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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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8 hours ago, 87creepin said:

Scrolled through silvias on the tard just for fun

https://www.trademe.co.nz/2839141045

Some guy asked "does it have a cert for widebody"

Surely this isn't a thing if the parts are bolt on replacement front guards, glued/clipped on bumper extensions, I.e. no welding

 

If the rear quarters have had the arch cut (which they probably should have to be able to properly fit a widebody) then as I understand it, that needs cert. 

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I’ve got a 69 Datsun 521 Ute with a shit chassis, I’ve found a 73 Datsun 620 chassis that is near perfect. I’ve gone over all the part numbers and measurements on both chassis and the only real difference is the petrol tanks are mounted on different sides (521 on left,620 on right). So if I bolt the cab into the 620 chassis how do I get this on the road? The 521 has dead reg but the 620 has live plates on hold, it’s just a bolt over swap 

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On 17/01/2021 at 11:44, Early jap nuter said:

I’ve got a 69 Datsun 521 Ute with a shit chassis, I’ve found a 73 Datsun 620 chassis that is near perfect. I’ve gone over all the part numbers and measurements on both chassis and the only real difference is the petrol tanks are mounted on different sides (521 on left,620 on right). So if I bolt the cab into the 620 chassis how do I get this on the road? The 521 has dead reg but the 620 has live plates on hold, it’s just a bolt over swap 

You want to find a later model 620. The later ones have ball joints instead of the disgusting king pins. And D21 Navara disc brake hubs and stubs bolt straight on. (Plus you then have access to D21 drop spindles too!) You literally just unbolt the top ball joint, and Robert's your grandmothers son. 

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My certification guy has disappeared from face of planet it seems. I have had inspection done and fixed everything on list and awaiting recheck for 8 weeks (understand holiday period and they are busy people being a small business owner myself) 

I assume recheck with someone else would mean re inspection and the $700 odd fee paying again? 

I don't wish to name as I see no merit in it, I am completely happy with the process other than this hurdle and I would just like my car certified. 

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34 minutes ago, dspec_tt131 said:

My certification guy has disappeared from face of planet it seems. I have had inspection done and fixed everything on list and awaiting recheck for 8 weeks (understand holiday period and they are busy people being a small business owner myself) 

I assume recheck with someone else would mean re inspection and the $700 odd fee paying again? 

I don't wish to name as I see no merit in it, I am completely happy with the process other than this hurdle and I would just like my car certified. 

Yes it will mean starting again unfortunately. PM me please.

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3 hours ago, M.H. said:

Is there any way to avoid having to fit driveshaft hoops on my land rover if I turbo it? The factory turbo diesel engines had the same driveshafts, just really want to avoid drilling holes in a galv chassis

There is an exemption for diesels with turbos fitted if you meet the requirements of the lvvta info sheet 07-2016

From memory can only be exempted if its mechanically injected and uses a OE turbo off a factory turbo version 

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3 minutes ago, cletus said:

There is an exemption for diesels with turbos fitted if you meet the requirements of the lvvta info sheet 07-2016

From memory can only be exempted if its mechanically injected and uses a OE turbo off a factory turbo version 

Mines a little bit different in that its an ex Australian army one in which they were built by land rover Australia with 3.9l isuzu diesels, what kind of proof would be needed to satisfy this part?

 

Quote

In the case of a vehicle which has had a bolt-in OEM (original equipment manufacturer) model variant engine
or transmission conversion, or a bolt-in OEM model variant turbocharger/supercharger addition, a driveshaft safety-loop is not required provided that documented proof is provided by the vehicle manufacturer or
their agent
, verifying that all drive-shaft components are identical between the two vehicles, and that the
drive-shaft remains unmodified.

  

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Number plates have this reflective finish and some sort of hologrammish thing on them, right?

Anyway, mines are all falling apart - about 1/3 of the plate is flaking off and just about to fall off.

Can I just strip and paint it white? (then paint the letters black)

I don't think WOF guys are too fussed about that but police might be different if they spot it after dark and it doesn't show the reflective finish...

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