azzurro Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 125 spindles may or may not be 19mm lower than 124/lada ones. I swapped my last spare set to testament/tom and he reckoed it was a myth and didnt drop his 124 at all - they are stronger tho. that bump mount will come off with a spotweld drill, just move it up/cut and shut a bit no one will know after the first mud you drive though. isnt it inside the spring or something crazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Yeh I noticed they are spot welded on, will just play with them to start with. They are above the spring also. I'm pretty sure its not low enough to need meat trimmed off the arms, but will check it all out once I get it into its new shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 If needed i have some lower arms and a swaybar at least from my 2104. I may have the tops and spindles kicking around too. Yours for collection/OS freight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Oh Dude, bit of a cunt that you will have to get cert, but if thats the case, then you should go lower again haha But yeah it will be so sweet and worth it in the end to have this thing legal and low Also, roof rack looks freaken sweeeeeet! Cant wait to see it on there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Yeh, shit got way too complicated/pricey, so its going to have to go back up 20-30mm. Why the fuck I cant buy a car thats easy to lower is beyond me, so much for "cut the springs, shorten the shocks, done!" So unhappy about this tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Not sure if he does certs for stuff like your wanting to do, but the guy in Gisborne is meant to be good. Kevin Johnstone 06 868 6534 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Cheers Mr Raizer, but no normal certifier will cert modified suspension arms, has to be some "higher level" certifier, and they will make me go through that process. I may have to move to lawless Russia, lols. TBH, i'll just cut another set of springs, and lift it back up a bit, will save me a fuck load of time and money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 AS gay as it is, surely this is something to be somewhat expected? Cant be many cars around you can bone on its ass and roll legit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 This is true, whats really gay is the side/bottom/back of the car is still 110mm high, its only the very ends of the suspension arms that drop down to 80ish mm. I blame the italians for the stoopid front suspension design! It did have 230mm ground clearance to start with tho, so its still going to be 4 inches lower that std, puhuhuhuhu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 can you mod the body rather than the arms? chopping big holes in the body seems to be far less of an issue, when it comes to certs. over suspension components. / rust repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 can you mod the body rather than the arms? chopping big holes in the body seems to be far less of an issue, when it comes to certs. over suspension components./ rust repair I thought of this, but the tube I would have to change is the shock and spring mount, so they may count that as a suspension component anyways? Also, it would still need a cert as the front arms are to low, so its $500 vs 20mm higher. I've already started cutting the original springs to lift it back up a bit, wont really notice the extra hight tbh, and if so, too bad, lols. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 happy to pay $500 for 20mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 I have a spare set of 2104 springs if required. free to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 stink aw rear is ok tho? i think the nose is maybe a little low anyways so do that and roll wof - re front arms, is the low point where they bolt to the x-member? 30mm here is pretty much = to 30mm @ wheelarch so it will be sweet i reckon. if you really wana stay low i reckon you should move the wounting points and take the opportunity to fix the handling/known weak spots/rust. your gonna cert it anyway? these are designed to tralalaa over snow and on russian roads with 4 sheep in the back and nonna on the roofies, so all the angles are whack when lowered. have a look for how the lada drift cars are set up maybe, you can even buy full setup kits if you can speak eastern european and want to send your credit card deets to russia! lol I reckon id rather spend the $900 on shiney new things that bolt straight on than paying someone to test repurposed OEM parts on top of a cert cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 happy to pay $500 for 20mm Haha, nah not really, I dont want to spend too much on this thing, seeing as its only worth a grand or so. I have a spare set of 2104 springs if required.free to you Cheers boss, if I manage to cock up the second round of cutting, i'll hit you up! stink awrear is ok tho? i think the nose is maybe a little low anyways so do that and roll wof - re front arms, is the low point where they bolt to the x-member? 30mm here is pretty much = to 30mm @ wheelarch so it will be sweet i reckon. if you really wana stay low i reckon you should move the wounting points and take the opportunity to fix the handling/known weak spots/rust. your gonna cert it anyway? these are designed to tralalaa over snow and on russian roads with 4 sheep in the back and nonna on the roofies, so all the angles are whack when lowered. have a look for how the lada drift cars are set up maybe, you can even buy full setup kits if you can speak eastern european and want to send your credit card deets to russia! lol I reckon id rather spend the $900 on shiney new things that bolt straight on than paying someone to test repurposed OEM parts on top of a cert cost. Yeh, the low point is the rear end of the bottom arm where it connects to the x-member. I cut the original springs tonight, and now have just on 100mm at this point, so should be all good. If i'm lucky I wont have to move the bump stop mounts either. I'm really not worried about handling in this thing, its only going to be my cruiser, so wont be doing anything to correct suspension geometry and what not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 This is pretty much me rite now. SO FUCKING FURIOUS!!!!!!! I ring the only certifier in the area, tell him what I plan to do, he says hes not qualified to cert modified suspension arms, and gives me a number for a guy in Hams who is. I tell him what I need to do, he says I have to get a fancy drawing done of what I plan to do/materials used bla bla bla and send it to some place for a "TAC" evaluation, then they work out if its going to be OK to carry out the work. If they OK it, I can then have the work done, but then have to have it x ray crack tested, and then I can go to the cert guy in Hams and get a cert. Soooo to keep it at the hight it is now, it will cost me $900 in tests and shit. There is another way - you raise the points mounting points on the body, this keeps the arms in a much better place with regards to bumpsteer etc. have read of this it might help you a little - although it's still a bunch of work to sort out, it's not modifying steering components - which is one of the big alarm bells for certifiers as you have found. http://www.turbo124.com/forum/viewtopic ... 855#p65102 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Soooooo hes moving the lower arms mounting point up 19mm, which makes sence, BUT he mentions nothing about remounting the top arm? (unless I missed something, which I think I may have, as moving one arm and not the other seems silly) I would need to move the top arm up to help with my clearence issue? Like I said, not worried about handling at all, so wont be doing anything to correct geometry. I finished cutting the original springs last night, got it sitting nice and flat/level, and it looks ok, its only about 20mm higher all round. BUT, for some reason, the right rear spring needs to be longer than the left rear spring? The first set I cut exactly the same, and it sat low on the RH side. The only thing I can think of thats causing this is that the top spring mount is lower on one side than the other?? Unsure why, but its the only answer? (checked everything else was even) SO I had to cut the LH spring one coil shorter to level it out a bit (I know cars are always lower on the LH side, but this was like 40mm out) Silly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Anyways, as I suck at making up my mind, Duds has done some more shops, rims will be getting painted in a few days, so have to decide asap. So far, light blue is my fave (the interior is all blue, so kinda matches) The bright blue I had settled on was just a bit ott, thought it may make the car look more silly than churilly. I think the light blue looks more class, and less ass. Funks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 light blue looks really good in that pic...I like the brown too though (as you know) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaz Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 I was all about the brown until I saw the pictures. I think I prefer the greyish tone in the first pic now. It's sweet in an understated way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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