Yowzer Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Your 5w bulb is about 30ohm and needs just under half an amp to run. Whatever transistor in the ecu possibly had a bit of leakage (or some other source where ideally it shouldn't be coming from) which isn't enough to light the bulb but as the led will glow with a couple of milliamps, the current would still flow through the conventional bulb largely unhindered. The resistor across the led should allow it to effectively flow past the led instead of through it, untill it is supplied the full switched power. At least that's the theory in my mind. There's people here far more knowledgeable on this subject than I so I'll shut up now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Try a 300ohm resistor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Sounds like a good solution, probably going to need more than my basic solder skills to tie into it as the points in the cluster are microscopic. does a measurement of .4 micro amps current in that circuit seem right? Could this be from an earth in an adjacent cable? As the circuit is constant +ve and earth switched? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 3 hours ago, Transom said: Fuel pressure gauge ... Install on high pressure feed line or on return line after regulator ? Or does it make no difference ? Seems te aftermarket fuel pressure regs have them on the reg so that's after injectors ... Any thoughts ? The pressure gauge will be on the injector side of the regulator 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Just stick a bulb in series lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 You can spray a whole can over a radiator and still see copper, I see the ones from the reco shops just have a light dusting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 14 hours ago, chris r said: Just stick a bulb in series lol Yeah nah tried that. i need to put a 20 ohm resistor into the fuel sender and 80 ohm into the temp gauge to get them reading where i want them, so if i can surgery the 300 ohm as suggested in parallel with the led then i will do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I used to chip xboxes and Playstations a while ago and I ground up the tip on a soldering iron to get onto the small spots. You might have to carefully scrape off the lacquer before you can get it to stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Repair sleeves for 12A crank shaft/eccentric shaft - possible to be a thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Can you pop up a photo of the shaft and indicate which surfaces are fucked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Could do, but imagine the rotor journals (rotor bearing opposing surface) severly rusted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 (I'm not a rotary guy) so it's the two offset eccentric sections that are rusty? Iv had a Google image search. I'd say sleeving those would be a nightmare for a few reasons! If it was either of the end journals it would be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Chrome them to fill in the pits, then machine back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Then grind back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Metal spraying, then grind to size could work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Might look into hard chrome 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 I'm pretty sure hard chrome will only follow the shape you have/might cause hydrogen embrittlement. metal spraying is a legit thing. (They build up camshafts with it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Talk to an engine shop and just get a quote. I'd be surprised if it's much cheaper than getting a new shaft. I can't think of a normal shop that would even want to take on the job.. could turn into a bastard very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Steelies Posted June 27, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted June 27, 2017 On 6/26/2017 at 13:30, UTERUS said: Metal spraying, then grind to size could work metal spray and grind like this? ling out 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 On 2017-6-24 at 15:35, Firetruck said: Your 5w bulb is about 30ohm and needs just under half an amp to run. Whatever transistor in the ecu possibly had a bit of leakage (or some other source where ideally it shouldn't be coming from) which isn't enough to light the bulb but as the led will glow with a couple of milliamps, the current would still flow through the conventional bulb largely unhindered. The resistor across the led should allow it to effectively flow past the led instead of through it, untill it is supplied the full switched power. At least that's the theory in my mind. There's people here far more knowledgeable on this subject than I so I'll shut up now. You're probably correct, but you may still need a series R too, because an LED is typically a 1.2V (red) to 4V (white) device. This could be built into the LED enclosure if it's a 12V item So @mjrstar |-------- 2000ohm -------| | --------- LED --------------|----------- 500 ohm ----------- CEL Tweak values for bypass ( less to reduce off glow) and feed (less for more 'on time' brightness) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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