For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[cletus]

51 minutes ago, Nominal said:

I think that's the case with DIY, maybe not so much for pieces bought from a supplier?

Correct

Reputable arm manufacturer can be mig

Custom made arm tig and ndt only

Oe arm modified where the weld is critical ie if the weld fails- the arm breaks- tig and ndt

If it's a non critical weld on a factory arm, ie welding on a bag mount or steering stop, or strengthening plates, mig is OK  

[mjrstar]

6 hours ago, zep said:

I'm afraid that I already know the answer to this, but https://fabhouse.com.au/ are now doing lower Gemini control arms and replacement adjustable spring perches for the cross member. What is the possibility of this being certable?

Standard suspension.

The stock bump stop tower would be removed from the xmember and the replacement upper perch welded in.

Maybe instead of a rod end the arms could be made with a weld in cup?

You'd need a shim or eccentric bolt for alignment purposes I guess.

 

https://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C73-441/

[KKtrips]

Custom suspension arms also require TAC approval.

[chris r]

Am I able to replace that lower bumper support section with a bit of box section? Or does it have to be oem? And what's the deal with trimming /making existing holes bigger. And would using intercooler to replace the vertical bonnet catch section be okay 

 

[gibbon]

can someone please spoonfeed me like little baby

Looking at a car. was bought into the country, issued VIN, flagged for rust, first owner then pinched the engine out of it then sold the body. second owner sat on it and now wants to sell it. along comes a sucker:

1. does the original compliance inspection have a deadline? or can I just get them to ring up the VIN and they'll know exactly what to re-check.

2. is there any significance in it having had a VIN issued? does that mean it's at least passed some level of scrutiny?

3. does the original compliance crowd need to do the recheck? guessing it'll be someone in auckland

4. does the car have to be presented complete in order to finish compliance? (ie do I need to find a replacement engine) if so, would the replacement engine having a different serial number cause problems? do they even check?

[Nominal]

4 minutes ago, gibbon said:

can someone please spoonfeed me like little baby

Looking at a car. was bought into the country, issued VIN, flagged for rust, first owner then pinched the engine out of it then sold the body. second owner sat on it and now wants to sell it. along comes a sucker:

1. does the original compliance inspection have a deadline? or can I just get them to ring up the VIN and they'll know exactly what to re-check.

2. is there any significance in it having had a VIN issued? does that mean it's at least passed some level of scrutiny?

3. does the original compliance crowd need to do the recheck? guessing it'll be someone in auckland

4. does the car have to be presented complete in order to finish compliance? (ie do I need to find a replacement engine) if so, would the replacement engine having a different serial number cause problems? do they even check?

My understanding, having bought a car like that (then sold it after a little rust repair and getting a vin assigned)

1. Flagged for rust usually isn't a compliance inspection, just a basic border check. You will need to get the rust repaired / signed off by repair certifier. Make sure you get one sorted out before starting any repairs.

2. I got a vin issued on mine, I guess it proves the title/paperwork is in order for getting it on the road in NZ

3. Repair certifier first then entry certification (compliance check). Unlikely it needs to go back to the same place, even if it actually has been checked previously.

4. Probably needs to be a runner/driver for the entry certification check. Unlikely that a different engine number would be an issue.

One of the headaches is that you need to go through a lot of work before getting to that stage, make sure you have your ducks lined up before spending too much moneys.

[Nominal]

Have a careful read here, particularly the border inspection and entry certification parts.

Vehicle Inspection Portal (nzta.govt.nz)

 

[gibbon]

thanks guys, we are already into second hand news regarding what was actually said and done and by who, so yes I will be proceeding with caution

OK so my recent revelation is that there is a border check, and a compliance certification process, and they aren't one and the same. the current owner says that the car "went through compliance" which I guess is the certification check. presumably it didn't pass otherwise It'd have plates on it and be worth twice as much. anyway I did the sensible thing and asked for a copy of the border check, compliance paperwork and the rust repair cert, which despite this being a deal worth thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars, I am sure will be seen as a totally unreasonable demand and I'll never get a reply

meanwhile he is being offered swapz for everything under the sun 

[kws]

IMO having dealt with trying to import a car that was flagged at the Japanese border as rusty, unless you need to have that one or its some amazing deal where you can afford to jump through many expensive hoops for the repair cert, i'd probably look for another.

Does it have any of the import paperwork? If you don't have the compliance paperwork from the first owner, and none of the import paperwork, i feel like that might become a world of pain come your turn to comply it.

[gibbon]

1 minute ago, kws said:

IMO having dealt with trying to import a car that was flagged at the Japanese border as rusty, unless you need to have that one or its some amazing deal where you can afford to jump through many expensive hoops for the repair cert, i'd probably look for another.

Does it have any of the import paperwork? If you don't have the compliance paperwork from the first owner, and none of the import paperwork, i feel like that might become a world of pain come your turn to comply it.

yup I've asked for the paperwork, no reply yet though

Deep down I think it's a case of "if you can't afford a decent one, you can't afford to make a crap one decent" 

[Bearded Baldy]

You can take that logical and reasonable thought and get out!

