on fitting stuff till I looked at the water pump plate gasket, will either grab another or make one to suit so will be a couple of days before things happen... Also bit of debate on whether to flatten out the oil slinger at the crank sprocket or toss it. Apparently you can do either with a double-roller, but might be easier to go without, I'll do a bit of research...

Heat gun is ace for one by one nachos with cheese.

Think I'm about yo answer my own question but can someone confirm. Epoxy then prime then bog? Epoxy seems too smooth to bog directly onto. Pics 4 fred. Epoxy! Gaz

Yeah you can run SW ones, their 18-19mm from memory?? The manual SC AW ones are 12 or 13 mm from memory and the auto SC AW ones are 14mm I would think 30mm would be way over kill. So people think sw20 ones in the rear are over kill.

Shot of the interior. New carpet to go in soon. Seats being upholstered currently.

Shot if the interior. New carpet to go in soon. Seats being upholstered currently.

Not much of an update, Just a couple of photos of the car as she currently sits. Almost completely stripped out. Been busy stripping and cleaning parts. Will hopefully get a few updates going soon as reassembly finally begins.

Great for reheating pizza too

correct, but if you have no way of measuring how much tax you should be paying, you are going to get shafted

Hey guys, There's a playday event happening on the Monday of ANZAC weekend. Would be great to see some OS people along! Trying to find a way to make it there on semis...

After meeting a local small engine fiend earlier in the year, I started dreaming again of owning a two-stroke lawnmower. I was lucky enough with the help of Richie (Snoozin), Chris_R and Neal (threeonthetree) to get this down from the North Shore to OSNATS 16: I fell hard for her looks. On the trademe auction, it was stated as having possible carb issues, and on the last night of nats Chris and Neal were ever so eager to fire her up. She runs, but only momentarily. So during Easter weekend, I pulled the carb off for a looksie and clean. No issues found with the carb. However, the two stage throttle control isnt functioning from its linkages, so next step is to remove the flywheel and explore why.

I imagine it's to do with thermal shock of the temperature variable component.

They explode and you die of death

Rapid heating might cause damage i expect.

?

Just been told about this All Holden Day which is obviously relevant to my interests. If there are a few others keen then I'll take along the OS Banner to flap around in the breeze and we can rep the club. http://www.taranakiholdenclub.kiwi.nz/calendar.html Post keenness levels below.

Booked in for an ANZAC day trackday at Hampton. Cant wait! Between now and then, just giving the car a once over and making sure the brake pads/discs etc are still looking alright. Pads are maybe 2/3rds worn now, but have not had a single iota of brake fade using them. Ferodo DS2200 gets my tick of approval. While I've had everything apart, thought I'd see if these other tire sizes look feasible... Keep in mind that these pictures are shown with the tire resting against the strut, so would have to sit 10+mm further out. starting with 235/50/15 Definitely too wide! then next a 225/50/15 This might be doable! It would be awesome to run a 225 all round. Might give me a few more laps before tires start overheating. Maybe a few less laps until brakes start getting super hot though... Might need some venting if driving with semislicks. As the discs look like they've seen some epic temperatures which cant be great for bearings etc. Might repack the bearings with grease while it's all apart. Trackdays wouldnt be fun, without procrastinating about putting your car back together until the night before. EDIT: Late request by Snoozin for more graphs per post:

Back at the rear axle, I realised I needed a rear lower tie-bracket to hold the two wishbone pivots together, so after a bit of head-scratching, cutting, drilling and grinding I ended up with these parts: Which after welding together looked like this: It's now a 4-function bracket: 1) It ties the wishbone pivots together and wraps underneath to pick up the bolt-holes on the underside of the pivot brackets. 2) The large aluminium boss in the middle is the parachute pick-up. 3) The two circular brackets on either end are for tie-downs to be hooked to (it will undoubtedly spend some of its time on a trailer). 4) it will provide a strong jacking point. Baby's going to have a fat ass! New rear arches, about 3" wider than stock. Arrived at the weekend. Whilst I was trying on the new panels I thought I'd snap a few pics: In the last one you can see a couple of gauges hanging underneath, these are Lucas gauges, probably fitted to the car in the 70's judging by the 'Lucas' logo. Hey I'll need gauges! Pulled them off and tested them (they are both capillary gauges) and they work fine, so here's the 'before restoration' photo:

A few randoms Liked this one a lot. Orange wagon FS for 35k Assume this one had a colourblind owner. Interior was bright yellow and mint green. Hints for Leebo? Transit This Standard had an RBsomething jammed in.

I very much enjoyed fiddling around with this lawnmower on the back of the ute, all while dressed in op-shop attire at Nats.

Took this bit out.. Basically stripped the engine bay.. been having some colour thoughts and I'm kind of keen to stay with BRG as opposed to going back factory bronze.. offsets the s/s bits nice...

I'm a fuse Greg, could you blow me?

5 days till gumboot HyperPak as mentioned before I purchased a Hyperpak ignition module for the timing. reasoning was price for $330 I would retain electronic ignition. (thoughts were by the time I got a 4k one and converted it to electronic it would be a similar figure and the 4age dizzy looks nicer. So when you get the hyperpak its a simple hook up. 6 wire hook up. 3 to the dizzy and the colors match (easy) 1 to negative of the coil\ 1 to ignition and positive of the coil. 1 to earth we hooked it all up and went to start the car and no spark. The Hyperpak got thermo nuclear hot and I was quite frankly shitting my self with the dead line looming. back to the instructions I checked one bit that I hadn't given as much notice of than I should have "coil should be 3 ohms static resistance is less than 2.7 ohms will cause failure" a quick check revealed my coil was in fact 1.2 ohm not enough resistance and I cooked it. I sent it back to Wayne at Hyperpac and now I must plug the guy I have read people saying that e is bad at communicating and hard to deal with I had the complete opposite with him. He emailed me and then followed up with a phone call to see I had his email he worked over easter to repair the Hyper pack that I had blown up and returned it to me quick smart. I really can not be more impressed with his service and his communication is fantastic. So got it put it back in the car (with the correct coil) and boom. Possible the smoothest idle I have seen in a carb car ever you almost want to change something to make it sound tougher. Starts first touch of the key idles without chokes on when cold and I have only reved it to 5500 but it jumps up there like its been munching on blue pills. will road test tonight and report the result. also got the dash back in and the front seats (factory ones) bolted up. All left to do is. top up radiator with coolant wheel allignment a couple wires mount chilli bin because a update isn't right with out a photo I polished it while I was waiting for the Hyperpak to return. looks great

chaaahooooo