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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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1 hour ago, Ghostchips said:

If JB weld or something will hold the dirt out, do it.
I once replaced the top of a model A distributor with a popsical stick with wires shoved through little holes. Based that one on stories on the internet.  There was a video of someone doing it somewhere but i can't find it now
/Ling

 

Macgyver.. 

 

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It still runs sweet even with a smashed rotor and 2 holes in the cap but I think it makes it hard to start, I have some Jb weld stuff but I think it contains alloy, 

 

I am wondering if the Pertonix flamethrower coil is too much fot this shitty repro cap, I need to find a Mallory one 

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6 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

If JB weld or something will hold the dirt out, do it.
I once replaced the top of a model A distributor with a popsical stick with wires shoved through little holes. Based that one on stories on the internet.  There was a video of someone doing it somewhere but i can't find it now
/Ling

The spark is trying to drill a hole to the next terminal 

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I just got my back up cap and gave it a good coating of epoxy around where the rotor points, some of the other junk caps had that treatment all ready, I  hope it did it because the tip of the rotor was 5mm out of wack.

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On 28/02/2020 at 13:53, SOHC said:

I put a duel cone K&N washable pod filter on the Volvo 245 for a temporary air filter as I removed the old one and then crushed it and fuck me it uses no petrol at all anymore, I gave it a spray down with filter oil to, do they filter all right, will it stop the small partials as much as a paper filter? 

 

On 28/02/2020 at 14:26, Nominal said:

No.

 

Hard to believe how much stuff went through the K&N

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if you put a light inside the K&N is has holes witch are around 1mm wide

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LED bulbs, 

Ronnie the Honda Dio has a headlight slightly dimmer than a wet birthday candle. Now it's dark in the mornings, and they're deactivated the street lights through the part of the red zone through which I traverse on my commute to work. I would like to beef up the illumination. Ideally I want enough lumens to down the ghetto bird if I was to spotlight it. But in reality enough light to see the myriad of potholes, and see pedestrians wandering through my path would be ace. 

They appear to use a smallish twin filament bulb. Do any of you experts know is there a straight swap LED replacements? (50cc, so no wof required)

Alternatively, a link to a really grunty light bar would work too.

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There are 6 and 12 volt bulbs listed as 'for scooter' on aliexpress.  The ones that have 1 side for dip & both sides for high beam seem reasonable.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32719482964.html
Or.... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32995409361.html

Might be able to get one sooner from the likes of trademe. I looked but only found stop-tail LED.

A winter or 2 back i put stop-tail LED bulbs into the headlight buckets of the model T.  Worked remarkably well.

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Thanks Rusti.

At those prices, I'd probably run one of those and a light bar. (Just trigger the 

Bar off the high beam) 

I'm blind as fuck In bad light. 

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19 hours ago, tortron said:

i rock this on adv GN

is it running of ac or dc/battery?

 

edit: i see the ad says dc so guessing of battery?

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For some years now there has been a VN Commodore wagon in my neighbour's yard. It hasn't been started for at least two years. Today the owner turned up hoping to get it going. We put a few gallons of fresh petrol in the tank and hooked up a good battery. After attending to a few loose electrical connections it cranked over okay but didn't start. We're assuming it has spark and blaming fuel supply issues. I did suggest whipping the sparkplugs out to check that it actually has spark but I was over-ruled. Might be a job for next time. It's a 5.0 litre V8 with fuel injection and we're all a bit technologicaly challenged when it comes to injected systems / more at home with carburettors. Do any of you have a best guess for where/what to start checking?

Also when I went to remove one of the wheels on it, cos flat tyre from sitting, I found that three out of the four wheels have mismatched nuts. That was news to the owner as well. Just as well he had a multifit wheelbrace.

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Spray some brakeklean or ether down the intake and see if it fires?

 

The in tank pump is probably hosed from sitting in varnish

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I had trouble getting my 'new' VN engine running after installing it.  I think the main issue was injectors that were stuck. On the 3.8 it's possible to remove the raid and injectors as a unit and let them spray into the air. Not sure if this is possible on the V8.

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To start with, disconnect whichever fuel hose attaches to the nipple on the fuel rail which doesnt have the diaphram on it. (Thats the return) 
when the key is switched on, on most efi cars the pump primes for three seconds. Mind your eyes, cos it'll be high pressure. If no gas comes out, locate the fuel pump relay. see if it clicks when the key is switch on. If it does, like Tortose said the pump is probably coozed. (happened to the middy CRX after a 7 year park up) 
If you have gas at the rail, check that the plugs are sparking. If theres gas at the rail and spark, the injectors could be varnished up to shit. Costs about $25ish per injector to get them cleaned and seriveced. 

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On 12/03/2020 at 18:03, RUNAMUCK said:

LED bulbs, 

Ronnie the Honda Dio has a headlight slightly dimmer than a wet birthday candle. Now it's dark in the mornings, and they're deactivated the street lights through the part of the red zone through which I traverse on my commute to work. I would like to beef up the illumination. Ideally I want enough lumens to down the ghetto bird if I was to spotlight it. But in reality enough light to see the myriad of potholes, and see pedestrians wandering through my path would be ace. 

They appear to use a smallish twin filament bulb. Do any of you experts know is there a straight swap LED replacements? (50cc, so no wof required)

Alternatively, a link to a really grunty light bar would work too.

I put LED’s on my aprilia but I had to convert from ac to dc for it to work

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