That is not how things are done around these parts!

[gibbon]

"if you can't afford a decent one, you can still afford to pay three times as much over eight years to make a crap one marginal"

[Bling]

44 minutes ago, Bearded Baldy said:

You can take that logical and reasonable thought and get out!

That is not how things are done around these parts!

To be fair, many people on here have many projects that will never see the road. So it does have merit. It's cheaper to buy one already done usually too, so i'm with kws. One should not bite off more than one can chew.

[gibbon]

7 minutes ago, Bling said:

To be fair, many people on here have many projects that will never see the road. So it does have merit. It's cheaper to buy one already done usually too, so i'm with kws. One should not bite off more than one can chew.

yeah I'm to-ing and fro-ing about whether to spend the extra on a running legal one but I keep coming back to "but then what would I do with it?" 

buying a project means shopping for car parts on the internet which is 200% hands down my favorite pastime (miles ahead of "working on cars")

[Bearded Baldy]

36 minutes ago, Bling said:

To be fair, many people on here have many projects that will never see the road. So it does have merit. 

Some of mine included. Still doesn't stop the allure of 'what if' lol

[Muncie]

What's the go with narrowing track on an independent rear car? If you've seen my commodore thread I've been mucking around with BMW wheels to get the width I want under the ass. How much hard work would it be to cert rear arms if I were to cut back the mounting flange for the hub then have a new one laser cut and basically remove 30mm track per side to get the tyres tucking back under?

Yes I know it sounds like a lot of work but for me any chance to break out the welder and "meditate" is a good thing 100% reversible unlike pumping the guards etc

[Adoom]

33 minutes ago, Muncie said:

What's the go with narrowing track on an independent rear car? If you've seen my commodore thread I've been mucking around with BMW wheels to get the width I want under the ass. How much hard work would it be to cert rear arms if I were to cut back the mounting flange have a new one laser cut and basically remove 30mm track per side to get the tyres tucking back under?

Yes I know it sounds like a lot of work but for me any chance to break out the welder and "meditate" is a good thing 100% reversible unlike pumping the guards etc

You'd need to go through design approval because changing the lengths of the arms can mess with the geometry. You will need to accurately draw, with measurements, the modified suspension. There is a specific form for custom/modified IRS. It's in the documents section of the LVVTA website.

On my Triumph(they are quite narrow), I narrowed a nissan IRS, so the arms and geometry were original, the inner pickups were just closer together. No design approval required. Your cert man just needs to be happy it's constructed "in a workman like manner". It was still a lot of work/measuring/thinking to get the subframe aligned and make new body mounts. And make new diff mounts.

In both cases you will need custom length drive shafts made.

It'd be WAAAY less fuck around to just use different offset wheels. Possibly cost less than the custom driveshafts alone.

EDIT: Not sure if you mean, "make new arms", or "move existing arms inboard". I had assumed the first one.

[Muncie]

11 hours ago, Adoom said:

You'd need to go through design approval because changing the lengths of the arms can mess with the geometry. You will need to accurately draw, with measurements, the modified suspension. There is a specific form for custom/modified IRS. It's in the documents section of the LVVTA website.

On my Triumph(they are quite narrow), I narrowed a nissan IRS, so the arms and geometry were original, the inner pickups were just closer together. No design approval required. Your cert man just needs to be happy it's constructed "in a workman like manner". It was still a lot of work/measuring/thinking to get the subframe aligned and make new body mounts. And make new diff mounts.

In both cases you will need custom length drive shafts made.

It'd be WAAAY less fuck around to just use different offset wheels. Possibly cost less than the custom driveshafts alone.

EDIT: Not sure if you mean, "make new arms", or "move existing arms inboard". I had assumed the first one.

Same arms no changes other than moving flange hub mounts to inboard 30mm.

Basically mount arm in jig remove 30mm strip and weld a replacement flange on shortened up stuff to suit. I just hate the piss week offset the rear has to use up the space available how I'd like rims are $1900 each. 

 

[HumberSS]

Looking at my Dyna chassis it got early signs of heave. Given how deep I am I'm thinking about separating the double skinned areas, there is a not inconsiderable about of rivets to do so. The double skinned areas runs effectively from gearbox xmember to radiator cross brace and fron shock pickups. I've spoken to a mate who works on trucks all day doing lt400 work, he's just a gopher not qualified in any way. He has assured me that if I separate the skins to clean up/treat/ paint etc that I can reassemble with grade 8.8 bolts. I've tried to find info on this but can't find anything definitive, seems to be common practice though. I would rather do once and do right...

Can anyone confirm this for me? 

[Mof]

The industry is moving to 10.9 bolts now.

We wedge the problem areas open with chisels, knock out the rust, and squash it shut again with hydraulic g clamp

It's not pleasant