Ash Kelly barr

Cheers heaps dude! I'll be in touch

Fair call. But I haven't exactly finished yet have I

As cool as it looks I haven't done it this way for that reason. i would replace with steal if I had the time or skill, but I don't. That and I've got loads of carbon and epoxi so it's not a huge expense for me either. ive painted it in black epoxi weather seal on the inside to protect the westsystem resin so should last a while. Outer will be filled and sprayed when I get round to respraying the car so no one will even know it's done that way ill give the chicken wire method a google though as that sounds interesting haha

Defiantly haha id love to leave it like this if I could

Been away for work nearly 2 months, fly out again Wednesday. thought I'd make the most of time and fix the last narly bit of rust before it gets worse. my weldings pretty ammo and had some carbon and epoxi sitting around. might order some micro beads to fill the gap between uber and out skin. not sure what I'd need to do to prep for paint on top of that though.. will hit the inside with the black epoxi sealer I used on the inside

No worries. I've got in touch with another bloke for a second option so I'll see what comes of that and if nothing I'll pm you

Sent it jarred at Megasquirt NZ. He successfully loaded up the data but has trigger input and some other issues. Time to fix it will cost money and TBH I'm pretty over it. so if anyone wants to buy it make an offer before I throw it in the bin cheers

Cheers dude. I spoke with jarred for MS NZ and I've ended up sending it to him to run diag and figure out what's going on. appreciated the offer though dude

To add to that ^ when powered up and led no longer comes up. I still have 5V where I should

Re MS is there anyone in Auckland with megasquirt experience I can come bring all my shit to for help? got it built, got it connected to tuner studio so ports setup, db9-USB works, and tuner sees it as an ECU. tried to load up firmware, followed all the steps (jumper boot etc) it went threw all the steps and says it's loaded all the code lines into the pcb. once it's written them says download failed, and response of (boot< response: what) press any button to continue, do that and the window closes. ive now tried again and the ECU isn't powering up. I've got a board built I use for powering up PLC's for work so it's a reliable supply. power it up, LED doesn't light up for two seconds any more, and I can't connect anymore. if there's anyone with a lot of experience that can help please get in touch, I'm not far off throwing it in the bin haha 0212666684

Not sure what bent the rod. Pre ignition and over reving maybe? couple people have said maybe it's hydro locked? it sat for a while and the head gasket was mint, there wasn't any rust or difference in surface, so dont think it was water. someone suggested a cylinder flooded with fuel witch would seem like a reasonable answer?? see how goes, if it runs and lasts a month I'll be pissing my self with laughter. 6months of daily driving, and I'll be speachless and bragging of my hori engine building ways for years to come..

engine front... so the el cheapo 4ageo's bottom engine looked good. full rebuild etc seemed to good to be true, so I pulled the head off to have a look. first glance one of the pistons was far lower (8mm) below deck at TDC. others sitting flush I decided to pull the rod and piston out. turns out it was bent like a banana. however the bearing looked fine, had stated wearing threw the first layer but that could be because rod twisted so rod top end wasn't bending true...? With the bottom end seeming to never be opened aside from gaskets, I decided to take a punt on it and put a spare rod in there and new bearing from some spare pack of king bearings I had sitting there. While I was there I gave the bore a quick resurface with my $30 AliExpress bore honeing tool haha head needed a clean, to remove the blue paint and years of over due oil changes. so I picked up some oven cleaner and hit the wash world on Lincoln rd. once clean, I followed the advice of some old boys, some taking the piss, and some very serious. Going this far and the motor now costing less then $150 I went for it. Sand paper on a sheet of glass... much to my surprise, it worked fucking well. Took it down from 60 grit to 340 grit. ive put my straight edge on it and can't get the feeler gauge under it at all. decided I'll take another punt and run a TRD MLS head gasket haha. ive chucked some ARP head studs in there, and if it doesn't comp test well after a heat cycle I'll pull the head and put a standard copper ring HG in there. im sure it'll run, just no idea for how long haha be a good test of how home job you can go on a cheap motor. https://youtu.be/f5r6FV2D1kw

Brake calipers rebuilt with new pistons and flywheel skimmed and balanced with new clutch. got ADL to do the lot, $240 for the calipers, $150 for flywheel skim and balance... more then I thought, but they have done a bloody good job. Including machine and painting the calipers. rest of it on the actual car as of late it chaseing oil leaks and keeping it running as my daily. It's defiantly a test of dedication to keep it on the road and driven every day. replaced the dizzy Oring a while back. Still leaked. Pulled the fuel pump (3A is mech off the back of the cam) and made a new gasket. its now leaking FAR less, but it's still dropping oil.. so I still have gaskets to make, and holes to gasket goo..

Can't find anything for the ms1, only pages for ms3 on adjusting pots

MS1, v3 board, wasted spark, 36-1 crank. Only used for ign. Ok so I've been told to use the VR circuit for my cherry Hall effect sensor?